leslie

c'mon Emanuel... surely you'd help out a fellow cinematographer 😲

yer their pretty good. one of three channels i actually subscribe to.

i have the gopro 9, fairly confident the stabilization is either on or off. I have not seen an option to lower the effect.
One thing to be aware of is when you use the stabilization it cuts into your frame width, depending on how bad the shake is you can lose a bit of real estate. i grabbed the following off a web site because i'm lazy at explaining things. 
But there’s a quirk that’s worth knowing about: when you’re shooting in the Wide field of view, you’ll end up with a slightly cropped imaged and lose some of the image around the edges. With the HERO6 Black, it’s about 5% of the image. With the HERO5 models, even more is cropped–about 10%. And because the Wide FOV is the default, it’s something you might run into often. With newer models with even more aggressive HyperSmooth stabilization, it can use even more of the frame for its stabilization buffer.
Other software stabilization options, like those in Final Cut Pro X and Premiere Pro, do the same thing. That’s because the way they work needs to cannibalize space from the edges of the frames in order to follow the rest of the frame smoothly.
Cropping vs Zoom
The cropping we’re talking about here isn’t technically the same thing as when we talk about cropping with still images in that it’s not actually making the dimensions of the final product smaller.
As an example, without stabilization, the 4K footage comes out of a GoPro with dimensions of 3840×2160. It will come out with exactly the same dimensions when you turn on stabilization.
So what’s actually happening is really a digital zoom, with the camera’s processor interpolating to replace the missing information. In practice, the degradation of the image quality is more theoretical than visual–you really can’t see the difference, although it’s technically there.
Hope that helps.

c'mon Emanuel... surely you'd help out a fellow cinematographer 😲

c'mon Emanuel... surely you'd help out a fellow cinematographer 😲

i think, maybe launching a space shuttle might top your list.  🚀
while stabilized shots isn't the main concern it  cant hurt either.
Short of making something amateurish, which would  in turn add to the size, weight,  ectara,  ectara  of the thing and perhaps not solve the problem. I eliminated the scooter as a mount from the equation  right from the start. Anything bigger than a go pro or  an i phone would probably become  a problem or a missile in short order and the human body already does an amazing job of smoothing things out. Use that instead. 
While i am a fan of the jason bourne movies i'm not really a fan of the action sequences. Its nearly as exhausting to watch as it was to film no doubt. I'm like a couch ninja, ducking and weaving 🙄
Still i think your best option is a  small mechanical stabilizer  it would take a lot of the abuse and when it hits the limits not crash like a 3 axis motor would. I made a pendulum gopro mount for my kite. You know those things that predate drones. that did ok to smooth out the fluctuations when flying a kite.  
One last thought maybe get small pneumatic tires, that would help with vibrations and some bumps 
 

I think you might be referring to a z axis stabiliser add on ?
I did this quick test of the Ulanzi one for my Osmo Pocket here.
It certainly helps with the bobbing when walking with an Osmo Pocket so also helps with other types of shots where there would be unwanted up/down motion.
It can be modified easily enough for an iPhone but whilst its good (and tuneable) for controlling the unwanted motion, I'm doubtful how useful it would be with more extreme cases.
 

might have be the first to do it on the inst360. the technique is called slit scanning.  i have seen it done on black and white 35mm film so.... the technique goes back a long time.
i quite like the effect but like anything it can be overdone 
 

bit like the bundaberg rum ad out here.. pants are optional at home... 🤪 
More honesty... i went back and watched it again. Mostly because i thought it was an odd screen size for anamorphic, however the second time i noticed the bars top and bottom. Probably because i run the laptop with night settings ( its easier on the eyes for me at least ) and the start is quite dark they blended together pretty well To give me a bit of an optical illusion. 
Not sure a dark night fight lends itself to displaying anamorphic imperfections so well. I kinda feel there needs to be some added lights to let us wallow in the anamorphic experience.  Be it garden lights or tea candles in a suitable container, not jj abrams star trek level of anamorphic, but rather something that lets us go, ooh ah, thats nice 🙂
Another thing struck me. If your about to be attacked at night there may not be time to take a stance, remove the hoodie and fight on. Sneaky buggers are well, going to sneak up on you. It may flow better if the he's attacked, fends off the first attack with mystic light. After that, then you have time to remove the hoodie and take a stance. Which sort of suggests, all right you  sneaky buggers lets have at this.   But again thats probably just me.
 

