DanielVranic

I really appreciate everyones insight here, extremely valuable to my thought processes.
Something I should bring up - I am no longer doing any type of work that would require 2 bodies and for what I want my "new life" with this camera to be is as rigged-down as absolutely possible. To me; that means no external batteries, no monitors, 1-2 lenses max, rode lavs + rode shotgun and thats about it. Hopefully it would fit in just one backpack.
My commercial days are entirely done, and while I would LOVE to have many bodies for different uses, which is exactly how I USED to live with Canon DSLR's and Blackmagic's or C200's I just do not have the mental bandwidth for it anymore. 
I am grateful for the idea though! I know it's the best way to live, but I need to make some compromises. 

Oh sweet haha! 
1. AF is much bigger deal to me than I had ever initially thought it would. I do enjoy the "feel" focusing manually but frankly Im not proficient enough at it to rely on. Continuous, Face, Eye and Subject would all be really nice. Moving closer and farther from frame (like in a doc-style follow shot outdoors) or for face tracking indoors. Usually f2.8 
2. I use a 17-70 f2.8 for most work, along with the Fuji 35mm f2, 23mm f1.4 (Viltrox) Fuji 18-55, and I have access to the 16-55 but dont use it anymore. Speed is key, as I often am shooting at the observatory or in the city. At f2.8 I am usually running ISO3000 or so on the Fuji which is the absolute max I can push it.
3. Low Light improvement over the XT4 is paramount
4. Not very, I will usually only be shooting 3-8min long. takes at the most. however in the humid summers I can imagine that getting hot.
 
So thanks for the follow up! Definitely priorities are 1. AF Performance 2. Low Light Performance

Little update!
Thank goodness for Notion! I was able to import all my "interview" questions and responses into a few columns and then organize the shots and B-roll around each "block". It made my ideas and thoughts so organized that I am so excited to start rolling!
My partner leaves for vacation tonight, and she is my interviewer, and camera op for the shots at the observatory and coffee shop so I will hold off most filming until then.
 

Intensely helpful. Cant thank you enough for this guidance.
Had a free night last week while my girlfriend was out of town to test everything, plus it was a clear night! So I was able to be much more realistic in running through settings and talking. It takes a few runs, but actually talking to the camera as if it was a colleague interested in my hobbies. I need to work on diluting some of the more scientific terms down to a more digestible format. Explaining what a "calibration dataset" is is easy for me to explain to a fellow geek, but explaining it to a larger diverse audience will be a disaster. I'll lose them right there, no doubt. Hell, sometimes explaining it to myself I get twisted. 
Second. In doing this dry run (dry as in I have no real astronomical data to collect currently so I pretended ) 
1. I walk around, ALOT when doing the scope work. The shotgun mic was good, but clearly had some drawbacks with me moving around. Something like a Wireless ME from Rode might be good just to clip it on and walk around the area without worrying on audio coverage. Cheap too, my work sells them so I can get a major break on cost.
2. I tripped on my giant ass tripod 54 times. I almost threw it to the Sun!! Something I noticed during load-in, the camera tripod was the same size as my tracking mount tripod... which carries a 100lb sub-arc second accurate device... I dont need something equally large for a 4lb Fuji rig. I LOVED my monopod, but didnt trust it on its own un-attended. Travel video tripod here I come.
3. Low Light. This is major issue #1. I tossed about half of the footage because it was beyond what I would be comfortable releasing. Too dark, and when I pushed it, it was a bit gross looking. Something T1.2 or 1.4 I believe is needed here, along with a small LED battery powered fill light. Good music buddy has a couple PavoTubes and I borrowed one from him today for a test tonight. It can't just be the lens, I need more light too.
4. Major Issue #2. With the audio plug and USB power inserted, the floppy screen on the XT4 is useless. My vision isn't perfect either. The 1/8th and USB plug directly covers the audio meter, AF settings, and nearly half the frame. I owned, and sold, a Shinobi a couple years ago and I really am remembering why I bought it in the first place!! Thankfully, this time around I need something much less fancy. I need to confirm framing, audio level and a DC pass through would be super neat. Daytime performance isn't super critical, as I will be using this at night.
5. Power. It would be super neat to power both my monitor and camera off of the same battery on the monitor. Is that a wise idea? I see a ton of monitors with DC outs, and they do make W235 Dummy batteries.. might be a convenient solution
 
 

