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whoisjsd

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Everything posted by whoisjsd

  1. I'd also like to add that the 42.5mm f/1.2 lens is one of the most frustrating lenses to shoot anamorphic with. Either you get vignetting on most setups or you lose a lot of light on smaller lenses. Only some 1.5x lenses work well.
  2. Getting the 3D inserts right the first time was my process. Not sure how I can help you there. If you have never designed anything like this before or worked with 3D printing it's a challenge I can't help you with.
  3. Yeah, but I made them snug enough to work without glue. Lot of testing has to be done before you lock them down.
  4. Nope! At least the M58 one does not.
  5. I replied on my website as well, but no. Not really. I mean, you can use some wide angle adapters, but they have their own problems. The only other anamorphics with variable diopters are Iscoramas, and they're a bit pricey to take just the glass out of.
  6. @YAUN I had the lens as a demo, so I returned it after I was finished. I'll be doing demo on all Aivascope lenses from here on out. Have the new PRO 1.5x right now. You can find Aivascope only on Facebook. I'm not sure if he's still selling the 1.75x lens right now, the new version was expensive to make. He may be done with them. If you can find one used they're really good for the form factor. Add a ProtoDNA and you have a pocket sized winner.
  7. These are very, very rare. I only know of two blue/purple Elmo II's, zero B&H, and a very small handful of 16-H, 8-Z lenses. I've had a few, but they've all sold for $1500+. I can put you on the list for when/if I find another one. Japan seems to be the only place with unfound ones so far.
  8. Everybody who has done it will tell you it's the hardest thing to do ever. Both of the B&H lenses I had came with damaged anamorphic blocks, so I didn't care what happened to those. I set the lens on fire (controlled) after letting some paint remover soak into the seam of the screws. Even then it took a LOT of force. You might need some rubber pipe wrenches to get it open even after that. I don't recommend doing what I do unless you have experience heating parts and metal. Even then, it's the least fun thing I have even done in lens modding.
  9. Yes, it is a variable diopter. It's the front variable diopter from a Bell & Howell 2x single focus projection lens. The anamorphic glass on mine was damaged, so I took the songle focus elements out. I do not suggest doing this to a lens in good condition.
  10. No. Only the Bell & Howell 2x has this glass.
  11. How did you get this? That's a rare gem indeed.
  12. That's because it ended over a year ago.
  13. Actually it's 77mm. Also, RAF Camera can make you a custom ring from the 75mm male to any size. He already has some in 62mm for the Bolex.
  14. That's awesome. Such a rare lens. To be honest, people have talked about this before. I don't think it was anything but an attachment. Are you in Japan now? I'd love to see it in person next time you are.
  15. If this is your only scope I highly recommend looking at the new ProtoDNA than the FVD. I love my FVD but it and the HCDNA aren't really that good for small scopes unless you absolutely need to go wide. It kinda defeats the purpose of having a small anamorphic. I also recommend looking into a 52mm Nikon diopter set (No. 0, 1, and 2). They work very well with the Aivascopes.
  16. A One Netbook One Mix 2s. It's a unique tiny laptop.
  17. So far, I am VERY impressed. Other capabilities aside, the fact that the the iPad Pro handles my GH5 footage so flawlessly and QUICKLY made it an instant winner for me. (It also handles 6K and 400Mbit Anamorphic like it's no big deal. More tests with those later.) It takes a bit of time getting use to the limitations of LumaFusion if you are use to endless option editors from Adobe and Blackmagic. The first issue I saw is that I couldn't desqueeze in preview. I think I'll try to do a comparison of video quality from the raw video and a set pre-compressed in the DeSqueeze app (another app I highly recommend). Once you copy your videos to the iPad or import them from wherever, you can view and trim them instantly. Scrubbing is instant and in full quality. You can do this in the window or full screen on the iPad. Then you can color tag the clips and start dragging them on your timeline. Once on the timeline, you can then edit the video in any way you want. My timeline was already set for 2.76:1 Ultra Panavision. Set your clip to Stretch in Fit Mode and you're good to go. You can then copy this attribute and paste it to the other clips as you work on them. I do wish there was a way to select all the clips, though. The only issue I have found is that you can't copy speed settings. You have to do that to each clip individually. But it handled 59.97 fps to 24 fps perfectly. After that, you edit your clips on the timeline to your liking. Then comes one of the amazing parts... One you're ready, select a clip again and then go to the Color & Effects tab... you can then instantly see a preview of any LUTs you have imported. Like, you can just touch any one, see it and play the clip back in real time. if you have 50 LUTs you can see how they on your clip instantly. After you have your LUT selected you can then tweak the clip's color to your liking. I went out to Ginza last weekend just to film a few clips to test this with. It’s the first video I shot with my new Blue Kowa 16-H, which will be my main lens from now on most likely. It worked very well with the Voightlander 40mm 1.4 (Leica M mount) that I have been using a lot lately. It’s so crazy to be editing video from a DSLR anamorphic rig on an iPad, but I don’t think this will be my last. The limitations are something you have to work around. To get the film effect on the intro and end, I rendered out the video clips and then put them through an 8mm camera app. You only get 3 layers to work with, so you have to do as much as you can with one layer. The only thing I didn’t do on the iPad were my logo and the end card. I imported those to Affinity Photo and edited them to fit the video and end credits. I still want to see how far I can push what can be done on the iPad. I think next I need to find some good animation apps and really try to take it to another level. I think the more I get use to workflow workarounds the more I can use the iPad to speed up projects and work on the go. That’s the plan. Most of that video was edited on the train from Yokohama to Tokyo. I am also finally getting my illustrations cleaned up and finished on the iPad. I need to move forward with those co I can start more. Music too? Yeah, hopefully. I’m excited. The iPad won’t be my only portable machine, though. I have something else, kinda. But that’s for another day. Tech specs: Panasonic GH5 4K UHD 60fps 4K, CINE-D Converted to 24fps Voightlander 40mm f/1.4 Leica M mount Blue Kowa 16-H 2X Anamorphic Lens Rapido FVD-16A Filmed in Ginza, Tokyo. Music is: Luster (Interlude) by Equalibrum
  18. There have been people who have asked Panasonic reps about this several times. It doesn't look like it's going to be implemented.