good work, pat yourself on the back,
i have a theory that things are much more "fault tolerant or built to withstand dumb things being done to them  "  than  from years ago.  So i'm pretty blasé around a lot of stuff  these days.  if  in doubt i'll google or youtube it on how to sort it out. If i can find a couple of sites that agree then im happy enough to have a go at it. 
Although going back a few years... i did manage to kill a dos based 1/4 of a million dollar cnc machine temporarily. Had to get the company tech guy to fix that. 🙄

One day i will buy one of those gizmos i swear..  i'm just waiting for the Black Sabbeth, black friday sale. Actually i have a table saw to buy then maybe i can look at something a bit more relevant to the forum.   

good work, pat yourself on the back,
i have a theory that things are much more "fault tolerant or built to withstand dumb things being done to them  "  than  from years ago.  So i'm pretty blasé around a lot of stuff  these days.  if  in doubt i'll google or youtube it on how to sort it out. If i can find a couple of sites that agree then im happy enough to have a go at it. 
Although going back a few years... i did manage to kill a dos based 1/4 of a million dollar cnc machine temporarily. Had to get the company tech guy to fix that. 🙄

Not quite the same, but rather than switch my recently acquired 14” M1 MacBook Pro for what I should have bought, the MacStudio (or whatever it is called), I have ordered the parts to build myself a super dooper fast external SSD which I can not only download to, but edit off.
I don’t really like messing with techy things and prefer plug n’ play but Mr Gordon Laing had a good video on the subject.
And has saved me 1000+ euros as a result.

One day i will buy one of those gizmos i swear..  i'm just waiting for the Black Sabbeth, black friday sale. Actually i have a table saw to buy then maybe i can look at something a bit more relevant to the forum.   

thats pretty handy to know thanks for sharing your insight. I have two of the t5's however they dont get used nearly enough 🙄 however if one  does die, i now know what  to do.

I've got a bunch of Samsung T5/T7 drives for the Fp and Pocket cameras and, as small as they are, they are still a bit cumbersome and in the case of the T5s I've had a couple fail on me.
This is not exactly a unique or challenging DIY project to make my own alternative to the T5/T7s but thought it might be useful for anyone looking for something similar that is both faster and, for my purposes, a bit more ergonomic.
Enter the Sabrent NVMe enclosure and the WD SN770 NVMe drive.

The Sabrent takes both SATA and NVME in sizes 2242/2260/2280 and is tool-free so you just pop it open and then insert the drive.


Once you've done that, simply snap the case shut again and you have a ready to go drive which, for me at least, is a far better form factor than a T5/T7 for mounting on a camera and is easily swappable in the field for another NVMe if you run out of space.

To be able to mount it to a camera, I decided that the most appropriate and versatile route would be via a standard 1/4" 20 thread so I designed and resin printed an adapter that will take a screw and which is then bonded to the bottom of the drive case.

With that in place it can now be mounted to the camera cage horizontally or in the case of the Pocket cameras, directly into the thread on the top of the camera.


For my own use, I much prefer mounting it in this orientation but, of course, with it now having the 1/4" 20 mount it can be mounted anywhere.
In terms of price, the 1tb drive and the housing came to around €125 so it is certainly very competitively prices compared to the Samsungs.
Oh and there is the small matter of the quoted write speed being 5,150MB/s which makes it significantly faster than even the gen2 T7's speed of 1,000 MB/s.
In terms of actual real world performance, I shot all day with it on the P4K earlier in the week at 5:1 BRAW and it didn't miss a beat.
As I say, not unique, not challenging and not for everyone but it fills a need for me.
Some better cable/cable management required now though.

The Sony doesn’t record though, let alone in ProRes or ProResRAW
It can monitor and stream but in that respect it’s no different to adding a $10 HDMI converter to any Android phone.
As opposed to it needing a $2400 one.
Even if the iPhone had an input (which Apple have zero interest in adding as they want people to buy them as cameras) it has fixed (expensive) internal storage which makes it impractical as a recorder.
Again, that’s before the other stuff that something like a Ninja gives you such as audio input, expansion for timecode and SDI etc
Even if Apple did decide to add all that, the financials wouldn’t  add up either when you can get a Ninja V now for $399 and the 8K capable V+ for $599 as opposed to the $1500-$2000 that a theoretical iPhone with the same capability would be.
The threat that phones present to camera manufacturers will actually indirectly cause phones to be responsible for the demise of products like the Ninja V though.
Not by replacing them like for like but by forcing camera manufacturers to include internal ProRes to compete with phones and therefore make the external recorder redundant by default.