Thanks for the support!
I did one single test run last night, of trying to get the B roll but also filmed aspect of everything I do in a single nights astrometry planning.
Big notes.
1. Need a smaller tripod. Found a giant tandem leg tripod w a Manfrotto head on it in a closet and it's way too massive for this project. By a factor of like 3. For my budget, Im thinking the iFootage Gazelle to replace the legs and use the fluid head I found.
2. Low light lens. This one is obvious, but also the most difficult. The 17-70 2.8 is great, but a 24-105 F4 equivalent isn't gunna cut it when I'm filming with zero artificial light, often out in fields or at night in the observatory. Also, I believe I have also dashed my own hopes of using a manual focus cinema lens for this. I just can't see myself having a good time doing that. And im doing all of this... for fun.
3. Audio. In running these tests, the Rode Video Mic Pro R set to +20 and the XT4 set to -20dB was extremely clean, and useable for nearly every shot I threw at it. The only time I felt limited was when we had some kids riding down the road at full volume, which it picked up quite clearly as well! May consider a WirelessGOII for more personal VO things and such. Worries have calmed on the audio side.
4. Video Monitor. Here's my major wrestling point! I love the idea and concept of using a monitor. But my main concerns are bulk, balance, and batteries. Is that worth it? I dont think I can answer that yet. My Tamron NAILED focus during the test runs, but framing was a big concern because there were shots that I genuinely couldn't see the screen to ensure good framing. Where I used to work, we used large bright Atomos monitors, and that sadly isn't in the budget. Shinobi sounds fun, but if something is cheaper I will look at it.
 
Any thoughts are welcome!
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the support!
I did one single test run last night, of trying to get the B roll but also filmed aspect of everything I do in a single nights astrometry planning.
Big notes.
1. Need a smaller tripod. Found a giant tandem leg tripod w a Manfrotto head on it in a closet and it's way too massive for this project. By a factor of like 3. For my budget, Im thinking the iFootage Gazelle to replace the legs and use the fluid head I found.
2. Low light lens. This one is obvious, but also the most difficult. The 17-70 2.8 is great, but a 24-105 F4 equivalent isn't gunna cut it when I'm filming with zero artificial light, often out in fields or at night in the observatory. Also, I believe I have also dashed my own hopes of using a manual focus cinema lens for this. I just can't see myself having a good time doing that. And im doing all of this... for fun.
3. Audio. In running these tests, the Rode Video Mic Pro R set to +20 and the XT4 set to -20dB was extremely clean, and useable for nearly every shot I threw at it. The only time I felt limited was when we had some kids riding down the road at full volume, which it picked up quite clearly as well! May consider a WirelessGOII for more personal VO things and such. Worries have calmed on the audio side.
4. Video Monitor. Here's my major wrestling point! I love the idea and concept of using a monitor. But my main concerns are bulk, balance, and batteries. Is that worth it? I dont think I can answer that yet. My Tamron NAILED focus during the test runs, but framing was a big concern because there were shots that I genuinely couldn't see the screen to ensure good framing. Where I used to work, we used large bright Atomos monitors, and that sadly isn't in the budget. Shinobi sounds fun, but if something is cheaper I will look at it.
 
Any thoughts are welcome!
 
 
 
 

The S5 + 28-70 Sigma has really seemed like an awesome option especially if there is a firmware update planned for RAW.

I actually have a Mixpre on loan from SD right now. Its so good! 

Because you already have your new gimbal and your handheld setup, practice with the handheld setup and see if you can get acceptable shots. If not, then maybe think about upgrading the camera. Or, if you want a two-camera setup, sell some other gear for the T4, and set that up for handheld/sticks shooting and leave the T3 on the gimbal.
I don't know if you still have your Pocket 4K (if that's the BM camera you had). I'd definitely ditch that for a T4, because it has the IBIS and better autofocus you seem to want. And working with two cameras with the same color science is nice. Even with different brand lenses that handle color differently, I can correct my T3 and 4 very easily. Love that.

Also, in that same price bracket I could entirely build out my audio wireless rig. 

I don't know if you noticed @Lux Shots but there's banding in your picture? A big grey bar right through the centre. Or should that be gray and center? Anyway, I spotted it.

I have my X-T3 rigged out this way, with pre-amp so I can use XLR mics and multiple mics at once. Here are some crappy quick pics.  
 
You don't need to cobble together a dummy battery, Blind Spot and several other manufactures already make one.  I can't remember which one I have for this rig, a GyroVu I think. It's worked fine for more than a year. This is a heavy rig, but for hand held shots I like that the extra weight tames micro jitters and compensates for not having IBIS in the body. I also like being able to power the monitor and follow focus with one battery. 
This rig also goes shoulder mount very quickly. I have a pad that slips onto the Manfrotto tripod plate under the pre-amp. And I can move the wooden grip down with a SmallRig extension arm. To make it balance better on the shoulder, I should probably get longer rails for the battery and move it back a few more inches. A counter weight would also help. 
For a simpler solution, because you are using a monitor, you can always get Power Extra NP-F batteries with USB and DC power ports. I use this setup for my T4, which admittedly I'm using more these days for run and gun b-roll and walk and talk interviews. You can mount the monitor on the top handle, on an arm on the right side, or you can use a magic arm as a side handle if you bend it right. The only issue I see for using a T3 is that it doesn't have IBIS, so the lighter setup is going to give you more micro-jitters from hand holding.

Very cool. Did not know that.
Most of the features of these new gimbals, just stop start, and charging sounds awesome. Can these new Ronin's mount a monitor like the Ninja on it? 
I have a Fieyu-tech (spelling?) that even fully charged is just not... stable. No amount of tweaking has ever made it work really well so I have given up on it. 
Trying to plan out kitting the XT3 right now is a total pain. I have everything BUT audio figured out, but well see when it all gets here.
 