  19. RAF also made me a custom front filter for fitting a FVD-16A or HCDNA on the Bolex 16/32. He makes great stuff!
  20. First test with the new Aivascope! I was lent the new Aivascope for a bit to test it out. It was purported be be much sharper and better at fast apertures than the old one. And as you can see in the video above, that is VERY true. It gave me a chance to try one of my new favorite lenses, the Voightlander 40mm f/1.4 Leica M mount lens. The whole video was shot at f/1.4 and around ISO 800 pretty much. There might be a few shots at ISO 400 or f/2.0. The area of Tokyo we were in was very bright and had lots of lights. The Aivascope handled everything, especially the closeups, very well. The only issues I had were some flare ghosting by the B&H Focuser I thew together and a few shots where I forgot to turn off digital stabilization. It’s not bad overall and I’m still happy with the video. It really shows what the new Aivascope can do. It doesn’t flare like the old one, but you still get some nice ones in the right light. The only thing I’m not sure sure about is the “D” bokeh, but it could grow on me. Please follow me on instagram for up-to-date posts on what I'm working on! https://www.instagram.com/whoisjsd/ Tech specs: Panasonic GH5 4K UHD 60fps 4K, CINE-D Converted to 24fps Voightlander 40mm f/1.4 Leica M mount Aivascope V2 1.75x Anamorphic Custom Bell & Howell Variable Diopter Marumi 72mm +3 Diopter Filmed in Tabata, Tokyo. Music by me, made in the iOS Launchpad app.
  21. @Timotheus Pixco makes M58 and M65 helicoids. You can just use one of those and then make 3D spacers for the glass. They work well enough.
  22. Nope. Best bet is to find another B&H 2X that has a broken rear (It's more common than you think, according to Bold) and do it yourself.
  23. It already has 58mm filter threads I have have some 58mm "Lens filter protector" caps coming. A 58-72mm step ring is pretty much flush to the circumference.
  24. Sure, but I haven't had time to redo them to make it easier. These need sanding to get a good fit. The outside of the rings not so much, the inside where the glass goes need a bit. But I played safe so I didn't have to pay for more prints. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4vwken2qm1u6jbi/AAAK3VIZzB8gZ44vci29HuqQa?dl=0 The lip on the inside of the rings faces out on both rings. The outside shouldn't need much sanding except to get rid of the shiny aspect of the plastic. The inside front element ring needs a lot of sanding. Just be careful and take it slow, you'll be fine.
  25. So, I made an "Anamorphic Shop Rangefinder". I had been sitting on this Bell & Howell 2X for months. It has a cracked anamorphic element and I planned to harvest the focusing elements and make one. I recently got an Aivascope and it lit the fire under my ass to give it a shot. And speaking of fire, I literally had to light the Bell & Howell on fire to get it open. First I wet the seams with paint remover, let it soak, then went at it with a stove lighter. (DO NOT TRY THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE A SAFE PLACE TO DO IT AND YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING) Took some real strength and grippy gloves to get it, but the snap it made when the threads came loose was sooo satisfying. I made the 3D inserts in Tinkercad and had them printed locally. Took some sanding (I was really careful, as I wanted the glass to have a tight fit) but it wasn't too bad. Once I got the glass elements in and aligned and when I got infinity it was SOO DAMN SATISFYING. I am shooting with it on and off. I will be posting more tests soon. First impressions? It's damn good. Crushes the Focuser 8 and even the SLR Magic Rangefinder in quality. I was very pleasantly surprised. I designed my inserts so the glass will never fall out. If it somehow gets loose the elements will fall "in". The spacers are glued to the helicoid. It was some work, but here's the cost: Broken Bell & Howell 2X on ebay: $60 shipped Pixco M58 17-31mm Helicoid: $20 3D Printing: $9 Getting an "Anamorphic Shop Premium Rangefinder" at better quality and a 5th of the cost and without dealing with Anamorphic Shop? Priceless. More tests to come. Got an Aivacope shoot this week and parts for my Baby Kowa too. FUN FUN FUN. Also, for reference, I am calling this the B&H Focuser from here on out.
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