your stuff scares me, heck even your avatar scares me...
personally i thought the start was a bit dark, and to be honest i found myself wondering if that dude had any pants on. Which is a bit bizarre for a grown man to be thinking about.
I liked the added effects, thats pretty cool. Not entirely sure how you did it, but i'd like to see them swirl about him a bit more and mimic his actions abit closer. They could then grow in intensity till their released and that may not be so easy to do.  But im nitpicking.

your stuff scares me, heck even your avatar scares me...
personally i thought the start was a bit dark, and to be honest i found myself wondering if that dude had any pants on. Which is a bit bizarre for a grown man to be thinking about.
I liked the added effects, thats pretty cool. Not entirely sure how you did it, but i'd like to see them swirl about him a bit more and mimic his actions abit closer. They could then grow in intensity till their released and that may not be so easy to do.  But im nitpicking.

i'd say the first 290 odd years were ok, just the  last ten years' have been a roller coaster  down a steep ski slope. 
i'd swear tv commercials are actually getting dumber, which is rather ironic considering just how many people are continuing to further their education at uni or tafe.
So much clickbait on youtube !   I actually dont bother watching you tube any more. What i do is find something i'm interested in and then use idm (internet download manager) to download it, i can then watch it at my leisure, advertisement free.  Which pretty handy because i bought a  mig, tig stick welder last week . 😀
On drones don't take your drone into the nt (northern territory ) there is pretty  much bugger all, where you can fly it legally. Apparently it might wake up the ancestors or something...🙄  There are signs just about everywhere you pull up. Maybe a slight exaggeration, but not by much.
So my advice is, IF you do fly your drone, pull up well short and fly the drone the last bit, you can then honestly say you didn't see any signs. At 400 feet everything is so damn small. 😎
Cameras are fine take as many photos as you want.  The cynical side of me thinks there is some sort of ploy to encourage either the appropriation of permits or some other  form of lubricant perhaps.  
The airforce fly one of those large turboprop planes  around the other side of a hill about 500 metres from my house every 6 weeks or so. i'm pretty sure they fly as low as their allowed because i lose sight of it once it goes behind the hill. One day i promise i'll catch them on camera i swear... 

Nice shots but.....
Title of video : I Got Arrested in Rome - What Every EU Drone Pilot Needs to Know before flying
1st line of description : I Want to tell you my story on how I got almost arrested in Rome twice even with a drone permit.
Join us next week for my video "I Got Arrested in Madrid" where I detail precisely how I absolutely, positively didn't get arrested in Madrid either. 
The stupid thing about the shamelessly clickbait title is that it is actually an informative video that didn't require it. 
 

wow.... thats some rig 
my p4k and its smallrig is feeling a little insecure at the moment lol

Wouldn't it be great if the camera market was like Build A Bear and I could just order the Alexa Mini LF in a GH6 body with IBIS and internal NDs... while also having an interchangeable monochrome sensor that I could easily pop in and out when desired.
Of course, it would have the Roger Deakins mode that would make my footage look better. And obviously the Amy Adams mode to make my actors prettier. 

Along with ensuring you maximize the capture in the first place, ie, not hanging it all on fixing in post.
But otherwise yes, pretty much all cameras for some time have the potential in this regard and the choices really come down to; badge, ergos, build, size, weight, price and yes, some elements of the spec, but otherwise…

If  you can find one talented persons work, which you like, then i would suggest in the background,, is a lot of blood, sweat and tears over a number of years to get to that look.
Canons do have nice colour. A lot of people like canon colours, then there are others who like sony, and the other brands. My point being is personally, i don't think you can go wrong with any of the latest makes of camera.  Its more about the finessing that you need to apply after the image / footage is taken to get a result you like.
Lots of people out there are happy to throw on a lut and call it a day.  If your not happy with colours sooc Then you, my friend have definitely fallen down a rabbits warren. 
There is no one perfect camera that does everything spectacularly.  If there was then there would only be one camera brand. You do your research  and pick the camera that does most of what you need it to do and then compromise in other areas.
 I would suggest before you throw any money around get the free version of resolve.
 With resolve and some free luts and whatever log files, canon has on your camera. Start exploring, learn resolve and throw all sorts of footage at it from your camera while your learning. exhaust every option you can pursue in finding a look you like before spending too much money.  It will be time well spent and helps to define the look your after.
There is a chance your look may even come back to a lens choice or filter perhaps. 
There's a bit of a learning curve to resolve, but that can be said of everything.  There are truckloads of tutorials available on  youtube for resolve. There are probably more than a few ways to skin a cat in resolve ( metaphorically speaking of course ). Like kye said there are basic steps to follow.
Once your comfortable you can probably tailor your workflow to suit your look for a minimum of effort. However you first need to expend some effort to realize the look your after.