"Spider Steadicam" or something else?

[Matt Kieley]

So I've had a Glidecam for years, and I never use it because I loathe setting it up--it's very tedious. I want to get a non-motorized gimbal (really can't afford a motorized gimbal). I was thinking of getting a Merlin, since they can be had used for under $150, but then I stumbled on this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Handheld-Stabilizer-Video-Spider-Steadicam-Steady-Rig-for-DSLR-Camera-Camcorder-/141771622439?hash=item21023f4827:g:ryUAAOSwa81XSWwT

Looks exactly like this:

I really like the two-handle design (my Glideam is a bit of strain) and it seems really quick and simple to set up. Has anyone used a "Steadicam" like this? Is it junk? Is there something else better for under $150? 

[Davey]

Will check it out later but counsel you to check every review going for the Merlin - some right horror stories out there and I have never seen any seller with any more than three star averages. I got great results using a Hague MMC for years, able to balance it in seconds and practically dance with it.

The Merlin was just a cosmetically superior steadicam but without the ease of balance and very few good demos on YouTube - always swinging off balance, lurching, bobbing.

[Brother]

When even the manufacturers video is filled with post stabilization artifacts i get a bit suspicious about it's performance. I wouldn't get the spider rig.

[Gregormannschaft]

I bought a cheaper knock-off Gildecam last week...my word, IMPOSSIBLE to set up properly. I spent 2 hours at the weekend trying to get it stable and eventually had to give up, go to sleep and simply not use it on a shoot this week. Is there a trick to these things? Is it simply a case of practice makes perfect? I got it relatively stable, but it would always spin to the right slightly.

[Grimor]

For Glidecam only practice is needed.

A lot of practice, and nothing more.

For perfect balance you need a stand or anything that keep it in place by its handle. Then put a quick plate between camera and glidecam.

When it's perfectly balanced put marks on quick plate so whenever you put the camera on glidecam, you can repeat exacly the same mounting position.

Thats the way you can set it up in 5 minutes in every location.

Another important thing is the way you handle it.

You have to use booth hands. The main one in the handle and the other hand with just 2 fingers in central bar to avoid the spinning and making little corrections if needed.

[Gregormannschaft]

2 minutes ago, Grimor said:

For Glidecam only practice is needed.

A lot of practice, and nothing more.

For perfect balance you need a stand or anything that keep it in place by its handle. Then put a quick plate between camera and glidecam.

When it's perfectly balanced put marks on quick plate so whenever you put the camera on glidecam, you can repeat exacly the same mounting position.

Thats the way you can set it up in 5 minutes in every location.

Another important thing is the way you handle it.

You have to use booth hands. The main one in the handle and the other hand with just 2 fingers in central bar to avoid the spinning and making little corrections if needed.

Ok, that's good to know. I've never used one of these before so a lot of it was hit and miss. For example, to extend the bar lower or to make the whole thing shorter? I had/have no clue what extending it might do. Often it would make it more unstable. And, put the weights to the sides of the camera or front and back? Weights close to the pole, or far away? There are so many variables it kind of drove me crazy.

[Grimor]

Pole heigh and weight are used for balancing.

But if you need a special dimension of the pole you have to correct the weight.

Longer pole = less weight need. 

Usually heavier setup and longer poles are more stable.

[bamigoreng]

44 minutes ago, Gregormannschaft said:

Ok, that's good to know. I've never used one of these before so a lot of it was hit and miss. For example, to extend the bar lower or to make the whole thing shorter? I had/have no clue what extending it might do. Often it would make it more unstable. And, put the weights to the sides of the camera or front and back? Weights close to the pole, or far away? There are so many variables it kind of drove me crazy.

Glidecam Tutorials

 

 

[Tim Sewell]

1 hour ago, Gregormannschaft said:

I bought a cheaper knock-off Gildecam last week...my word, IMPOSSIBLE to set up properly. I spent 2 hours at the weekend trying to get it stable and eventually had to give up, go to sleep and simply not use it on a shoot this week. Is there a trick to these things? Is it simply a case of practice makes perfect? I got it relatively stable, but it would always spin to the right slightly.

It sounds as though you should check out some tutorials on achieving dynamic balance, which will generally involve adjusting the sled weights non-symmetrically..

[Gregormannschaft]

Good call, thanks guys, really is much appreciated. 

[ade towell]

I had the Merlin many years ago and changed it for a Blackbird which was a lot easier to get balanced and fly. one things for sure - they all need a lot of practice to get anywhere near decent results

 

[Snowfun]

I have a steadicam solo. There are times my footage looks to have been taken from a yacht. I find the secret is not to plan the shot too much. If I do then I invariably struggle to get it right. But if I "go with the flow" then I get some decent useable footage. I realise that this approach wouldn't necessarily work in a scripted context but for making fun films it's an ideal technique. I find that with practice it's possible to read what it's about to do next. If it starts to rotate then go with it - react dynamically to what it does. It often works and, for an amateur like me, it's much better than trying to make it do something.

[Davey]

4 hours ago, Snowfun said:

I have a steadicam solo. There are times my footage looks to have been taken from a yacht. I find the secret is not to plan the shot too much. If I do then I invariably struggle to get it right. But if I "go with the flow" then I get some decent useable footage. I realise that this approach wouldn't necessarily work in a scripted context but for making fun films it's an ideal technique. I find that with practice it's possible to read what it's about to do next. If it starts to rotate then go with it - react dynamically to what it does. It often works and, for an amateur like me, it's much better than trying to make it do something.

That's how I used to work. Got some great shots sometimes because the wind would gently blow the camera around and I would just pivot around the vertical axis with my feet. Nimble footwork, hand position, subtle wrist rotation and keeping your body at the same height to the floor using your knees are as important as getting perfect balance.

A slightly off balance steadicam will always produces better results in experienced hands than a perfectly balanced unit in inexperienced hands.

Just a warning for any newbies - the learning curve for both balancing and operating can lead to alcohol dependence.

[Matt Kieley]

I ended up getting more money for some gear I was selling than I expected, so I bought a used Nebula 4000 Lite for about $300. It's a bit of a splurge (for me), but I'm excited.

[Gregormannschaft]

6 hours ago, Matt Kieley said:

I ended up getting more money for some gear I was selling than I expected, so I bought a used Nebula 4000 Lite for about $300. It's a bit of a splurge (for me), but I'm excited.

Nice! After my experience with this cheap Steadicam I'm very tempted to splurge on a Zhiyun Crane.