iam_andy

Thank you for your settings, I still enjoy my NX1 more than my A7III for videos.

Keep the topic alive! I this camera is actually still years ahead of most cameras! For the price of $500 on eBay you can have a camera near the quality of an FS7 or a RED!
From what I have read on this post it seems having 3 customer picture wizard profiles makes it appropriate to switch as needed. I have found that moving the Hue to -6 also improves the tone of the image and so I set all 3 Custom Profiles to the same settings (-10 Sharpness, -3 Saturation, -5 Contrast, -6 Hue) except for the RGB sliders. So in bright contrasty light, I may use Custom 1 with the settings of R: .88 , G: .86 , B: .87 to bring down the gain on the sensor (to my basic understanding) and in Higher Dynamic Range Situations, May go to Custom 2 with the boosted settings of R: 1.88, G: 1.86, B:1.87 and Finally I have a Custom 3 profile with R: 1.44 , G: 1.43, B: 1.44. This is a bit more contrasty but still with a wide DR. All of these Settings also are running on 16-235 and Black Level at +15.
The results are pretty amazing just from playing around. Makes me want to find all the NX1s out there and hoard them! 

Hope somebody will come back to bring this camera to the next level. Maybe we can entice someone with some crowd funding.... count me in if we have a person or group willing to do so.

With NX1 last summer in Austria; 
 

It depends on the camera and camera settings (and what look you like) but imo diffusion filters are a key missing ingredient toward a more "organic" look, if that's what you're after. They add an extra layer beyond even using vintage lenses, and imo it's worth combining the two if you want a "cinematic" look rather than a technical one.
I think @Zach Goodwin2 proselytized extensively about them, and while I think he was using stronger grades perhaps than I settled on (don't really remember), I agree they have great value.
That said, most on this forum seem inclined toward sharpening video and generally going for a sharper image than I prefer personally. So it is a matter of taste. I like the Alexa, which is quite soft, and I really like the look of 16mm and late-90s films shot by Richardson and Kaminski, which make heavy use of promist, classic soft, and nets. I think JFK is a beautiful movie.
(And the Alexa is a weird camera. I'm convinced it has an optical diffusion filter in front of the OLPF similar to Tiffen digital diffusion but that the pipeline also applies a slight wide-radius unsharp mask. Which isn't crazy. Film's modulation transfer function curve can exceed 100% mtf and then it drops off to extinction more slowly than digital; so this approach could emulate that. And give the "3d" look people talk about while still making skin smooth. But this is conjecture.)
The issue with black promist (also with classic softs and Hollywood black magic) is that you can see "speckles" in the bokeh, which may or may not be desirable, and at very deep stops sometimes the black dots that mitigate the promist's natural halation come into focus. (Also you need a matte box if you want to use a 4x4 filter, so screw on filters might make more sense depending on if you want to keep your rig small... but 1/4 BPM has a good look. Surprisingly strong, though.)
I find these tests interesting:
 
 
Particularly the latter. It's amazing how close the C300 with 1/4 to 1/2 digital diffusion looks to the Alexa. Imo it's a big improvement, however subtle.
 

OK, so I strongly believe that you can gain an extra whole stop in low light by using method 2. 
Profile settings: color R G B +1.99, contrast -5, Saturation -1, Sharpness -10 (the contrast, saturation & sharpness are to taste but I find the contrast at -5 produces flatter more realistic results).
Once you set the profile you can achieve a similar exposure to standard by using negative -1 exposure compensation. Note how the ISO drops as a result of the negative exposure compensation yet when scenes from standard and this custom profile are compared there do not appear to be any disadvantages just lower noise!
Obviously you will need to adjust exposure compensation for different scenes to protect the whites as much as you probably would in standard exposure but you will  need around an extra stop of negative exposure using this profile..
Next to test externally.

Testing outside using the new profile, it's very overcast here at the moment, I found my self switching between negative 1.0 and 1.3, but compared to the same scene with Picture Wizard off there is more dynamic range. Also there is at least 1 stop more to be gained which could prove invaluable in failing light.
I hope that you test this and share your results. I have not tried adjusting any other settings which I have left at standard. This may also work for the gamma DR profile as well, more tests are needed.
I will be using this profile for the next few weeks just to see if it is reliable.