Ninpo33

I only buy old glass LOL. I look at the price of new lenses and think, "wow that's like 10 - 20 interesting vintage lenses" So you haven't bought from any of the Japanese websites or you have and haven't had good results? Speaking for myself, it's been a game changer and I've ordered 12 items just this week. 10 - 15% OFF coupons and promotions all the time so there's your tariffs leveled up right there. I will say that it depends what you're after and there are some things that are better on eBay vs direct from Japan.. Once you find a groove though, it's great to bounce back and forth between the two cultures and see what's what? Some things are really popular in Japan and fetch premiums while other items that are rare in North America sell for very reasonable prices. But it's nice to have options. And yes I got 3 of those Yashica Scopes 1.5x in mint condition for $80 each. combined the shipping for $20 and it was 2 days door to door. As far as fungus and issues with quality... The Japanese culture generally is very honest and most sellers accurately describe their products, warts and all. Better photos than eBay too and a much more realistic idea of what you're getting. I personally don't mind taking chances on things if the price is right and I know I can fix any smaller issues. But that has really never been an issue for me and any issues are almost always me trying to really get a good deal and gambling on a bad/cheap lens. I will say that the experience has changed for the worse with Trump in office and this most recent tariff grift. Shipping is a bit higher and you don't have as many options but at least delivery is super fast and always well packaged/protected. I'm a fan. Hopefully things normalize soon but it's still a deal. Here's a post I screen captured a while back with more info about the Sirui 1.25x mods

Another bargain right now is the Laowa Nanomorph lenses if you’re OK with APS-C. Used they’re getting really cheap and they’re very tiny. For a native mount solution and ease of use they’re quite acceptable in my opinion. Especially if you consider not needing to mess with all the clamps, adapters, FVD’s etc and being able to go wide.

My “Pocket Anamorphic” setup i’m working on. Waiting for a couple eastern european guys to finish with a small scale front focuser prototype for these little 8mm scopes.

Right now it’s a great time to pick up older adapters vs new modern $$$ anamorphic lenses. The 2x stretch and even 1.5x stretch of the older adapters looks really good to my eyes compared to the modern offerings. The Yen is also fairly weak so buying from Japanese websites takes it to another level. There’s also a nice middle ground and I’ve had a blast choosing from the best of both worlds. My favorites in 2025 1. Most Kowa Prominar 2x and 1.75x versions. $200 now 2. Elmoscope II because they are usually in amazing condition and equal to the Kowa’s but cheaper because they are not as well known. $150 now 3. Smaller 8mm scopes because they are fun and I’m working on a tiny solution with old small Rangefinder glass and Fuji APS-C $100 - $150 now 4. Blazar Nero 1.5x adapter because it’s good and you can play with completely different looks depending on taking lens and sensor size. Looks really good on APS-C and gets very funky on Full frame. $500 or less now on the used market if your patient. 5. Siuri 1.25x adapter mod where you take out the anamorphic and convert it to just a DIY Variable focusing adapter for cheap. That way you can have a budget focusing option for the older adapters at a reasonable cost. $250

Apparently not...!!!

We can dream... Shady website specs leaked on a Chinese social media site. • 4K 240p uncropped • 5.1K 120p open gate, ProRes RAW • V-Log2 • 16+ stops dynamic range • Arri codec • 39 LUTs • ProRes 4444 XQ, 4444, 422 HQ, 422, 422 LT, Proxy • 32-bit float audio • Phase Hybrid AF • 8.5 stops in-body image stabilization • 120fps continuous burst shooting • Dual CFexpress Type B slots • New active cooling system

This right here… Don’t waste your time trying to have a normal debate. Instead of admitting you were right about exposing more lens character at the edges with MF sensors he moves the goal posts and still says you’re wrong because “not ALL FF lenses look good on MF” You obviously never said that or claimed that but it’s a tactic people use to find ways to “correct you” after making a valid point. eatstoomuchjam won’t ever admit the might not know something and always needs to maintain the belief that he’s right. Either self esteem issues or simple EGO. It’s the same tired argument with the “MF Look” or something being “Cinematic”. Terms many of us understand and use but these idiots want to argue on an internet forum about how these aren’t a thing. Yet they’re on a full frame camera talking about how “technically” you could achieve the same look with Super 16. I’ve given up with most of the characters here, big waste of time.

Funny I’m not seeing any of your posts about the wonders of the GH7 but lots here on the Eterna. Funny that you would waste your time here when you could be getting the same EXACT look out of M43 and save a lot of money. After seeing your further posts below and remembering our previous exchanges I’m going to decline your invitation for further discourse. Your ego and style of cherry picking various “truths” makes it an exercise in futility.

Yes I agree. I’m ok with this strange little ZR as a sort of 1st gen beta to roll out the new cross pollination. Smart to make it $2,000 because it’s still very capable but it will allow them to test out all the features on content creators, and then hopefully roll it into pros later.

