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Panasonic GH2 hacked Moon Trial 5 hack, shot in 1080p HBR mode 25 fps (~ 60Mbps) Standard profile -2-2-2-2 Panasonic 14-42mm kitlens, OIS on. Looks like there are some dropped frames in the GH2 footage, did use a Sandisk 95MB/s card though... Panasonic G6 AVCHD 1080p 25 fps (24Mbps) Standard profile -5-5-5-5 Panasonic 14-42mm kitlens, OIS on. Everything shot with the same fixed white balance at 1/50s, various apertures but same on both camera's at all times. My first impressions: The G6 looks better to me. Better shadow detail and a bit more detail in the highlights. Probably due to flatter picture. The G6 shares the picture styles with the GH3, so no smooth like on the GH2. Kept both camera's on standard to keep it as close as possible. Everything dialed down maximum. Less noise at high iso's, less banding. Couldn't detect any moire. Looks a tad less sharp than (hacked) GH2, but that could be up to the sharpening at -5. With some sharpening probably same detail level. Rolling shutter looks the same to me. Although the G6 is a bit smaller I actually prefer the grip to the GH2. It holds very nicely. The lcd is much much better. The color cast on the GH2 screen is horrible. The G6 looks pretty natural and true to the output. Funny thing: the viewfinder looks quite smaller to me.

Im a novice filmmaker and I've been following websites like EOSHD, reading blogs like Philip Blooms and generally for the last 6-8 months researching camera gear while I have been saving up enough to buy my own gear and not just borrow friends. I am looking to spend about $1500 at first. I love video and intend to shoot more, but I also shoot a lot of stills as well and that is obviously where my problems start. I would be very happy to buy a G6 or a used GH3 for video as I know these will outclass almost anything at that price range for video. Add a bunch of old nikkor primes and id be set. But I know stills and the DOF id get with the mft mount is nothing like that of a APS-C or FF nikon or canon. THE SONY A7s is amazing and if i could afford one I'd get it in a heartbeat, it retails at 3300 NZD here in NZ so its ridiculously out of my price range. Im looking to go second hand as it'll mean i can buy more lenses and such. Ive been looking at used 7D and D7100 bodies as both sit between 700-800 used meaning i could easily pick up a 50mm 1.8 prime, a 17-50 sigma or tamron 2.8 and maybe a telephoto lens for stills. Any suggestions or help I don't know what else to read or look at but I know what I buy now will influence my decisions and I'm not sure what to invest in. Also side note; if I purchase a 7D i will be shooting near exclusively with ML.

Testing out lenses with the Iscorama 36 wide open. I really want that separation from the background. It's easy now with the Metabones Speedbooster EF. There is something to be said about full frame lenses used with the Speedbooster vs micro 4/3rds native lenses. Also the Iscorama is the sharpest of the anamorphic adapters, although there are still some lenses that don't do well wide open. Shot on a GH4 4K (before v2.0 firmware, 16:9). Iscorama minimum distance is around 6 feet, half that with the Tokina +0.4 diopter.

Hi guys, I've been a lurker in the forums for quite some time now, but this is my initial post. I received my GH4 yesterday and have been playing with different setups. This is the best so far. Regular shoulder-rig with cage. A Røde shotgun mic with pistol grip attached to a super clamp which is attached to the cage. Sounds like a bad idea, but works wonderfully, and are easy to detach. There is no wiggle or instability. The Røde is connected to the Zoom H4N which is connected to the Panasonic. I've had great results so far with my testing and its hard to tell the difference between the GH4 Audio and the H4N recording. You can of course record audio with the recorder and have great referance audio in the GH4. Works really good when you don't have a designated audio-guy. // Johannes

I recently shot a music video with the GH4(in 4k) and GH2(1080) all the footage looks really good in preview playback but I notice a Gamma change with the .mov GH4 files if I open in FCP or VLC? I've had this problem with RED files and I just continued editing with the darkened gamma change because the files seem to correct themselves upon export. With that said I have a couple questions with how I should continue with this project or if there is a better way. My workflow plan right now is to Transcode first all of AVCHD GH2 files with 5dToRGB to PRORES 422HQ After that I'll import the PRORES files into FCP and drag a clip to the timeline and match the sequence settings to the clip because the final deliverable will be in 1080. My question is with the 4k footage and if this workflow makes sense? Should I import the .mov files directly into the 1080 sequence? or should I transcode the .mov files to 4K PRORES? I know importing the .mov files will slow me down because I'll have to constantly render but I don't want to lose image quality in conversion. My concern is the gamma will change and I wont know the true image quality until after I export. I just want to keep the images looking like they are. What would be some of your workflows when working with the same type media?

