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Posts posted by wallpaperviking

  1. 18 hours ago, noone said:

    As long as there is SOME light, yes, with an A7s I can see what i would not be able to with just my eye.

    Even a tiny LED on a kitchen appliance can be enough to shoot by.

    Some of the more recent mirrorless FF cameras should let you do similar and maybe even better regards the EVF.

    I do not think there are any cameras BETTER than the A7s at really high ISOs.

    Maybe one of the FF Panasonics would give you almost the same at the highest ISOs and be better at more normal but still high ISOs and give you more pixels to play with.

    I have never had any issue with 12mp on my A7s for photography.

    Only if you think you might need to crop or print really large (and if printing large, you could use upsizing software).

    Thanks for the reply, much appreciated!  When Melbourne gets out of lockdown, I will look at renting a A7S and see how much better the results are... :)


         I have a stills project where I am shooting in extreme low light and I intend to hook the camera up to an external monitor, due to the awkward positioning of it.   Was just wondering what camera you guys would suggest for getting the best image on the rear LCD (which then feeds to the external monitor). 

    I currently have a Fuji GFX 50S and this struggles a little bit for this purpose.  Even when I crank the ISO or the shutter speed to get an image, it is sort of flickery and extremely hard to manual focus.

    I have heard the Sony A7S series lets people see more than they can with the naked eye.  Would this be the way to go? 

    It is only 12 mpx which might be an issue, is there something that gives similar results but in a higher mpx count?

    It is mainly about focusing and viewing, obviously I can use a slower shutter speed when actually capturing the image.

    Thanks so much in advance, look forward to hearing any suggestions.. 

  3. On 9/24/2019 at 6:55 AM, Tito Ferradans said:

    If you have a Tokina 0.4 that should help you, but you'll be coming from infinity to very close focus. It will kill bellows draw, but you'll be doing a lot of leg exercise moving from one place to the other to keep subjects in focus and finding your framing.

    That's beyond my comprehension. I never notice a difference in field of view when using diopters. But, when going up in strength so hardcore like a +10, it's hard to get ANYTHING in focus.

    A single focus solution is likely to work well, better than fixed diopters and bellows. The problem I can imagine is the size of your front element being bigger than the back of a single focus solution. Try SLR Magic's rangefinder, they are dirt cheap on B&H these days.

    Amazing!  Thanks so much for taking the time to help me out!  Much appreciated! :)

  4. On 9/21/2019 at 6:37 AM, Tito Ferradans said:

    I heard "diopters" and was summoned here. ;)

    I personally haven't published much on how diopters work besides what's in my original guide - www.tferradans.com/anamorphic

    But I have a ton of research and drafts expanding on the subject.

    Most vari-str diopters (single focus solutions) act as a wide-angle adapter when close focused (Rectilux is 0.9x for example, I have notes on the others too, but not by memory), and regular diopters alter focal length a tiny little bit (you should disregard it).

    Here's a great article by Jay Holben on diopters - https://ascmag.com/blog/shot-craft/deep-focus-diopters

    and an instagram post by the author of the article, expanding on depth of field and the things it sounds like you're looking for:



    Awesome!  Thanks so much for chiming in!  

    The reason for the query was that I was hoping to attach one to a large format lens for use on a custom camera I am (attempting) to build, in an attempt to reduce bellows draw...




    Do you think this might possibly work on a "fixed" lens, like my Goerz Daor 305mm?


    Also, the reason for the question regarding whether "fixed" diopters affect focal length is in the table listed below...


    To me, if those values are true, then that would affect the focal length enough to change what I am trying to achieve....


    Am hoping that I can attach a "single focus attachment" to the lens and get focus from infinity to 1 metre without having to draw the bellows out too much (and still retain movements).  Possible?


    Thanks again!  






    Screen Shot 2019-09-22 at 3.18.35 PM.png

  5. 2 hours ago, tupp said:

    You are making a large format DOF adapter and using anamorphic optics?


    Our own @Gonzalo Ezcurra made the largest format DOF adapters that I have seen.  I don't think that he ever tried anamorphic optics on them, but you should probably be aware of them, nonetheless.


    He made a 20"x20" version, called the "E-Cyclops."  Then, he made a smaller, 14"x14" version, called "MiniCyclops."


    Here is construction of the E-Cyclops.


    Here are some of the results, evidently from the MiniCyclops.  Unfortunately, he took down all of his amazing videos shot with these devices.


    He also made a motorized focus mechanism and a motorized stand for the cameras.


    Nope, not for use with anamorphics at this stage (although I have thought of it).  My question mainly relates to whether using a variable diopter on my large format lens, will enable me to have the bellows drawn out less for when shooting close up portraits.


    Yes, I saw the E-Cyclops videos before they were taken down.  I have tried a similar method of filming off the GG but in my opinion, Zev Hoover's approach is better, just purely based on the fact that he is able to hand hold it :)


  6. 10 hours ago, Caleb Genheimer said:

    The physics of focus remain true, regardless of format... however, your main concern will be the possibility of introducing vignetting. The variable diopters are only compatible out to certain angle of view, and that doesn’t change per format either. 

    My advice for large format would be the new Rapido FVD-35A. It is optimized for “normal” angle of view 2X anamorphics (aka 50mm on full frame), but can be pushed as wide as 40mm apparently. (That’s a potential 20mm fullframe equivalent lens for anyone doing the anamorphic math). A quick google and table look-up shows that’s in the neighborhood of a 95 degree diagonal angle of view. 

