j169

Yes, they are the two issues that I have (the pro and the con) but I think most of my glass will be ok. I use a GH5 with a small rig cage and wooden handle, and normally the panasonic 12-35 f2.8, sometimes smaller primes - my largest is a 35mm samyang t1.5.

Great, thanks for the amazingly fast reply I guess it's not ideal (I'd rather have the tripod legs to put it down) but if it does the job on Saturday I can get the proper mount another time. I did want the weebill S but I missed the delivery cut-off time by an hour or so! I think the SC will be good enough for now (my first gimbal except for a DJI Osmo) and I can always change in the future. Thanks again

Hi, I'm looking to get a Ronin SC tomorrow at short notice for a shoot on Saturday. I know I need to buy an adaptor to mount a monitor, but there's no time to get one. I've been told I could use an arm screwed in to the base - does anyone know if that is true? Thanks

No, only output it on the GH5 HDMI signal. It's a Feelworld MA7.

This may be dumb... I have a GH5 (with v-log) and a Feelworld monitor. The monitor has a waveform (thankfully as the GH5 does not output its waveform over HDMI...). If the GH5 doesn't output the custom LUT, then the waveform on the monitor is correct and useful. But if I turn the custom LUT output over HDMI on, so I can see how the final image will look, the waveform now uses the LUT'd (?) image to base the waveform on, and that's no longer correct or useful - as I see it? Am I wrong/right? Is there any good work arounds? Thanks

Thanks, pretty much agree with my views - BUT... the 128GB FreeTail isn't available anymore as far as I can see, and 2 x Sony's are more expensive than the 256GB. And I could use my current Lexar 1000x in the second slot for now (doesn't handle 400mbps though) and get another 256GB in the near future? Then again, I'm probably over worrying about how little 128GB records at 10-bit ALL-I (about 40 mins?) - the only time I do that sort of length in one go is if I'm doing direct to camera stuff and that's not too often and I don't need 10-bit ALL-I for that ;) So I could get one Sony 128GB for now and spend the difference on something else, and then later - when cheaper still - get another card. Thanks

I need some fast cards for 400mbps and the choice is two 128GB cards or one 256GB card (FreeTail Evoke Pro 1000x). Not sure which to go for? The benefit of 256GB is I can always add another in time. But downside is more chance of losing data etc. Any thoughts? Thanks

'sorry, there is no firmware update for the AEF-MFT. we may consider to develop it in the future.' So, anyone with a GH5 who has seen the great reviews of the Commlite on the GH4, save your money. It doesn't work with the GH5.

I finally contacted Commlite via their skype (no reply to my email). I guess because of the time difference it's been a stilted conversation so far But their first reply is "GH5 is not compatible for now" . I've asked them if it will be and whether they can and will be updating the firmware. I'll post more if/when I hear more.

Thanks Fuzzynormal, this is exactly what I'm trying to get to the bottom of. It's easy to jump to the conclusion it's the adaptor (and obviously that was my initial worry - and it may well be) but there's always the possibility it's another issue - a problem with the camera, something wrong with the settings etc. Look forward to hearing how you get along.

Thanks But lots I've read online says it does work with the GH5, including IBIS, and the Canon lenses I'm trying. I did email Commlite but so far no reply.

Thanks, that's a good idea. When I put on the adaptor only, it asks for the focal length. When I tape over the connections on the adaptor and attach it, it also asks for the focal length. It continues to ask for the focal length for all lenses I attach (Helios and the Canon lenses). 5-axis IBIS now comes up for all lenses too. Although obviously I lose the ability to auto-focus. And my Canon 24mm pancake lens with fly-by-wire focus doesn't even focus manually when I turn the focus ring (edited to remove bit about the 85mm lens that is focussing manually - I was thinking it was fly-by-wire, but it's not). Apart from suggesting the adapter is to blame, does this help in anyway? Thanks.

Thanks but I've also read lots of people recommending the Commlite. My problem seems consistent - ie, the lenses that show the 5-axis always show it, and the ones that don't show it never do. So it seems unlikely to be a problem with the connections not being lined up - if it was I'd expect it to work sometimes and not other times. And even though some of the lenses show the 5-axis stabilisation, even when using them the camera doesn't ask for - or let me manually set - the focal length. If I was only using 'modern' lenses then maybe it's the lens passing the data to the camera but one of them is the Helios so presumably there's no way the camera can know what size lens is attached there?!

