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Found 8 results

  1. Earlier in anamorphic forum I asked advice for export options for my first anamorphic material shot with GH4. So here is the result from my shooting: After encoding to Vimeo, material looks a bit darker. Don't know why. Exported master file isn't as dark. Maybe it is because the h.264 encoding? Please comment and share if you like, thanks! :)
  2. Hi there anamorphic shooters! I need someone to explain me as clearly as possible how am I going to get right aspect ratio and best result out from Premiere Pro after editing some anamorphic material. Sory if this is stupid question but I am a bit lost all the settings and aspectratios etc. So, I bought Iscomorphot 8/1.5x adapter. Shot with GH4 and now I have edited my video and would like to export it. I have on timeline material that is shot in 1080p and 4k (yes, that was my mistake. Wanted to shoot all 4k but first day shootings came back in 1080p thought I was shooting 4k) 4k is shot in 3840x2160 (after my 1080p mistake thought it would be easier to get these two format to match in edit.) I have bought Andrew's great anamorphic shooters quide but still after reading it I am bit confused. If I now want to export best quality anamorphic video out from my Premiere for web use: 1. Just output 1920x820 (for 2.66:1 ratio) resolution from Premiere? 2. Should I first export the 4k files and bring them back in right resolution (1920x820) and after that render everything out again? Sorry for quite long text. But hope someone could help me with this, thanks! Ps. If I shoot more anamorphic videos in future, should I use GH4 4k UHD (3840x2160) or 4kC (4096x2160)?
  3. http://vimeo.com/70264199   I had all but given up on ever finding the perfect 8mm anamorphic lens, but I recently got my hands on what I think is the most rare anamorphic lens that I have ever owned -- the Zeiss Ikon Anamorphot 22/1.5x. It is almost impossible to find any information on this lens. I could not find any pictures of the lens, nor any test footage. In fact, the only reason that I knew that it existed was a tip from anamorphic Godfather Kostas Petsas, who also has one. He compares his Ikon to the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x.   Like the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x, it's an 8mm "baby" lens that is fully rack-focusable. The helicoid is smooth and has a very manageable throw, so focusing is no problem at all as you will see in the test video above. The slightly wider diameter actually makes the lens easier to focus the baby Isco, and of course it is much more focus-friendly than the strenuous focus throw of the Iscorama.     It's a little bigger than the Iscomorphot 1.5x (front filter thread is about 43mm, and rear diameter is about 32mm) but still much smaller and lighter than the Iscomorphot 2x or the Iscorama. It's nice not to have to add in a support system to hold the weight of the additional lens. Coupled with a DSLR, a taking lens with a silver finish and a silver clamp from Redstan, this could be a great stealth anamorphic setup.   I think that perhaps the most substantial difference between the Ikon and the Iscomorphot is that the Ikon is usable when the taking lens is wide open (at least at f/1.8). Though it is not razor sharp like the Iscorama, I don't see a limitation here.    The minimum focus distance is impressive. I've been able to focus as close as 22" wide open without any diopters.   I haven't really put it through the paces yet, but from what I've seen, the lens has some nice, understated character. It's a lot less smeary than some of the 8mm anamorphics that I have used. The flares are thinly stretched blue ovals, similar to my Moller 32/2x (but I think that I may like the Zeiss flares even more).     I have been able to use it with my FS100 with a 50mm lens, which is usually my go-to lens when I first get an anamorphic lens. I'll have to test it to see if I can get away with using a wider taking lens.   I am excited about this lens. It is the easiest, simplest anamorphic lens that I have ever used and the image is very pleasing. I think that this is a winner. If anyone else has one, I'd love to compare notes.
