mnewxcv
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Posts posted by mnewxcv
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2 minutes ago, KnightsFan said:
Are you doing photos or video?
It seems to me that the RGB sliders essentially do the same thing as an ISO adjustment, but after the actual ISO adjustment clips something. I've seen a lot of claims that the NX1 doesn't use analog gain ("ISO invariant"). So ISO adjustments only adjust digital gain--essentially a multiplier, probably in linear space.
If that is the case, then, assuming we avoid clipping, the RGB sliders have no effect other than tricking the camera into thinking it's at a different ISO, which could change the automatic noise reduction and sharpness. That was sort of what my conclusion was, way back last time I posted here. Basically, I can shoot at ISO 400 with the boost, and get an ISO 800 exposure without such aggressive noise reduction.
IF my analysis is correct, then lowering your RGB to 0.75 will both lower your highlights and shadows, pre-gamma curve. So you gain some highlight DR, and lose some shadow detail--basically, the same thing as lowering your ISO. We can test this by measuring like you did in Premiere on their 0-255 scale, but instead we transform the image into linear space first. My prediction is that every pixel will drop in value by a factor of 0.75 at that point. Thus, the >255 values drop down into range, and values near 0 will have a lot of noise.
Please feel free to do that test, as I don't know how you would make it into linear space. All of what you say though makes sense. The curve doesn't change, but the value for each point on the curve shifts.
Also, 0.85 will produce something registering at 255 on a 0-255 scale, 80 and lower will not achieve this (only 252-253 max). My test was for overexposure to begin with, so I will have to retest with normal exposure to see what else is happening, but with 1 stop of overexposure, my tests with values of 1.00 and lower register the light source in the scene as well as the white on my color checker both at the same value (255). When shooting at 1.99, the light source is 255, while the white on my color checker is 254, so a slight difference in highlight range even at 1 stop over.
Shooting video only BTW.
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Those Gamma C results sure are a monkey wrench in the mix. I am shooting normal (no gamma dr/C) for my tests. I tested with a light source present and premiere measures it to be 255 (on a 0-255 scale) for the light source with 1.99RGB and 1.00RGB, and shows 252 for 0.75RGB. I am going to do a few more tests to see the lowest point it still measures 255.
HOWEVER!
There may still be cases in which it is better to shoot with 0.75RGB and clip your highlights in order to expose the subject better (better shadow detail). Not that I would suggest taking a photo like this, but an example may be taking a photo of a person with a light source behind them.
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12 minutes ago, KnightsFan said:
In my experience, reducing RGB below 1.00 makes it so that you can't have anything actually be pure white. None of your test shots have pure white to begin with, so you won't see those negative side effects. Stick a lamp in the background behind the color checker and you should see the 0.75 getting clipped on the scopes.
One thing I do notice is the white balance shifting, which is an unfortunate feature of the NX1: color is not uniform across its dynamic range.
Yes, I pointed out a few pages back that when set to 0.50, IRE is clipped at 92. I am trying to find how low you can go without clipping below 100, so I threw a dart basically and decided to try 0.75. If it doesnt work, I will go higher, and if it does work, I will go lower. My colorchecker shows 'pure white', based on what is lighting the scene, but I do not have anything brighter than that in the scene like you mention. I just took some shots with light sources in them for the overexposure test. Stay tuned
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next I will do the same tests underexposed a stop. It may take me a day or two to get this together. Upon initial inspection, the 1.99 footage has more highlight info and less shadow/black info. However, in brightly lit tests 1.99 seems to have a smoother black roll-off when boosting shadows, due to what seems to be the fact that it has less lower end info, so it has less steps of black that get noticed. It may appear slightly more contrasty, but macroblocking/posterization is actually less (seemingly). Will be doing overexposure tests once I finish underexposure.
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messing around with this today. I am at the moment comparing PW with RGB 0.75, 1.00, and 1.99. My initial tests show 0.75 not having any obvious negative side effects, and provides -0.3 roughly of exposure compensation. AKA, similar to a 0.1ND filter. Please note, this is the first of many tests to be done. This test consisted of recording a colorchecker in 3 lighting situations: basement no lights on (light through windows) referred to as LL, normal light on referred to as NL, and lastly an LED flood light aimed at the color checker referred to as BL. All tests were white balanced on a grey card (warm result) and exposed for it as well. Please discuss what you notice about the differences.
LL test settings to achieve proper exposure:
RGB 1.00, EV 0, f2.0, 1/50, iso5000:
RGB 1.99, EV -1, f2.0, 1/100(accident), iso5000:
RGB 0.75, EV +0.3, f2.0, 1/50, iso6400:
NL test settings to achieve proper exposure:
RGB 1.00, EV 0, f2.0, 1/50, iso640:
RGB 1.99, EV -1, 1/100 (accident), iso640:
RGB 0.75, EV +0.3, 1/50, iso 800:
BL test settings to achieve proper exposure:
RGB 1.00, EV 0, f2.0, 1/100, iso100:
RGB 1.99, EV -1, f2.0, 1/200, iso100:
RGB 0.75, EV +0.3, f2.0, 1/80, iso100:
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one thing leads to another, now I am looking more into the 16-235 vs 0-255 setting. While it has already been discussed in length, it may have appreciable differences when using boosted/limited RGB levels....
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I am going to revisit this using negative values (<1.00) for each color again to see where it starts to fall apart and lose DR.