    Fixed diopters will be cheaper, but will limit your lens to close focus. For photography and certain video shots, that might not matter, but for fully racking focus, it won’t work.

    Caleb, thanks so much for the reply, is greatly appreciated!  Was thinking the Rapido FVD-16A as it was more in my price range but the 35A might be out unfortunately... :(

    Will try my Tokina 0.4 diopter, as am largely looking to use it for stills...


    With any of these variable diopters, can you attach a fixed diopter to get even closer?  Any issues doing that?


    Thanks again!

  7. Hi, 

    Maybe not exactly the right forum but am hoping somebody might be able to help me :)

    I am currently building a similar camera to the one Zev Hoover did in this article...  I am mainly looking to use it for stills but similar concept..


    Am having trouble getting the bellows to extend far enough out for C/U portraits, as the lens' light rays end up hitting other parts of the camera and cause vignetting.

    Am wondering if using one of the variable diopters (Hardcore DNA or Rapido) would help with this?  I currently have a Goerz Dagor 305mm f6.8 which projects a massive image circle (covers 11 x 14 inches).  Any idea if it would work on front of my Goerz Dagor and reduce bellows draw?  

    If so, what drawbacks could I expect?  I would be looking to use movements as well (tilt and swing), so not sure if these would be an issue.  

    I also have a Tokina 0.4 Achromat, would this work in helping me to get closer without extending bellows?


    Thanks in advance!

  8. Hi, 
         I was really hoping that somebody can help me out and provide details of an external monitor that can flip the image both vertically and horizontally?  I need to take an image of a projection from an old large format lens which is back to front and upside down...

    Similar to this project mentioned here...


    In it, he mentions the Feelworld FW759 monitor and in the specs they do mention what looks like such a feature ( Image Flip (H, V, H/V) ) but when I rang an Australian reseller, they told me it was unable to do this..


    Also, as I would largely be using it for stills, I would prefer something that enabled me to crop the image to something closer to a 5:4 ratio..  

    My current camera is a Fuji GFX which has a native 4:3 sensor, is there a monitor that enables me to see exactly what would be on the rear LCD of the camera?

    Apologies if any of this is ridiculously basic, is a pretty new area to me.  

    Thanks so much in advance, any help would be greatly appreciated!!


  9. Andrew, 

                     Great article and brings up some of the interesting options the GFX is capable of.  For me personally, just being able to "view" the EVF in my preferred option of 6:7 and 5:4 was enough for the purchase :)  Something i have been wishing that Sony would do for years!  I hate the 3:2 ratio...

    You mention that the Sigma 24-35mm f2 covers but this directly contrasts what Jonas Rask (who you reference at the start of the post) mentions in his article. He states that it has a hard vignette at 24mm. 

    I don’t want to say much about the individual lenses that I tested, only that they all covered the sensor apart from the Sigma 24-35 zoom, that gave hard vignetting at 24mm."

    Have you done any further testing with this lens?  Does it cover at 24mm at infinity or did you just test things close up?

    Would be a great lens to compliment the Fuji 32-64mm if it did actually cover..  

    Thanks in advance, would love to know some more.

  10. As the title suggests, just wondering if anybody has used a Cinelux Projection anamorphic with the original taking lens?  


    I realise that most people simply screw off the anamorphic and use another "taking" lens but would be curious what the original combination would be like?

    You would be limited to shooting wide open right?  Then figure out how to attach it properly?

    Other than that, could it work?  Or am I totally missing something here?


    Thanks in advance!



  11. I am a bit unclear on pricing.. :(

    The 65mm is $5849 in total if you preorder?  Is that right?

    If buying all three primes individually at the preorder price, the total comes to $17,997.

    If buying the 3 prime set, the total is $17,995, so a saving of $2?

    Or am I totally missing something here?  



    Also, with regards to focal lengths, would a normal (non anamorphic) 65mm lens be roughly the equivalent of a 80-85mm on a full frame camera?  Then with anamorphic this changes again by widening 2 x in the horizontal direction?  

    Ouch, sorry, shit description!  If somebody could please help me with that, would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks in advance!


  12. Great work! Really love it!  Was also going to ask whether you were using an external monitor that had anamorphic "desqueeze" but have just seen that the Blackmagic URSA 4.6K offers this...  I assume that this is what you are using?

    Maybe I need to front up to the cost of the Core DNA for use with my Kowa B/H.  I also have a Isco anamorphic attachment, is this similar to the Schneider in "look" that you know of?

  13. Sample image looks very promising indeed...  My only criticism is the hexagonal bokeh that is shown..  If integrating with a dedicated prime, this would need to have as "circular" bokeh as possible..


    Anamorphic loses a lot of its look to me when it becomes hexagonal, which I do not find as appealing..

    Look forward to more updates!

  14. Thanks for the replies back, much appreciated!  


    Don Kotlos, can you please explain what you mean a bit further?   Do you basically mean like the Sony screen protector?  

    I have used this in the past and it has worked for tripod based work but it becomes very hard to see in bright conditions and is not a great way to shoot if needing to stabilize the camera by placing it to your face...

    That is why I was thinking something like the LCDVF viewer or something similar..


    Thanks again!


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