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Geoff CB

GFILM: An easily graded Flat Profile for Sony Cameras

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On 9/18/2017 at 2:47 PM, JeremyDulac said:

@Geoff CB

 

I just have to tell ya how awesome this profile is working for me. Probably the most pleasing profile settings i have used for the Sony Mirrorless cameras, and I have tried A LOT of profiles, everyone seems to have there own take...every other profile I have tried has had some issue...I love the way the greens pop with this profile, very alexa like. So very nice work and thank you for making this available to everyone for free, you certainly didnt have to. I just paid money for a couple new slog profiles to try out and they arent working well at all...wasted money. That is why I feel so compelled to tell you how much I appreciate you giving away knowledge for free. This has made me realize I am no longer going to waste money on profiles and whatnot...more often than not people are just gimicking you into buying it. And again, more times than not, it is the free knowledge people give away that is most useful, as opposed to when people make you pay.

 

So thanks again!

Thank you so much for the compliment.

That said people do put effort into these profiles. Time that they could be spending working. In my case it was created because I needed to get it close to an URSA for a short film (that I hopefully can post here soon). Omeneo has some incredible LUT's for S-Log 2, but it REALLY pushes the bitrate and work best with external recorders. EOSHD is fantastic for documentary and a nice output right out of camera, I've used it when I have to deliver and have no input into post production. Haven't tried Andrew's LOG yet but from what I've seen it's great.

Different profiles for different situations :) 

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
On 10/10/2016 at 9:54 AM, Geoff CB said:

 

BEACHORIGIONAL.jpg

BEACHColored.jpg

GFILM
Made for A7rII, should work on A7s, A7sII, A6300, A6500  EDIT: While it will work on all these cameras, some have been reporting subpar results on the origional a7s due to its slightly different color science. I've only tested myself on the A7r II, results may very slightly on other cameras.

I've been trying to give the A7r II a look similar to "Film" on the blackmagic Ursa Mini 4.6K. The need arose because I am shooting with the two camera side by side and need to edit them together.

Had a couple goals with this:
- Get away from the "Magenta" look
- Be able to match with BM "Film" in post
- A flat profile that doesn't break when grading like S-log sometimes does, is easier to shoot with, and can get a get a great look with a simple color wheel adjustment.
- Don't clip any color channel

Let me know what you guys think!


Black Level: 0
Gamma: S-Log2
Black Gamma 
- Range: Middle
- Level: 0
Knee: Manual  (It blows my mind this is left on Auto by default, it controls how the highlights behave)
- point: 77.5%
- slope: +3
Color Mode:
A7r II: Pro - Works well by manually grading, also works well with Blackmagic 4.6K LUTS
A7s II / A6500 / FS5: S-Gamut3.cine - Works very well with Arri Alexa based LUTs
Saturation: +3
Color Phase: -4
Color Depth: (Wish they would let this be adjusted for highlights/midtones/blacks independently)
- R: +5
- G: +7
- B: +3
- C: +2
- M: -2
- Y: +2
Detail: -7
- Mode: Manual
- V/H Balance: 0
- B&W Balance: Type5
- Limit: 3
- Crispening: 3
- Hi-Light Detail: 0

Couple notes on shooting with this:

-Always overexpose by at least one stop to get a clean image.
-Set WB manually, do not leave on Auto
-Shoot at the native ISO of your camera

UPDATE:
I've created this correction LUT for viewing on external monitors and to provide a quick correction in post. Keep in mind that this is a correction LUT, and does not replace actual grading, it's just meant to give you a good base. I typically apply this then raise the highlights/exposure further.

Please feel free to test and give feedback!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0n4afeTfggjamF1TFFna05DdGM


All samples shot in FF mode on the A7rII, will post more from the short film when I have permission.

C0043.MP4.11_04_16_03.Still001.jpg

(This shot above was underexposed, resulting in noisier blacks)

banjo.jpg

pots.jpg

firetruck.jpg

rivergraded.jpg

Shot this yesterday using your S-log settings:

 

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On 11/30/2017 at 8:38 AM, Jadesroom said:

Nice job.  I'd also like to see some skin tones.

Me too. But no skin was available.

:anguished:

I need to refine my sense of how to expose this pic profile, but I think it's really, really good and easy to grade--even when you don't expose it perfectly.

