Rhood
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Posts posted by Rhood
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Yes indeed. I'm going with option 1.
Any specialists out here with recommendations?
I'm thinking of buying older Mac mini as a NAS.
At Location B (which is offsite, somewhere at a family members house) it's meant solely as a back-up.
At Location A it's meant as a back-up, but I might also look through files and copy them to a work drive. If it can be a work drive, even better but I think that's not possible on a low budget.
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Ok, I've been reading very bad reviews on quasi all kinds of cloud storage.
I thought everybody used cloud storage, maybe they don't know the risks.
That means there are two options left.
1. NAS at home and NAS at family member's house that I can access from my home.2. Continue with hooked up physical drive's, which I mirror to one another. But one (or two) of them are at family member's house and/or deposit box.
Option 2 is very hard to keep track of and takes a lot of discipline. But apart from that is pretty simple...
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8 hours ago, Marcio Kabke Pinheiro said:
I use iDrive. Ok upload speed, have the option to backup both to a external drive and the cloud.
Thanks, that's the one I'm considering now. I read they had faster speeds than others.
5 hours ago, newfoundmass said:The main problem with cloud storage I've had is that every company eventually either decreases their offerings or drastically raises their prices. You're kind of at the mercy of whatever company you go with.
About 10 years ago I had all my stuff backed up to a service called Bitcasa. What it provided then would be considered incredible today. For like $99/year you would get unlimited storage, and all these bells and whistles. I had terabytes of data on there when they raised the price to $999/year.
I moved my data to Amazon Drive. That worked fine for a few years, until they too raised the price and eventually offered only unlimited storage for photos.
After hopping around from service to service I just decided to create back ups on hard drives and store them in a fire proof safe. Once I set up my office I'll build a NAS, but things are working okay right now especially since I have gigabit fiber internet, so if I need to share something I can upload it to Google Drive within an hour.
That's exactly one of my other concerns.
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Hi Anaconda,
thank you for your input.
The thing is, currently I only have one location.
So if I get a NAS, it would be at the same location as my other physical drives.
I think the only solution to this is a cloud service, unless I'm mistaken? -
Hi all,
what are you all using as a cloud storage service.
Anybody using it as a permanent back-up or has permanent back-up solution?Been looking into Backblaze, but I'm not sure if I'm convinced. What holds me back is that it makes a back-up of entire system, while I actually would like to choose. Also apparently the upload speed is very low.
Yes, I also use physical hard drives.Currently need at least 4tb.
Thoughts?
What do you use? What do you recommend? -
11 hours ago, IronFilm said:
No.
(plus for focus pulling you'll usually want to use SDI wireless/monitors, otherwise the delay becomes too much via HDMI)
Would a HDMI to SDI converter solve this issue?
So1. HDMI Camera > HDMI Converter SDI > Wireless SDI Transmitter
Or
2. HDMI Camera > HDMI Monitor > HDMI Converter SDI > Wireless SDI Transmitter
Or
3. HDMI Camera > HDMI Monitor & Converter SDI > Wireless SDI Transmitter -
10 hours ago, PPNS said:
it costs about 120 euros a day here to rent a terradek bolt
Well I meant as a buying option.
I know renting would be well below 500 a day 🙂 -
Is there any HDMI transmitter below 500 that is good enough for focus pulling?
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Slightly off topic.
But how do the Viltrox XF lenses compare to the Sigma XF lenses and Fuji XF lenses regarding the AF performance?
Especially asking AF performance for video. I sometimes use AF for slow motion detail shots, following/tracking shots. So not asking for talking heads, Youtube or such.
Interested in these focal lenghts13mm f1.4 vs Fuji 16mm f1.4
23mm f1.4 (viltrox vs old Fuji)
56mm f1.4 vs Fuji 56 f1.2 old version
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Any interesting deals from European shops this Black Friday weekend?
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Also curious what others have on their list, especially for deals in Europe.
Affinity Photo 2, Designer 2 and Publisher 2 is on my list as well. Although I only have use for Affinity Photo 2...
Might go for one of the Aputure deals.
Also looking at a new iPhone (refurbished). -
On 11/10/2022 at 3:52 AM, scotchtape said:
The cheapest models lack usability features for work and have questionable light quality - for example on your first link - no display on the unit, no control on the unit itself. Remote also has no display. Not to mention no color metrics for product. Also very old design with open front for noisy airflow if the fan is not quiet.
