CyclingBen

You have to set peaking to a custom button, once you do that you have to press it before you hit record for the peaking to work. Took me forever to figure out why peaking wouldn’t work with my vintage lenses. It’s in the movie menu under the customize buttons setting. 

I wish I thought of this before the new year… 
Is anyone interested in doing a weight loss challenge for camera gear? My thought was we would start February 1st and everyone would do a 5 or 10 minute project with the lightest camera gear they own (no phones tablets or phablets) before the end of the month.
In your project post show us your normal gear and what you used to shoot the project.
Winner will be crowned the EOSHD biggest loser.
Any takers?
 
 

Wow.  My wife has been working with LiDAR for an autonomous military vehicle and one of the first questions I asked was "how does it communicate with the cameras?".  That was Wednesday.  Not only is @BTM_Pix a skilled technician, he's also a mind reader.  Well done!

Wow.  My wife has been working with LiDAR for an autonomous military vehicle and one of the first questions I asked was "how does it communicate with the cameras?".  That was Wednesday.  Not only is @BTM_Pix a skilled technician, he's also a mind reader.  Well done!

I haven’t used the NX1 much for personal use. Now that it’s been liberated from work I’ve been testing it out on one of my passions, shooting the northern lights and a few days ago tried the light trails mode.  
Whatever voodoo Samsung put in this camera makes it shoot perfect northern light photos with this setting, without having to do anything but point the camera in the right direction.
However I cannot find a way to make the intervolameter in the ‘s’ mode work at all. Do any of you know if there is a menu I’m missing or if there is a work around? 
Since the NX1 will automatically make a 4K  video in camera I’d love to set it up every night for the next month while the aurora activity is high and hopefully capture the lights without really having to think about it.
i can’t recommend using the light trails mode enough for the northern lights (or southern lights coming up in a few months). Every and I mean every shot is perfectly exposed and the colors are incredible.

Hi Gals and Guys. I've been trying to match the NX1 to the Fuji Eterna profile in camera for a couple weeks and think I finally have it dialed in.  Here are my settings:
OLED color - ON Picture Wizard - Custom Color Green .95 Saturation -3 Sharpness -10 Contrast 0 Hue -6 Using FCPX and color match I'm able to get it to match perfectly in a click or two.
If anyone has other ideas or better settings I'd be happy to try them and post results.

In full auto mode you have to use the default Samsung settings.  You can use "P" / Program mode and use the custom color profiles and still have the camera auto set the shutter speed, F stop and ISO.
 

I’m not using the shutter priority mode, sorry that was possibly confusing. The S or Samsung special mode on the dial, it has a whole bunch of speciality shot options like the light trace and the baseball swing detection.
 

Beam me up Scottie

I would assume you are a Treky then? ?

For my work at a US based cycling company in Waterloo Wisconsin our team uses the X-T3 for pretty much all of our road cycling and cyclocross shoots since it came out.  I don't even remember the last time any of us picked up the C100 mkII, even as a back up to the back up NX1 (we also use an X-H1). 
The X-T3 is what I would recommend, especially if you're looking for great color out of camera and minimal grading.  Kisaha had another good recommendation for the Panasonic if you don't want an interchangable lens system.  The big downside is the smaller sensor.  
I could see the Canon 1dxii if you're going to be doing a ton of bad weather and mud shooting because that thing is a beast that just won't quit.  Otherwise, save some money on the body and get the X-T3 with the 10-24 for wide shots of riders coming over the crest of a hill, the 50-200 or 50-140 for tight zoomed shots and maybe even the 18-135 if you need the best stabilization Fuji offers for OIS lenses.

Yes normal gamma. I also thought the OLED setting only applies to the monitor but it seems to shift saturation in the actual recording to my eye and also to the monitors in FCPX.
For the Hue, I had never adjusted it prior to trying to match the two cameras, but found the eterna profile to shift much cooler than the NX1. I’m sure the same could be accomplished with altering the white balance as well. I think the Fuji cameras have comparable white balance to the NX1 but it trends a little cooler.
overall I love the match I found. I haven’t tried matching in premiere or davinci yet. I’d use it on a job for work if I had to.

Hi Gals and Guys. I've been trying to match the NX1 to the Fuji Eterna profile in camera for a couple weeks and think I finally have it dialed in.  Here are my settings:
OLED color - ON Picture Wizard - Custom Color Green .95 Saturation -3 Sharpness -10 Contrast 0 Hue -6 Using FCPX and color match I'm able to get it to match perfectly in a click or two.
If anyone has other ideas or better settings I'd be happy to try them and post results.

