mercer Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 12 minutes ago, Mattias Burling said: I always ETTR C-log. Works great for me and makes the workflow fast. Did you use 100% zebras? I haven't used the cam in a few weeks, but when I first bought it, the 100% zebras seemed really difficult to pull back the highlights, so I switched to the 70% zebras and thought that worked fairly well... But I have read that others are using 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kubrickian Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 If you can't pull back the highlights check your LUT. I've noticed some LUTs will blow them out and there's nothing you can do with the curve to bring it back. When I re-grade the shot from scratch in colorista the highlights look great. mercer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Members Mattias Burling Posted October 13, 2016 Super Members Share Posted October 13, 2016 9 minutes ago, mercer said: Did you use 100% zebras? I haven't used the cam in a few weeks, but when I first bought it, the 100% zebras seemed really difficult to pull back the highlights, so I switched to the 70% zebras and thought that worked fairly well... But I have read that others are using 100%. Yes, 100%. Anything with zebra is blown and anything without is good. I dont have any issues recovering highlights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyalinejim Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 I set the zebras to 100. If you see them, it's blown 100%. If you set them to 70 parts of the image might be blown, or might not. If you've exposed without clipping but you still get blown highlights when applying a lut, pull down the highs with curves or levels or something before the lut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kubrickian Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Here's kind of a cheesy campaign vid I just shot on the XC10. hyalinejim, Lintelfilm, Timotheus and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Sewell Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Quote But I have read that others are using 100%. Apparently the flavour of c log in the XC10 puts a dull white at around 65 IRE, so you may find your highlights easier to recover if you set your zebras to 70%, and keep whiteish elements just looking like they're clipping. For myself, I'm currently trying a different, simpler approach, which is to expose so that the exposure meter shows around 1 stop over. I haven't had an opportunity to grade anything shot this way yet, but the ungraded files look to have a good tonal range. I'll post some still grabs once I've had a chance to look more closely and play with them. mercer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 14 minutes ago, Mattias Burling said: Yes, 100%. Anything with zebra is blown and anything without is good. I dont have any issues recovering highlights. Thanks, I'll have to give it another go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyalinejim Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Today I shot a mix of auto exposed clips and manual ETTR. Will be interested to see how they grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 1 hour ago, Kubrickian said: If you can't pull back the highlights check your LUT. I've noticed some LUTs will blow them out and there's nothing you can do with the curve to bring it back. When I re-grade the shot from scratch in colorista the highlights look great. Honestly, part of the issue is probably me... I really need to spend the time and watch some tutorials on correcting and grading. I just get so excited to mess with the clips, I never get around to it... So I am probably going about it all wrong. Thanks for the tips!!! 53 minutes ago, Tim Sewell said: Apparently the flavour of c log in the XC10 puts a dull white at around 65 IRE, so you may find your highlights easier to recover if you set your zebras to 70%, and keep whiteish elements just looking like they're clipping. For myself, I'm currently trying a different, simpler approach, which is to expose so that the exposure meter shows around 1 stop over. I haven't had an opportunity to grade anything shot this way yet, but the ungraded files look to have a good tonal range. I'll post some still grabs once I've had a chance to look more closely and play with them. That's how I used to expose with my old Canon's and then when I moved to Panasonics I went with zebras... But then went back to meter exposure... I would usually underexpose by a stop though... But with c-log I understand you want to expose for your highlights, so I will definitely give this method a try. Thanks. 1 hour ago, hyalinejim said: I set the zebras to 100. If you see them, it's blown 100%. If you set them to 70 parts of the image might be blown, or might not. If you've exposed without clipping but you still get blown highlights when applying a lut, pull down the highs with curves or levels or something before the lut. Interesting, I never thought about that with the 70% zebra setting... Great point!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidzrevil Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 I expose clog for the midtones. I'll shoot with skintone slightly beneath 100 zebras and pull back the image in post. The color fidelity is extremely good when I expose this way...I am currently trying shooting with wide dr though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyalinejim Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 12 minutes ago, kidzrevil said: I expose clog for the midtones. I'll shoot with skintone slightly beneath 100 zebras Did you mean 70 zebra? With skintones just under 100 surely half the world would be blown out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidzrevil Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 4 hours ago, hyalinejim said: Did you mean 70 zebra? With skintones just under 100 surely half the world would be blown out. Hey thats how I been using it. I like the results im getting :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyalinejim Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 