Jump to content

James Maynard Gelinas

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About James Maynard Gelinas

James Maynard Gelinas's Achievements

New member

New member (1/5)

0

Reputation

  1. ​OK. I have a cheap Canon FD mount 70-210mm f4. It works in a similar manner to the Nikon 35-70mm f2 you linked to. Now I'm on the same page. Thank you for your help. Given what StudioDC wrote, what's the best zoom type for use on rails with a matte box? Or are zooms such a PITA that sticking with primes remains the best solution?
  2. Wait a minute. Is this what you mean by a push-pull lens? Panasonic Lumix 14-42 kit lens: ​Very helpful, thank you.
  3. ​Error on my part. It happens. Perhaps the Nikon 28-70mm f2.8 is? Regardless, the general question still stands though. Push-pull compared with twist for use with rails rig and matte box. Is there a reason to preference either?
  4. Yeah, a closer look at keh and more ebay listings shows that I was either pricing a unit in crazy good condition or checking a listing posted by a crazy person. This is useful. Thank you! You've also been raving about the Tokina atx pro 28-80 f2.8. But then you warn that they're push-pull (or maybe one of them is) and that folks ought to know this before buying. Not to ask a dumb question but what's wrong with push-pull zoom? Doesn't that mean the lens has a fixed tube length? And wouldn't that make it easier to mount on a rig with matte box? I mean, twist zooms that twist out like push-Popsicles, how do you matte box those things? I've got to be missing something obvious here. ​Yeah, I'm not looking for rare or very expensive lenses here. Just a set of five or six fast basics good enough to shoot low budget fiction. Want to declick if possible and mount gear rings for follow focus. EDIT: Another question: the difference between the Nikon F1.2 / F.14 50mm lenses. For obvious reasons, the F1.2 is more expensive. But is it worth it? I mean, beyond the additional light gathering and slightly wider aperture, is there some major optical reason why I should choose the f1.2 over the f1.4? Or is it only a marginal improvement for a lot more money? Yet another question: When judging lenses for quality, what problems will kill a purchase for you? If there are slight scratches that "do not affect image quality", OK? What amount of "slight mold" if any is acceptable? Or how about "oil in the aperture blades?" A good discussion for this thread might be, "how does one judge used lens quality and what problems should disqualify a lens from purchase?"
  5. Also: Has anyone here used this method to declick Nikon AIS lenses?
  6. It's been a bit since you posted this, but a recent check shows about $600 for one of these. My question, suppose you wanted to buy a set of Nikkor manual primes for a new kit. Say for an a7s, but the gh4 with speed boost adapter also counts. Whatever. Which lenses would you choose and how much would be the top most you'd be willing to pay? Also, suggestions for a fisheye? ​
  7. I could really use some advice here too. I've got a GH2. That means lenses (a mix of panny Lumix and ancient Canon FD mount with converter for a follow focus rig). The GH4 would be a drop in replacement and I'm sure everything would 'just work'. But I have a project I'd like to do that would be shot in a rural desert setting at night. No mains. After watching Philip Bloom's review and footage, it's become apparent I could actually shoot in moonlight and use cellphones as practicals with an a7s. Add some battery powered led lights and the whole thing would be portable. No tungsten. No generator. If I want shapable hard light from a point source, build a flashlight based kit with homemade barn door attachments! You could conceivably clamp a three point lighting set up to the sound boom with gooseneck attachments. I mean, is this really possible?!?!? Am I nuts here? I need a rig and follow focus. Don't want the Sony glass with AF and pull by wire. If I go a7s, this means starting a new kit from scratch. And I am lost here. I want cheap manual lenses and the right converter. Old fast Pentax can be had for a song. And Canon FD mount are still cheap too. Will this thing take manual Nikon? I really don't care as long as I settle on one so I don't have to juggle attachments and invert focus pulls from one brand to the next. Advice? And especially tell me if I'm expecting too much with a7s low light. I mean, if I have to tote an inverter or generator anyway, then the GH4 is probably a better choice.
×
×
  • Create New...