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Pistol grip 3-axis gimbal stabilizer


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7 hours ago, Michael Ma said:

 

It's unfortunate that there wasn't coverage of the beholder from the likes of Dave Dugdale.  I think he got a preproduction model and he's shrugged it off ever since and seemed pretty fed up with it.  I bought the H1+ because of his recommendation.  But maybe Beholder is nicer.  But, DPStewart said that be prepared to spend zero hours balancing it.  But in the video, it looks like you gotta balance it.  I can balance the H1+ in a few minutes.  Requires a tool.  PID settings....especially with a different lens and/or body, well that's another story.

Yeah - of course you have to balance it!
But the DS1 uses NO TOOLS to balance and I can go from my BMPCC with a small lens and then switch to my NX1 with a big lens and TOTALLY re-balance every axis in about 2-minutes. BOOM! 
And you don't have to go into PID settings at all because the DS1 comes shipped with 2 settings already for heavier and for lighter cameras.
Sometimes I have more trouble than that just tying my damn shoes!

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Okay folks,

NO.
You cannot balance the DS1 with the giant Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art lens.
I used the Metabones Speecbooster's foot as the connection point instead of the BMPCC's own bottom mount, but it's still too front heavy.
By the time you move the mounting point far enough forward, the camera will hit the back of the cradle.
Now you could also add about 300 grams on top of the BMPCC - that would get the balance right - but by then you will be significantly over the DS1's max payload of 1.6kg.

Oh well...I never even suspected that would work anyway. This lens is a freakin' BAZOOKA.

The one lens that I really want to try that I don't have is the Samyang/Rokinon 16mm T/2.2 because that is a great lens, and their 10mm can be a little too wide sometimes even though it's a killer lens.

I have a couple of 20mm's that I've been using but I'm not knocked out with them. Nikkor Ai-s 20mm and a Voightlander 20mm pancake style. They are both "good" lenses, but they aren't "fantastic". I think 20mm is a length that just doesn't lend itself to great lenses maybe. I dunnno.
Anyone know of a really killer 20mm lens? I also have the Panny 20mm f/1.7 but that lens is also in the "good": category, but as an MFT lens I cannot speedboost it so it's really not a comparable 20mm even.
I've heard good things about the Olympus 17mm - but that's really close to the Sam/Rock...and the Olympus 25mm gets into the range of my Nikkor 28mm Ai-S which IS a great lens.

Anyone got any other recommendations?

Thanks.
 

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2 hours ago, Sebv said:

Did some tests with the beholder ds1 and a lighter setup than the 5d, tried it with the sony rx10 II i used the step up plate and the lighter profile

took me 5 minutes and was good to go

 

Haaa! You were just hangin' your DS1 upside down out the car window, were'nt you!?!?

DON'T DROP IT!!

Nice. Very nice!

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2 hours ago, DPStewart said:

Okay folks,

NO.
You cannot balance the DS1 with the giant Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art lens.
I used the Metabones Speecbooster's foot as the connection point instead of the BMPCC's own bottom mount, but it's still too front heavy.
By the time you move the mounting point far enough forward, the camera will hit the back of the cradle.
Now you could also add about 300 grams on top of the BMPCC - that would get the balance right - but by then you will be significantly over the DS1's max payload of 1.6kg.

Oh well...I never even suspected that would work anyway. This lens is a freakin' BAZOOKA.

The one lens that I really want to try that I don't have is the Samyang/Rokinon 16mm T/2.2 because that is a great lens, and their 10mm can be a little too wide sometimes even though it's a killer lens.

I have a couple of 20mm's that I've been using but I'm not knocked out with them. Nikkor Ai-s 20mm and a Voightlander 20mm pancake style. They are both "good" lenses, but they aren't "fantastic". I think 20mm is a length that just doesn't lend itself to great lenses maybe. I dunnno.
Anyone know of a really killer 20mm lens? I also have the Panny 20mm f/1.7 but that lens is also in the "good": category, but as an MFT lens I cannot speedboost it so it's really not a comparable 20mm even.
I've heard good things about the Olympus 17mm - but that's really close to the Sam/Rock...and the Olympus 25mm gets into the range of my Nikkor 28mm Ai-S which IS a great lens.

Anyone got any other recommendations?

Thanks.
 

Thanks for doing that DP. Very good to know. So, I doubt you have the lens, but my next question would be about the Nikon 17-55 2.8. It's slightly lighter, and slightly shorter, both of which would help. It's also slightly wider, which if it goes on the DS1, would be helpful with operation. If that doesn't work, then the Tokina 11-16, which is again, even shorter and lighter than the 17-55, and of course much wider. 

The 20mm on a BMPCC with the speedbooster ends up a 35mm, which is a wide normal. 24mm and 28mm are even more normal (42mm and 49mm) and that is my favorite range. Not for instant gratification, because there's none of that, but for the exact opposite reason.