This is a promotional reel I've just made for the small videography business I'm currently setting up (one-man-band doing local community organisations, weddings etc). Everything in it was shot on low-end/cheap cameras, several of which have been discussed and compared extensively on this forum over the last year or two. To boot, other than the Tokina 11-16mm all of the lenses were each bought for under $300. After a couple of enquiries about the gear I used for this reel, I've decided to add subtitles to show each camera (and lens) each shot was taken with. Just click the 'CC' button in the Vimeo play bar to turn the subtitles on. I'd welcome feedback on my reel, but this is mainly posted here in the hope it might be of use to others: Sorry the subtitles aren't synched perfectly to each edit (it's not easy with Amara). You'll work it out though I hope ...

Just a short fashion film I shot during a photoshoot the other day. Its pretty much the first real thing I have shot with my anamorphic lens, mainly due to its lack of run and gun ability, but I found with the 35-70 things worked out pretty smoothly. Never had to swap out lenses and it performs very well. I did not use the new firmware update photo mode. Mostly 48 & 60 fps Let me know what you think?! (Ive got a 15second version on my page too)

I carry around the GM1 in a CaseLogic belt-case. A couple of months ago I dropped it, while in case, turned off, onto a carpeted floor. I couldn't have dropped it more than 3 feet; that is IT WAS ABOUT AS GENTLE A DROP AS I CAN IMAGINE. The shutter stopped working. The GM1 gives that "turn off, turn on" message whenever "silent mode" is OFF. The camera still works in silent shutter mode and video. I sent the camera back to Panasonic hoping for a little mercy but no dice. They wanted $275 to fix it. In short, I would either be VERY CAREFUL if you have a GM1, or not buy it for any situations where the camera is going to get knocked (unless you don't care about the physical shutter). Now I know what trade-offs they made to make a camera so small and light ;)

Hi, Couple of months ago, a photographer (nickname lenuisible) decode the wireless communication protocol between image app on smartphone and GH3 camera http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1. I took these, and adapted to my 13 years old remote control software (originally written in vb6 for casio qv3000). After a couple of days, the software now finds the camera, queries its capabilities, and allows user to control the camera from windows PC. It is a very simple program, you just see the commands (like focus, zoom, exposure, aperture, white balance etc...) and use them. You can also record those settings and play them back later. You can tell the program to repeat those commands. So you can make timelapses by zooming in each shot, or changing the white balance when its dark outside. For examplle you can adjust the focus between objects and then you can set the focus with one click like this: http://www.dijitalakademi.com/P1640788.MP4 You can program complex set of commands and make it replay those (or replay and repeat) I also added liveview from http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1, thanks to lenuisible.. You should just press "Liveview" button. But you have to have java installed in your machine. From the post, "Java RE : download here : http://java.com/en/download/index.jsp Add the java bin directory to your PATH, On a windows machine, the Java bin directory should be : C:Program FilesJavajre7bin" I have a FZ1000 to test it, it works ok, but it should work with all wifi enabled LUmix cameras. So feel free to try it, and let me know how it works. Before you run the software, you should enable wifi from camera, connect the camera either a wifi network, or your pc to your camera. Program should find the camera automatically.. If program gives "no response from camera" then check wifi connection, get closer to the router, try again.. you can download and install it from http://www.dijitalakademi.com/lumixcontrol.zip Screenshot:http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~forums/54696040/62ebbbd324fa4551932accb5bf73f94b

Hi. I just wanted to show of my latest short film STORM. I shot it on the Panasonic Lumix GH4 with Kowa/Bell and Howell Anamorphic Please let me know what you think. //eric

