Dearborn Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 I was in a budget crunch and went with the Panasonic 12-35 lens cause it was 200 off bundled with the gh4, but I'm shooting at really high isos inside. This leads me to think about returning it for the sigma f1.8 18-35 +xl metabones speedbooster. Problem with that I've considered getting a handled stabilizer which wouldn't support the weight of the sigma. So I'm hesitant to return the lens cause it was 200 off plus I could use it with a stabilizer not to mention it has ois and the sigma doesn't. That makes me think maybe I should get lighting instead. I don't know. Would it be completely redundant to have both lenses for practical use? What would you recommend? What value minded light setups are there that you'd recommend? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesy Jones Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Well, I have the Sigma 18-35 and it's my besty. I can't say enough about this lens, but keep in mind that even though it's F1.8, it's more like a T2.8. Now with the Speedbooster you will get another stop of light, but you're gonna spend another couple/few hundred bucks for that. But I do love the sigma and I think in the long run that lens is more practical as you can use it on more cameras. Can't go wrong with lighting better though. If that's within your budget, you should do that anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Jonesy I think you might have a bad copy if yours is like T2.8. Mine is about T2 and slightly brighter than that at 28mm. Dearborn, if you want to be able to use that stabiliser then I would recommend lighting. In fact i would recommend lighting anyway. I use Aputure Amaran AL-H160. I have four of these little mothers. I use them on lighting tripods and sometimes with reflective umbrellas. Cinegain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dearborn Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 What is T mean? The 12-35 is a f2.8, so is that a higher T value or the same as the sigma with speedbooster?I looked into that video light. It says it's 270lux at 6ft. How many lux would equal a stop in iso? Right now I was just using a house lamp and shooting 10ft away with a tripod using iso3200 and I still ended up increasing the gamma, gain, and offset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamigoreng Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 What is T mean? The 12-35 is a f2.8, so is that a higher T value or the same as the sigma with speedbooster?I looked into that video light. It says it's 270lux at 6ft. How many lux would equal a stop in iso? Right now I was just using a house lamp and shooting 10ft away with a tripod using iso3200 and I still ended up increasing the gamma, gain, and offset.Transmission. Link: http://www.dxomark.com/Reviews/Sigma-18-35mm-F1.8-DC-HSM-A-Canon-mount-lens-review-fixed-focal-length-quality-in-a-zoom/Sigma-18-35mm-DC-HSM-A-Canon-lens-performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 F stop measures the opening of the iris in the lens. But all the different elements of glass and their quality can effect the amount of light that actually hits the sensor. So the T stop tends to be slightly higher in numerical value to the F stop. Most of the time it's about 0.2 higher Dearborn and JazzBox 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamigoreng Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 f-stop is the ratio of the lens's focal length to the diameter of the entrance pupil (focal length/effective aperture) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronChicago Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 I think if you're doing mostly handheld work to stick with the 12-35. If you use a tripod most of the time and/or a shoulder rig then the Sigma will be a good choice, although you won't be able to go as wide on the GH4 with 18mm, even with a speedbooster. bamigoreng 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesy Jones Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Jonesy I think you might have a bad copy if yours is like T2.8. Mine is about T2 and slightly brighter than that at 28mm. I thought so too. So I ordered another copy only to find the same results. It may be slightly better than T2.8, barely, but not by much. Check out my post on this. http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/8536-is-the-sigma-18-35-18-really-18/?page=1I also did more tests but was just too lazy to post the results, but they were all the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dearborn Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 If that's the case there wouldn't be that much of a difference from the 12-35 f2.8, or would there? I'm asking about the sigma f1.8 with the xl speedbooster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesy Jones Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 If that's the case there wouldn't be that much of a difference from the 12-35 f2.8, or would there? I'm asking about the sigma f1.8 with the xl speedbooster?I suspect the 12-35 is not a T2.8. My suspicion (I've tested this a bit too) is that most zooms suffer higher light loss than primes, but I wouldn't know what it's transmission is, as I don't have that lens. However, with the Speedbooster you will DEFINITELY get a stop more light with the Sigma (probably very close to T1.8), but again, that's an additional co$t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dearborn Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 On a low budget would I be crazy to get the sigma f1.8 and xl speed booster and keep the f2.8 zoom to use on a stabilizer later like when the came single 2 or pilotfly h2 comes out? Or should I just shoot 3200 iso. Would it be worth it to have to switch lenses all the time to shoot at 800iso? Keep in mind the tripod I have is cheap and needs replacing plus the need for a video or ball head, I'd have to get another nd and uv filter, have to get editing software cause elements 13 doesn't work. I have no real lighting, but don't necessarily want a bunch of lighting gear. Or I could get a stabilizer now though I find issues with each of them to were I'd want them to be. Do you think the lens would be a better long term investment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesy Jones Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 From the sound of it, I'd say keeping your 12-35 is the better option and invest in lighting.Also of importance, when you use a stabilizer its usually best to stop down a ways for focus reasons, so you're going to lose even more light. Good luck and God bless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonpais Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 I've forgotten: what exactly is it that you are shooting all the time at such high ISOs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dearborn Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Music performance recordings in a studio setup. I'm new to video and just trying to make wise investments as I'm learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonpais Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 In that case, giving advice is easy - go with lighting. Keep your 12-35mm. It's an awesome, crisp, beautiful lens. If you are looking for bokeh, you'll want to invest in longer lenses at some point, if you haven't already done so. I've read that the old Nikkor AIS lenses and a cheap Chinese adapter from eBay are a good place to start. Good, inexpensive stabilizers are becoming more common. Came is supposed to be good, according to Cheesy Cam. I have a Nebula 4000 and haven't even used it yet because it was so difficult to balance. Maybe a tool-less stabilizer is the way to go. BTW, I don't believe what I've read here about the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 + Metabones being only T 1.8. It has got to be very close to T 1.1, because it is very bright. But it is a very heavy, unbalanced setup and will require a rig of some sort. That is not true of the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens - but the Sigma is optically superior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesy Jones Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 BTW, I don't believe what I've read here about the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 + Metabones being only T 1.8. It has got to be very close to T 1.1, because it is very bright.Have you tested this next to more than 1 Prime lens? I have, with 2 different copies of the Sigma 18-35 against 2 different primes. Same results. The Sigma is more like a T2.8 or slightly better at best. With the booster its going to be close to T1.8. Again maybe slightly better. T1.4? Maybe. Definitely not T1.1. I would happily admit that I'm wrong though. I'd love to know that my lens is faster than I think it is. My love for this lens would only increase. If you have run any tests regarding this I'd love to see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Caldwell Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 I think if you're doing mostly handheld work to stick with the 12-35. If you use a tripod most of the time and/or a shoulder rig then the Sigma will be a good choice, although you won't be able to go as wide on the GH4 with 18mm, even with a speedbooster.With a Speed Booster XL you would get 18mm x 0.64 = 11.5mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronChicago Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 With a Speed Booster XL you would get 18mm x 0.64 = 11.5mm.so essentially 11.5-22.5mm with XL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonpais Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 so essentially 11.5-22.5mm with XL?With the Speed Booster XL, the Sigma 18-35mm becomes a 27-52.5mm f/1.1 lens (when shooting 4K).With a Speed Booster XL you would get 18mm x 0.64 = 11.5mm.Brian - Don't you multiply the focal length by 1.5 when using the Speed Booster XL 0.64 when shooting 4K on the GH4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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