Samin

The autofocus is truly one of the best things about the A7R3.
Panasonic GH5S should have really addressed this. Bit of a missed opportunity. Because A7R3 going to gobble a lot of sales based just on the autofocus.

Looking forward to it 

Market just isn't there for the cheaper stuff any more.
Sony did same thing with A6000 -> A6300 -> A6500. Massive price hikes.

And just to stress that the purpose of this particular prodder is to help develop colour profiles rather than being an end thing in itself, in case you thought I was advocating twiddling around like Kraftwerk while you're recording video.
Though having said that, I think that there is a place for a similar type of control surface (one with faders as well as pots and a few switches) to operate the cameras in terms of the rest of its functionality like shutter, iris and focus. In that way, the colour profile function could just be switched into a second layer and be permanently available.
Should also mention that you will be able to save a lot more than the one custom profile that Panasonic offers you with this system so once you have all of these parameters as you like them then you can save the whole snapshot for instant recall via buttons on the controller.
If this gets any traction you'll also be able to easily share them with each other too to load on to your own cameras.

A quick video demo of the new prodder in action.
All controls are real time with feedback of the parameters on the LCD screen.
The video shows a recording of the G7 being controlled (and of it being controlled as the changes are live when its recording) but will obviously work with the other Lumix cameras.
Parameters controlled are :
 
Profile type (Standard, cinelike D etc)
Contrast
Noise Reduction
Sharpness
Saturation Hue
and ISO so you can see any effect changes that may or may not occur with your current settings at different ISOs
 
Now there may be no bugs in the software but there certainly was in the video. A real life bug crawling across the Colour Checker!
 

I'm currently running everything on a Pi so thats what runs my software that actually communicates by wifi to the camera.
By doing it this way I'm then able to utilise different off the shelf hardware to be the user interface.
In this instance the midi controller is plugged into the USB port of the Pi and I then catch and scale its messages as the input to my software.
It also means I can use different hardware for different purposes, so the gamepad controller for camera control etc.and then map different ones quickly to use those instead.
Such as the really neat bluetooth controller that I'll show you next week that will probably become the definitive one for camera control.
But also means that if someone wanted a different way of controlling it - such as this bluetooth keypad for example - where they can put functions on different keys because they preferred it to using a gamepad then its easy to incorporate.
 

You won't see many GH5s in productions like this. This is a showcase, made specifically to promote GH5s. Of course you don't need IBIS if you are using a gimbal and a dolly, but why would you use a GH5 on a shoot like this, where only the daily cost of renting the rig is much more expensive that the camera's price? Why on earth would anyone make a custom set with expensive lighting setups, cranes & remote controlled gimbals to shoot with an MFT camera which hardly delivers 12 stops of DR in a compressed format?

It is obvious that the reasons they did not implement IBIS in GH5s are clearly technical, although I think it is possible with this new sensor after some minor mods in the body. I respect every technical justification for not implementing IBIS, like: It doesn't fit, it generates heat ,vignetting is introduced etc. But those exaggerated claims like: "We asked the pros and they said NO, IBIS sucks, don't implement this, cinema cameras don't have IBIS, leave this off board please", cmon these are bullsh$t... GH5's target group (i am talking about the majority here) does not mount their cameras on cars, and even if they will, the proper way is to put the camera on a gimbal. How many users have encountered problems with these  "ibis jumps" when using GH5 on a gimbal? I am using this camera every day for almost 6 months now. I have never switched IBIS off, and never encountered these problems that "the same company which produced the freakin camera" reports.  Until last week IBIS was one of the reasons to buy a Lumix, and since last week it is a flow which "professionals users reported to Pana"? GH6 will definately have it, paired with a stupid marketing term like "magnet freeze", and those "reported by pros issues" will vanish. We know this, they know this.

in the forum here, I believe Luke said he was told "2 additional stops". and I think he and many others made an assumption and added that up to 14 stops. i think that's where the confusion comes from. Luke also noted he didnt see a difference in the dynamic range between the GH5 and GH5S other than better highlight roll-off. That's why I think the "2 additional stops" refers to two more usable stops due to the cleaner image.

GH5 at a friend's wedding. A little bit of grain, vignetting, lens blur and digital diffusion... plus a colour treatment based on my experiments with matching colour and contrast with Ektar 100 film.

Yep, love that lens and use it all the time!

Its a gorgeous lens to use and hold. But I think it is a bit overrated because it is so well made, with the aperture ring (which I always use).
I am expecting the Sigma to blow it away and will be happy to sell it as I have an alternative compact solution for photos (Ricoh GR). The 15 isnt bad, it is better than the sharp Panny 20mm and the other primes in similar ranges,  but it doesn't have the magic that the Sigma 30 1.4 has.
For maximum IQ the Sigma will almost certainly win in the corners and edges at wide apertures. Hopefully there will be some comparison reviews for confirmation. Jon saying it is like a longer PL12 is a massive indicator that it will be a big step up. Like when someone posted a yoga video in this thread and switched from the PL15 to the PL12 half way though. The difference was very noticeable.

