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jimcroisdale

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Posts posted by jimcroisdale

  1. Although looking on the internet there are a couple of ways round this for the D5300.

    You can either not click the lens fully into place, which I tried and works, or you can cover the contacts on the back of the lens with tape.

    It does leave you in a situation where the same lenses can't really be used for stills and video, but not the end of the world I guess. It certainly DOES get around the problem of not being able to change aperture in Liveview mode though!

    Give me a 28mm AIS and an HDMI monitor with focus peaking and I'll be golden. Keep the 35mm f1.8 DX G for stills, although having said that, having to come out of live view to change apertures isn't the worst thing in the world, right?

    • Set shutter speed to 50th (as per film) and leave it
    • Set aperture for effect and leave it
    • Balance ISO/ND filter as appropriate to help with the above.

    Is that how it can work?

    Cheers,

    Jim

  2. With either camera, aperture ring lenses are a pretty big deal. Being able to click through apertures in live view is pretty useful. But there's decades of used Nikon glass out there.

    The killer cheapies (people will throw in lots of choices, but there are CHEAP for what you get):

    28mm AIS (not AI, not AF): a classic, low distortion, super sharp. Usually under $300 - the perfect "normal" for that sensor.
    50mm 1.8, any flavor - under $100, slightly tele FOV on the sensor. Sharp. The 1.4 is loved for bokeh, but pricy. Find an old Nikon film body with a 50mm 1.8 and get both for $25 if you shop around, cheapest way to find a 50.
    85mm 1.8 AF or AF-D - usually well under $300 and just. Fucking. Gorgeous. Magic lens on people.
    100mm 2.8 Series E - the only series E prime worth a hoot (other than the 50). Great on faces, usually under $100, about a 150mm FOV on APS-C. (the 105 is legendary and priced accordingly).
    80-200 AF 2.8 push-pull AF zoom - beaters for $300 if you shop around. Mojo for days. Needs a decent lens support, it's huge.
    35-70 AF 2.8 push-pull zoom - a classic lens, great macro 1:1. it can bite your ass with white-out veiling flare that kills focus and depth though. Light sources hitting the full-frame lens aren't visible on the sensor and can flare big time. Needs a really good hood or (better) a matte box with a top flag to "dial in" the flare (sometimes a little is very pretty). Under $300, but take care with this lens. Get some black foamcare or flags for shooting with this one, too.
    Best case sorta cheapie scenario: the big beastly 28-70 2.8. Kinda monstrous lens, but covers a good range of uses, $1k or so used.

    ​I'm finding some of this not to be right as far as I can see. Tried my Tamron 70-300 (basically like a D series Nikon) and when I move the aperture ring away from the smallest end I get an error message.

    If this is right it means I can't use the majority of AF lenses, even in MF mode if I'm wanting to change apertures in live view mode using the aperture ring?

     

    Jim

  3. Hiya all,

    I've done a ton of reading over the last week, and there's a lot to learn. There's also a lot of new stuff on the market since i was last keeping tabs on the photography market, back in 2005 - especially all of the mirrorless stuff. I've looked at the Blackmagic, the Panasonic/Sony stuff and the prices of what I've been looking at have crept up and up... :-)

    Here's the reality: Whatever I buy probably isn't going to get used an awful lot.

    In short, I don't think there's any sense in paying for any more than my original brief:

    1. 1080p videos in 24p

    2. Nikon

    3. Fully manual video controls (which my current D3100 doesn't have)

    From all this reading, it actually seems that the D3200 will do what i want. yes, I know it's not the best quality, but for me, as an occasional hobbyist that does also need a stills camera, I'm thinking this makes a lot of sense for a little money. 

    What do you think? At the end of the day, if it gets a lot of use I can always upgrade later...

    Jim

  4. Ah yes - the fold out screen! i was kinda thinking of buying a 7" monitor anyway though, so assuming the D7100 has an HDMI output (i think it does) this would replace the articulating screen.

    One final question - is it pretty much the consensus that the AF on these cameras (ALL of the DSLRs) is pretty much useless? (Did I read it's because it's contrast and not phase detection?)

    Jim

  5. Mr Carter and mr Saadawi, thankyou so much for your advice. I love the internet!

    It's looking like the D7100 for me I think.

    From what I can see, the only thing that the D5300 has over it is the 60p - something I'm rarely going to need, and can certainly live without.

    I like the fact that the D7100 is the more 'pro' body - bigger with more dials and screw drive AF (and only £100 more used)

    And let me get this straight - with older aperture ring lenses I can actually control the aperture in live view, giving the final piece of the 'fully manual' puzzle?

    Many thanks,

    Jim

     

  6. Hiya Matrox - thanks for commenting!

    I'm not sure I'll need to change any settings apart from focus during the actual shots (most of which are very short apart from full performances which are still only 2-3min and in a controlled environment).

    The D3100 is basically aperture priority and then self adjusts shutter and ISO to suit, which I don't want.

    If I can set the shutter to 50, aperture as per the effect that I want, and then adjust the exposure with ISO and ND filters I'll be golden.

    So really, I'm looking at the most cost effective Nikon that will let me do that.... :-)

    Cheers,

    Jim

  7. And just to point out - the hacks in the videos I posted aren't something you can install. It's just a way of getting round the no manual control issue by pointing the camera at a certain scene and locking the exposure before recomposing. I'm not getting into that... :-)

  8. D800 is lovely, but well outside of my price range! :-)

    Just read an article that says the D7000 does offer fully manual video - body only, used, for £339

    D5200 / D5300 available used for £279 / £320

    Bearing in mind that ANY of these is going to be an improvement over my stills camera (still rockin' a D50!!) and that utmost quality isn't THAT important, which would you go for?

    As long as I can shoot 1080/24, fully manual, I think I'm going to be happy?

     

    Jim

  9. Hiya all,

    Noob here with his first post, so please excuse me if I'm asking something obvious! I've searched the internet and can't find the answer anywhere.

    I'm a musician and sometime photographer that's getting into DSLR video to shoot videos for my band. I picked up a D3100 last year with a mind to getting to grips with video in 2015. We've done one video using a GoPro and i've started climbing the Premiere learning curve (I have a CC account with work - I'm a designer) but now we're planning our second video. I've bought a decent Manfrotto tripod and fluid head as well as spare batts and cards etc, and have been reading a load of tutorials.

    Like many, I'm interested in the 'film look' and the D3100 will shoot 24p at 1080p, which is great. However, as i read more I'm realising that it's actually nigh on impossible (fiddly hacks aside) to have full manual control of the video settings in the D3100.

    So, my question is: If I want to be able to set everything manually and see the result in the live view, what Nikon DSLR do I need to be looking at?

    Regards,

    Jim

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