capitanazo

this lens is a beast, shame that nx system die and u there no exist options to adapt to others mounts with diaf control or ibis.

I always considered the NX 16-50mm S a better lens. 2f in most of the 18-35mm range (so, just 0.2f difference), wider at 16mm and a lot more tele at 50mm and incredible OIS.

i think you have to explaind more about the project.
The first things you can do is watch good documentaries, watch some docs from chris marker, herzog and others documentalist.
other things you can do is to start filming sketch, get your camera to the locations to do a "camera block"(idk how it is on english but is basically just try shoots on the location).
do your homework and investigate, do preview interviews to the characters from your interview before you shot.
 

Thanks!  That was what I was missing
I've been playing with it for a while and I've noticed this "black sun" type problem:

This is coming from the HSL node, but the strange thing is that even if I go into the RGB mixer in the HSL node and reset everything to defaults, it is still there, and gets turned on and off when I enable or disable the node.  This looks like a bug in Resolve to me rather than the RGB mixer in that node doing anything wonky.
But that's the only problem I can find.  I even cranked the contrast to ridiculous amounts in a node in before the emulation nodes and it seems fine.
Original image + emulation nodes:

Stupid contrast + emulation nodes:

This is my GH5 in 4K 150Mbps 10-bit 25p mode with HLG.
Edit: I was using the WDR - Compound power grade for the above.  I haven't played with the other ones yet.

Well, here we are then.

The 3C app is now officially available from the Play store for Android devices.
3C enables you to remotely control and monitor the primary functions of your Blackmagic Design Pocket Cinema Camera 4K from an Android device using Bluetooth LE.

Using 3C, you have access to the following camera functionality.

Aperture
ISO
Shutter Angle
White Balance
Record
Focus & Zoom (with compatible lenses)

With 3C you can also store your own custom setting sets for exposure, focus and zoom parameters for later recall as well as automate transitions between stored focus points*.

For ease of use, 3C uses a single screen touch interface to control all of this functionality and avoid the need for you to have to activate any sub-menus to change settings.  
 

3C has a scalable user interface to enable you to remove focus and zoom controls from the screen should you not require them and wish to run the app on a small screen Android device.
In addition, 3C can also be used as an interface hub to enable control of the camera from compatible Bluetooth gamepads.
You can purchase 3C from the Play store here http://tinyurl.com/y5eyujeu
You can read the PDF user guide here User Guide For 3C v1.1 by CDA-TEK Ltd .pdf
You can use gamepads from iPega and 8Bitdo that support keyboard mode and examples of these are https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KA6OR7Q (iPega) and https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017PAX036 (8Bitdo).
3C will also support wireless live viewing from the camera in a future update with additional hardware.

Quite a prescient topic as I have just picked up one of these Skyzone TX5D transmitters.

It has an HDMI input and then converts it to analog transmission on 5.8GHz.
Your options to view it are then an integrated FPV monitor (or goggles if you are that way inclined) or via a receiver that connects to an android phone.
Transmitter is less than £50, a monitor can be had for under £100 or the android adapter is about £30.
You also need to budget another £20 for a lipo battery to run it on.
The benefit of doing it this way aside from the cost is that it is really low latency.
As this stuff literally only turned up a couple of days ago, I haven't had a chance to put it together but I'll post something up here in a few days about it.

A7S II + canon FD 35mm 40$ lens. No IBIS, no AF, with Sony colors that people can't live with, no 4K. 

Some nice footage here, colours look seriously impressive!
 
Shot at iso:10240...
 
 
 

Good question.
Here's some info:
(Source)
However, it seems some codecs are supported.  V14 release notes:
Unfortunately it doesn't seem like there's a complete list anywhere, the "what's new" feature lists are only incremental, and BM don't use consistent language in those posts so searching for phrases doesn't work either (sometimes they say "hardware accelerated" sometimes "GPU accelerated" etc).
My guess is that you should just set up a dummy project with a high resolution output and then export it in every codec you can think of (just queue them up, hit go and walk away) and then pull all of them into a timeline and compare the FPS and CPU/GPU load on each type.  It's a bit of admin you shouldn't have to do, but it will definitely answer your question.

that book is the best you can get, it have a lot of technical info about screen, rooms, color gamut, profiles, ambient, hardware and more to set up a pro color grading workspace and how to work with it.

the theorical info is really nice too, so for start in color is the best way to go.
but, this book is aimed for multiple software, that its not bad. but i suggest you to buy this book, and then get an online courses for your software from scratch.
if you go for davinci, check it out too for the manual, and certificed online training centers.

then, i suggest to visit the liftgamagrain forum, and facebook colorist group to get fast answers to your questions.

reverse eingenieer is a good practice if you want to training your eyes and skills.
 