Someone, unlike me, who actually knows what they're doing might produce something really lovely with this.

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On 09/03/2018 at 9:51 PM, Geoff CB said:



Working on a "Insta" LUT. So great output right out the gate. The correction LUT still requires some tweaking and I wanted to make a LUT for faster turnaround projects.

5aa2f6f93f9e7_poolbefore_1_10.1.thumb.jpg.6a76bc1261ffd31ad2843d98cba9fc6e.jpg5aa2f6f4cf666_poolafter_1.9.1.thumb.jpg.2cb25c4db5575d2bd14ecafb1ba47912.jpg

 

 

leaves_1.1.2.thumb.jpg.98a4af2f42156e4477f855a45389c67c.jpg

Looks brilliant, as always. Let us know when it's ready, happy to throw a few $ your way as well if it's up on Selfy or something, your profile has been a huge help over the past year or so.

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GFILM INSTA LUTs:  CLICK HERE .



INSTA : This is the straight out of camera LUT I created for it. If your exposing for this keep the exposure near average and you should get a good image. Can result in a little more noise than the other LUTS.

Original

5aa9477fd09fc_ChairOrigional_1_11.1.thumb.jpg.8ea303a937e955ee32cf77e112c39fc1.jpg

Insta LUT
5aa953db30d1e_chairInsta_1_11.2.thumb.jpg.1b03f806743505d7822d535b4160e1b3.jpg

Original
firebefore_1.8.1.thumb.jpg.9793c9ee1f3eb78ec962d6b52ffc17df.jpg
Insta LUT

Fireafter_1.8.2.thumb.jpg.5a99ca3ed4ca5e548322faa429635c3c.jpg

Original 
5aa952ee6dd80_TruckBefore_1_11.1.thumb.jpg.43d69012fafee1efdccf86b7044fe784.jpg
Insta  LUT
5aa952fb36a6c_TruckAfter_1_11.2.thumb.jpg.9a71e2fe822958e543af08679a8bc42d.jpg

INSTA_ETTR : This is for exposing to the right shooting, recommend when using external monitors. When adjusted it will make an almost exact copy for regular INSTA, with cleaner shadows.  (No samples yet)


INSTA_C: Slightly different rolloff curve, I try to expose the image as much as I can when using it for a clean image. I like to use this with an external monitor to have more control over the image. A little more  "cinematic" than Insta.

Original5aaa65cce1c1b_Geoffbefore_1_69.5.thumb.jpg.b823b8935198b8ba51e6f9097dcbcdc6.jpg
Insta_C LUT

5aaa65d208240_GeoffAfter_1_69.4.thumb.jpg.e9e90e95cc469d6f61054c92e64d978d.jpg

Original
5aa9531be70e5_Hikebefore_1_22.2.thumb.jpg.5748dc6f52d77974239890d846e9e3c1.jpg
Insta_C LUT
5aa953248a2ec_hikeafter_1_22.1.thumb.jpg.90b45d5b105ccdbb3642088d29bcb135.jpg

Insta C LUT
Chair_Insta_C_1_11.4.thumb.jpg.cf3c3a2c876810c82558aa9a7bb7c729.jpg

Adjusted

Chair_Insta_C_adjusted.thumb.jpg.0aab3488e18405808db7661d8b14a70b.jpg

On ‎3‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 8:40 AM, Gregormannschaft said:

Looks brilliant, as always. Let us know when it's ready, happy to throw a few $ your way as well if it's up on Selfy or something, your profile has been a huge help over the past year or so.

I appreciate it, I'm not going to charge for them. But if you want to donate feel free to here https://medium.com/@geoffcbassett/gfilm-a-grade-friendly-video-profile-for-sony-cameras-5fa857c446b2.

 

 

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@Geoff CB Firstly, thanks for all your work on this.

I am a bit confused / concerned about blanket statements like:

"should always be 2 stops overexposed." (in regards to insta c).

Does that mean we should basically ignore the zebras on our Sony cameras when shooting in Slog 2?

Or is it more appropriate to say, "Expose UP TO 2 stops over but without going over 95% in your highlights?"

Also, my understanding is that it is not necessarily a great idea to get skintones exposed high enough that they start to get into the compressed highlights area, because once you start to bring them back in post, they just look kind of fake.