A Letter to Canon Hi Canon, Since you've already provided a firmware update for the XC10 I'm assuming you're open to feedback that will seriously improve the camera's image quality and handling. It's a good camera, but it could be great. Here are three major flaws and how to correct them PROBLEM 1: Image softening at high ISOs and ghosting artifacts. When the ISO is increased beyond 3200 resolution drops due to in-camera noise reduction. And at all ISOs, ghosting artifacts are visible when high contrast areas are in motion. In the manual it states that ghosting may become visible when certain Image Stabilisation modes are used. However, my tests show that ghosting artifacts exist equally across all IS modes, and even when IS is switched off entirely. The effect increases with ISO which leads me to believe it is a kind of temporal noise reduction which seriously undermines the image and the camera's ability to be used as a "run and gun" hand-held camera. SOLUTION: Allow the user the option of disabling noise reduction in-camera. Many users who are familiar with post production processes will be comfortable performing their own noise reduction to taste, thus preserving image detail and preventing motion ghosting. PROBLEM 2: Long throw zoom ring. In manual focus mode, the zoom ring usually has too long a throw, particularly at the telephoto end. At the wide end, focus throw is normal. However at longer focal lengths it takes too long to focus. To do a focus pull from 1 meter to infinity takes many rotations of the zoom ring, farther than the human wrist is capable of turning in a single motion. This slows down manual focus to an unusable level, and introduces unnecessary camera shake when shooting handheld. SOLUTION: Change the manual focus speed so that all focal lengths focus as quickly and easily as at the wide setting. Currently there are 3 manual focus speed settings, but the fast setting is still far too slow. PROBLEM 3: Physical exposure controls Full exposure control is accessible from the touch screen menu. However, when shooting handheld it's not convenient to access the touch screen menu while shooting. The joystick control introduces camera shake when pressed and is prone to directional error as it's so small. SOLUTION: Map more of the exposure controls to the dial wheel and buttons. For example: 1. Assign one of buttons 1, 2, or 3 to Exposure Lock 2. Enable Exposure Compensation on the dial wheel 3. Enable one of buttons 1, 2 or 3 to shift the function of the dial wheel in Manual mode, in the same way that aperture is controlled on the EOS Rebel cameras. Implementing these suggestions would seriously improve the image quality and handheld usability of the XC10. Please consider including them in a firmware upgrade. [End of Letter to Canon] That all seems fairly straightforward and reasonable doesn't it? Let them hear your voice: http://global.canon/en/support/index.html XC10 is under Camcorders > Cinema EOS kidzrevil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidzrevil Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Does anyone have a work around for the ghosting / motion artifact yet ? It like the same frame plays twice so far the camera is impressive and i am learning to live with variable apeture but that ghosting effect is annoying. I dont even want to know how that will affect noise reduction software. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 15 minutes ago, kidzrevil said: Does anyone have a work around for the ghosting / motion artifact yet ? It like the same frame plays twice I haven't noticed it. Are there any consistencies as to when you've seen it occur? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidzrevil Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 5 minutes ago, mercer said: I haven't noticed it. Are there any consistencies as to when you've seen it occur? I always catch it at high iso's 3200-4000 or at slow shutter speeds. Combine both and you might as well delete the footage I haven't been home to grade the footage yet but hopefully it holds up well and I can at least mask some of these defects cause I am not trying to get yet another camera for video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 15 minutes ago, kidzrevil said: I always catch it at high iso's 3200-4000 or at slow shutter speeds. Combine both and you might as well delete the footage I haven't been home to grade the footage yet but hopefully it holds up well and I can at least mask some of these defects cause I am not trying to get yet another camera for video Gotcha. Then that's probably why I haven't seen it. I usually keep my ISO at 500 and use the 180 degree shutter. Other than the ghosting, now that you've had the camera for a little while... What are your thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidzrevil Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 @mercer LOVE the ergonomics of that handle! The rotating handle plus the image stabilizing has me getting shots from angles that Were impossible to do with my previous dslr's. The autofocus works really good, the skin tones are great and the clarity is pretty good in great lighting. CLOG is really useful but im testing to see if Wide DR is better. Overall I think the camera can be used as a primary camera for video. I prefer the look of super 16 so it works for me so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 @kidzrevil I would have to agree with that. It has its quirks, but once I figured out it is a hybrid auto/manual camera I started appreciating those little quirks. Do you still have your NX1? kidzrevil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidzrevil Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 @mercer nope! The nx1 is gone! Miss the image quality but the xc10 image stability fixes my #1 problem with my work and the image quality looks real pro too so im good without the nx1. Im considering getting a used fuji xt1 for my stills needs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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