Ken Ross
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Posts posted by Ken Ross
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On 8/13/2020 at 4:09 PM, inv3ctiv3 said:
I have tried posting in this thread but it always says it needs to be approved by a mod....I have the opposite experience and bought the camera the day it was available for preorder and got it right as it came out, I have since shot every single day with it and obviously the first things I tried were all the features we all want to use. I brought it along for a MTB shoot and filmed in nothing but 4k HQ, 4k 120, 8k raw and 12FPS and not once did it overheat or shut down. It was well over 80 degrees and it was in a black backpack as we were riding for 2.5 hours stopping to shoot as we went. I think people should wait and see what actually happens not just watch youtubers trying to make them overheat, I am beyond stoked on the camera and can't wait to shoot even more on it.
Just out of curiosity, what was your shooting approach? Were you shooting only 15-20 second clips and then turning off the camera? I ask because some people do have a use case just like that and for them it's useful information. Thus far all the testing seems to be hit the record button and time it until it overheats. That's certainly valid for many other use cases.
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On 8/12/2020 at 8:48 PM, HiHamsterLuna said:
Have you guys not heard yet that the EOS R5 can record for 4 hours in HQ mode by using an external recorder??
And not everyone wants to use an external recorder.
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On 7/28/2020 at 3:58 PM, Jay60p said:
Can anyone with the X-T4 confirm this Fuji Rumors post:
“Video Exposure Stepping Fix” in Firmware 1.03 for X-T4
I expect, as Mr. Moon said, the day Fuji really eliminates the ISO exposure stepping ‘the oceans will fall into the sky and the trees will hang with fishes’.
(Tom Stoppard)
Unfortunately not. At first I thought it was after downloading 1.03, but upon further testing, the exposure changes differently than before, but still looks very awkward. Generally speaking, if you don't go full manual, you'll have stepping or something like it.
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On 5/31/2018 at 7:26 AM, Andrew Reid said:
It’s not exclusively for an HDR TV.
If you want to playback A7 III files directly on your TV, just shoot plain vanilla Hybrid LOG Gamma, which compressed the required dynamic range into 8bit and adds meta tags to an XML file so the TV knows how to handle it.
This automatic conversion of HLG doesn’t happen with all footage, only the original files with the meta data. So you are better off shooting Pro Color for the wider dynamic range and wider colour gamut, edit your video, and enjoy the benefits on every display not just your TV with the camera plugged into it. It looks just as nice once it is on YouTube or Vimeo or a ProRes master copy that will give close to maximum dynamic range on a HDR TV display, with the added compatibility for everything else 709.
Andrew, one thing I've noted that I haven't seen discussed much, is the color shift when shooting with an A7iii with PP off to HLG. It seems to me, contrary to what you'd think, the color accuracy appears to take a hit when in HLG mode. Greens in particular don't appear natural relative to how they appear when shooting SDR. I'm not referencing the EOS Pro Color.
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I spoke with Fuji tech late this morning. Apparently this is their repair group, so I was impressed with their knowledge. The bottom line is, according to the tech, the ramping is the nature of the beast. You can somewhat lessen it with auto ISO, but it’s always going to be there. He knew exactly what I was talking about when I was comparing Sony or Panasonics handling of this relative to the Fuji.
It amazes me that other than a couple of reviews, most reviewers never discussed it.
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1 hour ago, Walter H said:
My only frame of reference is this short video. Seems rather smooth to me as he is moving throughout spaces but I do notice the stepping when he does the slider work. Is this inline with what you are seeing?
I'd be pleased but I'm coming from an X-T2 which for me was so bad, I did not use Auto-ISO in video at all. But you are coming from systems which you describe as performing much better.
Yes, the slider is a bit more indicative of what I'm seeing, but actually worse than what he shows.
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2 hours ago, frontfocus said:
Auto-ISO is 1/10 stop steps, Shutterspeed probably the same. Both should be pretty smooth.
Auto aperture is a problem, since it works in 1/3 stop steps which you see. Personally I don't really care, since my aperture is mostly locked, shutter speed is anyway. Auto-ISO and a variable ND filter are what I use for run and gun where I don't have enough time or light to fix the ISO too.
Relative to auto ISO, that’s what I thought too. However locking down both aperture & shutter-speed and letting ISO ride, resulted in the same crude ramping. Perhaps it was a bit better, yet still nowhere near as smooth as the Sony or Panasonic. I know my camera isn’t defective since my tests at B&H with 2 different X-T3s yielded the same results. I’ll try some more tests today.
Another anomaly I found is with the built-in audio. When shooting 4K SDR or HLG, I have always used an Oppo 4K BluRay player’s USB inputs to attach a card reader and then output, via HDMI, the signal to a 4K TV. This enabled me to quickly pop the card out of the camera and preview the just shot 4K footage. I never had a problem with video or audio using this method with either the GH5 or the A7iii. However with the X-T3, although the video is perfect, the audio is nothing but static. It appears there is something different about the audio recorded directly to the SD card. Interestingly the audio is fine when played on the computer and it’s also fine after editing and played on the Oppo. Weird.
