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Posts posted by highres


    On 9/14/2016 at 9:02 PM, Ian Edward Weir said:

    Why not get one CORE DNA and use it with all your anamorphic lens. The DNA does not have a rotating front. I think the 3FF-S does? I get sharp images at f1.2 with Core DNA. Iscorama lowest f stop is f2.8 for sharpness I believe. Just my advice.  

    Posted this on the anamorphic shooters facebook page as well...Ian, in response to the above (use CDNA with all anamorphic lenses), how about this:

    Strange question perhaps but has anyone paired the rectilux core DNA with an Iscorama 54 by any chance? The benefits of shooting at wider apertures and closer focus seem appealing. Only issue I could see is vignetting on wider lenses. Will it make ALL anamorphic lenses usable at f/1.2?  Or only certain ones? I love the look of my Iscorama54 non-MC, wouldn't want to trade it for anything even if it's not the sharpest, just want to be able to open the aperture more. And closer focus throw without diopters :)

    On 9/13/2016 at 10:00 PM, Ian Edward Weir said:

    I have used the 77mm to 75mm step down ring and have not noticed any vignetting with the CORE DNA. That step down ring is stupid rare. If I were you, why not just put the front of the anamorphic into the back of the CORE DNA and align / tighten down with hex screws? You will not hit the back of the CORE DNA if you have a 72mm step ring in front. I find it quicker and more stable just loosen and tighten three screws verses the screwing in. Both will work.


    That is an interesting suggestion, perhaps when aligning the anamorphic adapter after swapping out taking lenses as well. I have the Isco54 on a 3D printed bracket (similar to Tito Ferradans' one which he recently posted in Anamorphic shooters FB page) that goes on 15mm rods. This to speed up taking lens changes on set, and having horizontal alignment more or less "fixed" (although I find i still have to keep checking as it can go off a hair, and get non-leveled flares!). 

    But I see no spot to "grip" the rectilux with a similar clamp: one would have to screw it into the lens or an adapter ring that goes on rods for fast and secure adding/removing the rectilux. But if it is screwed in, I'm worried it might loosen when using a follow focus, especially motorised ones like DJI wireless FF.

  2. highres, all of these are way too expensive. The 4.5" are cool, but it's hard to attach them to anything because they're too big and don't have threads. If you already have a solution for this problem, keep looking for better prices. I got a full set once for $60, used, with a bunch of fog filters and diffusions, with a metal case and all. The key is to look no only for the diopters but also 4.5" filter kits.

    I haven't heard from anyone about the quality of the SLR Magic's achromats. We've been asking this question here for quite a while and no one was able to provide comparisons.

    Tokina is overpriced. I'm not able to say HOW MUCH overpriced, but the "rare" and "holy grail" status definitely won't help lowering the price. That's why I want to have faith in SLR Magic's +0.33. There's also a Minolta version of the Tokina, with a different name, you probably can find it somewhere in this thread.


    ​OK, I just ordered a Tokina 0.4. I have the SLR achromats, so I will do a comparison with them as soon as I get it and my isco 54 :)

    Tito, how wide of a taking lens do you think I can mount the isco54 with 77mm diopters? or 72mm for that matter. Will hopefully know in a few days, will keep you posted.


  3. What do you guys think of the SLR Magic +0.33 and +1.33? They are 77mm so would help fight vignetting.

    I'm also shopping for Iscorama options, looking anywhere from the Schneider and Tiffen 4.5" +0.5 you can get on B&H and ebay


    to the tokina +0.4 for longer lenses.

  4. No it is just a limited range, a bit beyond the focus range on both ends. I think I paid too much for this lens and starting to have regrets. Hoping some kind of magic can be coaxed out of this iscomorphot paired with s16 lenses and the bmpcc! If it can be fixed that is.
  5. Let me clarify the issue: the front part of the lens consists of a black part that has all of the focal marks, and a zebra patterned part. These two parts are disconnected from each other although they should not be. When focusing there is a grinding noise and the two parts move disconnectedly.
  6. Hi everyone,


    I just bought this iscomorphot 8 /1.5x that I thought was in good condition, had a lot of interaction with the ebay seller so trusted that all was as promised -'near mint condition' as almost everything on ebay is ;)


    Then when it arrived, i noticed the front focus ring being loose. Also, there is quite a lot of dust particles inside the lens, which may be limiting even more so. I knew the lens would have it's flaws, but is it worth salvaging/trying to repair? 


    My hope was that it would be a more useful lens for mounting on s16 and c-mount lenses with my (hopefully soon to arrive) BMC pocket camera, as the elements of those lenses are much smaller. I saw eoshd forum member 'quickhitrecord' and redstan/tony wilson comment that with the right taking lens, it may perform better. 


    Any comments? Should I try to repair or return this lens?



  7. hi I have tried a search for 'Rich' under member names, but could not find any specific Rich connected to DSO. A lot of members are named Rich, i clicked on a few that had a lot of posts but none were him.

    Could you please PM me his contact or some other way to get into contact? Thanks so much!

  8. Hi I tried their supplied email address from their site, pretty much after their announcement. This was late March. I have emailed them a few weeks ago, and still no answer. Is there anyway I could get in touch with them to secure my order? I really want to buy a set of DSO lenses to shoot a short film with!

  9. Hi Zach, did you ever shoot any video with it? I see one for sale on ebay now, I can only find one video on vimeo but it's not HD. Makes it hard to judge sharpness or overall characteristics.

  10. Thanks for all the input everyone! ok so I did some comparison tests with the Optex and the Kowa 16H, the latter of course looking much sharper, but the Optex easier to use.

    The Kowa did not flare that much, in fact. I was trying to get the vignette to happen in run and gun shooting, but it didn't happen even when aiming straight at head lights etc. Will put up a comparison vid in a while once i have some time to edit. But leaning towards keeping the Kowa, as the picture is really pretty :) Now i just need some front filter clamps for both lenses!

  11. Thank you John!


    just started a new thread on the topic as suggested by Gabor asking for feedback. I though the less distance in the coupling the better in terms of focussing? What would be a good practical way to increase the distance, maybe on an as needs basis? I have the redstan clamp that he recommends for the Kowa 16H. Maybe an extra step ring would help? Right now I use a 52mm to 62mm step up ring.



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