Looks good. But still not sure if I'd be willing to give up the compact formfactor, again, given there's the Leica and Olympus that are 1mm off in focal length. It really looks beastly on there.

No its not that extreme. If you want to change it you can go into the stabilser options in the menu and the focal length settings are in their. The annoying thing is that even if you choose not to change the focal setting the camera will ask you to confirm the setting each time you turn it on..a possible future firmware update would be great to remove this..

@Dimitris Stasinos I am not being harsh, but what you suggest is the lower of the low, not a middle solution.
A middle solution would be a Zoom F4/8 and a 416 or a Sound Devices MixPre 6/10 with a 416. Good shotguns are above 1500€ (I assume you are living in EU?), and good recorders are to the thousands (a lot of them!). Then you have to add a whole lot of accessories (a good boom pole is essential, Ambient is amazing for the price), and if you start with wireless, that is a nightmare, I still haven't managed to make a worthy wireless kit. Also, you would need a whole set of microphones for different occasions and uses. Dynamics, Omni, cardioid maybe, stereo, recording atmospheres etc They do not have to be exceptional, all of them, but you would need some sort of "arrows in your quiver", as the more experienced sound men like to say! 
IronFilm has some suggestions in his blog/site, and already mentioned and discussed in this forum. Do a little search, but H5 is a no go for me (better get the Tascam 100mkIII), and MKE600 is just so basic, I do not know what to say about it. 14 year old kids doing their blogs with the 600!

Ok received the Zhongyi lens turbo yesterday along with a normal nikon to m43 dumb adapter to use with the nikon sigma 18-35 with the GH5.
First impressions - No issues I can see at all with Vignetting and if it is there it is not noticeable, at the wide end with the Zhongyi which is around 13mm after conversion and it seems fine.
In terms of image quality I am finding it hard to see any noticeable difference between the image out of the Sigma through the dumb adapter or the Zhongyi which is great news to me. I shot some stuff in doors and saw comparable quality in terms of sharpness and resolution throughout. The zhongyi might be more prone to flaring when pointed at a light source but that is avoidable..
In terms of the IBIS and focal settings you have to input every time you turn the camera on. I think you pretty much have to stick to the focal length setting that relates to the focal length that you are going to use on the lens. So if you set it at 18mm, shoot at 18mm and you will get good stabilisation. if you set it at 18mm and then zoom in at 35 you get strange warping effects and issues. there is a delay from when panning to when the sensor \stabilisation recognises the pan and then catches up. if i set the focal length in cam to 35 and shoot at 35 again this looks great and stable, but if i then choose to go to 18mm i get the same issue, strange warping effects and delayed panning.
The issue is the focal length setting in camera can only be changed when you are not recording. this means you cannot while filming both change your lens focal length and the in camera focal length setting. You basically have to choose what focal length you will be shooting at before you start recording and stick to it unless you want some adverse effects....
If you had to stick with one setting I would say you get better results going with the widest setting, so for the sigma you can set it to 18 and get great results at 18 and then the performance gets worse the more you zoom in. I think this option is better than setting the focal length to 35 which then only gives you great results at the far end, and then degradation the more and more you zoom out.
all in all in terms of the Zhongyi...I would not hesitate to recommend it as a very cheap alternative to the speed booster.
 

I just visted a super trippy art installation in Santa Fe. Shot this in 4K anamorphic on the GH5. SLR Magic 50mm 2x Prime.
 
 

As you know, I have been a fan of your work since your GH4 days, but I must say, your stuff has gotten exponentially better since you started using the G85 and the a6500. Your recent a6500 videos and this G85 stuff is next level. If I had any kind of real budget and was shooting something in the city, I would definitely try to hire you... I can only imagine what you could do with an Arri Mini.

@jonpais ha, I was just about to reply about going into the inspector... if you have VLog, the inspector also has an option to process VLog clips as Rec709. I sometimes use it with ML Raw footage if I want a quick BMDFilm or Arri LogC to Rec709 conversion.

Already installed.
1080p60 All-I 200 Mbit 10 Bit will be my GoTo for slowmo from now on. The details and noise structure are insane considering it's only HD video. Especially after Nnedi3 upscaling. It basically looks like 4k. Am impressed.
 
Seems like sharpening at -5 is completely disabled? Still searching for sharpening halos... That would be amazing!

Really nice! this lens went to my shopping list as well 

Here is the confirmation that the camera in the LG V30 is indeed 10bit... 
 

Sigma 12mm 1.4 Art? series is coming up for MFT, i hope this beats current Leica 12mm 1.4 price wise ?
http://hi-lows-note.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2017-08-07
 

After seeing all the keynote and seeing how that Face ID failed, right now I'm thinking more seriously about LG V30.
I don't need Face ID and I can't accept it that it is easier and more intuitive to use Face ID instead of Touch ID. Instead of spending millions on making emojis animated! they should have implemented that Touch ID somewhere in the phone!   

While I ultimately agree with you i think it should be pointed that the surface are of the sensor in the iPhone is over 50 times smaller than a full frame Canon making it much easier to cool.