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SigurdW

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Posts posted by SigurdW

  1. 1 hour ago, Justin Bacle said:

    I would say keep you 7s as it is a very good camera, and get a cheap 5dmk2 for raw ? Is the 5dmk2 enough for your raw needs ?

    Definitely something I will look further into if the budget allows me to. On the other hand, I see the potential of the mk3 to become a full time production horse, with the  1920x1280 (anamorphic), 3200 ISO and slow motion functions that I (am still struggling with this) can live with :)

  2. Excuse me for being a hopeless pixel-romantic. 

    This dilemma has kept me awake for a quite some time now and I am hoping your subjective experience, reflection, input, opinions and/or advice potentially could give me some guidance (or potentially more confusion, which I will take full responsibility for).

    My interest for Raw started when I played with the thought of replacing my a7s for a Digital Bolex D16. While I am usually very trigger happy, I managed to hold my horses when the chance to have a go on it complicated my relationship with it. I realized that, without a second camera (for budget reasons), the 20 minute boot-up and the sacrifice of photography would not make me happy in the long run. While I still want to be a Bolex-owner as I am a sucker for the CCD and its awesome audio features, it is not my time just yet. Nevertheless, the Raw fanboy is still in me and I think the 5D is the (next) best thing (?) and might be a good investment. 

    Maybe I just answered myself, haha. However I specify that I am asking for your subjective experience/opinions. Maybe some of you have been in the same boat or the other way around.

    I did quick and shamelessly dirty test today, if you find it interesting. The exposure is all over the place (unfair), more info on that in the videos description.
     


    Thank you!
     

  3. Haha, phew :) Got nerves just by seeing them in the same image! 

    Wow! You definetely hit the jackpot there! Yeah, I mean you have it all there. However, for most of us on this forum, the glass is the only thing with value - the rest are just considered potential resale bonuses.

    But the right buyer will go mad over this complete kit! I got the mounting system with my 16/32 sample and recently aquired a good old H16, can't wait to use them together. That is something I think would have been impossible to source on its own.

  4. 15 minutes ago, Omri Alfassy said:

    Hi guys

    I Have one of this lens for sale, I am from Israel, How much would you guys offer for it with the original case and H16-Rx ring (see attached photos), I don't understand much about this lens,  but it seams like it worth fortune ...

     

     

    Wow, Omri! Your sample seems to be in immaculate condition. If the optics and mechanics hold the same standards as we see in your pictures, there should be no problem selling it at your estimate in this market. Thank you for posting it!

    (Just curious, is that wet wipes on the left in the last image? And if so, did you clean the optics with them?)

  5. I dont know if I would have dared to use that! Haha, so so cool.

    Asked the seller some questions and he got back to me right away:

    - minimum focus without diopters is 1m, 
    - it is dual-focus, that's why I mention a Rectilux-CoreDNA (or even an SLR Magic rangefinder), 
    - I'm not in office now to tell you exact size of rear element but as I remember is something like 40mm more or less

  6. Most likely misaligned. Had an Isco Widescreen 2000 with the same issue. Even though it was not that far of, the image was no where near what one could call in focus. This is something you probably, with some patience and head scratching can figure out yourself. However, If you don't want to take any risks, I would suggest sending it to Bernie at super16 inc. He did magic to mine. At a price though.

  7. Unless you are shooting with a subtle 1.33x stretch, there are sadly not many options for shooting wider than 50mm FF on the a7s in the budget anamorphic market. 

    Helios 44M is in itself not an anamorphic adapter, but is widely used in the anamorphic society as a "taking lens". People tend to pair it with the Mir-1, Jupiter 9 and Tair 11. Contax Zeiss lenses are also known to pair well with anamorphic adapters.

    A good start would be to read and do your research on this forum. 