That's what I'm trying to find out. Hoping some other Commlite users may have some experience. But there's always the possibility 1) there's a fault with the camera, or 2) i'm doing something wrong. But I do understand the most likely issue is the Commlite adaptor. Thanks

Hope someone can offer advice. Sorry to bump but found this video which explains what should happen, but I don't get asked this question about focal length...?!

Ok, a follow on... I've just tried some more lenses and this is the outcome. Canon lenses without IS (85mm, 24mm, 50mm) - red hand symbol Canon 18-55mm kit lens with IS - 5 axis symbol comes on Helios lenses (I tried a couple of 44x lenses) - 5 axis symbol comes on I don't get this at all? Why would the 5 axis symbol come on for the old manual lenses (obviously with no IS) and the lens with in-lens stabilization, but not for the canon lenses without IS ? All connecting to the GH5 with the Commlite AEF-MFT AF - and the Helios lenses also using an electronic M42 to EF adaptor before going in to the Commlite. Help!

Hello I'm using my GH5 with various Canon EF lesns (85mm f/1.8 usm for instance) using a Commlite adaptor. I bought the body only because I couldn't find a kit. I've got a red hand symbol with OFF on the screen. I can't find anything in the manual or online about it. In video mode, in the stabilization settings I can't set focal length, and I can't set the operation mode. I . can only turn e-stablization on or off. I can't see any proof the IBIS is working. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong and what the red off hand means? Thanks

Ah thank you Elgabogomez (and Justin). I'm new to this and still working it out. I have a clamp on the way from the US so once I get that, and I have a permanent 'fixed distance' between the taking lenses and the anamorphic I'll look at re-aligning the lenses again to tighten the focus, and then practice some more to see what I'm doing wrong.

my lens seems to be generally working. It's facing the right way (ie, a 0 shape rather than a... hmm not sure how to type that but you know what I mean, from the front, the oval goes up/down portrait, not left and right landscape). the picture de-squeezes ok (although 60% seems better than 50% even though it's a 2x lens). But... when I blur lights in the background, they go wide, not tall..? any idea why? bit of background on the lens. using an iper minor 35 2x. it was very soft when I got it (it's a very old Spanish cinema lens and the glass is a bit misty), but I cleaned it up fairly well, and last week I set about sharpening it by unscrewing the lens screws, and - whilst at infinity on the taking lens and the anamorphic, I adjusted the glass at the front slightly and got a nice sharp image whilst zooming in to a background and outputting the picture to a 48(?) inch tv. but it has been doing this odd oval thing since the day I picked it up so that hasn't caused it. and since last week I've put it on another, bigger, lens (85mm instead of 50mm) which prevents vignetting, but it meant I've had to use some more step-up rings to hold it in (just) until my clamp arrives. the extra distance between the two lenses seems to have knocked the sharpness out a bit? unless I didn't tighten the screws properly and the front anamorphic lens has moved a bit is there something obvious I am doing wrong or wrong with my lens? thanks

Thanks for the reply. Still can't decide what to get, but that's helpful to know!

Hi Does anyone know if it's possible to attach an anamorphic lens (ie, old projector lens-type), to a Panasonic HC-X1000 or similar? Anyone doing it? The idea of a fixed lens - especially a nice one like the Leica Dicomar is both interesting and worrying ;l) I really would like to use one of my anamorphic lenses with it (I have a couple but the most usable is the Iper Minor 35 2x). The HC-X1000 lens has a 49mm thread, but it's the actual lens I'm not sure will work or not. That's the question, but for background: I'm looking for a new video camera. I can't decide between a DSLR/mirrorless (say a Sony AR7II or AS7II etc ) or a standalone video camera such as a Panasonic HC-X1000. One of the sticking points is I like to idea of being able to change lenses (as I'm used to on my DSLR - which is one of the reasons I like the idea of the Blackmagic cameras with EF mount, but there seem to be quite a few issues with them). I'm at the point of considering a decent DSLR/mirrorless such as an 80D or similar for photos and occasional HD video, and a dedicated video camera for 4K. Thanks J169