QuickHitRecord

Thanks for the feedback! The only light source was the sun through the trees. For many shots, it's directly behind her but like you I was surprised by the vertical flaring of the LA7200. I think that when there is enough light hitting the sensor, it floods the image and creates the impression that it is in front of her. It's not easy to control but that is something that I like about these lenses. I was certain that I would have a favorite after doing these tests, but I don't -- they are each so unique.

I finally got to try these out. Just thought I'd share:

https://vimeo.com/42505123

SmallHD DP4 does it (so does DP6 but it's more expensive). It has presets for some of the aspect ratios but for 3.55:1 (2x) you can manually skew the image and save it within a preset for quick access. Personally I don't like to skew the image that much because it's hard to check your focus at that size. I usually just use the 2.66:1 (1.5x) preset.

The DP4 has something called 'Focus Assist +' that is very similar to peaking, but I think that it's even better.

It costs $449 without the EVF. It is one of the most useful pieces of kit that I own.

[quote author=Andrew Reid link=topic=694.msg5515#msg5515 date=1337479218]
The Hypergonar is one I've not yet tried - and I might be interested in doing so - however do you need to rack focus with both the prime AND the anamorphic, or just on the anamorphic?
[/quote]

I am not sure about the 16mm version, but I have the 35mm Hi-Fi 2. For that, you do need to focus both elements. I also have the 8mm "Baby" version (still waiting on mounting hardware to try it out) and I was under the impression that both elements on that had to be focused. However, there does not seem to be a focus ring on it, so perhaps not!

I have a Lomo squarefront in OCT18 mount but someone is telling me that it would be worthwhile to have it switched over to the OCT19 mount. To be honest I don't understand what the advantage of this would be, or if it is something that I should even consider. Can anyone weigh in on this?

Here is a photo that Ed Lee took of two similar lenses with different mounts: http://www.flickr.com/photos/edwinylee/5498455467/

Thanks.

Andrew recommends Canon FDs in his Shooter's Guide but I have also seen great results with the old Nikkor AI lenses on Vimeo.

I have a Bell & Howell Kowa (similar) and so far the Canon FD 50mm f1.4 has done pretty well for me on my GH2vk. I am not sure how much of a difference it makes but I went for an older chrome-nose version hoping that the earlier technology might not have the same coating density as the later models. It only cost me about $100 used on eBay (and around $50 for the ciecio7 adapter). I haven't had a chance to shoot with it extensively but I have been pleased with the tests. I don't think that the bokeh is perfectly round though.

Does anyone have one? Condition of the item does not matter, I just want to send one to Olex Cameras for more accurate collimation.

Please PM me.

I ordered one of these nifty lens supports ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/230749873410?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1233wt_1398 ) to take some of the weight off of my GH2 when I have my Canon FD 50mm and Bell&Howell mounted on it. It works, but between two focusing mechanisms and an aperture ring, the only non-rotating part to brace the support against is the mounting clamp, and that has a screw holding/mounting it to the anamorph so I cannot remove it (otherwise, there will only be two screws holding it in place and it will drop the lens). When I do mount it this way (i.e. lens support only making contact with 1/3 of the lens clamp), I get a lot of drag when focusing my taking lens.

I am looking for a better solution. Has anyone come across this issue before?

https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=91&IID=814

Not that it's in my price range, but does anybody know anything about this in terms of DSLRshooting? My guess is that it is multi-coated and won't flare much.