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steeped-prod

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Posts posted by steeped-prod

  1. 7 hours ago, chadandreo said:

    For the highest quality video and color grading when shooting F-Log 10-Bit, is it better to transcode to a specific codec or edit H.265 with proxies? 
    Is there a noticeable difference? 
    What’s the best codec I can transcode to?

    I own a Ninja V, but I only have one and most of my jobs require 2-4 cameras. 

    I am in the same boat Chadandreo. I have 3 Fuji X-T3's, but only 1 ninja v. My Ninja V is on my main rig so I can record the highest quality, but on a wedding day we are shooting multiple cameras and we are just shooting 10 bit 4k 60 the whole day. We make proxies and then edit on those and then flip back to H265 for the export.

    If I am doing a project with less footage, like I am editing a corporate story right now where the interview portion was shot on a ninja v 422 24 10 bit and the B-roll was all internal 4k 60 10 bit. All of this I am editing natively on a timeline with no transcoding. I have to wait for renders but it still plays back pretty smoothly. I am on a 2015 MacBook Pro on the new version of FCPX though...

  2. 13 minutes ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

    What does linear focus motor entail? 

    Smoother focus for auto-focus. In my many experiments it also tends to be less jumpy, hold focus better and transition between objects better and more naturally.

  3. 8 hours ago, androidlad said:

    BREAKING NEWS:

    Fujinon XF 16-80mmF4 R OIS WR with lens firmware 1.01 offers smooth flicker-free zooming in the entire range, making it the most video-friendly lens in the Fujinon line-up.

    It isn't video friendly to me without a Linear Motor. I know manual focus is preferred by many (and yes, I often use manual focus), but I love auto focus when I am running and gunning and especially on a gimbal and nothing can beat the Linear Motor autofocus of the 16-55. Yes, the flicker in the zoom is annoying, but I am never performing an action where I need to zoom while recording and keep the zoom motion in the recording - rather I pick the focal length I want and then record.

    I would still prefer the 16-55.

  4. 8 hours ago, EphraimP said:

    I have the SmallRig handle that mounts to the bottom of the Ronin. It has cutouts, so not a lot of space for something like velcro. I suppose if I really put my mind to it, I could come up with a solution. 

    Speaking of running the camera off of usb power, has anyone had the experience of the battery running down over time, even though it was plugged into a power supply (usb or v-mount) that still had plenty of charge. I had that happen this weekend and the camera wouldn't run anymore. Luckily I had a dummy battery that plugged directly into the DC power of my v-mount battery plate.

    I have noticed the main battery does lose charge slowly. I have never had it go all the way down though. I’ve never had the camera on longer than a couple hours straight though. My assumption is that there is still a trickle effect that pulls some charge from the main battery. If you ever shut off for some ugh between shots it negates the effect as the battery recharges off the power bank. I haven’t tested extensively though with how long it takes though. 

  5. 23 hours ago, EphraimP said:

    I appreciated your warning this weekend. I tested it out and didn't lose any clips, so I used it on my weekend shoot. Definitely didn't lose footage, but it didn't keep my X-T3 powered for the whole shoot so I had to switch to my handheld rig with a v-mount battery. I do have an Anker power bank I've used with it before. Seems kind of clunky to gaff it to the gimbal though.

     

    I have a handle that comes out of the side of the Ronin s like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Acouto-Lightweight-Stabilizer-Extension-Ronin-S/dp/B07JB7H5XY/ref=sr_1_40?keywords=ronin+s+handle&qid=1571270768&sr=8-40

    It gives me a flat surface on top that I just put a piece of velcro tape on and then velcro tape on the battery. I use the smaller anker battery which sits there perfectly and gives me about 4-5 hours. I will go through two obviously on a full day shoot, but never have any issues with it being awkward or falling it off, works really well.

  6. I just velcro a USB C PD battery pack to mine. Then I don’t have to worry about anything and isn’t really much of an inconvenience to me. I would worried on those 10-12 hour filming days that I would draw too much power from my ronin-s anyway. I love that I never have to worry about taking a second battery for my ronin s as long as it is fully charged before we film.

  7. If you guys are shooting 10-bit do you typically use 200? 400 will not be an option for how much footage I have to film, but I was considering 100 to save even more space. I did some quick tests and 100 vs 200 wasn't very noticeably... but I'm guessing it would show up more in the motion... If it is mostly 4k 60 slowed down to 24 footage, what would you guys recommend? 

  8. 21 hours ago, MrSMW said:

    I just couldn't get dual record to work no matter what and that is a deal breaker for me.

    Not to belittle or anything, but are you sure you are tapping the screen in the right spot? I kept tapping in the wrong spot. You tap under where it says Trigger. (None/TimeCode/HDMI should cycle through) It took me a second to figure this out.

    Everything is now working on my Ninja V and X-T3.

  9. 1 hour ago, MrSMW said:

    This cable works: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00C9JRV7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And so does this one: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00YOFRK78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Because I have both and tested them and can get 4K60 to the Ninja.

    I just couldn't get dual record to work no matter what and that is a deal breaker for me.

    Unfortunately, because I had the cable issue myself initially and then damaged the USB port and had to send the camera to Fujifilm UK for repair, the Ninja and SSD are both past the 30 day return period so it's a visit to Mr E. Bay this weekend ☹️

    I'd ideally keep them in case a fix comes up some time, but it's 1k kicking around and devaluing so I won't.

    Yeah, I have only been able to get it to work in 1 setting. I think when I have SD set to film profile and HDMI set to F-Log. But maybe that will change with a different HDMI.

  10. Going back to the original topic - I am having the same issue with my X-T3 and new Ninja V. I can not get it to do 4k 60 no matter which settings I change. The only thing I can possibly attribute it to is that maybe I'm not use the Atmos cable... but I've tried two different HDMI cables. Even if it wasn't that cable, wouldn't it still give me a 4k60 signal and just record blips or stutters? Anyone else have a similar issue that fixed it. This was new out of the box today...

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