jeffpb7

I'm using a Jupiter 9, with my Iscorama right now, and it looks great... the Helios 58mm also looks great. Everyone seems to recommend these 2 lenses. I'm going to try a Contax Zeiss 135mm today. 

Thanks for the replies... yep, I'm using a 3 bolt redstan mount. I just ordered a cheap pack of 49mm diopters to stack and screw on after I remove the glass, but the redstan Iscorama mount sounds a lot better... I didn't know they made one. I also need to find some lens support, because the Isorama moves a little when I rack focus with a follow focus, because the Jupiter 9 it's mounted to has a little play in it.  Thank you all for the help, I really appreciate it!

The buttons only work when using the original 50mm lens. With the clamp the buttons don't work, because in order for the buttons to work the clamp needs to be held on by the 49mm threads. I can loosen the Redstan clamp and align it that way, but I'd like to use the buttons, so I need to get some couplers(I think). The only ones I find on ebay are very thin, unless I buy some diopters and break out the glass.

What is the best method for mounting an Iscorama to other lenses? I mounted mine with a redstan mount, but I'm not able to use the knobs to adjust the alignment. Would using step rings solve this? Are there any thick step rings, or would I have to use a bunch of them? Lastly, does anyone know the back anamorphic thread size? Thanks!

Thanks a lot rich, I was hoping it was no big deal... I won't risk fixing it, unless it gets worse. One weird thing about it, is that the close focus is closer to 7.5ft than 6 and infinity seems to be a lot further back than other lenses. At about 7.5 feet it's sharp wide open. I want to try the close focus mod on it pretty soon.

Speaking of MC... I have an Isco Widescreen 2000 MC. Normally the flairs are pretty dim, but when I put a cheap Polaroid MC UV filter on it the other day, the flairs were much brighter as if it wasn't MC'ed. Has anyone noticed that with their MC lenses?

I just got an original Iscorama and it seems to have a little bit of lens separation at the bottom of the front element. It doesn't seem to effect the image, as far as I can tell, but I can see it when I look through the back of the anamorphic part. It's a nice lens in every other aspect and is very sharp. Has anyone else had problems with this, and has it hurt the image? Are there any good tests I can do to check the image quality? Will it get worse, or is there a way to stop it from spreading? I'd like to fix it if it's possible.  

I use a 90 degree 15mm rod clamp with a short 15mm rod to add vertical support to the RedStan clamp. I'm using an ISCO Widescreen 2000, so I'm only focusing the jupiter 9, and the cap on the end of the rod slides very smoothly on the clamp when focusing, taking the weight off of the Jupiter 9. Without the support, the ISCO puts too much stress on the Jupiter and it's harder to focus. It's basically like using one of the cheap lens support options on ebay, but the plastic rod cap slides easier on the clamp when focusing, doesn't scratch the clamp and doesn't get stuck on the clamp screws. Hope this makes sense. When my footage is too shaky, I use the Warp Stabilizer in Premiere and it works pretty well... so does the smooth cam stabilizer in FCP.

I don't really understand how the Cavision clamp will be able to hold the anamorphic adapter in place, since it has to be able to move forward and backwards, when focusing. Unless you're using prime lenses that don't move when focusing, but all of mine do. Let me know if I'm missing something.

total scam... it goes up every other week. I reported it to ebay, but they don't seem to understand that this person is somehow using other peoples accounts to post his Iscorama(if he even has it). I was stupid enough to send him my address so he could send me a fake wire transfer page allegedly from Ebay. When I called Ebay they said they didn't accept wire transfers. So I sent what he sent to me to spoof @ ebay and they said it was a scam. He still has my zip code 95618 on the delivery location on the add. 

Just don't get the Helios 103 53mm 1.8, like I did... it doesn't have a focus ring, and I have no idea what to mount it with if it did. Pretty weird, but at least it was only a $25 lesson.

Thanks again John... would you happen to know the best brand to use? 

@richg101   Did he send you a fake Ebay wire transfer invoice?

Sui,

It looks like the seller has a different ebay user name from the link you posted, but the item description is exactly the same. Also, the Ebay wire transfer email I was sent had to be fake, because it wasn't posted in my ebay messages. Ebay says they don't protect wire transfers either, yet the confirmation email I got was supposedly from ebay buyer protection. 

Also, thanks for clearing up the difference between the Iscorama 42 and the original with M42 mount. I thought it was the 42 because of the M42 mount. 

I wanted to buy this Iscorama 42 on Ebay for $2000, MINT. The buyer wanted me to email him my name, address and ebay user name, so I did. He said he was going to give my info to Ebay, and said I would have to pay through wire transfer, but it was protected by ebay buyers protection. I then received an invoice in my personal email, allegedly from Ebay with the address aw-confirmation@ebuy-protection-ebay.co.uk, but didn't receive a message in my Ebay account. I called Ebay and they said that they don't provide buyers protection for wire transfers, and any message sent to my personal email from them, would also be send to my Ebay messages. So, I didn't buy it(or get scammed). Now the lens has been re-posted on ebay, and has my zip code where the estimated delivery time is? It also says the lens is located in the states, but the seller wanted me to send the money to London. Also, his email has changed... it was lazerfree75@gmail.com, now it's serto1629@gmail.com. Maybe he's legit and I'm just being paranoid, but nothing adds up, so be careful. Jeff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iscorama-Anamorphic-Lens-Pentax-M-42-mount-/261156541136?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item3cce2492d0

Great, thanks again! While I'm at it, the focus rings are stiff, is there anything I can do to make them move more freely? The Sankor I have moves very freely and is pretty easy(compared to the others) to focus quickly, without jiggling the lens. 

Thanks Jon and itimjim, I think I'm going to give it a shot. Hopefully it's a bad combination like John said. but if I have to move to rotate it I should to tiny adjustments, right? How can I make such tiny adjustments? Can you tell me any cheap tools I can pick up that mite be useful? Wound a laser help with alignment? I have screwdrivers and a lens wrench, but that's it. I'm going to get some acetone.

Also, my other lens is sharp, but it needs cleaning on the inner elements. Can I clean it easily without mis-aligning it?

Thanks a lot, you guys are a huge help! 

Thanks John, that's great! Any advise on which way to rotate the glass, or which piece to rotate(front or back)? It's almost sharp right now, but it seems like it's off a hair. At long distances it's sharper. I'd have it fixed by a professional, but I can't seem to find any techs in the Sacramento area. I did find one in LA that I'm going to call today, but I'm afraid of what they mite charge me, so I wanted a plan B to take it apart. I also have another Ekie, that is very sharp, but has fungus on the inside, which I need to get cleaned. Both lenses were allegedly in mint condition. The seller of the one with fungus is going to pay for the cleaning(because Ebay has frozen his payment until resolved), the other said he's going to send me $50(I'm not holding my breath). I also bought a Sankon 16c, that is perfect, so the third time was a charm, but I need to fix the other 2 if I want to sell them for what I paid for them. Thanks again for the info! :)  

Hello, I have recently discovered the beauty of anamorphic lenses, and decided to purchase an Ekie 16c. Unfortunately, it's soft and the seller won't take it back, so I'm going to try to fix it myself. Can someone please explain the steps in taking apart and aligning the lenses? Or maybe there's a tutorial or diagram that I could look at? I watched a video tutorial on how to take one apart, but it's very blurry, and I can't make out all of the parts clearly. I know it's difficult, but if someone that has some experience in the matter can tell me what to avoid or look for when taking it apart, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!

Jeff