highres

On 4/5/2020 at 9:30 PM, Hans Punk said:

@Rikoshet No, I sold it about 2 years ago.

Hi Hans, did you have any specific design in mind to modify the Kalee to get to 1m close focus? With a new helicoid, or would it require a whole new housing? Would greatly appreciate it as I have just purchased the same large sized Kalee you had! 

It has a 4:3 sensor, would be great to record video open gate when shooting anamorphic. Stills anamorphic open gate would be nice too, of course.

On 1/6/2017 at 2:46 AM, Zak Forsman said:

if the BMPCC speedbooster fits, like it does on the GH4 for those brave enough to try it, that'll get you to a 1.10x crop.

Has anyone tried this yet? BMPCC speedbooster on GH5?

 

On 9/14/2016 at 9:02 PM, Ian Edward Weir said:

Why not get one CORE DNA and use it with all your anamorphic lens. The DNA does not have a rotating front. I think the 3FF-S does? I get sharp images at f1.2 with Core DNA. Iscorama lowest f stop is f2.8 for sharpness I believe. Just my advice.  

Posted this on the anamorphic shooters facebook page as well...Ian, in response to the above (use CDNA with all anamorphic lenses), how about this:

Strange question perhaps but has anyone paired the rectilux core DNA with an Iscorama 54 by any chance? The benefits of shooting at wider apertures and closer focus seem appealing. Only issue I could see is vignetting on wider lenses. Will it make ALL anamorphic lenses usable at f/1.2?  Or only certain ones? I love the look of my Iscorama54 non-MC, wouldn't want to trade it for anything even if it's not the sharpest, just want to be able to open the aperture more. And closer focus throw without diopters

On 9/13/2016 at 10:00 PM, Ian Edward Weir said:

I have used the 77mm to 75mm step down ring and have not noticed any vignetting with the CORE DNA. That step down ring is stupid rare. If I were you, why not just put the front of the anamorphic into the back of the CORE DNA and align / tighten down with hex screws? You will not hit the back of the CORE DNA if you have a 72mm step ring in front. I find it quicker and more stable just loosen and tighten three screws verses the screwing in. Both will work.

 

That is an interesting suggestion, perhaps when aligning the anamorphic adapter after swapping out taking lenses as well. I have the Isco54 on a 3D printed bracket (similar to Tito Ferradans' one which he recently posted in Anamorphic shooters FB page) that goes on 15mm rods. This to speed up taking lens changes on set, and having horizontal alignment more or less "fixed" (although I find i still have to keep checking as it can go off a hair, and get non-leveled flares!). 

But I see no spot to "grip" the rectilux with a similar clamp: one would have to screw it into the lens or an adapter ring that goes on rods for fast and secure adding/removing the rectilux. But if it is screwed in, I'm worried it might loosen when using a follow focus, especially motorised ones like DJI wireless FF.

Hoi Wilco,

Waar in Nederland ben je?

Welke maat zijn de diopters en ND filter? 95mm?

groeten uit Rotterdam!

Martin

​OK, I just ordered a Tokina 0.4. I have the SLR achromats, so I will do a comparison with them as soon as I get it and my isco 54 

Tito, how wide of a taking lens do you think I can mount the isco54 with 77mm diopters? or 72mm for that matter. Will hopefully know in a few days, will keep you posted.

 

What do you guys think of the SLR Magic +0.33 and +1.33? They are 77mm so would help fight vignetting.

I'm also shopping for Iscorama options, looking anywhere from the Schneider and Tiffen 4.5" +0.5 you can get on B&H and ebay

to the tokina +0.4 for longer lenses.

Hi Yannis,

would you mind sharing what kind of adapter you used to mount the baby iscomorphot? I have one but can't find clamps/adapter rings that work for me...

Cheers!

Martin 

hi, I already own the lens, would you consider selling the clamp separately?

Please let me know what price you have in mind if you do!

 

Martin

Thanks a lot for the feedback guys! Will email Bernie for a quote. Cheers!

No it is just a limited range, a bit beyond the focus range on both ends. I think I paid too much for this lens and starting to have regrets. Hoping some kind of magic can be coaxed out of this iscomorphot paired with s16 lenses and the bmpcc! If it can be fixed that is.

yes it does still move on its own, thats exactly it!

the screws are still there...

Great to hear that. Im still awaiting response. Saw the new order page though. Would iscorama optimized be useful for any anamorphic adapter I wonder?