The other Colbor stuff looks ok if you need RGB, but are low output. We are talking about getting high quality powerful lights for cheap in this thread 😄
The ZYSB is magenta initially (good because they green up over time). I think the meter said around +1 green, so not great, but for me it's not the end of the world.
Oops!
You clearly have more Aliexpress experience than me 😂The Colbor also has bi-color and single color fixtures. The connecting matrix design is what makes it interesting.
You can create a led brute or dino light with these. I did see a picture with each fixture having a separate cable, that's a lot of cabling. They should make a single (bigger) power supply where you can hookup your matrix to, still need cables for each fixture, but only one power cable.
Also a shame that you can't use the reflector in matrix. That would increase output significantly.On 11/9/2022 at 5:19 PM, Kisaha said:I just received today the CL60R. So far I was impressed by the build quality, the output, the very friendly buttons placement (and existance!), the app, the size, the weight, the price, the original design and also the silly box/case that came with.
Seems like a company that's serious about their stuff. I also read that they have an EU office and check "locally" warranty claims..
Unfortunately it didn't work with a power bank I have. It turns on, but switches after half a second with a 65w. Maybe it needs an 80w..
First impressions positive. Still have to pass the test of time.
I got it as a hair light and for the effects, in case I need them, so I wanted it extra portable.
Thanks for chiming in Kisaha!
Do you know if they use the RGB to combine and form whitepoint?
How is the output of the colors? Is each color bright and saturated?
Are these flicker free at high speed recording? -
On 11/9/2022 at 2:03 PM, Django said:
Yes and no imo. XT5 has a 1.22x crop for all its extra resolution and oversampled modes. Uses pixel-binning in several modes. It has superior RS. No ProRes. No 4K120p. And there is overheating limitations due to the smaller body.
XH2S with its stacked sensor is an actual XT3/XT4/XT5 on steroids with super fast read-out allowing low RS at 14-bit, faster AF, 40fps with no blackout, 4K120p, 6.2K Open Gate, ProRes...
But more importantly concerning OPs EVF top issue, XH2S offers a much more comfortable:
5.76M dot OLED viewfinder with 0.8x magnification and up to 120fps refresh
Yes the XH2S is very interesting. Although I wouldn't buy it as a trashcam.
If I buy the XH2S it would make my XT3 my carry around.
But not sure if it's smart to invest into this right now.
I've been looking around and found some interesting models to replace my 550D, Fuji XM1, Fuji XA10, Fuji XA7. Any user experiences? Used prices vary a lot, sometimes comes into XE2S or XE3 territory. -
And did you check if they are flicker free on higher frame rates?
I searched a bit on Aliexpress.
I might have found something crazy cheap that you want to try out.
Around 100 euro for 300W
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003912590090.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.3.19247ecb89I2Jn&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=9da7394c-e478-4d61-b54d-5f1fac4e4127&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:9da7394c-e478-4d61-b54d-5f1fac4e4127,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238111%231996&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000027451792889"%2C"sceneId"%3A"30050"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!EUR!125.47!84.06!!!!!%402101f6b116679930580155327ebaba!12000027451792889!recAlso those Colbor CL60 and 100's seem cool. They can be hooked up to each other in a matrix/array.
Does anybody know if these pass power to each other? Or does each single fixture need to be plugged in? That's a lot of cables...
Link to the Colbor CL60R RGB version
https://www.colborlight.com/products/co-cl60rOther interesting stuff I found on or through Aliexpress
150W, 300W and 500W Airtube / Airpanel led style fixtures 😮
Also seem to make a 650W / 700W COB at around 750
They don't seem like a small brand
http://www.syingfilm.comAlso found a Lightstar Luxed 4 copy
https://namgrip.tv/store/GT-SL04-p357565557
Interesting
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On 10/31/2022 at 4:37 AM, scotchtape said:
For the ZSYB light I only tested at undervolt settings and the readings are good, haven't bothered to do a full test at 300W.
I bought the Yinleader 1000W transformer, it's like $60USD on Amazon. I just plugged it into a wattmeter initially because the output was halved compared to the FS300, I checked with the transformer and it's drawing 300W so all good there. @j_one I'll update when the other light comes in the mail, might be complete trash.
