Jump to content
mercer

G7 Test Grades & Settings

Recommended Posts

EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
3 minutes ago, mercer said:

Haha, I'll have to remember that. I was blaming my girlfriend because she kept talking to me while I was trying to nail the skin tones. 

But yeah, this Tokina lens is awesome. I didn't expect much from it when I bought it, but I'm a sucker for 28 and/or 35mm f2 lenses.

Those look great, so you didn't use any LUT at all? I was getting the colors close, but they ended up looking too flat, how did you get that finish polish or sheen to it? Is it simply contrast?

Thanks!

Thanks! No LUT. Just DaVinci Resolves lovely gamma wheel, a lot of saturation, some fiddling with the contrast curve, and then I balanced the individual red, green and blue curves in a separate node. It's very easy to get lost with the individual curves though... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, André Eriksson said:

Thanks! No LUT. Just DaVinci Resolves lovely gamma wheel, a lot of saturation, some fiddling with the contrast curve, and then I balanced the individual red, green and blue curves in a separate node. It's very easy to get lost with the individual curves though... 

Cool, thanks. I'll keep at it. I swear the more I try, the worse they turn out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, PannySVHS said:

Hey Merc!

One thing I recognized, I had to be pretty careful with the color sliders on the Cine D file. Also, light in this scene seems challenging to pull something magical out of this file. We nerds love to talk about thick colors when it comes to the technical side of the digital pipeline. I think thick light would be just as much appreciated. These dull winter days don´t often provide that at them moment. I think one can immediately recognize the magic glow of light by eye. Not talking about magic hour but the very different beasts of light depending on time of the year, day, haze, dust, sandstorm:), region,  whatsoever...:)

I noticed the same thing too. I had a good bit of latitude, but then... One more little tweak... and it fell apart... quick.

And you are so right about the light.

The problem I had with these shots were it was just bright enough to use an ND, but there was just enough pockets of shadow that I really had to be careful what I decided to blow out. 

Do you use zebras? I have mine set at 100, but I remember reading somewhere that you should set them at 80 or 85 when filming people. When your filming a person outdoors, do you set them at 80 or 85 and then use the histogram to help expose the rest of the shot?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, mercer said:

I noticed the same thing too. I had a good bit of latitude, but then... One more little tweak... and it fell apart... quick.

And you are so right about the light.

The problem I had with these shots were it was just bright enough to use an ND, but there was just enough pockets of shadow that I really had to be careful what I decided to blow out. 

Do you use zebras? I have mine set at 100, but I remember reading somewhere that you should set them at 80 or 85 when filming people. When your filming a person outdoors, do you set them at 80 or 85 and then use the histogram to help expose the rest of the shot?

80% zebras are for skin colors, for white people at least. That is used by default in the ENG world. Zebras at 80% and you let just a hint of them on the forehead/cheek. That is a television standard, at least around here. ENG cameras ussualy have very limited DR and very poor highlight rolloff, so this is a way to avoid a messy shot. On higher DR cameras(dslr an above) I always set zebras to 100% so I know exactly what is getting blown out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, jagnje said:

80% zebras are for skin colors, for white people at least. That is used by default in the ENG world. Zebras at 80% and you let just a hint of them on the forehead/cheek. That is a television standard, at least around here. ENG cameras ussualy have very limited DR and very poor highlight rolloff, so this is a way to avoid a messy shot. On higher DR cameras(dslr an above) I always set zebras to 100% so I know exactly what is getting blown out.

Thanks jagne, that helps a lot. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ended up using my CineD-to-Vlog setting in DaVinci. I think it is close to what Balazer is doing, but without going to an ACER-like colorspace.

Gives a lot of control ...especially to Close-up shot was way easier to grade then using an inverted curve in AE. Attached the DaVinci setting for whio is interested.

CineD-grade.thumb.jpg.b98c84e41126327b57

CineD-grade_02.jpg.35726b1104620afa19d88

I don't think the .drx is needed ...but just in case.

mercer_grade_1.3.1.dpx

mercer_grade_1.3.1.drx

If you are serious about grading drop anything you use now and go for DaVinci ....it's really that good.

 

Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, bunk said:

I ended up using my CineD-to-Vlog setting in DaVinci. I think it is close to what Balazer is doing, but without going to an ACER-like colorspace.

Gives a lot of control ...especially to Close-up shot was way easier to grade then using an inverted curve in AE. Attached the DaVinci setting for whio is interested.

CineD-grade.thumb.jpg.b98c84e41126327b57

CineD-grade_02.jpg.35726b1104620afa19d88

I don't think the .drx is needed ...but just in case.

mercer_grade_1.3.1.dpx

mercer_grade_1.3.1.drx

If you are serious about grading drop anything you use now and go for DaVinci ....it's really that good.

 

Cheers.

They look really good. Great job!!! Davinici seems like an amazing program. My problem is that I am not that serious about grading. I am a screenwriter that also loves shooting, so I am looking for an outlet for my writing and a look for my films. 

For instance, here is a grab from a recent test shot with the same Tokina lens.

CineLikeD with everything dialed down...

 

Tokina CineLikeD CineLook Ungraded.jpg

Here it is with a minor curve adjustment and a little hue adjustment with red and yellow...

Tokina CineLikeD CineLook Color Finale.jpg

And here's the next level adding the CineLook plug in.

Tokina CineLikeD Color Finale CineLook.jpg

That last one also has a touch of gorilla grain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, mercer said:

And here's the next level adding the CineLook plug in

Looks cool! If it works for you like that I would stick to it. Never change a winning team. looking forward to your first rushes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, bunk said:

Looks cool! If it works for you like that I would stick to it. Never change a winning team. looking forward to your first rushes

I like the look, but I assume that plug in will degrade the image quality, so I have been trying to reproduce it by using conventional grading. Plus that CineLook plug in brings my Mac to a grinding halt.

Thanks for the tips, and interest in my neverending tests... It's really appreciated! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...