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On February 15, 2016 at 6:48 AM, IronFilm said:

Good to know, thanks  

4 hours ago, DPStewart said:

Okay folks,

NO.
You cannot balance the DS1 with the giant Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art lens.
I used the Metabones Speecbooster's foot as the connection point instead of the BMPCC's own bottom mount, but it's still too front heavy.
By the time you move the mounting point far enough forward, the camera will hit the back of the cradle.
Now you could also add about 300 grams on top of the BMPCC - that would get the balance right - but by then you will be significantly over the DS1's max payload of 1.6kg.

Oh well...I never even suspected that would work anyway. This lens is a freakin' BAZOOKA.

The one lens that I really want to try that I don't have is the Samyang/Rokinon 16mm T/2.2 because that is a great lens, and their 10mm can be a little too wide sometimes even though it's a killer lens.

I have a couple of 20mm's that I've been using but I'm not knocked out with them. Nikkor Ai-s 20mm and a Voightlander 20mm pancake style. They are both "good" lenses, but they aren't "fantastic". I think 20mm is a length that just doesn't lend itself to great lenses maybe. I dunnno.
Anyone know of a really killer 20mm lens? I also have the Panny 20mm f/1.7 but that lens is also in the "good": category, but as an MFT lens I cannot speedboost it so it's really not a comparable 20mm even.
I've heard good things about the Olympus 17mm - but that's really close to the Sam/Rock...and the Olympus 25mm gets into the range of my Nikkor 28mm Ai-S which IS a great lens.

Anyone got any other recommendations?

Thanks.
 

The RMC Tokina 17mm is a great lens. It's a 3.5, but speed boosted, it should be plenty fast enough. I had the Canon FD 17mm and that was a decent lens too. 

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2 hours ago, blafarm said:

Thank you all for the DS1 comments and samples.  It seems like a good product, but the B&H reviews are a bit concerning.

Those are NOTHING! Man, you should have seen the complaints on the first year of the Nebula 4000!

Almost all the gimbals rack up complaints.

Mine was all hosed up when it arrived - thought it was defective. Turned out someone loaded in the wrong PID software profile in manufacturing.
Loaded up the correct one from the drop-down list. Then did the 20-second horizon auto-calibration and it's been right on the money ever since.

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7 hours ago, DPStewart said:

Those are NOTHING! Man, you should have seen the complaints on the first year of the Nebula 4000!

Almost all the gimbals rack up complaints.

Mine was all hosed up when it arrived - thought it was defective. Turned out someone loaded in the wrong PID software profile in manufacturing.
Loaded up the correct one from the drop-down list. Then did the 20-second horizon auto-calibration and it's been right on the money ever since.

@DPStewart - I have a DS1, but haven't had much time to configure it or test it.  Is there some recommended documentation or tutorials that would allow me to quickly configure it and the profiles for the camera/lens combinations that I have (G7, LX100)?

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46 minutes ago, sgreszcz said:

@DPStewart - I have a DS1, but haven't had much time to configure it or test it.  Is there some recommended documentation or tutorials that would allow me to quickly configure it and the profiles for the camera/lens combinations that I have (G7, LX100)?

Yes.
Here's the video they put out about the PID software.
There is also a PDF instruction set that they sent me too.
Helpful folks over there at Owl Dolly.
 


And here is balancing a lighter camera like maybe the LX100.
Also - there is a 4th mode that applies lower powered motor settings for lighter cameras - you press the little silver metal "calibration" button on the camera platform 3-times quickly to enter it. 
It is basically a second set of PID values that are reduced in power for lightweight cameras.
 

 

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On 2/24/2016 at 3:35 AM, DPStewart said:


And here is balancing a lighter camera like maybe the LX100.
Also - there is a 4th mode that applies lower powered motor settings for lighter cameras - you press the little silver metal "calibration" button on the camera platform 3-times quickly to enter it. 
It is basically a second set of PID values that are reduced in power for lightweight cameras.

Oh, I was under the impression by your previous comments that the beholder did not require PID tuning like the CameTV Single.  TBH, the beholder looks like it is about the same level of difficulty as the Pilotfly for PID tuning.

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18 minutes ago, Michael Ma said:

Oh, I was under the impression by your previous comments that the beholder did not require PID tuning like the CameTV Single.  TBH, the beholder looks like it is about the same level of difficulty as the Pilotfly for PID tuning.

No, it doesn;t require it.
That 4th (and 5th for head follow) mode for lighter cameras is pre-programmed.
You CAN however go into the PID software and set the moter powers a little differently for your exact cameras.

With the normal stock software profile the regular mode has the motors turned up all the way to handle a camera up to the full weight.
And the "lightweight" mode (Modes #4 and #5) are set really low to handle things like an iPhone 6 or a Sony a5100.
My BMPCC with speedbooster and voightlander lens and extra battery was still a little to light for the regular mode, but just a tad too heavy for the lightweight mode - so I went into the PID software and just bumped up the motor power settings 2 steps only for the "lightweight" modes #4 and #5, and now it's perfect for my exact BMPCC setup. And the normal mode is still perfect for my other DSLRs and my NX1.
 

