QuickHitRecord

From doing a little research, I believe that it's similar. Like the Moller 8mm 1.5x (or at least one version of it), the Isco Gottingen Anamorphot that I have appears to be fixed focus. I had high hopes for being able to rack focus with it, but I haven't been able to make it work yet. I have to stop down to about f5.6 and be at least 2 meters away from the subject to get a sharp focus. With a +1 diopter, I am able to get a sharp image wide open at 1 meter (but only at 1 meter) when the taking lens is focused to infinity. I have never actually seen a photo of the Moller 8mm 1.5x. Is this a lens that you have?

I have not been able to find much written about this lens, and I happen to have acquired the very same one in the photographs. It has unique, acrylic painting-like bokeh but I'm trying to figure out if there is a trick to focusing it properly -- it is not as simple as I thought it would be. Could this lens possibly have a fixed focus distance? Does anyone here have one like it? It would be great to compare notes.

Thanks for the link! I was looking on eBay for something like this but could only find one that went to Four Thirds (not Micro), so this may open up some possibilities. I have a feeling that I am going to be swapping in and out extension tubes, mount adapters and step rings quite a bit to see if I can get a usable or good image out of it. I am going to be travelling for work this week, but I am hoping that the Canon reverse adapter ring that I ordered will be here waiting for me when I get back. I'll post tests as soon as I have them.

[quote author=pask74 link=topic=792.msg5744#msg5744 date=1338387275] Actually, I'd like to know if the adapter itself is used to focus (is there any mechanism mounted inside it ?) or if it's "just" a "passive" metal tube. If the latter, it means that the lens' focus mechanism is used instead... which is the tricky part, as far as I understand. [/quote] The Ceicio7 OCT18 adapter (the expensive one) works well. It does not move and is not part of the focusing mechanism. It's like any other adapter you have ever used, except that it has a small metal tab that sticks out. When you attach the Lomo lens, you just make sure to line the adapter's tab up with the notch in the lens housing (as far as I know, they all have them) and once engaged, the tab holds the lens housing in place and stops it from spinning freely. I haven't shot with my Lomo spherical very extensively yet, but during the handful of tests that I have done, focusing has not been an issue at all. It's smooth. I didn't do any elaborate racking shots but if the adapter tab is able to lock properly, I see no reason why it would be any more problematic than, say, a Canon FD.

[quote author=DaveC link=topic=790.msg5763#msg5763 date=1338487966] hmm maybe something like this? [url=http://www.rocksphoto.com/category.php?id=159]http://www.rocksphoto.com/category.php?id=159[/url] [/quote] So... GH2  =>  MFT extension tube  =>  MFT to EF mount adapter  =>  PIXCO Macro Reverse Ring  =>  49mm to 55mm step ring  =>  Redstan clamp  =>  Bell & Howell / Kowa My friend, I think that you may have just cracked the code. Minus the step ring and the PIXCO ring, I have all of these things. I feel an experiment coming on!

I was thinking the same thing, but without paying $300 for the metal tube on eBay, the obstacle for a homemade solution remains being able to find an extension tube that terminates in a filter thread (instead of a camera mount). I've been looking without success, but perhaps I have been missing something.

I agree. However, it may have been a result of improper focusing and/or aperture settings and/or editing. Or it could just be that a diopter is needed. The concept is still interesting to me. I'd really like to try it out but a quick look around the internet has not turned up an adapter or extension tube with filter threading on the front. Know of anything?

Take a look at this eBay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anamorphic-Direct-Adapters-for-M-4-3-or-Sony-Nex-Mounts-3-Sold-/110887283359?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d165aa9f#ht_500wt_1413 Anamorphic projection lenses were designed to throw an image on a wall fifty, one hundred, sometimes a couple hundred feet away. As I understand it, this product supposedly works by increasing the flange distance to decrease the minimum focus distance (much like an extension tube) to make it usable with your camera. But without a taking lens, you only adjust focus with the anamorphic adapter. If it works, it could turn your Kowa lens into an Iscorama killer (though it seems pricey for what is essentially a hollow tube). This got me thinking that perhaps an unwanted lens with the glass removed may be a more cost-effective way to achieve the same result. This way you would still have access to the full range of aperture stops. Of course this is all speculation and I am wondering if anyone else has tried this before.

With five different FD lenses already available to you, you may never NEED to buy another lens for the GH2! I have a couple of them (though not as many as you do) and they work wonderfully for video. Pick up a few adapters from Ciecio7 on eBay and start shooting!

Good luck!