Just curious, if there is no such thing as a medium format look, then why do a lot of the great celebrated filmmakers choose to shoot on it when going for big tentpole films? The Joker, Dune, Revenant, Dark Knight, etc… Why go through all the trouble of extra weight, crew, expense if there’s nothing to gain over Super 35? Surely they believe there is a benefit. Why do you own a GFX 100ii?

“Useless” is a bit of a strong word LOL. Most real documentaries have an actual sound recordist on set so I see no idea why this wouldn’t make a great B-Cam to a big brother C400 or whatever. If it’s the R5ii sensor in there that’s a pretty sweet look and a very capable camera.

Yes, 100% Tokina made and these lenses predate the Kino and Komine partnerships. Vivitar lenses have a serial number system that will tell you which original manufacturer made the lens normally but these older 60’s preset versions predate that serial number system. I’ve researched them quite a bit over the years however and found information confirming Tokina. My 35mm is doing great and solid, maybe you got one that was not very well taken care of?

They are also really, really cheap. I think I paid $35 for the 135mm and $45 for the 35mm. The 85mm 1.8 is a rare one that is fast for a 60’s era lens and i use it to match with other similar era lens sets that never got a fast 85mm. Got that one for $150 so it was a score. There’s even a super rare 135mm f/1.5 “Vivitar Professional” In the set but pretty soft and overpriced, ($2,500) these days. The 135mm f/3.5 is super tiny. (pic 2)

Not as easy to find, but the Vivitar Preset lenses made by tokina in the 60’s are pretty sweet. Single coated and have circular aperture blades with smooth movement which work out well for filmmaking. As I mentioned before, stoped down to f/3.5 is fine to keep round bokeh on these but you still have f/2.8 as needed. Soft and dreamlike with great out of focus areas. Bodies are small and light and quite well built. Threaded T mount so easily adaptable to M42 or other modern mounts. I have the 28mm 2.5 (pyramid) 35mm 2.8 85mm 1.8 (rare) 135mm 3.5 and 2.8 200mm 3.5

Yeah, i did ok without it on the shoot but was worried the whole time. There’s no off the shelf solution but I took a chance on the smallrig clamp designed for Sony Cameras and got that one the other day. Worked out and it fits perfectly. Blocks the USB-C but i use a dummy battery anyway.

Did you even really read my post? I gave several suggestions and the OP never clarified or said his requirements were set in stone. Soft vs clinical, deep focus and circular bokeh right? There are a few ways to achieve that look. Most vintage lenses are soft compared to modern lenses. Does OP want REALLY soft? Why? Very easy to take a vintage soft lens and add a desired look in post for anything extreme. My vintage Yashicas and old Vivitars all have many bladed apertures and produce round apertures at f/2.8 so I get some low light benefits as I need it while still being vintage soft. But I can live at f/3.5 or f/4 as desired. So no, I wasn’t just waiting to talk, I was offering a perspective and fostering a discussion.

Had a fun time trying out my X-M5 micro cinema rig on a low budget, 3 day music video shoot last week. No overheating or issues of any kind shooting 6.2k prores raw in open gate mode to an Ninja V+. Insane what this little guy can do for an $800 purchase (body).

There are so many options out there with those requirements. Any of the major brands had some real gems depending on the era. Anything 2.8 will really clean up at 3.5 and still be vintage soft vs modern and clinical. 2.8 copies will allow you to not get jammed up in low light situations when you might need it but you can live in deep focus the rest of the time. I have the whole Contax Zeiss set and they’re a perfect blend of vintage and not too sharp. great color. Can be found cheap now. Also highly recommend the Yashica M42 stuff and Konica AR for cheap underrated options.

You first asshole.

One has nothing to do with the other. For all the things you are complaining about, someone else in Africa having a worse time could say YOU are also grossly exaggerating things. everything is subjective.

Imagine of the S1Rii had come out with exactly the same specs that it did but in a proper range finder style body with EVF... People would have flipped out. All of the RS issues and other niggles would have been downplayed because people would say, "well, look it's a proper rangefinder with all the right features but wow, it sure can do some sweet 8k video"

Everyone is talking about how they used the Ronin 4D on the "Adolescence" and how well it did. I bet they only used it in like 4 shots though.

Did someone say wide adapter? I’ve been having fun working on a few adapter solutions with my rangefinder lenses. Will be fun to see what covers the GFX Sensor.

I suppose it depends on a few things, namely how yellow your 57mm has become and yeah, not mixing the older single coated versions or even the second gen MC versions. I honestly haven't had any trouble with mixing all lenses from the newest gen and maybe only need to do a slight adjustment in post for really, really subtle color shifts. Have you thought about the UV light trick with your? I remember there was a cheap IKEA light that people were using for a while with nice results. I should look back into that because I have a few M42 Yashica and Mamiya lenses that could really use it.