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shota
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Hi everyone,

This is my first post and I apologize in advance for my bad English and the big following text…

 

I am interested in anamorphic lenses for a long time now but the high price of these lenses had always left me in a fantasy.

The incredible works of some masters like Roberto de la Torre, Seb farges, Andrew Reid or Richard Gale really influenced me and wanted so much to go on that way.

For me the result given by these lenses are simply amazing, I could never get back to use standard lenses now ! 

 

I finally got for cheap a Hypergonar STOP 16mm and a Sankor anamorphic looking lens.

I didn't like the Sankor at all but the Hypergonar really surprised me when I tried. 

This lens gives a really good image and can focus to 1m without diopters.

After a long time research on the web I couldn't find any real informations about this lens.

Looks like everyone ignores it and talks more about the baby or the big 35mm ones.
However Redstan mentioned to me when I bought him the clamp that it was one of the best.
 

I would be happy to discuss and share tips and stuffs about this quite amazing lens.

I think it deserves to be highlighted, anyone had experience with it ?

 

Thanks.

S

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Thank you John,

 

Yes I noticed that there were several models but what's the difference between them, is it simply aesthetic or something more ?

 

Also do you know how to clean the lens ?

Mine have really small and unnoticeable dust inside but it appears when I stopped down the primary lens…

 

Thanks !

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Models 2 to 5 are much the same with body changes, model 6 has a body change and a return to the full round front elements but only 2m MFD, model 1 is is the one with most character, has full round front elements with 61 ball bearings in the focus ring and MFD of 1m like models 2 to 5.

 

All are Hypergonar design 3e + 2e same as the big 35mm lenses.

 

Haze and Fungus are the worst enemies of these optics, sometimes uncleanable, dust is no problem.

 

Which model to clean? I need to see which one you have.

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Thank you so much sharing your knowledge !

 

Obviously mine doesn't show that it can focus until 1m but strangely the focus ring keeps going after 3m…

Please find attached a snap of my lens.

 

I think you're the guy who will solve my problem that I was looking for since few month !

post-34915-0-58128900-1403809860_thumb.j

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Thank you so much sharing your knowledge !

 

Obviously mine doesn't show that it can focus until 1m but strangely the focus ring keeps going after 3m…

 

This is a hidden secret, lots of people see them and pass because of that 3m mark :)

 

 

**Mark the positions of everything before you start**

 

So,

set your scope to INF and remove three screws around where the writing BENOIST is

 

next place a lens wrench into the small holes on the front retaining ring and turn ACW and remove the ring

 

next unwind the focus ring back toward the rear, dont remove it completely - stop when you see the helicoid threads

 

The inner tube should be visible, just pull it out and you have access to the inside lens surfaces.

 

Caution the grease is organic and likely to be toxic.

 

Use moistened cotton buds with lighter fluid for cleaning

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Wow you're awesome John, it really helps me a lot !

No worries about shooting daylight now, I'm so happy  :lol:

But I may have broken the mystery of the Hypergonar… sorry about that.
 
Thanks you very much for the instructions.
Nevertheless I'm still a noob and I didn't understand some of the technical words that you mentionned and Google translate doesn't help me well. But I'm pretty handyman and already cleaned some standard primes lenses before so I'm not that much afraid to do it.

 

**Mark the positions of everything before you start**

 

next unwind the focus ring back toward the rear, dont remove it completely - stop when you see the helicoid threads

 

How should I mark the positions ? Is it the Infinity line that I need to mark on the whole body to keep the alignement ?

For the cleaning I still have some 90° alcohol bought in a drug store, should I go to buy a lighter fluid or it can work like that ?

Do I need to remove all the toxic grease and if so with what product can I regrease ?

And I guess I should also use gloves for the operation but how toxic is the grease, do I also need a mask or something ?

 

Sorry for all my dummy questions…

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If you remove side screws and then remove the retaining ring, how do you know the position it was in originally when you re-assemble? - you need to make a mark

 

I use surgical gloves when working on a lens, the grease probably is not nice on a croissant. :)

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Ok so this guy was actually right ?

Mark inside the body ? what is everything for you ?

 

 

Because you told me to not remove completely the focus ring what I understood is that I just need to put back "the inside lens surface" cleaned + "the retaining ring" + 3 screws.

 

I never did this kind of stuff, I'm confused.

Sorry if I'm looking stupid but I'm really afraid to missing out.

I had to wait around 3 years to be able to buy a anamorphic lens…

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Shota, quite honestly I think you should take the work to a good repair shop if you are not confident to do it yourself with a rare vintage lens like this.

 

If you followed the you tube you would be left with a misaligned lens covered in oil.

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Sorry John I'm only asking questions, I affirm nothing on what I'm talking about.

Just asking you to be more concrete if you can because I do not understand English as a native.

I just can't get your sentences and your jokes properly…

My question was simple, where to mark and how ? 

And do I need to remove completely the toxic strange grease ?

It was the only video I found on the net and was not sure about his technique at all.

And yes I am a bit afraid because I can't buy new ones but it's not drama.

Don't have any money to spend on a repair shop neither.

I will not bother you any more, thanks for everything you shared already to me.

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Anamorphic lenses are very sensitive to the alignment of the anamorphic elements. If you are going to disassemble the lens you must find a way to mark the exact orientation of the elements. If you don't once you reassemble them the lens will not focus to a sharp image. Personally I never remove the rear most element, they are normally precisely aligned in rotation and position using a single screw. The front elements generally can only be adjusted in rotation so there is less opportunity to mess up as there is normally less freedom to move. I don't know this lens it may be different. Take your time and be careful to leave markings to allow you to get the lens back how it was. I carefully examine the lens as I go so I don't remove an element and then find I didn't do a good enough job documenting its position and won't be able to get it back how it was. Assuming it is sharp now you can get it back together and keep a sharp image if you are careful.

 

I always use liquid lighter fluid to loosen and clean grease and use white lithium grease to re-lube. These are cheap and easily available where I live, found in hardware stores. I don't know if you have to remove all of the grease but I always try to remove as much as I can and don't worry too much if I cannot get every last bit cleaned up. 

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Welcome to the forum Shota,

 

Yes the HyperG 16mm are very nice lenses. There are six different designs over the years, I have them all.

 

Hey John, how do you like the HyperG Hi Fi 2 versions? Are they really good in comparison to say the Kowa Bell Howell 2x? And what's the minimum focus distance, and size of the lens?

 

I have experience with anamorphic lens, just not the Hypergonar Hi Fi 2, and I've been seeing a few pop up online recently. I have a minty fresh Isco 2x, which is an awesome lens. It's small, compact, lightweight and minimum of 5FT, and with my achromat diopters I can get as close to 1.5FT.

 

I'm looking for another Anamorph lens with more character that won't break the bank, under $500 USD. Since that is what the HyperG Hi Fi 2 are costing online right now.

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If you dont mind the weight and size, the HIFI is amongst the best available. However the MFD is poor at over 5m, but if you buy 2 then you can convert one to close focus and use the other for infinity shots which is a lot cheaper than expensive dioptres   ;)

 

French ebay seems to have the best prices on these, also look for the large Dyaliscopes

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If you dont mind the weight and size, the HIFI is amongst the best available. However the MFD is poor at over 5m, but if you buy 2 then you can convert one to close focus and use the other for infinity shots which is a lot cheaper than expensive dioptres   ;)
 
French ebay seems to have the best prices on these, also look for the large Dyaliscopes


I've grown accustomed to the small compact size to my current anamorph lens. Would be really hard to transition to a bigger one that's twice it's size. Using two, one for close and one for infinity that would be inconvenience for me. It's a tough choice
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