I got a brand new GH4 2 weeks ago from Adorama. The camera has worked perfectly thus far. Tonight I took it out to shoot some Halloween festivities. After taking a couple photos without any issue, I went to take another and noticed the EVF display was completely pink with a thin blue line (like 1 or 2 pixels wide) running down the left side. I actually snapped a pic with my iPhone: I've tried turning the power off/on, removing/reinserting the battery, removed/attached the lens (I have the Panny/Leica 30 mm 1.7), cycled through all the EVF/LCD display modes, swapped the memory card, switched between every mode, etc. but the EVF is only displaying a solid pink screen with a blue line down the left side. The LCD display works fine. However, if I switch the display mode for the LCD/EVF to auto or just to EVF, the screen is pink. Not sure how this could happen so suddenly. Has anyone else had this issue? Do I just have a bum camera? Having only had it for 2 weeks, I'm still under warranty (though this is the first time I didn't buy an extended warranty!) so hopefully they can just replace it or have it fixed free of charge! Thanks in advance for any info! Dave

Hi, Final call, I'll sell these items on ebay pretty shortly. I am finally ready to give up my Konica Minolta / Sony Alpha ties.. The following lenses are thus for sale (or in various combinations for trade (unlike sale, trades are only in person, Chicago area), in return for Oly 45mm 1.8, Oly 75mm 1.8, Pana 35-100 2.8 - more info below!). I will provide more detail by each lens, but in general, I have tried to set the prices very fairly. I prefer to sell/trade them to people in this community, rather than putting them up on one of the auction sites.. I have tried to include plenty of pictures, but this is the first time photographing equipment, so if you want me to provide better pictures, etc, please feel free to contact me. -- Lens #1 - Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 SP Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens for Sony Minolta AF Digital SLR Cameras Price: $320 - REDUCED to $300 including shipping CONUS Notes: Comes with front/rear cap and lens hood Condition: Overall very good condition, but appears to have a very small cleaning mark(?) on the front element. (looks like in the coating). It is so small I could not get it to show up in pictures of the lens, and it is not visible when using the lens as far as I can tell. It has probably been used less than a dozen times total. Pictures: http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/tosvus/library/Tamron10-24 -- Lens #2 - Tokina AT-X PRO 28-70mm f2.8 for sony minolta α AF (Full Frame compatible) Price: $275 - REDUCED to $255 including shipping CONUS Notes: Comes with front/rear cap and lens hood. This lens is regarded quite highly especially considering the price (which is why I bought it). user rating at dyxum is average 4.59 where 5.00 is max. Condition: Very well built lens, overall very good condition for age. Some very minor cosmetic imperfections on the barrel, and what appears to be a cleaning mark on the rear element (again, looks like in the coating). Also hard to get to show up in pictures. Again, I have not been able to see any problems when using this lens. Probably my favorite lens of the bunch. For the years I owned it, it has been safely stored when not in use. Pictures:http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/tosvus/library/Tokina28-70 -- Lens #3 - Tokina 100-300mm F4 AT-X 340 AF-II (Full Frame compatible) Price: $325 - REDUCED to $305 including shipping CONUS Notes: Comes with front/rear cap and lens hood. This lens is regarded very highly especially considering the price (which is why I bought it). user rating at dyxum is average a whopping 4.88 where 5.00 is max. Condition: Very well built, overall very good condition for age. Some very minor cosmetic imperfections on the barrel from normal use. Optics look great as far as I can tell. For the years I owned it, it has been safely stored when not in use. One thing to note; I have only used AF with this on the Minolta 5D and occasionally it would hunt excessively for focus. I believe this is a common trait (not fault) of these zooms, and may have been more noticeable on my lower end camera, than on other cameras as well. Pictures: http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/tosvus/library/Tokina100-300 -- Bonus: If anyone buys two or all three of the lenses, I will throw in my trusted old Konica Minolta 5D dslr with 18-70 kit lens. It has seen some use and cosmetically only in ok to good shape, but works well. It was pretty much the last dslr that Konica Minolta made, so while it has IBIS (which is a neat feature), there is no live-view or video-recording. Still if you have someone in the family who wants to start taking pictures, or as a second/third camera, it's definitely nice. Also comes with a Extreme III 2GB compactflash, extra battery, neck band and lens cap. As, mentioned, free if you buy 2 or 3 lenses! Pictures:http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/tosvus/library/KM5D -- Last item: Panasonic HDC-SX5P/PC camcorder. Price: $100 including shipping CONUS Notes: 1080i video recording to sdcards or mini-dvd. Comes with battery, charger and manual (plus possibly other accessories like av-cables). Condition: I would have to say this is in excellent condition. Probably used only a 10-15 times and stored carefully in between. Pictures:http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/tosvus/library/PanaCamcorder -- Payment accepted •Regular PayPal (fee included in price) -- Shipping method USPS Priority Mail (limited to CONUS) -- Shipping charge Included in asking price -- Handling time 2 business days -- Additional -Either Sale or Trade. -Sale - Open to Reasonable offers. If you live in Chicago area and can meet+pay cash, we can definitely figure out a discount -Trade only in person, Chicago-area, as I am not sure of a good way to do this remotely. -Trade options: ---1 (one) of my lenses for a (preferably black) Olympus 45mm 1.8 mft mount prime ---2 (two) of my lenses for a (preferably black) Olympus 75mm 1.8 mft mount prime ---ALL of the equipment listed (3 lenses, camera, camcorder) for a Panasonic pro 35-100mm 2.8 mft zoom. (No other trades are of interest).

