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Andrew Reid

Panasonic GH5 - all is revealed!

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

Perhaps I am not remembering correctly...

The new firmware release has Luminance Level set to 64-940 in 6k anamorphic HLG mode.

This cannot be changed.

Was this the same in the previous release?  Not 0 - 1023 ?

Is this changed?

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Just want to comment on the 2.3 GH5 fw - preliminary experience.

 

AF-C is waaay better for faces now.  For interview / locked on, set AF-C to face detect, AF Speed -4/-5 (slow), AF sensitivity -3 (max locked on).  This reduces pulsing considerably and the face detect is ok.  Should be useable for vlogs and casual use, need more testing before using it professionally but it could work.  I tried at 24p and it wasn't bad!  When it was left at default 0/0 there was pulsing and basically unusable professionally, but set to slow and locked on it was much better. Tested by filming myself in a static interview position, I sometimes moved back and forth like a real interview.  Focus racking isn't the smoothest, might not be acceptable if you want silky smooth transitions, but most people probably won't care.

I tried this with both the Panasonic 12-35mm and the Sigma 18-35mm with Metabones SB mark IV @ "F1.2".

Face tracking is hilarious though, nowhere near Sony.  If you tilt your face (still looking at camera, just your head over 30degrees) the box disappears.

From the YT videos it's clear that different settings get your drastically different results, so take note.

 

The second thing I want to use it for is B-roll.  I tried single area AF-C, set to 0/0 and it works decently in 60P.  Most B-roll I just use 60P and not 24p.  If left on -5/-3 it's not responsive enough for tracking objects and will easily lose focus if you are changing focus distance.

 

Very positive on it so far, especially for interview use and shallow DOF.  I'm not super confident in the AF-C for B-roll but time will tell.  

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More testing.  Af-c and tracking a subject for b roll not bad at 1/1 and you must keep your focus box over the target.

Once the afternoon system focuses on the background you are done if you are trying to use a larger box than your target (like zone focus for a7). The camera will stay locked on to background unless you almost fill the target again, so "zone" type focus is only good if you maintain the tracking.

But if you do you can pull of some nice push and pulls and have subject focus distance change, so very good improvement.

If panny can tweak it to prefer foreground objects (like everyone else) then it will be another step in the right direction.

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I did some tests as well and definitely, there is an improvement but still not useable and reliable for my liking.  I think at the current stage GH5's autofocusing is as good as it gets! can't expect much from contrast based focusing system. 

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Upon further inspection, I won't be using af-c for much b-roll except a few pull and pushes.  The background pulses at 1/1 occasionally and is pretty unreliable as it likes to focus on the background.  Might still use it for interviews at locked on / slow though.

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For FW 2.3, am I crazy or has the ability (or burden) of being able to shoot stills with v-log been added?

I don't remember this being the case previously, but now if I set the dial to movie mode, set the Photo style to 'V-Log L', and then change the mode to Aperture-priority to take some stills, the V-Log is still on, so my photos end up in V-Log.

Or conversely, if I'm shooting stills in Aperture-priority mode using photo style 'L.Monochrome D' and then switch the dial to Movie mode, the L.Monochrome carries over.

I just don't remember the hassle of having to keep switching back and forth between styles when switching between stills and video, I thought for some reason that movie mode would remember that it was last used in V-Log.

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14 hours ago, Brian Williams said:

For FW 2.3, am I crazy or has the ability (or burden) of being able to shoot stills with v-log been added?

I don't remember this being the case previously, but now if I set the dial to movie mode, set the Photo style to 'V-Log L', and then change the mode to Aperture-priority to take some stills, the V-Log is still on, so my photos end up in V-Log.

Or conversely, if I'm shooting stills in Aperture-priority mode using photo style 'L.Monochrome D' and then switch the dial to Movie mode, the L.Monochrome carries over.

I just don't remember the hassle of having to keep switching back and forth between styles when switching between stills and video, I thought for some reason that movie mode would remember that it was last used in V-Log.

That's interesting. The profile is now shared with movie mode. Is that different from before? I seem to remember the movie mode settings being quite independent of the photo settings. There's probably an extra menu item that changes it..

In other news, the cheapo grip is amazing, well worth getting for photographers https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DMW-BGGH5-Battery-Grip-for-Panasonic-DMW-GH5-GH5-Camera-DMW-BGGH5GK-DMW-BLF19-BLF19/32845153451.html 

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Hi, I have GH5 from little time. I will use it in semiautomatic mode to make 4K videos. I'd like tot know if it better to choose "A" or "S" mode. I will use the GH5 always outside where there is a lot of light (in summer). In your opinion is it better "A" or "S" mode option to get a better video quality? Thanks.

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6 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

Hi, I have GH5 from little time. I will use it in semiautomatic mode to make 4K videos. I'd like tot know if it better to choose "A" or "S" mode. I will use the GH5 always outside where there is a lot of light (in summer). In your opinion is it better "A" or "S" mode option to get a better video quality? Thanks.

You would want it in Aperture mode. You want to try and stay with the 180 degree shutter rule. So you don't want to be changing shutter speeds doing video. Now in Photo mode that would be acceptable.

 

 

Speaking of Lenses. How about $80,000.00 worth of them.

LoMO Anamorphic..jpg

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On 6/25/2018 at 3:09 AM, FoxAdriano said:

But if I shoot in 4K 50p, do you suggest  1/100 and the aperture between around 5.6-11. Is it ok? What do you think to choose Automatic ASA?

Yeah I use auto ASA, ISO at times if you want to keep the same Aperture you Have to adjust the ISO, only thing left other than maybe + or - on the exposure wheel, and that is the same on paper as changing Aperture. But if you are in a Log, Cine 5 setting you can't change ISO, it will be stuck there. I think is the same on theGH5. Never owned one so not sure about that fact on the GH5. On my Sony a7s if I use Slog 2 it is stuck at ISO 3200 like it or not! I have to use ND filters to overcome that in daylight. At night trying to get extended DR is sometimes a waste of time if it is so dark there really isn't a wide DR to even shoot. So Log, Cine's might be more problem than they are worth in those situations. Now if you light a lot of stuff, like a person should, good luck with that happening on average, sure then it works.

ASA is a dead word for film, digital cameras for years. It is ISO now, nothing else .

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Sorry to be contradictory here, but I believe you want to use Shutter Priority to maintain the 180 degree shutter rule. This means you will set the shutter speed to double your frame rate (for the GH5 just use Shutter Angle instead of shutter speed so you don’t have to ever change it if you change frame rates) and then the camera will adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly to have 0 exposure. If you want to over or under expose, you can adjust exposure compensation from +/- 0 based on your needs (+1.7/2 stops for sLog2, etc)

With some cameras (I don’t know if the GH5 is capable of this) you can set a maximum ISO so you won’t introduce noise due to the camera choosing to go too high with your ISO.

You can also use ND filters to trick your camera to open the aperture if you want to have shallow depth of field.

In a lot of instances shutter priority mode can work great for keeping an even exposure but in some instances, with certain picture profiles where you need to keep your exposure at a certain level to mimic the log curve, I find it’s easier to use manual mode and a variable ND or a lens with a clickless aperture with the aid of the in camera meter, zebras and waveform monitor. 

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