It's this one (can't even search by name, there is no name in the listings and I couldn't find any others lol):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003436322681.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.18031802IdPYPY
The photo says QinYue AR-LX0101, tried to search for reviews etc but found nothing except listings in Thailand. It's $120USD on AE.
The handle mount looks like crap and the remote has no display, but if the light is good it should work in an array for sun fighting power, plus it looks very compact. Sound might be an issue though since the front looks like the old design where there is airflow through the front (yuck). At $120USD it's 1/3 the price of Nanlite FS300 which already was the cheapest "good" 300W LED at launch of $350, now $380USD.
The ZYSB at half price would have been amazing if not for the power issue, I don't know enough about PCB circuits to determine what to replace on the board, if anything. If anyone is interested in helping that would be appreciated because it would be a killer deal on a light for the price... Quiet, powerful, lightweight, remote, cheap (and cheap build quality) but good quality metrics.
I did test the voltage of the DC leads to the COB and they measured at mains voltage, so I'm not sure what the coil transformer on the PCB does. But that probably saves weight since there's no need for a transformer to change the mains voltage for the LED.
Out of curiosity have you tested that cheap 300W light?
That ZYSB seems like a great find, I'm based in EU. Might try it out. Did you check the kelvin and the green/magenta shift as well? -
Any people here who've had lots of different gimbals in their hands?
Especially wondering about the Letus Helix Jr., anybody any user experience? Seems hard to find reviews/experiences on the internet.
How does it compare to the newer gimbals? And in general, how do older gimbals (for instance Ronin M) compare to the newer ones?What if you want to mount the gimbal on for instance a car, are the newer ones better at that?
Can the Letus one be screwed on to something from its platform that it sits on?
Thanks -
On 11/7/2022 at 7:20 AM, kye said:
Have you tried adjusting the EVF diopter? It sounds like yours isn't adjusted properly. My understanding of how to adjust them is to set it so that your eye doesn't have to change focus when looking at the subject directly and looking at the subject through the viewfinder.
These adjustments are super-powerful - my dad wears pretty strong glasses (which obviously aren't compatible with putting your eye right up to the viewfinder) and he's always been able to adjust them to compensate for his vision, so they're at least as powerful as a pair of relatively strong prescription glasses.
Thanks for the tip. I don't wear glasses.
I had thought about the diopter, but didn't know the not focusing looking directly at subject and switching to the viewfinder.
Might go with a recent iPhone at the moment. And maybe next year go for XH2S and have the XT3 as backup and replace my 550D. -
3 hours ago, MrSMW said:
Yep. I just about never use a viewfinder these days and haven't for years.
Stop right there and stick the new 33mm f1.4 on it and et voila, 50mm FF equiv.
It depends on how anyone defines 'Point & Shoot' but superb files out of the XT3, very decent video spec & quality (no IBIS though obviously) and that new lens is reckoned to be a bit of a gem.
With it's tilt screen, I'd call that a P&S.
I hadn't really thought about that 😂
But then I kind of need the new XH2S.
I like having one body (and lenses) in pristine condition for studio & film work, although with film it can get dirty sometimes.
And one body and lens combo for dirty work, the fun thing about my 550D is that I wasn't really worried about it.
By the way it's 50mm on APS that I'm after, so around 75 on FF
Is the Viltrox 50mm any good? Or are the Fuji ones better? I have the 60 macro, I like it for still life. -
Hi all,
I love a viewfinder. I really do.
But after seeing through the viewfinder, my vision gets blurred for a few seconds.
I've been having this for quite a long time now, and it's getting worse.
Does anybody have this too?So now I'm trying to let go of the viewfinder.
I have an XT3 which I use for studio work (and film projects), there it's quite easy to not use the viewfinder.
But I also have a Canon 550D which I still use for point & shoot kind of stuff, not in the compact way that I take it everywhere with me.
More in the sense of filmset, concert, bands, vacation, etc.
I use the 550D viewfinder only, the screen live view is not very useable for me. A small vintage manual focus 50mm f1.4 lens is almost permanently attached to it.So the 550D kind of needs a change...
