scotchtape

I'm trying some really cheap Chinese lights.
I actually found one really good 300W but unfortunately it only works with 220V - so if you're in 220V land look up ZSYB LED on ali express ~ $180USD!!!
Comes with remote and the metrics with my C800 read very good, nanlite and aputure level.  Fan is also quiet - amazing! I bought a 110V>220V transformer and it works.
Only works on half power here with 110V 😞
Ordered a different one to test that is even cheaper but works with universal AC 😄 still in the mail.
I have a  4x nanlite FS300 array which was amazing at the time for price/performance with the fan mod, but on a recent shoot wanted even more lights, found even cheaper lights now 😄
Am looking forward to a cheaper 600W fixture, but the current crop of 600/1200Ws are that they are overbuilt for mass market and quite heavy, 4x 300W are lighter and cheaper and take up less space so it's hard to justify getting a 600W/1200W unit, way more $$$, heavier, and takes up more space...
I'm thinking at least 3 more years before we see any of the cheaper bigger boys that are lighter. 

Went to Sony land.  More or less satisfied. Any system has its pros and cons. A7SIII does many things sufficiently to make money with.  Also went with FX6 for a bigger camera but I only use it on sticks. Otherwise I use a gimbal with the A7SIII.  Depending on your style the IBIS may work - it's decent for static shots, but for walking shots it's not so great unless you're using a gimbal.  On the other hand if you can live with the current process for the gyro stabilization, you can use that as well.
I much prefer what I can get out of the Sony color wise.  I use the usual slog3 except I typically use the Phantom luts, although I must say I don't like the current version and still use the older version. I will say that the NR is very heavy handed in low light. Since COVID times I haven't done any events so I haven't explored that area myself, but I know the A7III I used was streets ahead of the GH5 so I think I'll be fine.
I really hated the color and DR from my GH5 even if the weight and IBIS were good.  Most GH5 footage seems to be from either (no offense) wannabe filmmakers where the grade always looks like something is wrong with the contrast curve, or from videographers who don't have an eye for color. There's a few people who can make it sing and I definitely couldn't, but maybe you can.
Otherwise the S5 low light looked very very good color wise, but there's the trash Panasonic AF and the lens selection... Manual focus during fast paced weddings - good luck for the average person. 
 

Went to Sony land.  More or less satisfied. Any system has its pros and cons. A7SIII does many things sufficiently to make money with.  Also went with FX6 for a bigger camera but I only use it on sticks. Otherwise I use a gimbal with the A7SIII.  Depending on your style the IBIS may work - it's decent for static shots, but for walking shots it's not so great unless you're using a gimbal.  On the other hand if you can live with the current process for the gyro stabilization, you can use that as well.
I much prefer what I can get out of the Sony color wise.  I use the usual slog3 except I typically use the Phantom luts, although I must say I don't like the current version and still use the older version. I will say that the NR is very heavy handed in low light. Since COVID times I haven't done any events so I haven't explored that area myself, but I know the A7III I used was streets ahead of the GH5 so I think I'll be fine.
I really hated the color and DR from my GH5 even if the weight and IBIS were good.  Most GH5 footage seems to be from either (no offense) wannabe filmmakers where the grade always looks like something is wrong with the contrast curve, or from videographers who don't have an eye for color. There's a few people who can make it sing and I definitely couldn't, but maybe you can.
Otherwise the S5 low light looked very very good color wise, but there's the trash Panasonic AF and the lens selection... Manual focus during fast paced weddings - good luck for the average person. 
 

Tried again with another Sony battery, and set it up on a tripod this time. Got full 128gb 1:15 4K 60fps XAVC-S 200mbs. Dual slots 20C with lens corrections off except for distortion. AF / IBIS on.
Overheat warning just coming on as card had 1 minute left.

I got 50mins of 4K60 before shut down 😞 dual slots, XAVCS 4:2:2 10 bit 200mbps.  Ambient 20C
I think warning came on around 40 min mark, not 100% sure. At least 24p works!

I'm upgrading my A7III to A7IV, bit disappointed with the lack of FF 60FPS but if you do video work the 10-bit and option for 4K slow mo at least makes it a backup to the A7SIII.
I think 6K/8K is going to be here soon so I don't know if in 5 years any camera is going to be relevant!

In my experience of trying to maximize efficiency of lights, the answer is no.
In your example, at the same distance if you used the fresnel vs softbox, the fresnel would produce a small hotspot which is totally useless for soft lighting.
If you then moved the light with the fresnel back to cover the same area, it would be farther away and the intensity would greatly decrease.
If I've learned anything about softlighting it's that nothing beats more power.  The most effective way to get more soft light is to literally get more lights.
 
 

In my experience of trying to maximize efficiency of lights, the answer is no.
In your example, at the same distance if you used the fresnel vs softbox, the fresnel would produce a small hotspot which is totally useless for soft lighting.
If you then moved the light with the fresnel back to cover the same area, it would be farther away and the intensity would greatly decrease.
If I've learned anything about softlighting it's that nothing beats more power.  The most effective way to get more soft light is to literally get more lights.
 
 

In my experience of trying to maximize efficiency of lights, the answer is no.
In your example, at the same distance if you used the fresnel vs softbox, the fresnel would produce a small hotspot which is totally useless for soft lighting.
If you then moved the light with the fresnel back to cover the same area, it would be farther away and the intensity would greatly decrease.
If I've learned anything about softlighting it's that nothing beats more power.  The most effective way to get more soft light is to literally get more lights.
 