  4. I recently shot a teaser video for a feature film I'm developing. I'm aiming for a slightly analog look so I've been using AIS Nikkor lenses with the Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x adapter lens mounted to them. The Bolex has a 39mm filter thread on the back, so I'm able to attach it with a simple 39mm to 52mm ring. However, the only way I can align the anamorphic lens with this adapter is by keeping the filter thread screwed slightly loose, and rotating it to the right alignment, then sticking it in place with a thin strip of tape.   This works alright, but I'd like to figure out something more stable for purpose of a feature film. I've looked fairly extensively at the clamps available online, but I can't find anything (Redstan or otherwise) that is specifically tailored to fit the somewhat atypically shallow rear element of this lens, and I wondered if anybody else has had experience with this? I just need a solution that won't add a very substantial amount of length/vignetting to the lens, and will allow me to lock its alignment down. The tape solution results in slight, noticeable shifting around every time we refocus the lens.   Thank you!   Here's the teaser, shot it on an NEX-5n with the aforementioned lenses. Looking into filming the feature on a C300 or a Scarlet.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgqLqHZk3-A
  5. Anyone know anything about this lens?    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sankyoscope-Anamorphic-1-5X-8mm-movie-lens-Ichizuka-Optical-1960s-/200906477445?pt=UK_Photography_VintagePhotography_VintagePhotoAccessories&hash=item2ec6f58f85
  6. Somewhere last year I stumbled upon a lot of Delrama 8 CP 1,5 lenses, made by the Dutch company Old Delft.     A tiny fixed focus 1,5x anamorphic for 8mm camera's. It uses curved prisms and mirrors instead of cylincrical lenses. I bought them with some diy projects in mind...   Sadly, the Delrama's are in pretty bad shape, as you can see. It isn't fungus, it is the silver on the mirrors that is detoiriated. You can't clean it, you'd have to redamp the mirrors to fix it. I never really looked into it, since it seems an expensive process. So they have been lying around here for a while... Today I decided to experiment a bit more with them. The Delrama's have a screw mount that is exactly the same size as a C-mount lens. I don't have any lenses where I can fit it onto directly, but since it's so small and light, I decided to sacrifice a simple plastic lens cap from one of my Minolta's. I cut a hole into it, just large enough to fit the filter thread. It holds the Delrama pretty well.     On the last picture it is attached to my Minolta 58mm f/1.4. It seems to need a pretty long lens. With the 58mm and the GH2 it works fine, but on my 35mm it's like looking trough a tunnel.   I also 'modified' a Computar 25mm f/1.8 C-mount lens. I superglued a C-mount extension ring to the inner part of the lens barrel (that doesn't move while focusing). I loosely screw the Delrama on top of that, align it and then tighten it with the little clamp.     This results in a tiny anamorphic combination, but it only works in EXTC. Also, I think I'll have to modify the Computar lens, since it doesn't quite focus to infinity. It's a funny little combination though.   I took the Anamorphic Lens Cap and the Computar Anamorphic out for some test shots:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfV0xHHhQUU   In hindsight I should have used a profile with more contrast, this was all shot at smooth -2-2-2-2. The damaged Delrama's probably make the image even flatter. But the light was already pretty flat.   I have no idea how it would compare to a Delrama in pristine conditions, but even with the damaged mirrors these liltle ones still look usable in some way. It is nice to be able to rack focus them.   I'm not sure what the minimum focus distance is. I read 4 meters somewhere, but I think it's closer to 2 meters. I also tried holding some diopters in front of the lens, with a +1 diopter I could focus at 0,5 meters.
  7. Hi everyone    I´m a young video director from Madrid-spain, (www.MauriDGaliano.com)   I want to share with this great community my passion for  vintage Anamorphic Lenses.   I´ve been reading this forum a lot of times, but is the first time that i write something.   Allow me the honor to share my last Anamorphic video, a Drum cover for the Artist "Deivhook",the best Drummer in Spain.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13zPG1ebHlo     I shoot this video with my basic set: Panasonic GH2 Flowmotion v2.2 + fd50mm 1.8 + Bolex Anamorphot 16/32 1.5x.   The Bolex is the little girl of all my lenses...the "jewel of the crown",   The  rare 1.5x ratio suits perfect for almost everything, and its super-easy to make the double focus with it, in this video theres no flares, but this lens have the best flares  i´ve seen. Flare sooo easy, blue-deeply flares like Panavision C series. Mindblowing.   Now i have a clamp, from VidAtlantic,but im interested in upgrade to Redstan, i´ve seen that redstan have a custom Clamp for the little brother of my lens, the 8/19 1.5x, And im asking myself if he has one custom clamp for my lens.   Someone can give me the contact of Redstan?   I hope that you enjoy the video!   If someone have a question about the lens, ask me!   PD: I already knows that i suck writing in english, sorry!
  8. Many people find that a 2x (3.55:1) aspect ratio is just too narrow for their liking. The good news is that if you are using a 2x lens and you have a DP4 monitor, you can compose and shoot in 1.5x. This allows us to enjoy all the benefits of 2x glass (greater availability, lower prices, more dramatically stretched bokeh) with none of the headache. Here's how to do it:[list=1] [*]Choose a Preset number so that you don't have to make these adjustments every time (just scroll back to the Preset). [*]Under the [i]Advanced Menu[/i], go to [i]Scale[/i] and select [i]2.35:1[/i]. [*]Go to [i]Custom Scale[/i] and input the following values: [/list] [indent=1]HSTART: 706[/indent] [indent=1]HSIZE: 94[/indent] [indent=1]VSTART: 500[/indent] [indent=1]VSIZE: 600[/indent] Now you are set to monitor in 1.5x. I have created an Apple Compressor setting that I just drag-and-drop onto incoming footage that squeezes AND crops the footage to 1.5x before I even begin my edit. It helps keep my render time down and I don't even have to deal with the trimmed footage area if I don't want to. These values [i]may[/i] also work on the DP6, but I haven't tried it.
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