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Fuji X-T3 and X-T4 discussion


Andrew Reid
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4 hours ago, DanielVranic said:

Extremely helpful thank you!

What preamp is that? It is nice and small.

For sure. It's the Beachtec DXA-Micro Pro. It has one XLR input plus two mono and one stereo  3.5 jacks. Powered by a 9 volt battery. It is small. I've wanted to replace it with my Mix Pre-3 II, but the Mix Pre is much bigger and awkward to mount. The sound is pretty decent; I was happy with it before I picked up the Mix Pre.

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EOSHD Pro Color 5 for Sony cameras EOSHD Z LOG for Nikon CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

Thanks for your responses.  After some testing I realized that it is only before hitting record.  After that it goes to the correct ISO.  Really weird, I checked the DR and Flog settings and both were at 100 and off respectively.  Maybe it's a "Live view" setting.  At any rate if it records correctly then I'm confident using it in Auto ISO.

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5 hours ago, CyclingBen said:

Thanks for your responses.  After some testing I realized that it is only before hitting record.  After that it goes to the correct ISO.  Really weird, I checked the DR and Flog settings and both were at 100 and off respectively.  Maybe it's a "Live view" setting.  At any rate if it records correctly then I'm confident using it in Auto ISO.

Exposure compensation  is set to 0?

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A good reason to use electronic shutter is to prolong the life of your mechanical shutter.

Today I saw online there is a class action lawsuit against Sony for a7III camera mechanical shutter failures:
“Numerous users report shutter failures far below 200,000 but between 10,000 and 50,000 for most of the users who experienced this,” the complaint states. “While the a7iii is generally sold with a one-year warranty, shutter failure occurs randomly, often outside of the warranty period.”

Just one 12 minute movie film I digitized with the Fuji X-T3 had about 17,280 jpeg frames shot individually, motorized at one per second (12  X 60 X 24fps).  

Having the electronic shutter is a life saver for this, and for time-lapse & stop-motion.  (Mac plug: FCPX with 8GB memory had no problem loading and processing 17 thousand stills, rendered to 24fps video.)

Having worn out the mechanical shutter in a previous DSLR on time-lapse, I now use electronic shutter for just about everything, except electronic flash.

From the X-T3 manual:

The following restrictions apply when the electronic shutter is used:
• Sensitivity is restricted to values of ISO 12800–160

• Long exposure noise reduction has no effect

• The flash can not be used

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, no problem matching the two. Same sensor. It's more about the potential difference in color rendering if you are using third party lenses on one camera and native Fuji on the other. It's still not a huge problem to match them as long as you shoot a color chart to help you. 

I got a T4 to go with my T3. I'm glad I did. The IBIS isn't perfect, but if you learn how to use it properly, it does help. That's really the biggest difference besides battery life and the small size difference, on paper, since they upgraded the T3's autofocus via firmware. I've not done a side-by-side comparison to see if there are any differences. 

The extended battery life can be clutch, too. 

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Hi guys , has anybody seen any tangible benefit between the internal 10 bit 4:2:0 recording in a X-T3  and writing to a ninja v at 10 bit 4:2:2 . Apart from prores being easier to edit which I do not mind, is there a qualitative difference in recording to a ninja in real world applications?

If someone that actually uses the combination  has experience on the matter , I would be very happy to hear from him. I do not care for you tubers and their findings 🙂

 

Thank you

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5 hours ago, josdr said:

Hi guys , has anybody seen any tangible benefit between the internal 10 bit 4:2:0 recording in a X-T3  and writing to a ninja v at 10 bit 4:2:2 . Apart from prores being easier to edit which I do not mind, is there a qualitative difference in recording to a ninja in real world applications?

If someone that actually uses the combination  has experience on the matter , I would be very happy to hear from him. I do not care for you tubers and their findings 🙂

 

Thank you

I use Ninjas with my T3 and T4 all the time for paid work for small nonprofits and businesses. Besides the ease of editing, which you've mentioned, it seems like my Prores files tend to have a bit more latitude for color correction. I haven't done side by side test, so could just be a perception based on my expectations of a 422 file's color depth over 420. 

Using a Ninja also means I can record two high quality files for each take, so I have a backup in case something goes wrong. Hard drives for the Ninja are way cheaper per Gig of fast storage than cards. I run a 1TB drive with each Ninja and can edit straight on the drive if I don't have space on my main editing drives on the workstation. Western Digital 1TB WD Blue drives are dirt cheap at about $100 a pop. 

There are also tangible benefits to using a bright, high quality 5-inch monitor with all the exposure tools and ability to de-squeeze anamorphic, using different framing guides, etc. You can use something like a SmallHD or an Atomos Shinobi, but I figure if you're already buying an on-camera monitor, it makes sense to go with one that records too.

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9 hours ago, EphraimP said:

 

There are also tangible benefits to using a bright, high quality 5-inch monitor with all the exposure tools and ability to de-squeeze anamorphic, using different framing guides, etc. You can use something like a SmallHD or an Atomos Shinobi, but I figure if you're already buying an on-camera monitor, it makes sense to go with one that records too.

Thank you for your answer. I do have a Shinobi and I was wondering whether the 4:2:2 recording of the ninja V would give me something more until the X-H2 hopefully comes out :). You are of course correct in all counts, especially about having a proper backup which is worrying sometimes. Quality wise I do not seem to get a straight answer and it is a testament to the integrity of your answer that you cannot possibly say a resounding yes or no to my question. Thank you for your reply.

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On 4/14/2021 at 3:07 PM, EphraimP said:

it seems like my Prores files tend to have a bit more latitude for color correction. I haven't done side by side test, so could just be a perception based on my expectations of a 422 file's color depth over 420. 

 

This is also my experience with my limited use of F-LOG and my Atomos Ninja Inferno. The Prores files I got from the last time I used F-LOG (I'm impatient, so I don't use LOG often) worked instantly with the LUTs I had handy, including the official Fujifilm Eterna LUT and Colorizer.net's Fuji-based LUTs. When I have previously used the in-camera files, the official LUT was a mess (that is, it took a lot of work to get the exposure and color to look even remotely "right").

And on the Ninja Inferno, I don't think I was even using Prores 422 -might have been LT (!).

JP

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