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5 hours ago, Simon Young said:
I know how to correctly expose v-log-l (and s-log), but thanks for the condescension. As many already know the GH5s has a problem with its sensor/software and this has been debated in numerous articles and videos for a long time. Google is your friend.
He wasn't being condescending, you were being sensitive. He was merely suggesting something to try that he thought may be helpful.
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the red dot is the zoom tool, OKAY. That is what I wanted to know.
The artifacts look like noise to me. Could it be that v log is disabling noise reduction and thats why you notice it? Hard to tell with just the screenshots shown.
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also it may be obvious to some, but I have no idea what camera you have. Please specify. To me the red dots looks like hot pixels.
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re you referring to the red dots? I don't see what the picture after that shows. Do the dots move as the video plays? Can you take another video and see if they are still present?
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I can confirm that turning OLED Color on/off creates a visible difference when shooting a colorchecker. Attached a photo of each. Looks like a bit higher saturation overall, but it is also not linearly increased for each color. Rather, blues seem to be a bit higher in saturation with OLED color on, and the magenta trace seems to pull true to magenta, while the magenta trace pulls slightly to the blue side of magenta with OLED color off. Also, my wallpaper, which I consider to be in the white family but containing some color looks much more yellow/warmer with OLED color on. However, the white squares on the color checker are almost identical between on and off, so white balance isn't really affected directly.
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23 minutes ago, CyclingBen said:
Yes normal gamma. I also thought the OLED setting only applies to the monitor but it seems to shift saturation in the actual recording to my eye and also to the monitors in FCPX.
For the Hue, I had never adjusted it prior to trying to match the two cameras, but found the eterna profile to shift much cooler than the NX1. I’m sure the same could be accomplished with altering the white balance as well. I think the Fuji cameras have comparable white balance to the NX1 but it trends a little cooler.
overall I love the match I found. I haven’t tried matching in premiere or davinci yet. I’d use it on a job for work if I had to.
I will take a test tomorrow with oled on/off with a color checker and see if I can determine a difference. Will post back in 24hrs.
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1 hour ago, Kisaha said:
Why the OLED color ---> ON?
Do you know its significance?
This is something that I never use.
I thought OLED color only changed the way the screen displayed color, not affecting recorded video. Correct me if I am wrong.
.95 green, -3 sat, -10 sharpness are all pretty common practices. Hue -6 is new to me. Since you are using picture wizard, I assume you are in normal mode and not GammaDR.
Are you using a color checker? How are you comparing the nx1 to the fuji?
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19 hours ago, htpoint said:
Is there any update on this , please help the colors are still bleeding I have the latest free version
Unfortunately not.
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4 minutes ago, jagnje said:
I think the red clipping has beed adressed somewhat already.
quoted, not my words.
"The overexposed super saturated LEDs are clipping the gamut. This will happen with Gen 4 on 4.6K too. You can reduce the issue by soft clipping the gamut using the colour space transform Resolve FX plugin. Here I am using the Broadcast gamut because the Pocket 4K option isn't in the colour space transform plugin at this time but they are actually the same gamut/primaries anyway."
Give it a shot, to see if it helps, this interests me as well.
Best regards
would be good to see a before and after.
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Just now, wyrlyn said:
this is the best all-aound lens for the camera https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-M-Zuiko-Digital-12-100mm-Black/dp/B01LWC5IMC?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2530050011#customerReviews
12-100 wide-to tele
sharp
whaterproof
great construction
great smooth focus ring
fixed apreture
and IOS.
well dang. Guess I will need to save a little longer. Either that or get the 12-35 and a 40-100(ish) as a secondary. As much as I would love it in one lens, f4.0 just isn't good enough for every situation.
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2 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:
This is the one you Really want and need LoL. It has the manual clutch which is great for video. Used they aren't that bad.
https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-M-ZUIKO-DIGITAL-12-40mm-Interchangeable/dp/B00EY3YGBS
not bad at all, but OIS is a must for me on my daily carry lens. Doesn't seem like that lens has it.
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2 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:
thanks, that is what I have been looking at and a lot of people speak highly of it. Open to other suggestions as well. Looking for a suitable replacement for NX1/16-50S.
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are there any good zoom lenses available new or used that would be similar to these specs?
f2.0-f2.8 (or faster)
12-40mm range (or similar/greater)
OIS
under $800
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Is there focus peaking while recording?
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6 minutes ago, shooter said:
This is a good offer. Nobody denies that. Don't shoot please
Nonetheless, I wonder why a company limits the hardware to use with a free version...
It is an incentive to buy the studio version. But really, most other companies don't offer a free version of their software at all.
NX1 Extended Dynamic Range? New Settings.
In: Cameras
Posted
Using the histogram in premiere shows more info in the highlights when boosting and more info in the shadows when going 0.85 (what I consider the lowest without going below 100IRE). I also looked at the different gammas and see gamma C carries a lot if information in the mid range. I've never shot anything in GammaC but may have to try and see how it comes out. \
I'm thinking when in a situation where you cannot avoid highlights being blown out, it may be worth going to 0.85 and getting more shadow detail since the highlights are lost anyway. This doesn't apply to gradual highlights like skies, but rather like an indoor shot with a blown out window where it wouldn't make sense to expose for highlights.
I think in this case the color checker is a limited resource. I will fill in as the subject for the next tests to see how real world situations are affected. Good stuff so far.