Not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely curious as to where to best draw the line when it comes to exposing properly.

(Maybe this is more of a GENERAL slog 2 question than a question specific to GFilm???)

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1 hour ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

@Geoff CB Firstly, thanks for all your work on this.

I am a bit confused / concerned about blanket statements like:

"should always be 2 stops overexposed." (in regards to insta c).

Does that mean we should basically ignore the zebras on our Sony cameras when shooting in Slog 2?

Or is it more appropriate to say, "Expose UP TO 2 stops over but without going over 95% in your highlights?"

Also, my understanding is that it is not necessarily a great idea to get skintones exposed high enough that they start to get into the compressed highlights area, because once you start to bring them back in post, they just look kind of fake.

Not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely curious as to where to best draw the line when it comes to exposing properly.

(Maybe this is more of a GENERAL slog 2 question than a question specific to GFilm???)

I rephrased. Generally I expose it as much as I can without clipping information. You are correct however you should avoid having your skin tone start to clip in the highlights. For me this creates a filmic look when I exposed heavily and then brought down in this way. If you want a good true-to-life image, stick with regular Insta.

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17 minutes ago, Geoff CB said:

I rephrased. Generally I expose it as much as I can without clipping information. You are correct however you should avoid having your skin tone start to clip in the highlights. For me this creates a filmic look when I exposed heavily and then brought down in this way. If you want a good true-to-life image, stick with regular Insta.

Thanks so much for the clarification. I really appreciate it. Look forward to trying them out.

Again, thanks for all the work you put into the profile and the LUTs.

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not sure if youve seen this Mark, but you may find it helpful. here is an old link that dispels a myth or two about  log gamma.   http://www.xdcam-user.com/2015/12/deeper-understanding-of-log-gamma-experiments-with-a-waveform-display/

and you can easily test it yourself! (which is probably best if you look to eoshd as a primary source of advice)

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14 hours ago, sam said:

not sure if youve seen this Mark, but you may find it helpful. here is an old link that dispels a myth or two about  log gamma.   http://www.xdcam-user.com/2015/12/deeper-understanding-of-log-gamma-experiments-with-a-waveform-display/

and you can easily test it yourself! (which is probably best if you look to eoshd as a primary source of advice)

Thanks for the link, Sam. I read through it a couple of times but it seems to still be a bit over my head once I try to understand how the S log gamma would affect skin tones (which I guess would be mid tones).

From that article, the takeaways I got were:

1) In S Log 2, protect the shadows,

2) In cinegammas, protect highlights,

3) In an effort to protect highlights (using either S Log or Cine Gammas), your skin tones might end up getting compressed,

4) Don't use S Log 3 unless you are either a genius or an idiot

Is that about right???

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25 minutes ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks for the link, Sam. I read through it a couple of times but it seems to still be a bit over my head once I try to understand how the S log gamma would affect skin tones (which I guess would be mid tones).

From that article, the takeaways I got were:

1) In S Log 2, protect the shadows,

2) In cinegammas, protect highlights,

3) In an effort to protect highlights (using either S Log or Cine Gammas), your skin tones might end up getting compressed,

4) Don't use S Log 3 unless you are either a genius or an idiot

Is that about right???

3) is a really important one. Otherwise you'll might dive into terrible German movie territory...

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so for number 3, as long as skin tones are placed above middle grey when using a log curve you will be good and basically choose scene appropriate gamma for optimal post manipulation.

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While I know there is no blanket "correct" exposure, I hope you could give these screenshots a look - taken BEFORE post processing - and say which is the RIGHT exposure. The top photo is about a stop and a third over the bottom photo (according to my a6500). Where do I want my scopes / waveform to appear?

 

 

zebras1.jpg

 

For this bottom shot, I set the zebras to 95 and I closed down until just at the point where the zebras stopped appearing in the sky.

 

zebras2.jpg

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16 hours ago, Geoff CB said:

Testing it out on the A7 III, so far enjoy the results. Glad I can still use it on my new camera. 

Gfilm a7 III_1.9.3.jpg

Did you use the same settings like you did for your A7SII? I have used GFilm on my old A7SII with my SmallHD and i absolutely loved it but recently I switched to the Sony A7III. So Iam even more curious what settings you used.

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