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Tilt-Shift Dronelapse - Trying something different


OliKMIA
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58 minutes ago, EthanAlexander said:

Very cool thanks for sharing! How'd you mod the gopro lens?

That shot at 2:02 is the bees f*cking KNEES my man

Thanks. I broke a GoPro lens and mount doing FPV racing (Dquad obession). I ordered a spare lens with longer focal and no distortion. I plugged the gopro video out cable to a computer monitor and played with the lens position to adjust the "blur". Then I secured the position of the lens with a tad of hot glue.

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On ‎8‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 10:46 PM, OliKMIA said:

Thanks guys. Cheers

Hi Oli, I really like your hyperlapses, I'm not a fan of the t/s effect so I would have preferred without it like the others in your channel but it is pure personal preference and it takes nothing away of the great job you did. 

I also read your article on fstopper and it is great with many insides.

I have experimented a bit with my P4p for drone lapse and I'm not yet sure what is the best approach.
The p4p can do 1 jpg every 2 seconds so with ND you can have between 1/2 to 1 second exposure and it gives really the sense of speed but is a pita to get a stable footage even after post stabilization and you need to fly super slow so it takes time and multiple takes as you mention in your article. Alternatively you can take a video and speed it up with the advantage that is more stable, you can decide later on the speed and do speed ramping effect and it takes less time. I did play around adding motion blur with Resolve Studio and you get a good effect but clearly not the same as a true hyperlapse. 

Best would be that the p4p could do a frame every 0.5 second at least in jpg or having vfr from 1 to 24 in video mode.

Using litchi for mission planning I'm always scared about the altitude because I live in the mountains and I don't trust too much how you set the altitude. At sea altitude is easier:-)

What is you opinion?

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Hey. Yes many people told me they didn't like the blur. I totally understand but my point was to try something different. I always like to test new stuff and this video was a kind of challenge for me. I'm also working on a regular dronelapse.

Video over JPEG and DNG: video will be easier to stabilize but you are loosing resolution over still image. And of course much better color grading with DNG but DNG requires longer interval compared to JPEG. So it's a trade of.

For stabilization actually having motion (traveling from A to B) is much easier to stabilize than letting the drone stay in place. Also I noticed that being above the subject (eg. building) gives better result and easier stabilization instead of flying low (it has something to do with perspective and parallax).  Eventually you will have to try the frame by frame tracker stab method. It's a pain but work well.

For the mountain, the drone computes the altitude based on GPS coordinates during take off. So your take off point will be the 0 feet mark. Just make sure that there no higher obstacle your trajectory. The best thing to do it to fly from or above the highest obstacle in the area. Also, make sure to set a correct RTH altitude.

In the end hyperlapse is a game of frustration, you will fail a lot but that's part of the process.

 

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