Let me clarify the issue: the front part of the lens consists of a black part that has all of the focal marks, and a zebra patterned part. These two parts are disconnected from each other although they should not be. When focusing there is a grinding noise and the two parts move disconnectedly.

Hi everyone,

 

I just bought this iscomorphot 8 /1.5x that I thought was in good condition, had a lot of interaction with the ebay seller so trusted that all was as promised -'near mint condition' as almost everything on ebay is ;)

 

Then when it arrived, i noticed the front focus ring being loose. Also, there is quite a lot of dust particles inside the lens, which may be limiting even more so. I knew the lens would have it's flaws, but is it worth salvaging/trying to repair? 

 

My hope was that it would be a more useful lens for mounting on s16 and c-mount lenses with my (hopefully soon to arrive) BMC pocket camera, as the elements of those lenses are much smaller. I saw eoshd forum member 'quickhitrecord' and redstan/tony wilson comment that with the right taking lens, it may perform better. 

 

Any comments? Should I try to repair or return this lens?

 

Martin

there's a new update on their facebook page- new order page with Paypal option up tomorrow

https://www.facebook.com/DogSchidtOptiks?ref=stream&hc_location=stream

Thanks for the replies guys, I sent another message to Rich, hope my email back in march still counts towards the waiting list. Can't wait to test with my anamorphic lenses!

hi I have tried a search for 'Rich' under member names, but could not find any specific Rich connected to DSO. A lot of members are named Rich, i clicked on a few that had a lot of posts but none were him.

Could you please PM me his contact or some other way to get into contact? Thanks so much!

Hi I tried their supplied email address from their site, pretty much after their announcement. This was late March. I have emailed them a few weeks ago, and still no answer. Is there anyway I could get in touch with them to secure my order? I really want to buy a set of DSO lenses to shoot a short film with!

Hi Zach, did you ever shoot any video with it? I see one for sale on ebay now, I can only find one video on vimeo but it's not HD. Makes it hard to judge sharpness or overall characteristics.

sorry for posting the same item,  i did not refresh the page before posting :P

how about this one:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190835510591&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123#ht_500wt_1414

 

can't find many details about it. Like what kind of taking lens it would use. Thinking it would be a good option for the pocket cam with c-mount lenses

Thanks for all the input everyone! ok so I did some comparison tests with the Optex and the Kowa 16H, the latter of course looking much sharper, but the Optex easier to use.

The Kowa did not flare that much, in fact. I was trying to get the vignette to happen in run and gun shooting, but it didn't happen even when aiming straight at head lights etc. Will put up a comparison vid in a while once i have some time to edit. But leaning towards keeping the Kowa, as the picture is really pretty :) Now i just need some front filter clamps for both lenses!

Thank you John!

 

just started a new thread on the topic as suggested by Gabor asking for feedback. I though the less distance in the coupling the better in terms of focussing? What would be a good practical way to increase the distance, maybe on an as needs basis? I have the redstan clamp that he recommends for the Kowa 16H. Maybe an extra step ring would help? Right now I use a 52mm to 62mm step up ring.

 

Martin

I own the Kowa 16H, which I have recently received and tested with both a Red Epic, a BMCC and a set of Nikon Ai-S lenses. I found that the amount of barrel reflection on heavy flares caused a very strong yellow vignette. I thought it was my particular Kowa, but then I see the same on several Kowa B&H shots.
I have now seen this on all sorts of light from sun light to LED to sodium vapor to fluorescent, from medium taking lenses to tele end. I also hear it is common on other anamorphics.

 

Is this a known issue, is there anything that can be done about it? Does it happen more to some lenses than others or is it inherent to the design of the anamorphic adapter? It does not seem to happen on an Optex lens I've borrowed.

I've spoken to two lens technicians who say it is either the design or the lack of blacking on the edges of the front element (?)

 

I would want to use my Kowa but find the usefulness limited with these vignettes occurring anytime it flares.

One thing that comes to mind is to try and add a vignette of my own in post to hide the yellow vignette, but may look to obvious. Will need to do some testing with it.

 

I will shoot some examples with my lens today as I don't want to offend anyone else by posting their samples.

 

Would like to get some feedback from people if they have seen this happen and if they have any solutions?

 

One other forum member mentioned he got this with his anamorphic, and he could reduce (but not eliminate) the vignette with a mattebox.