[quote author=DaveC link=topic=778.msg5639#msg5639 date=1337943773]Having some kind of Iscorama lens which could be easily swapped between lenses, is reasonably sharp and allows to focus up to 1m would be an amazing option for low budget films. [/quote] I don't know about Redstan's modded Iscorama's (since there are so few, you can expect to pay a hefty price), but have you considered a Panasonic LA7200 with a diopter? You can focus down to around 1m, and you only focus the taking lens through the anamorphic element. You can use much wider angle lenses than on any other anamorphic adapter that I know of. It's only 1.33x crop (as opposed to Iscorama's 1.5), but it's very functional as long as you can rig a diopter to sit in front of it. They run between about $900 and $1350 on eBay. If you're curious, I shot some test footage with this adapter and a 25mm Voigtlander Nokton that you can view here: https://vimeo.com/42505123

That's very innovative. And I can tell from the video that you work has paid off. But it seems like it takes a lot of innovation to make these anamorphic adapters work to their fullest potential... The LA7200 seemed to be working well with the Nokton 25mm all the way down to f0.95! There was slight vignetting but I am convinced that it was because I didn't have a proper way of attaching the diopter (it was just a Cokin-P filter holder from Cinetactics jammed into the lens hood). I am the process of of trying to rig something a little more elegant based on this idea: https://vimeo.com/28186244 I am crossing my fingers that I'll be able to get both my achromatic doublet AND a fader ND screwed into the front on there without vignetting. That would really be something!

Does anyone have one? I need it for parts. Please PM me. Thanks.

I am now the proud owner of my own square front 50mm f2.5 in OCT18 mount. Turning the focus ring by hand jars the lens slightly (might be better with a proper follow focus) and I can see how this would be less of a problem with the four contact points found on the OCT19 mount. And from what I understand the OCT18 will only mount on mirrorless cameras, which I have. But is this what all of the fuss is about or is there more to it? I'm still hoping that someone out there in anamorphic-land knows the answer.

Thanks. I am very fortunate to have someone in my life who is not self-conscious around cameras! I agree with you about the LA7200. It's the only one of my anamorphic adapters that I would even attempt to take on a professional job (at this point anyway. The ability to rack focus is just huge. AND it's compatible with the Nokton, which in my opinion is a fantastic combination (but only with diopters). Thanks for sharing your work. I am continuously impressed by the footage I have seen coming from the Century. Is there threading on the front? If not, how were you able to attach the diopter?

I have a 50mm squarefront on the way (for real, this time). I'll let you know when it comes in.

Also, it appears that the construction of the lens is different between the OCT 18 and 19 versions. I have heard that the OCT18 breathes heavily during focusing but is does the OCT19 breathe any less?

Thanks for the feedback! The only light source was the sun through the trees. For many shots, it's directly behind her but like you I was surprised by the vertical flaring of the LA7200. I think that when there is enough light hitting the sensor, it floods the image and creates the impression that it is in front of her. It's not easy to control but that is something that I like about these lenses. I was certain that I would have a favorite after doing these tests, but I don't -- they are each so unique.

I finally got to try these out. Just thought I'd share: https://vimeo.com/42505123

SmallHD DP4 does it (so does DP6 but it's more expensive). It has presets for some of the aspect ratios but for 3.55:1 (2x) you can manually skew the image and save it within a preset for quick access. Personally I don't like to skew the image that much because it's hard to check your focus at that size. I usually just use the 2.66:1 (1.5x) preset. The DP4 has something called 'Focus Assist +' that is very similar to peaking, but I think that it's even better. It costs $449 without the EVF. It is one of the most useful pieces of kit that I own.

[quote author=Andrew Reid link=topic=694.msg5515#msg5515 date=1337479218] The Hypergonar is one I've not yet tried - and I might be interested in doing so - however do you need to rack focus with both the prime AND the anamorphic, or just on the anamorphic? [/quote] I am not sure about the 16mm version, but I have the 35mm Hi-Fi 2. For that, you do need to focus both elements. I also have the 8mm "Baby" version (still waiting on mounting hardware to try it out) and I was under the impression that both elements on that had to be focused. However, there does not seem to be a focus ring on it, so perhaps not!

I have a Lomo squarefront in OCT18 mount but someone is telling me that it would be worthwhile to have it switched over to the OCT19 mount. To be honest I don't understand what the advantage of this would be, or if it is something that I should even consider. Can anyone weigh in on this? Here is a photo that Ed Lee took of two similar lenses with different mounts: http://www.flickr.com/photos/edwinylee/5498455467/ Thanks.

Andrew recommends Canon FDs in his Shooter's Guide but I have also seen great results with the old Nikkor AI lenses on Vimeo. I have a Bell & Howell Kowa (similar) and so far the Canon FD 50mm f1.4 has done pretty well for me on my GH2vk. I am not sure how much of a difference it makes but I went for an older chrome-nose version hoping that the earlier technology might not have the same coating density as the later models. It only cost me about $100 used on eBay (and around $50 for the ciecio7 adapter). I haven't had a chance to shoot with it extensively but I have been pleased with the tests. I don't think that the bokeh is perfectly round though.

Does anyone have one? Condition of the item does not matter, I just want to send one to Olex Cameras for more accurate collimation. Please PM me.

I ordered one of these nifty lens supports ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/230749873410?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1233wt_1398 ) to take some of the weight off of my GH2 when I have my Canon FD 50mm and Bell&Howell mounted on it. It works, but between two focusing mechanisms and an aperture ring, the only non-rotating part to brace the support against is the mounting clamp, and that has a screw holding/mounting it to the anamorph so I cannot remove it (otherwise, there will only be two screws holding it in place and it will drop the lens). When I do mount it this way (i.e. lens support only making contact with 1/3 of the lens clamp), I get a lot of drag when focusing my taking lens. I am looking for a better solution. Has anyone come across this issue before?