Elpeos Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hi there,I'm using the Samsung NX1 + 16-50S lens for a while now for my video productions.Im quite happy with the image, But i can't get really used to the focussing... I'm now working on my second project with interviews and it seems i can't rely on the white focus-assist stripes when manual focussing. It happend more than once that objects or faces where completely out of focus when i checked them on my computer, while when filming it tells me it's in focus.Auto focus is not an option because it's hunting.I know the best option would be an external monitor, but i was wondering if somebody did experience the same issue and if it might be a firmware thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sekhar Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I've found the focus peaking to be pretty accurate with the 16-50, though it can be a bit tricky at the wide end since so many parts of the frame show the peaking. I generally have to go back/forth till the peaking is maximum at the point I want.Also, hunting has reduced quite a bit with the latest firmware update. I covered an event a few weeks back, and it held pretty steady. Do you have the latest update? Elpeos 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NX1user Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I haven't had that problem with my 16-50 S. Maybe try adjusting the peaking strength, I have mine set on high.Also, the focus peaking isn't stripes, the stripes are for exposure. Focus peaking is outlines around objects or where dark areas meet light areas. I switched my focus peaking to red so I wouldn't confuse it with the white stripes of the exposure function. Elpeos, Sekhar and TheRenaissanceMan 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Carter Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I've had a lot of trouble with focus peaking on DSLRs… maybe it's the aliasing or something, but the peaking on my external monitor says "everything's in focus" when it's not (I use a Marshall 5") I know that some of the SmallHD models have more advanced peaking which can be adjusted though.I've gotten used to using the camera LCD for framing and set the external to pixel-to-pixel (zoomed in) and also sometimes add peaking. Much more reliable for me, and the little monitor doesn't add a lot of weight to the setup.When I have the time on set, I usually use, say a 21" HDTV on a wheeled stand as another monitor source. That will really show you what's going on focus wise. Elpeos 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpeos Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 I haven't had that problem with my 16-50 S. Maybe try adjusting the peaking strength, I have mine set on high.Also, the focus peaking isn't stripes, the stripes are for exposure. Focus peaking is outlines around objects or where dark areas meet light areas. I switched my focus peaking to red so I wouldn't confuse it with the white stripes of the exposure function.Oh man, thanks, i will try out to change the peaking to red, let's see if that makes a difference! I've found the focus peaking to be pretty accurate with the 16-50, though it can be a bit tricky at the wide end since so many parts of the frame show the peaking. I generally have to go back/forth till the peaking is maximum at the point I want.Also, hunting has reduced quite a bit with the latest firmware update. I covered an event a few weeks back, and it held pretty steady. Do you have the latest update?It is indeed the wide ends where the problem accures. I have the latest firmware but did not tried the AF yet, i'll give it a try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugela Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 {Please ignore the "quote" form NX1user - the board reply function is bugged and wont let me get rid of it for a few hours no matter who I reply to}For manual focusing enter photo mode to use peaking along with X5 or X8 magnification. If you try to use peaking in video mode you don't get magnification, you get the entire screen. And since it is using contrast boundaries at a crude level when doing that, a lot of things show up as focused when they are not. My RX100M3 has the same problem...if you want accurate manual focusing for video you have to do it in photo mode and simple start recording when you are ready (without going into video mode).The workflow is (1) shutter press to enter photo mode; (2) use X5/X8 magnification with peaking to get the lens focused; (3) enter video preview mode if you need to reformat; (4) start recording. You can skip (3) and just start recording if you know your subject is framed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpeos Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 {Please ignore the "quote" form NX1user - the board reply function is bugged and wont let me get rid of it for a few hours no matter who I reply to}For manual focusing enter photo mode to use peaking along with X5 or X8 magnification. If you try to use peaking in video mode you don't get magnification, you get the entire screen. And since it is using contrast boundaries at a crude level when doing that, a lot of things show up as focused when they are not. My RX100M3 has the same problem...if you want accurate manual focusing for video you have to do it in photo mode and simple start recording when you are ready (without going into video mode).The workflow is (1) shutter press to enter photo mode; (2) use X5/X8 magnification with peaking to get the lens focused; (3) enter video preview mode if you need to reformat; (4) start recording. You can skip (3) and just start recording if you know your subject is framed.Thanks man! It indeed might be the best option. It's just not ideal when focussing during a interview when a person is moving alot, but i think i can live with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sekhar Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 {Please ignore the "quote" form NX1user - the board reply function is bugged and wont let me get rid of it for a few hours no matter who I reply to}For manual focusing enter photo mode to use peaking along with X5 or X8 magnification. If you try to use peaking in video mode you don't get magnification, you get the entire screen. And since it is using contrast boundaries at a crude level when doing that, a lot of things show up as focused when they are not. My RX100M3 has the same problem...if you want accurate manual focusing for video you have to do it in photo mode and simple start recording when you are ready (without going into video mode).The workflow is (1) shutter press to enter photo mode; (2) use X5/X8 magnification with peaking to get the lens focused; (3) enter video preview mode if you need to reformat; (4) start recording. You can skip (3) and just start recording if you know your subject is framed.Yes, focusing in photo mode is fine, but the real value of peaking IMO is in video mode as people move in the scene and you need to continuously re-focus. Once you have say the face in focus (like you suggested, using magnification in photo mode), it shouldn't be too hard to maintain the focus though, even with the peaking without magnification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xavier Plagaro Mussard Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Big sensor and a lot of resolution makes pulling focus hard!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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