    To give you a quick overview


    Most common stretch factors and scopes/adapters: 

    1. 1.33x - Slr Magic Anamorphot/Century optics/Optex/LA7200. You can go as wide as 28mm with the Pany LA7200. 2.37:1 aspect ratio

    2. 1.5x -  Iscorama/Bolex-Möller. 58mm is usually a safe bet, but in some cases you can go wider with pancake lenses. 2.67:1 aspect ratio

    3. 2x - Kowa/Schneider/Isco. 75mm+. 3.56:1 aspect ratio


     

  8. I have sold two scopes on this forum, had them both get in touch over Facebook (checked their profiles for red flags, such as short history/very few friends) and used PayPal :) 

    (Also, good seller-etiquette is to ship tracked, insured and fast once payment is received)

     

  9. On 22.9.2016 at 9:17 PM, Asmir Puzić said:

    @SigurdW It might be a long shot... But if you a looking to sell your Bolex Möller 16/32 1.5x, I'll be more than happy to buy it :)

    Kind regards,
    Asmir P.

    Sorry man, just recently got it! At this point, I think I will bring it to the grave. Good luck finding yours :)

  10. 7 hours ago, DIGICHombre said:

    Hi,

    Never owned this, but did own the smaller 8/16/1.5x for a short time and based on that and owning a couple different ones tooI can say with reasonable certainty that:

    Since you're already getting vignetting at 50mm on a full frame sensor, I doubt very highly you can go wider and not see more vignetting. Unless you figure out a way to mash the back of the Bolex to the very front of the taking lens in your clamp configuration, then it's possible, but I seriously doubt it.

    All of these vintage lenses increase the minimum focusing distance. Just the nature of it. Some ways to get around include adding diopters to the front of the anamorphot. They can get you to focus closer, however you won't be able to focus beyond a certain point with it on. Do some research. 

    I appreciate your advice!

    Have just acquired a Redstan clamp which allows me to get the rear element closer to the taking lens. Waiting for a Nikon E-series pancake, will let you know how it goes. I was just wondering if anyone had (successfully) managed to go closer, i.e. with the Voigtlander 45mm. M mount on i.e an a7s makes for a very short gap from the sensor to the scope, it might just work?

    Regarding the close focusing, I am aware of the quirks and workarounds. Just found it strange, as the metric scale seem to be pretty darn precise until 1.5m and have not until now heard anyone (except me haha) bitching about it. Maybe thats also a clamp issue, we'll see.

  11. Hi all,

    Still not recovered from an anamorphic buying spree and therefore have to sell this one.

    Up for sale is an Isco WIDE-SCREEN 2000 MC 1.5x focus-through anamorphic attachment. I have spent a lot of time and money to bring this one back to life. Bernie from Super16 inc recently saved its life from possibly a terrible destiny. He did some magic, re-aligned, and cleaned it inside and out.

    First of all, the lens comes with:

    - DIY front filter thread. Tito Ferradans-method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrzHyks4LNQ
    - Front cap
    - Machined clamp-style 52mm rear thread (of course removable)


    CONDITION

    Body:
    7/10
    The housing seems to be in pretty descent condition. It has some scratches here and there, but nothing that would affect any operational aspects. No loose parts.

    Optics:
    7/10
    As seen in the pictures the lens suffers from separation on front/rear element, which is very common in this model. Bernie suggested it was not worth re-gluing as it won't affect the performance of the glass' sharpness. Therefore, the 7/10 score. Other than that there are a few micro scratches, some dust particles and faint cleaning marks, which is to be expected. No fungus on this one.


    All in all, it is a great, easy to use and sharp lens. Not pristine, but does as good of a job. If you are in for the flares you might look elsewhere (or you will need a STRONG light source),  but for run and gunning this is a catch. It allows you to go as wide as 40mm (pancake) on full frame.  It is very light (240g) and paired with a CoreDNA/Rangefinder its hard to find a more versatile attachment.


    I am asking H.B.O. 300,- GBP + shipping. Paypal only. I am not responsible for any import charges the buyer might encounter.


    Do not hesitate to ask any question, I won't bite :)  
     

     

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    IscoWS2000.jpg

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