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8 hours ago, thebrothersthre3 said:
I rarely use auto anything and when I do I usually don't care that much about the quality. But yeah it isn't super smooth, though I wouldn't say its super obnoxious either.
Relative to Sonys and Panasonics it’s pretty bad. Shooting the same scenes the same way, the difference are very obvious. Whether I run n gun or have the time to be more careful, I still care about quality. For me, run n gunning should not preclude getting quality shots.
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So I’m wondering if anyone has any ideas on this X-T3 issue. I’m new to Fuji, so it may be my ignorance of the system. When shooting video, unlike my A7iii or GH5, I get an ugly exposure stepping with changes in light. The Sony & Panasonic are quick & smooth in their reactions to any changes in light intensity, so this is a new phenomenon for me. Additionally, the X-T3’s reaction to these changes seems to be slower than the other cameras.
In googling up this issue, it seems that the only recommendation short of full manual, is locking down iris & shutter and allowing the camera to set the ISO. However even with this approach, I still see a stepping rather than a smooth transition as exposure changes. Since I do a lot of run n gun shooting, full manual is impractical.
I should mention these results are with the kit lens. However in a visit to B&H, I saw the same behavior with other Fuji lenses. This is really disappointing to me and I’m scratching my head as to why something so seemingly basic, has not been perfected by Fuji.
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11 hours ago, Alex Uzan said:
Rolling shutter is pretty bad, and no IBIS make handeld shots not useable.
Thanks for the video ?
I tested 2 X-T3s yesterday at B&H. As a point of reference, I have the Sony A7iii & GH5. With a Fuji OIS lens (not used in the video you referenced), the stabilization is better than on my A7iii with IBIS. I don't find the IBIS of the A7iii particularly impressive, it's much better on the GH5. However the OIS in the Fuji lenses appear excellent and actually are better than OIS + IBIS on the FF Sony.
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2 hours ago, tugela said:
That Lexar has a write speed of 75 MB/s, and since (IIRC) the GH5 uses a UHS-I interface, only half of that is available. Which means the write speed will be ~37 MB/s. The Sandisk card probably writes at around 80 MB/s. If you want faster write speeds, use the 2000x cards. Those have UHS-II write speeds of ~260 MB/s for Lexar, and ~280 MB/s for Sandisk (or half if you use them in a UHS-I device). Both of them will be faster than the Sandisk card you are currently using.
Nope, the GH5 uses a UHS-II interface. Here ya go:
Manufacturer Camera Model Slot 1 Slot 2 Announcement Date Notes
FujiX-T1 UHS-II January 28, 2014
FujiX-Pro2 UHS-II UHS-I January 14, 2016 Dual SD card slots, however only Slot 1 supports UHS-II
FujiX-T2 UHS-II UHS-II July 7, 2016 Dual UHS-II Slots
LeicaLeica SL (Typ 601) UHS-II UHS-I October 20, 2015 Slot 1: UHS-II, Slot 2: UHS-I
NikonD500XQD UHS-II January 6, 2016 Slot 1: XQD, Slot 2: UHS-II
OlympusOM-D E-M5 II UHS-II February 5, 2015
OlympusOM-D E-M10 II UHS-II August 25, 2015
OlympusPEN-F UHS-II January 27, 2016
OlympusOM-D E-M1 II UHS-IIUHS-INovember 2, 2016Dual SD card slots, however only Slot 1 supports UHS-II
PanasonicGH5 UHS-II UHS-II January 4, 2017 Dual UHS-II card slots
SamsungNX1 UHS-II September 15, 2014
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23 hours ago, tugela said:
The write speeds on those particular cards varies depending on the card capacity. The 16GB version for example writes at 40MB/s, while the larger cards write at 75-80MB/s. Also, if you are using a UHS-I bus device you will only get half of that speed, so you would be better off using a high performance UHS-I card in that case.
The 2000x cards run at much higher write speeds (~260 MB/s).
All of those cards (with the exception maybe of the 1000x 16GB card) will be throttled by your device write speed, not the card write speed.
I'm using the 64 GB Lexar UHS-II card with a stated speed of 150MB/s. In my GH5, the SanDisk Extreme, UHS-I, SDXC Class 10 card, with a stated speed of 90MB/s, is ready for the next 4K clip much quicker than my Lexar. So much for stated speeds. So it's not a question (at least in my case) of 'reliability', but shooting speed.
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3 hours ago, Orangenz said:
The local store sells Lexar and Sandisk (and those lovely Panasonic ones I took a picture of). Their main gripe is their very slow min write speed and recommend against them for 4k recording or in Sony cameras at all. Bit of a "I said they said" kind of post from me sorry
I am currently using the Lexar Pro 1000x, UHS-II Class 10 cards. Although I have no problems with them and have had no issues recording 4K, they are slow to write. So if you need to do some fast run N gun, upon ending your last clip, you may not be able to record your next clip for several seconds. That's the biggest difference I've found relative to my SanDisk. But I'll say this, it's enough of a difference that next time I'd get the SanDisk.