Any advice, suggestions or thoughts?If you need some parameters
• I like the 550D's grip's form factor style (the XT3 even with small rig's L bracket grip is slightly awkward handling)
• Some articulation in the screen is good
• If it has a pancake lens with autofocus in the 50mm range, that's great (I do like an aperture ring, but that's probably too much to ask)
• I like dedicated buttons, like with the Fuji X range. But I'm open to other stuff.
• Has to be able to shoot RAW (stills), and the RAW format should be supported by Capture One.
• Better low light performance than the 550D now that we're changing.
• Budget, let's say around 500. (flexible)List of things I'm considering
• Fuji XE with a grip attachment (but the 50mm lenses stick out quite a bit, could vintage lens but also quite sticking out)
• Fuji X-Pro with a grip attachment (but the 50mm lenses stick out quite a bit, could vintage lens but also quite sticking out)
• Sigma Quattro seems like nice grip, but the camera seems quite big. Also not sure if C1 supports, and lens mount is sticking out a lot
• A new iPhone with one of those dedicated camera grip things and a (tele)lens attachment. (I actually hate taking pictures with smartphone, but maybe not with these toys)
• Fuji X100 if it had a 50mm f1.8 (or lower) I would have chosen already. -
Aaah
Still not decided on the monitor part.
Is the backlight type important?
Is it stupid to look at the power consumption?
No clue why NEC has double % numbers.
NEC PA301W
10 Bit
30"
2560 x 1600
155W (90W Eco)
P-IPS
CCFL
98% / 107% Adobe RGB
93% / 102% NTSC
100% / 144% sRGB
Around 2011
Around 100 euroBenq PD2700Q
10 Bit
27"
2560x1440
58W (28W Normal)
IPS
LED
Pantone Validated / Technicolor certified
100% Rec.709 & sRGB Color spaces
Around 2016
Around 175 to 190 euro
I know they both have a low price tag, and probably both are ok.
But which is best, or would be your pick? -
Thanks for the huge amount of knowledge @kye
Sorry to re ask my question, but I don't want to wait to long to buy.
Is it bad to buy a used callibrator? Anything that can go wrong with them? A used Xrite eye one pro package going for slightly cheaper than the i1 display you suggested. Eye one pro is quite old though, better to go with more recent models?
I noticed some calibrators can be used to calibrate projector. That can be handy in the future, as we might go for a projector instead of a tv in the living room. -
Thanks for the input.
I had this sort of feeling when I was looking and searching for some reviews.
A similar question as with the monitors. Is it bad to buy a used callibrator? Anything that can go wrong with them? An used i1 pro going for slightly cheaper than the i1 display you suggested. I’m only looking for Xrite as I once heard they are the best.
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12 hours ago, kye said:
I suggest this model of calibrator: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1506566-REG/x_rite_eodisstu_i1display_studio.html
Then buy whatever you can afford with the rest of your budget.
Buying a monitor without it being calibrated is like having a two-year-old adjust all the secret manufacturers monitor parameters and then using it as a colour reference for your work.
Thanks for the advice, I was planning on xritecallibration, but not immediately. You made it more urgent now.
Also saw some used Benq PD2700 monitors, are these better than the NEC talked above?
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I'm looking for a monitor to accompany my M1 Air.
I don't have the budget for a crazy accurate monitor.
Right now I'm using my laptop screen or sometimes I use an iMac 27" from 2019.
A few questions.
Is it stupid to look for used monitors? Is it very bad if they are 6 tot 9 years old?
Are there brands to avoid?
Is it always better to go for a photo or color grading orientated monitor? Or is it better to go for brand? For instance I know Eizo is a very reputable brand.
They have cheaper options available that are not orientated towards photo/color grading.I think I'll set the budget to around 300 max. Do tell (and explain) me if that's too low.
I came across a used NEC PA301W, it seems like a huge beast of a monitor. I can get it for around 150. Seems like a deal?
I know it's quite old though. Any opinions on this?
Thanks!
Tokina ATX 56mm f1.4 vs Fuji XF 50mm f2.0 WR
In: Cameras
Posted
Hello all,
sorry to open a topic for this.
But currently looking for a 50mm prime with good AF performance for video (quick but natural). I have the Fuji 60mm Macro and that one is very bad for video.
Could not find direct comparisons on google.
Anyone who has had their hands on both? Or one of them?
Thanks!