Do color grading to random shots, and then save and look in weeks- months after to see how your color knowledge has been grown and your "clinical eye" start to get more 
precisian.
 
that are my advice to get into color grading, sorry for my english too, hope it was useful info for you.

daaamn thats its just beautiful
that is the kind of cinematography that inspire to me and im very happy that it could can be done with 1300-2000$ cameras.
We are living in a good time for cinematography, specially for whos work with a low budget.

The Original Pocket was great for mimicking S16. I did this some years ago in El Salvador.
 
 

Really nice looking piece. It should be noted that it really helps that every shot in this piece is either a sunset, silhouette, or some sort of low split light setting.
The really great thing about the OG pocket camera is that you can get that cinematic look in the middle of the day, overcast, or even indoors. Watch this, shot with the pocket and 16mm film and you’ll see what I mean. Very vivid looking images. 
It will be interesting to see what people will create with th new pocket. Hope I can be proved wrong. 
 

Watch this video and stop saying that Pocket4K is not сinematic. In the hands of the master with taste and good lenses, even the GH5 is beautiful. Otherwise, it is too early for you to have such a camera, learn to shoot first
Shot on GH5 using Lomo anamorphic and spherical lenses (50mm roundfront and +1 +2 diopters in a few shots). Graded with FilmConvert using KD 5207 Vis3.
 
 

...a 10mm lens with the 4x crop and a XL speed booster would come out to about 24mm (1.9 base crop multiplied by .64 by the speed booster multiplied by 10 for.the lens and multiplied by 2 for the 120fps crop.) 

i updated at davinci resolve studio 15 on win 10 and now h265 nx500 4k and 720p 120 fps footage work perfectly!
 

I think only the HDD need external power. And any enclosure that needs external power will have 2 cables coming from it.
I use this wire & the SSD gets powered by the computer:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SS31/dp/B014T3JRFM/ref=sr_1_sc_2?tag=macr0e-21&s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480434478&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=sabremt%2Busb3%2Bto%2Bssd&th=1
It's exactly the same as the T5, so the camera will power the SSD. Be careful of which enclosure you get, as some aren't great & actually slow down the Read/Write rates, which might mean you might not be able to record. Personally, when I get the P4K I am just going to use the SSD without an enclosure & just keep it in a jacket pocket because the SSD is already in a case.

If you don't mind the size then this will be cheaper than the Samsung T5.
All you need is an enclosure (lots out there so look around, as you might find cheaper & be careful, as you should be getting Read/Write speeds of about 400 min - should be over 500 if it's a good enclosure) & the Samsung SSD 860 evo (has the best TBW or lifespan), there are other brands which might be cheaper. This solution will be cheaper, but bigger than the T5 - that's why the T5 is so much more expensive.
I've gone this way for external storage (also can double as hard drive to boot from), but didn't bother with an enclosure & just got a cable - a lot cheaper & faster read/write speeds than the T5 (mine gets well over 500 for R/W speeds).

Trees... ? Seven months plus waiting for footage and their first footage is of trees?

Normally i script everything, but with this film all the actors improvised....everything.........it was shot in just six hours........The best part is i only told the actor about the beginning.....the last part i surprised him just before we shot it........he was angry jjajjajajajaja
 

Panasonic GH2 + Flowmotion V2.02 Hack. Color Graded to taste. Download my BozGH2Pana_GT Film LUT for Panasonic GH2 Cameras HERE: https://bulentozdemirfilms.wordpress.com/downloads/bozgh2pana-gt-film-lut/
Music: Ross Bugden - Dawn
 

Z-Cam: "We have produced the most mundane and uninspiring footage that any company could ever possibly publish for promoting their cinema camera"
Cinemartin: "Hold my beer....."

Hey guys, sorry I'm back.
@Marco Tecno Monitors do not work well for shooting stills on the NX1. The reason is the hdmi port puts out a low resolution image until you're actually recording. Frankly I wasn't impressed with this monitor till I actually hit the record button... suddenly the image was tack sharp. Also, you can't zoom in on the images without hitting buttons on the monitor... the more I think about, using a monitor on the NX1 IS TERRIBLE FOR SHOOTING STILLS!!! 
Also, the monitor has it's own focus peaking mode.
@capitanazo The monitor works with the nx1 while recording in 1920x1080 at 120 fps. I shot some high speed footage earlier this week and didn't have any problems with the monitor.

i will explain better know as i could on english:
i think the best way to get a cinematographic piece is thinking what you want to tell on your video, what you want to narrate, and then think about your resources to achieve that.
there is where the shutter, exposure, color grading, compositing shot(or framing), the editing, speed, music, sound and use it to create the atmosphere and the narrative you wanna
create.

No because I would likely use it with vintage glass