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2 hours ago, DPStewart said:

No, it doesn;t require it.
That 4th (and 5th for head follow) mode for lighter cameras is pre-programmed.
You CAN however go into the PID software and set the moter powers a little differently for your exact cameras.

With the normal stock software profile the regular mode has the motors turned up all the way to handle a camera up to the full weight.
And the "lightweight" mode (Modes #4 and #5) are set really low to handle things like an iPhone 6 or a Sony a5100.
My BMPCC with speedbooster and voightlander lens and extra battery was still a little to light for the regular mode, but just a tad too heavy for the lightweight mode - so I went into the PID software and just bumped up the motor power settings 2 steps only for the "lightweight" modes #4 and #5, and now it's perfect for my exact BMPCC setup. And the normal mode is still perfect for my other DSLRs and my NX1.
 

Which voightlander is it? I'm going to be looking for a good lens for the bmpcc and ds1. I've got a couple ideas but I'm still trying to sort it out. 

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1 hour ago, Jonesy Jones said:

Which voightlander is it? I'm going to be looking for a good lens for the bmpcc and ds1. I've got a couple ideas but I'm still trying to sort it out. 

It's the 20mm f/3.5 "pancake" style.
One of the smaller 20mm out there. Just as sharp as any other pretty much. 
Not the fastest lens in the world, but it IS sharp all the way open at f/3.5....which of course becomes about f/2.4 with the speedbooster.
VERY well made lens. 
All the serious reviews gave it very good reports, so I figured that as mainly the Gimbal use lens it would be right on the money....IT IS. 
Not super cheap - $500 new. But It's a really solid lens that gives NO problems on single-handle gimbals. And with the Speedbooster the field of view is really great for most gimbal stuff. It pretty much stays on my DS1 all the time ready to go at a moment's notice. 
Expensive - but it completed my gimbal steady-shot setup perfectly so I'm glad I got it.
I've looked around, but I don't think there's any other 20mm that can go on a Speedbooster that's any better.

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1 hour ago, DPStewart said:

It's the 20mm f/3.5 "pancake" style.
One of the smaller 20mm out there. Just as sharp as any other pretty much. 
Not the fastest lens in the world, but it IS sharp all the way open at f/3.5....which of course becomes about f/2.4 with the speedbooster.
VERY well made lens. 
All the serious reviews gave it very good reports, so I figured that as mainly the Gimbal use lens it would be right on the money....IT IS. 
Not super cheap - $500 new. But It's a really solid lens that gives NO problems on single-handle gimbals. And with the Speedbooster the field of view is really great for most gimbal stuff. It pretty much stays on my DS1 all the time ready to go at a moment's notice. 
Expensive - but it completed my gimbal steady-shot setup perfectly so I'm glad I got it.
I've looked around, but I don't think there's any other 20mm that can go on a Speedbooster that's any better.

Can't wait to get the DS1. I am going to try the Nikon 17-55 on it. Might be too big but it's a little lighter and shorter than the Sigma. I am probably going to hold off on the DS1 though until NAB. You never know what might come out, or how it might affect current prices. Good things come to those who wait I guess.

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On February 24, 2016 at 5:13 PM, DPStewart said:

Okay folks,

NO.
You cannot balance the DS1 with the giant Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art lens.
I used the Metabones Speecbooster's foot as the connection point instead of the BMPCC's own bottom mount, but it's still too front heavy.
By the time you move the mounting point far enough forward, the camera will hit the back of the cradle.
Now you could also add about 300 grams on top of the BMPCC - that would get the balance right - but by then you will be significantly over the DS1's max payload of 1.6kg.

Oh well...I never even suspected that would work anyway. This lens is a freakin' BAZOOKA.
 

DP, so again, I know that you probably don't have this lens, but considering your experience with the DS1, BMPCC and 18-35, what would you think about the Sigma 10-20 paired with BMPCC on the DS1? It's over a half pound lighter (nearly a third of the weight) and over an inch shorter. I believe both lighter and shorter work in the favor of it going on the DS1. 

The lens itself seems to be a great lens that would pair nicely with the 18-35. Anyway, thoughts?

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4 hours ago, Jonesy Jones said:

DP, so again, I know that you probably don't have this lens, but considering your experience with the DS1, BMPCC and 18-35, what would you think about the Sigma 10-20 paired with BMPCC on the DS1? It's over a half pound lighter (nearly a third of the weight) and over an inch shorter. I believe both lighter and shorter work in the favor of it going on the DS1. 

The lens itself seems to be a great lens that would pair nicely with the 18-35. Anyway, thoughts?

I'd say there's a 75% chance that will work if you use the foot of the speedbooster or the foot of any other lens adapter as the mounting point - not the BMPCC.
You may still have to put a little weight on top of the BMPCC, but putting an external Sony NP770 on top of it for longer use is a good idea anyway. Kills 2 birds with one stone.

 

3 hours ago, SR said:

Does anyone know the difference between Ikan Beholder DS1 and Beholder DS1? It appears to be the same item, yet have a price difference of a $100.

 

 

Most of what Ikan sells is just re-branded items. It's the same.

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