A black & white test in slow motion of dancers on a parisian rooftop.

204 grams and 21mm thick http://www.designboom.com/technology/panasonic-cm1-android-smartphone-1-inch-sensor-leica-lens-09-16-2014/ onder if it's Bendy? Cheaper than a 7DII? While your over at DesignBoom, take a look at the 41MP Phone Thingy http://www.designboom.com/technology/relonch-camera-print-quality-iphone-photos-09-19-2014/

Beautiful image but the price not so beautiful.

"I am 99% sure the next new Panasonic Micro Four Thirds camera will be a new GM2 with built-in EVF. It will be the world’s most compact system camera with built-in evf. And I am yet not 100% sure about that but one anonymous source said it has 4K video recording too! It will likely cost more than the current GM1 which sells for $748 with lens at Amazon or with $100 discount as Open Box at Samys. This will be the only new MFT camera coming from Panasonic. There will be also a Four Thirds sensor fixed lens camera (specs yet not known)." This post has the 43rumors "FT5" classification (meaning 81-99% chance that the rumors are correct). http://www.43rumors.com/ft5-panasonic-will-launch-a-new-gm2-with-built-in-evf/ This might become a very interesting camera...

Canon cameras sell very well because they make people look great by creating very pleasing skintones. Apparently for technical reasons (silicon sensors, etc.), Canon makes skintones look great at the expense of color accuracy. ARRI is the undisputed* King of Color Science and reading about how to make a C300 somewhat match an Alexa may be helpful in setting up new cameras such as the GH4 and A7S to produce more pleasing skintones (at the expense of color accuracy): http://provideocoalition.com/aadams/story/color-matching-a-canon-c300-to-an-arri-alexa Art noted that digital cameras do the best in daylight (~5500K) due to sensor response to blue. While I too have noticed that Sony, for example, does much better in sunlight, I've found that cameras also do well in Tungsten (~3200K). While Tungsten doesn't have much blue, it is a continuous spectrum light, and that I believe is the most important issue. Cameras have the most trouble in mixed light (fluorescent + incandescent + LED, etc.) or light sources with large gaps in the spectrum (some fluorescent and many LED lights). I had no idea what kind of light this was, however AWB with the A7S wasn't too far off (minor WB adjust in post: still a bit magenta but that's the look I wanted): In the Art Adams article above, he had to make custom profiles (mostly the special Color Matrix) for each desired color temperature (two provided). This makes it clear that getting pleasing (and/or accurate) color for a wide variety of color temperatures and light sources is a very challenging technical problem. Face/skintone detection is one way manufacturers try to deal with the problem (regardless of race, all skintones have similar color properties (along the 'skintone' line on the vectorscope: ). It's not likely there's anything we can do to picture profiles on cameras to improve color performance vs. factory settings for general use. If we tweak colors for a particular WB and light source, it won't be correct for another light source with different spectral properties. Thus, if someone posts a tweaked color profile that changes WB colors or general color matrices, keep in mind those tweaks might not work correctly for your particular situation. * this is the internet, so the likelihood of disputing is much greater than zero. The Sony F35 and F65 can produce great color, and the new RED Dragon and associated color science is looking very good. The camera system most people prefer in terms of color is the ARRI Alexa (now +Amira).