Hi Gals and Guys. I've been trying to match the NX1 to the Fuji Eterna profile in camera for a couple weeks and think I finally have it dialed in.  Here are my settings:
OLED color - ON Picture Wizard - Custom Color Green .95 Saturation -3 Sharpness -10 Contrast 0 Hue -6 Using FCPX and color match I'm able to get it to match perfectly in a click or two.
If anyone has other ideas or better settings I'd be happy to try them and post results.

Wow, they went Canon on this, crippling the bit rate so much.  I'm kind of surprised to be honest.  For video it seems like the firesale on the X-H1 is a better buy as long as you're not using an external recorder.
Did a wedding for a friend a few months ago (god they suck, props to anyone who does them for a living especially @thebrothersthre3) and finally edited the footage between my X-T3, Em10III and NX1... the X-t3 footage  with eterna either in 10 bit or 8 bit just blows the other footage out of the water.  Little to no color correction and just amazing skin tones.  
If you need a 10 bit camera capable of excellent skin tones... get an X-T3 if you don't need 10 bit,  X-H1.  The X-t30 seems to be for photographers.

Douche your nose with it... I haven’t had an honest to goodness laugh out loud moment in a while. Well done webrunner

Douche your nose with it... I haven’t had an honest to goodness laugh out loud moment in a while. Well done webrunner

Quote,
"Hypochlorous Acid is a strong oxidiser. It is so destructive to pathogens and fungi because of its has very high “Redox Potential”. Hypochlorous Acid robs electrons from bacteria thus destroying it. ... Studies show that a saline nasal rinse containing HOCl killed bacteria and fungus but did not irritate the nose."
Looks like you can douche your nose with it also. Yippie LoL. Great stuff.

I had success using florescent lights going straight into the lens and putting some aluminum foil on the other side of the lens to reflect the UV back up through the rear element to remove some light fungus from the inside of a Super Tak,  
I also opened up and cleaned a Rokkor lens that had significant fungus with rubbing alcohol, a week long light treatment and then opening it back up to clean up the dried fungus.
The owner of the camera shop in my town recommended using this cleaner https://www.amazon.com/CleanSmart-Toy-Disinfectant-Spray-Bacteria/dp/B011ANDC78 which is normally used to clean kids toys.  I haven't tried it yet, but he's restored hundreds of lenses.
 

Maybe he meant the A7S2 as well. I mean they were good for the time. 

That number almost makes me want to buy an NX1, if only for the 16-50mm ?
 

Some lens observations from the 2.0 obtains which finally coupled the IBIS to OIS.
 
10-24: wow, this lens is Olympus good now, simply amazing how good the stabilization is. As an extreme test, I followed my toddler around for about 10 minutes, and all of it, besides walking up the stairs, was excellent.
18-55: noticed a big difference in panning quality, no more floating image. Otherwise it’s a slight improvement.
55-200: not listed in the release as an improvement or upgrade. I’d say it improved at least as much as the 18-55.
18-135: got my personal one refurbished, exhchanged or fixed by Fuji USA... whoa. This is like shooting the 12-100 on the EM-1ii. The image quality is still lacking, but if you’re in decent light, handhold this all day long. 
Fuji did a great job on this update, makes the X-H1 a much better camera for video. There is something about this camera that is just more fun or easier to use than my work X-T3, maybe it’s because I like what I’m shooting more. 

Fall is a beautiful time to fall in love

Fall is a beautiful time to fall in love

I wonder if anyone will be brave enough to make a Speed Booster specifically for that 1.8x crop 4K? @Brian Caldwell 
The usual 0.71x adapters will I am sure come onto the market first, but then in 4K that will still be a 1.3x crop and not full frame.
0.60x Speed Booster would do the trick.
Then finally we have full frame 4K H.264 from Canon with Canon LOG, after so long.
Also with the flange being 20mm, that is more than E-mount, so more space for the Speed Booster optics to extend back into the mount close to the sensor.

Best Buy had an open box Samsung t5 drive in the open box section when I went there Sunday... I bought it and plugged it into the X-T3 tonight for gits and shiggles. The X-T3 asked me how I would like to connect, I tried all the options and each time the camera would switch for a second and then the drive would power off. I’m not good enough with software/firmware coding, but it appears the USB-C is at least capable of connecting to external devices... hmmm