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C100 MkII - Picture Profiles/ Set Up - For Mixed Light Sources/ Etc.


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Hi folks, my basic approach has been to use C Log for daylight shooting and then switch to WDR (wide dynamic range) for night shooting.
Yesterday I was doing some night shooting under mixed lighting. In reviewing the material, I noticed that a fluorescent source cast a green bar across the frame. I did a little research and learned that Canon cameras can have some issues with fluorescent sources: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=65661. This lead me to consider the camera's picture profile settings and maybe trying to modify a profile to better deal with mixed sources that contain fluorescent light. In heading into this, and after a little Googling I found this site: http://www.nathanblairfilm.com/canon-c100-color-profiles. The site does not contain any info on profile that will deal with a green colour bar issue I'm seeing in the supplied frame grab but did start me thinking about modified Picture Profile that would kick the C100 MkII towards a better image. 

The short of this is that I'm curious to know:

1) What, if any, Picture Profiles folks are using in the Canon Cine cameras? The gist of what I've been reading is that both C Log and WDR have the same amount of dynamic range so just go with WDR if you don't want to work as hard to grade the footage. Anyone care to confirm or deny?

2) Has anyone else seen any kind of green bar across any of their footage under fluorescent sources?

3) Has anyone modified a Picture Profile to something that they know and trust to deliver something better than what the camera shipped with. For run and gun etc. I tend to like to set it and forget it but I am willing to step up to enable profiles that may be suited to deliver better results.

Happy to hear your thoughts...

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EOSHD Pro Color 5 for Sony cameras EOSHD Z LOG for Nikon CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

1) I used CLog when I first got the camera but have since switched to WDR. It seems the main difference between the two profiles is how the tonal range is spread. Shadows are lighter in WDR, whereas they're darker in CLOG so you have to increase exposure to compensate. 

2) Never seen that green bar except when I used a Nikon D7100 for photography (and only one of the two units I used had the problem). I would probably get your camera repaired/replaced.

3) One thing that I've not really seen mentioned anywhere is the use of "Phase" in the Color Matrix section. Increasing this can have a nice effect on the overall image, especially skin tones. I also spent some time tweaking CLOG to get rid of the raised blacks etc. But as I say, in the end I switched to WDR. I've only used the camera for a few projects so far though so my opinions may change.

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Aaron, Inazuma... thanks for jumping in with your thoughts.

Interesting to hear that you've switched to WDR Inazuma. I remember you commenting that WDR was rubbish.
For sure it would be great to have more 'solid' info from the pros who have worked into the PP setting to really pull the best out of the camera. 

I think that the green bar seen in the top of the frame might be some kind of reflection/ refraction of the fluorescent tube within the Sigma 18-35. It could also be that the fluorescent light is built in a part of the world where standards are different, inferior, adulterated. I'll try and recreate the green bar with other fluorescent tubes and report back.

Aaron, at first I thought that I might have made a big mistake with the C100 MkII with everyone beating the Sony/ Blackmagic drum. But in putting it through the paces, I've really come to appreciate the look and feel that I'm getting out of it... it just looks fucking great! Never mind just how practical it is.

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The green bar issue could well be a lens issue. Does it happen with any other glass?

Good thinking Liam, and thanks for your point.

I'll try to recreate the issue and with the same lens and try some other lenses in the process. Will report back. 

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The green bar is there with Canon lenses as well. This only seems to be happening with fluorescent tube lights. I haven't tried to dial it out with any Picture Profiles of White balances yet. Any ideas?

Edit. Just did a black balance but didn't help. Tried different white balances didn't help. Seems to 
prominent at shutter speeds between 1/48 - 1/120. I'm in a 50Hz country and tried both 50Hz and 60Hz but to no avail. Sometimes I don't see the green bar but then it returns, I think this happens moreso after I pan from a tungsten light source over to the fluorescent light but can't say for sure yet. It also happens on both 24fps, 25fps and 60fps... haven't checked 30fps yet.

20160114235853.01_37_44_58.Still006.jpg

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Edit. Just did a black balance but didn't help. Tried different white balances didn't help. Seems to prominent at shutter speeds between 1/48 - 1/120. I'm in a 50Hz country and tried both 50Hz and 60Hz but to no avail. Sometimes I don't see the green bar but then it returns, I think this happens moreso after I pan from a tungsten light source over to the fluorescent light but can't say for sure yet. It also happens on both 24fps, 25fps and 60fps... haven't checked 30fps yet.

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Guest Ebrahim Saadawi

It's a very distinct bar, not really normal at all. A call to Canon should get a repair/replacement and final closure on this issue rather than the forum. Take as many frame grabs as possible in different scenes and crop on it, attach them to a Canon service e-mail/retailer

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is it under ISO 850? I've had some bad results below that.

Hi Aaron. Have you had this 'green stripe' in any of your footage with fluorescent light? Could your check on your camera?

This happens at ISO 100 to 5000. The 'green stripe' disappears when not pointed at the 
fluorescent light.
 

It's a very distinct bar, not really normal at all. A call to Canon should get a repair/replacement and final closure on this issue rather than the forum. Take as many frame grabs as possible in different scenes and crop on it, attach them to a Canon service e-mail/retailer

Hi Ebrahim, good to have your sensibilities here. I was sort of hoping to hear for some folks here that this has been seen before in other cameras and that there is a quick fix. But I will now be heading towards the idea of a Canon Service Centre if the issue becomes too prominent.

Thanks again to everyone for their help here.

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Hi Aaron. Have you had this 'green stripe' in any of your footage with fluorescent light? Could your check on your camera?
This happens at ISO 100 to 5000. The 'green stripe' disappears when not pointed at the 
fluorescent light.
 

Hi Ebrahim, good to have your sensibilities here. I was sort of hoping to hear for some folks here that this has been seen before in other cameras and that there is a quick fix. But I will now be heading towards the idea of a Canon Service Centre if the issue becomes too prominent.
Thanks again to everyone for their help here.

I will try on mine. What are you settings?

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Hi Aaron. Thanks for the offer to test.

It's very subtle in the viewfinder and OLED. Always when the image is is slightly underexposed. Always seen as a horizontal continuation of the fluorescent tube light. Most prominent at shutter speeds between 1/48 - 1/120. I'm in a 50Hz country and tried both 50Hz and 60Hz but to no avail. Sometimes I don't see the 'green stripe' after panning away from the light but then it returns after a few seconds. It can be seen in 24fps, 25fps, 30fps and 60fps. Black balance but didn't help. Tried different white balances didn't help. I've removed the lens protection filer and still there so it's not a reflection.

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Weird. It looks too clean of a line to be optical to me. Have you tried adding filters and flags/hoods to see if that changes anything? Perhaps also using the internal ND's? If this changes things it might indicate that it is an optical issue I guess.

It's clearly caused by the blown light areas (the two guys' heads on the bus in the other thread are crazy). If it's natural light coming in the bus window it's not flicker that's the problem. My guess would be that this is a processing issue of some sort. The line just looks too clean and uniformly horizontal to be flaring to me. I don't know what you can tweak on the C100II - I'd try turning off/down any auto functions (e.g. noise reduction) to see if that changes things. Are there any auto DR settings?

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