 

In my experience of trying to maximize efficiency of lights, the answer is no.
In your example, at the same distance if you used the fresnel vs softbox, the fresnel would produce a small hotspot which is totally useless for soft lighting.
If you then moved the light with the fresnel back to cover the same area, it would be farther away and the intensity would greatly decrease.
If I've learned anything about softlighting it's that nothing beats more power.  The most effective way to get more soft light is to literally get more lights.
 
 

I suggest getting the same fan I used, it's easier to slow a fan down than speed it up (in this context).
It's not that much louder, especially for location work it's a non issue unless you're in a quiet house (and even then it's very acceptable).
If you want to slow it down just get a bunch of fan slow down cables or one with a pot.

Have to say it looks really cool! Not sure how many lenses you can actually fit onto this thing but the feature set looks amazing.  Really good ideas they combined into one package. 
The LIDAR wave AF system is really innovative too, plus the wireless transmission.  0% chance I can actually own one but I'm still excited about the advancements, hopefully it will spur others to actually innovate!

Have to say it looks really cool! Not sure how many lenses you can actually fit onto this thing but the feature set looks amazing.  Really good ideas they combined into one package. 
The LIDAR wave AF system is really innovative too, plus the wireless transmission.  0% chance I can actually own one but I'm still excited about the advancements, hopefully it will spur others to actually innovate!

The 60FPS is from the crop... so not FF.

I use dual slot and shoot corporate video.

I use dual slot and shoot corporate video.

Return or try to remap it using the date trick.

Made a video
 

Clar 350 on sale for $399. Not sure about the fan noise on that one but looks like it could be a good alternative, I like the remote and the PSU looks ok.
But there's 3 fans and a fan in the PSU so... good luck if you want to change anything.
I'm sure next year there will be even better lights! But at these prices, fighting daylight has never been more accessible.
I put 4x 300w through a full grid, getting around 11.5-12EV. Finally can light against windows!

Made a video
 

Fan came today. Non scientific testing since I can't get access to the temperature sensor (without more tools).
Fan replaced with Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1300
Temperature delta: apprx +2 degrees C, fan noise comparable to Aputure C300D II, different characteristic.  May be slightly louder, but much quieter than stock, negligible temperature increase.
Lowering fan speed to around 1000rpm (guessing, using no name fan reducer) temperature delta up to 9C, a little bit less noise, not really worth it.
Lowering fan speed to around 750rpm, temperature delta up to 19C, runs almost silent.
I'm guessing if you ran it around 900rpm it could be very quiet and get you +12C
I'm leaving it at 1300 for now.
Might make a video later, planning on using 4x for 1200W!
 
 

Just got mine in the mail. Ran it for an hour and have already disassembled it 😄
Fan swap is relatively easy, I might make a video on it when more parts come in, I tried a Noctua 120mm 7 or 900 rpm and it doesn't push enough air.
EZ to damage the male JST connector on the board though - more cosmetic than anything else.
It's louder than my computer!

Just did a quick recording test. 
At 6ft away using C300D II as baseline, hyper cardiod mic pointed directly at front of fan. Gain to my voice set at -12dB (standing next to light). In post raised levels by 30dB and used Audition's average RMS reading for the scanned selections and noted the difference. Also tested at 1ft. Of course the closer in you are, the larger the difference will be.
6ft /1ft FS300 Stock ~ +12dB/13.6dB
6ft/1ft FS300 Noctua 1300rpm ~ + 1.2dB/3.6dB
So in real life, with your light anywhere from 3-9ft away, with the mic pointed away from it and much closer to subject, you probably won't add too much noise using the Noctua 1300 rpm fan (guessing less than 1dB). If you put the mic right next to the lights and closeup, then the F300 with the noctua is like 4dB louder.
Gotta love the marketing for the FS300 "A real asset in sound-sensitive environments, the FS-300 employs fan cooling for quiet performance." ... 12dB louder than C300D II...

Just did a quick recording test. 
At 6ft away using C300D II as baseline, hyper cardiod mic pointed directly at front of fan. Gain to my voice set at -12dB (standing next to light). In post raised levels by 30dB and used Audition's average RMS reading for the scanned selections and noted the difference. Also tested at 1ft. Of course the closer in you are, the larger the difference will be.
6ft /1ft FS300 Stock ~ +12dB/13.6dB
6ft/1ft FS300 Noctua 1300rpm ~ + 1.2dB/3.6dB
So in real life, with your light anywhere from 3-9ft away, with the mic pointed away from it and much closer to subject, you probably won't add too much noise using the Noctua 1300 rpm fan (guessing less than 1dB). If you put the mic right next to the lights and closeup, then the F300 with the noctua is like 4dB louder.
Gotta love the marketing for the FS300 "A real asset in sound-sensitive environments, the FS-300 employs fan cooling for quiet performance." ... 12dB louder than C300D II...

Fan came today. Non scientific testing since I can't get access to the temperature sensor (without more tools).
Fan replaced with Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1300
Temperature delta: apprx +2 degrees C, fan noise comparable to Aputure C300D II, different characteristic.  May be slightly louder, but much quieter than stock, negligible temperature increase.
Lowering fan speed to around 1000rpm (guessing, using no name fan reducer) temperature delta up to 9C, a little bit less noise, not really worth it.
Lowering fan speed to around 750rpm, temperature delta up to 19C, runs almost silent.
I'm guessing if you ran it around 900rpm it could be very quiet and get you +12C
I'm leaving it at 1300 for now.
Might make a video later, planning on using 4x for 1200W!