My Panasonic UK saga regarding the GH4 audio issue. 2 weeks ago I called the Panasonic UK service centre to ask them if they were aware of the problem, they said they had a bulletin from Panasonic and were aware of the problem. They suggested I send the camera in for repair with a 7 to 10 day turnaround. As of this morning, 2 weeks later, Panasonic have still not been able to provide them with the part. I have suggested that they replace the camera but Panasonic have said any new cameras in the UK would still have the problem. They are suggesting that the part will not be in the UK for another 2 weeks. The service centre have been good and have tried their best to keep me informed. I do feel that Panasonic UK are seriously letting me down, along with this problem and the fact there is still no 25p from the HDMI on the camera, my advice to anyone in the UK buying the camera for video use would be don't buy until all of these problems are fixed on units in stores.

We shot this music video with my Lumix GX7 after comparing the image quality with other Canon cameras that we had available. Samyang lenses were used with a EF adapter.

Hello! I recently picked up a GH3 and am wondering what lens setup to purchase. I have done some research and am thinking about these two options. 1. Metabones Speedbooster with a Sigma 30mm 1.4 II (Nikon Mount) as I had the old Sigma 30mm 1.4 on my 550D and loved it! 2. Voigtlander 25mm f0.95 and the SLR Magic 12mm f1.6. Would love to know what you guys think! Thanks :)

According to the Panasonic manual for the GH4, it is only compatible with SDXC media with a capacity up to 64GB. However, this spec may be incorrect if, for example, 64GB was the highest capacity media available at the time the spec was written and higher capacities simply did not yet exist. Now they do, such as 128GB. Has anyone tried 128GB SDXC UHS speed class 3 cards in a GH4 yet? If so, do they function correctly and does the GH4 recognize and access the entire 128GB? Transcend makes a (relatively) affordable 128GB SDXC UHS speed class 3 card, and since we are still waiting for the "official" Panasonic 64GB card, I was hoping the Transcend 128GB media was a fully functional alternative. (Transcend also makes a 64GB version, I'm curious specifically about the 128GB capacity.) Thanks, all!

Hi there, I've got my pennies together and I'm going to pick up a GH4 next week, and I even bought the EOSHD shooters guide. Problem... This GH4 audio buzzing I keep hearing about. How bad is it really? Lets say I bought a juice box to have with my GH4, and I was using it to record sound from radio mics from interviews/atmos though my GH4. Are my interview audio going to be ruined? Is it that noticeable or is it a tiny little sound issue? I'm going to be using my camera for short films but also for filming documentary work, and I don't want to have to use a separate recorder and then sync in Avid. I need to know that the sound is going to be ok, if I end up making a feature documentary but need to go back to the original rushes from when I was starting out I need to know I can go back and the audio will be useable. Anyone have any experience of this? Any one have any examples of it that you can hear on footage of someone talking?

I am curious why none have discussed the GH4 B&H Webcast, which I thought was pretty interesting, highlighting a few things that were either in doubt, or were things that users thought, needed to be addressed: 1. Most people recording 96fps on the GH4, found the video rather soft. Panasonic (Matt Frazer) explained that one must set the shutter speed to 1/200, so that they get the right kind of sharpness for the image. 2. In the GH3, people could switch between the Shotgun and Stereo mic pickup pattern (on the Panasonic DMW-MS2), and, apparently, now, in the GH4, even the angle of pick up, for the shotgun can be adjusted, making it narrower or wider. And, also, apparently, it can be set, to self-adjust with a zoom lens, depending upon the amount of zoom employed. I think, on paper atleast, this feature seems amazing. 3. Also, there was a reporting of noise by many people, saying, that, there was a strange buzzing noise, coming from the GH4, at all settings. Panasonic explained this in the Live Webcast, saying, that this was due to the fact, that most plus in 3.5mm jack mics are not grounding out correctly, which is apparently due to the Tip, Ring, Ring, Sleeve Adaptor on Panasonic Mics vs Tip, Ring, Sleeve Adaptor on most other mics. They explained, that they understood that the mics are not grounding properly, and their engineers are working to resolve this issue now. Did anyone else notice anything else extra, which wasn't already discussed, about the GH4.