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12 hours ago, jonpais said:
I do appreciate Wolf33d sharing his video. I thought the scenery was beautiful - I don't think I've ever been to a place as lovely as that. But seriously, how can you tell if the AF works when the image is so soft to begin with? Also, I don't do mountain climbing, but it's hard to believe someone could travel to a spot as remarkable as this and not bring along at least one decent lens and an ND filter. It's not as though he hadn't planned this trip for a while. And I realize there are sometimes misunderstandings online, but his response, 'no way would I bring a 12mm only' - I never suggested Wolf only take along one lens on his trip. ND filters don't weigh that much, either.
I'll tell you this, if I was traveling to a place as beautiful as that, I'd be sure to capture footage in the highest resolution & bitrate possible and, if I was determined to slow motion, I'd consider doing it in post to avoid the inevitable deterioration in resolution by doing in-camera slo mo. The other alternative is to do two takes, one in the slo mo and the other in the highest resolution possible.
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2 hours ago, Emanuel said:
So, add tap-to-focus and you're ready to be free of background pulsing or am I dreaming over here?
Tap to focus AND focus lock and you're free of pulsing. It doesn't have to be tap to focus which I almost never use since I'm a EVF user. I use 1-area AF and then press AF Lock. Done.
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16 hours ago, Orangenz said:
AF lock is not so useful as it seems you have to hold the button down? There is push and hold on AF in manual mode which is sort of ok. My RX100 has push on/off toggle for AF which is the most useful as it is very soft and doesn't bump the camera like the heavy rotating AF switch.
Oh no no! There's a setting that allows you to simply press the button in and you can then release it and still hold focus.
Edit: The operation you MUST engage is "AF/AE Lock Hold". Once you set this to 'on', you press the button to lock focus, release it, and it holds your focus. To me this is absolutely, 100% essential, to make this a terrific way to avoid so many of the AF issues.
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That's correct Emanuel. Tap to focus + focus lock, works very well and stops any background issues.
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And I've been pretty successful (most of the time ?) using the central area AF and keeping the subject within that area. But with that said, as I've already mentioned, I welcome the upcoming improvements.
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6 hours ago, Orangenz said:
The foreground stays in focus but there does seem some pulsing in the background. AFC with 1-area box sitting on players (ie. tap to focus). Might try MF, with slide to focus the 1-area box.
I always found it fascinating how the foreground can stay in focus, yet if you watch, you can see some pulsing in the background. You'd think that would have some impact on the foreground too. I'm actually also amazed at how many people seem to focus more on the background than the subject.
I did an early test of the GH5 AF in a shopping mall, and it stayed in focus on the subject, but the background did, on occasion, show that pulsing. I got a comments from a few posters that seemed to only see the pulsing and never the fact that the subject remained in focus. I can understand that a pulsing background can be distracting, but still... Oh well.
Of course using AF lock, where possible, totally alleviates that issue.
- Orangenz and Fritz Pierre
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I know of no solution, this has nothing to do with platituudes. So you'll need to work around it.
I shoot video almost exclusively and in terms of how I shoot, I have no need for what you're looking for.
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No camera company makes a camera whose controls satisfy everyone. It will never happen.
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14 hours ago, Emanuel said:
In conclusion, Brownstone and Antos testing confirm the need to lock the focus either on camera or tripod to prevent hunting. That's the key.
I've been using AF lock not just on my G85 & GH5, but on Sonys with PDAF. No matter how good the AF is, the camera still doesn't know what you want to focus on.
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2 hours ago, hyalinejim said:
Just a quick question here. How the hell do you get manual AND autofocus to work simultaneously. What I'm looking for is the experience of shooting DSLR stills where you can either turn the focus ring manually OR you can half press the shutter button (AF stops when it achieves focus, but if you move the camera it focuses again). I want to do this on my GH5. Closest I've got so far is using an exotic combination of menu selections: AFS in menu, AF+MF in menu = on, Continuous AF = on, AF/AE lock button = AF lock in menu, body switched to AFS.
Under these conditions, when you press AF/AE lock you can focus manually. When you press it again, the camera returns to continuous AF.
The problems are:
1. The AF/AE lock button makes a stupid click as do all of the buttons on the body except for the shutter half press.
2. Audio meters disappear
3. Peaking doesn't work when AE lock is on... just wonderful.Does anybody know how to get this shit going? It feels like the menu and AF systems were designed by a bunch of people who never spoke to each other, and never picked up the camera. All I want to do is manual focus 90% of the time with peaking, and have the option to quickly and silently engage autofocus without going into menus, making a clicking noise, or touching the screen (I like to shoot through the EVF).
AFS (not AFF) must be selected both within the camera setting in the menu and on the external AF switch. If the menu setting is set to AFF or if the external AF switch is set at AFC, the manual focus override won't work.
Youtube 4K quality is so poor you might as well shoot 1080p
In: Cameras
Posted
As can I...and I'd bet many arrive at the 'no difference' conclusion between 4K & HD while watching on Safari. Many are still unaware that Safari won't do 4K on YouTube.