 

The Ronin S supports Fuji, both charging and stop/start record. So I assume their other gimbals do as well. 
Interestingly, the S can also control Fuji native lens focus with the Ronin focus wheel and no external focus motor. The wheel can control the internal focus motors of the lenses. When they first introduced this in firmware, it canceled out autofocus, meaning all Fuji lenses became manual focus only when the camera was plugged into the gimbal. Now, I believe, autofocus will work and you can use the wheel to adjust focus even while autofocus in on.
Not 100 percent sure about that though. I should probably test it. Shows how much I use my gimbal these days.
 
 

I assume you could as long as you use a program that has ProRes Raw support. There's no point in shooting raw if you can't adjust the raw data at the camera level.

Hello all!
For various reasons, I put down the rigs at the end of 2019 and in the last few weeks I have picked them back up for some short films and small events here in town and I got the itch again.
One of the reasons I put down my cameras was I felt I was limited in mobility. When I used an a6500 on a DJI Ronin S I felt I could go anywhere and film anything because of the size/weight and the AF.
I upgraded to XT3's and a BMPCC4K to gain a PQ upgrade, but my functionality of what I was able to do really went down and I actually lost gigs over it, especially with the P4K, when it was a dolly or sticks it was perfect but SO MUCH of the work I was called for was on a gimbal or handheld and it just doesn't fit that bill for me.
Felt like a total idiot too!! Huge gear upgrade that actually made it harder to get gigs and thus pay off the gear!
So If I am going to do this again, I want to do it right. When I worked my best and my gear became a creative extension of me, was with my small Sony's and gimbal, but the PQ wasn't there. I am sure in the last year or so there have been some major upgrades in this industry but going on Youtube to find some honest reviews is tough. 
Is there a modern equivalent that offers similar PQ to the P4K, only small enough to be flown with reliable AF so I can just focus on the story and not gear? Thank you everyone... 
 

You definitely understand my stuggle right now!
I do have the XT3, its my main photo camera and I love it. I have never updated it so I will give that a good scouts try today.
After reading through, it seems like if there was a S5 that existed that had RAW output and a significantly improved AF that would be my ticket. Maybe a MK2.

You definitely understand my stuggle right now!
I do have the XT3, its my main photo camera and I love it. I have never updated it so I will give that a good scouts try today.
After reading through, it seems like if there was a S5 that existed that had RAW output and a significantly improved AF that would be my ticket. Maybe a MK2.

The S5 + 28-70 Sigma has really seemed like an awesome option especially if there is a firmware update planned for RAW.

This one is next! Got the lens today. So doing tests in a bit~

Hey guys!
Got a stupid good deal on Zeiss Distagon 35 f2 T* i’m getting it next week. $300
Anyone used this? Comments concerns i should know about? I already have FF gears that will fit but just wanting everyone’s experience with them. Either way, I plan on sharing usage over with my photo camera too.

Hey guys!
Got a stupid good deal on Zeiss Distagon 35 f2 T* i’m getting it next week. $300
Anyone used this? Comments concerns i should know about? I already have FF gears that will fit but just wanting everyone’s experience with them. Either way, I plan on sharing usage over with my photo camera too.

Hey guys! 
Diving into anamorphic this next few weeks and I think I have finally settled on what i’m gunna do. Rapido’s Full Package C. 
I use a BMPCC4K with the .64 speedbooster with my Helios and Mir1b. (100% sure the MIR wont work, but i got it for free so hey!) 
Full Package C includes:
Schneider Super Cinelux 2X Anamorphic Lens 
FVD-16A
FMJ-16
V3 full clamp
Step down ring/ Step up ring
1/4-20 foot support
Rear Metal Jacket (RMJ)
Will all of this work with the new 2.8k mode and get me a clean and sharp 2.4:1 delivery?
Just trying to avoid as much vignetting as I can so i don’t have to crop. 
Thanks everyone!!

Hey guys! 
Diving into anamorphic this next few weeks and I think I have finally settled on what i’m gunna do. Rapido’s Full Package C. 
I use a BMPCC4K with the .64 speedbooster with my Helios and Mir1b. (100% sure the MIR wont work, but i got it for free so hey!) 
Full Package C includes:
Schneider Super Cinelux 2X Anamorphic Lens 
FVD-16A
FMJ-16
V3 full clamp
Step down ring/ Step up ring
1/4-20 foot support
Rear Metal Jacket (RMJ)
Will all of this work with the new 2.8k mode and get me a clean and sharp 2.4:1 delivery?
Just trying to avoid as much vignetting as I can so i don’t have to crop. 
Thanks everyone!!

Hi guys. This won't be a gear-related post, but more of just a thread to show you something important to me.
This summer was rough. Fiance left, both parents got cancer, lost my grandparents and that is just the tip of the iceberg. So in July, i left. I packed a duffle and booked a studio apartment outside Reyjkavik for a week. Of course, I took my BMPCC4K. This is not so much a gear "look at how good my shots and coloring are" (kinda) but more I just wanted to share this place with everyone.. even if it is just a little slice.
For the grade, I converted BMDFilm to Linear, CST to LogC, and from there use the Impulz Cineon process, using 5207 on input and 2383 on output and graded in between.