lenny87

Yes, you should definitely expose and WB to your subject -with a white balance card is perfect-, not the green screen.

Understanding lighting and the shape/texture of light is an acquired skill.  That's pretty much the simple answer, but a comprehension of what that particularly means takes study.  
I had a few semesters of art school that got me going years ago.  I was a terrible artist, but it set me thinking about light.  Getting a handle on what light is, how we perceive it, and what it does for your motion picture image is one of the things that separates legitimate filmmakers from others.
I wish I could summarize what "good lighting" means, but it's so contextual and subjective...you just got to learn it on your own.
FWIW, I'd do the light on set with direct consideration of what your background plate(s) looks like.  Adding effective shadow and highlights on a moving subject is a PITA.

Since you're doing 2D type animation stuff, I'd recommend shooting long focal lengths.  This will "sit" better in the eventual composition.
I made a green screen project a few years back wherein we tried the short lens look.  Didn't like it at all and threw out all those shots.  Edge distortion was awkward.
And, FWIW, we shot vertical too.
Also, an art direction thing to consider: Your subject is darker than the background.   As a rule of thumb, to make the image easier to look at, reverse that.  Not that you need to always do this, just a consideration.  Working in the virtual realm like you're doing gives you complete control over your "lighting."  Make sure you exploit it.

He Jonpais,
thanx for your quick reply. I was hoping i could ask you some more?
-Does IBIS create less noise? Cause i always film on a tripod in a DIY green screen filmroom. see picture:
so my only concern is to get rid of this noise.

-does the G85 creates less noise then the G7?
-and when i have a 2.8 full frame lens from nikon  + an external recorder to capture prores 422, will the G7 be a low light monster?
thanx in front
greetz Lenny

He Jonpais,
thanx for your quick reply. I was hoping i could ask you some more?
-Does IBIS create less noise? Cause i always film on a tripod in a DIY green screen filmroom. see picture:
so my only concern is to get rid of this noise.

-does the G85 creates less noise then the G7?
-and when i have a 2.8 full frame lens from nikon  + an external recorder to capture prores 422, will the G7 be a low light monster?
thanx in front
greetz Lenny

I think half of the people responding (or more) aren't reading the post and just reacting to the title. You're intending to place the keyed footage on a landscape final product, right? If you're shooting a stationary person, portrait would give you more resolution for greenscreen work. I haven't done it personally, but I've seen plenty of BTS with vertical cameras for situations like this, maximizing the amount of the sensor you're using.

@lenny87
Most "cinematographers" would say: People filming vertical videos are crazy / cluess / ignorant. But breaking the rules can even be an advantage for you - depending on what you want to do or express with the footage. Years ago many old, "experienced" photographers got crazy when other photogs broke the rule of thirds...So what? Nowadays many people break this "rule" because of artistic or individual aspects. There are quite many compositional cases, when it would be better to break rules...Don't necessarly do the same shit like million others, just try something new from time to time....
What I want to say: If you want to test filming verticals, just do this. It's your (artistic) choice...BTW: There are some filmers doing it (mostly for PR or promotional short films) on Instagram or FB and you know what? It works in many cases...So, it seems not to be a deal breaker for common audience of this films. Like in 99,9% of cases, it's the content, not the format...
Only self proclaimed "experts" go crazy on this... 

Did you even read what he asked?
To the op: yes, for your application perfectly fine. Just composite it into the 16:9 frame where you have your CGI or whatever you green screen for.

It's r709. The sRGB item in the menu refers to jpegs.

Hey Lenny!
Output would be 8bit. The 4K and 1080 24p codec is on the G7 is very good. One main advantage with external recording to an Atomos would be Prores- a codec which is easier on your editing system. Other than that you got a very, very nice camera in your hands.
 
Speedbooster is giving lenses about the same field of view of Super 35mm, the main film standard, so of cameras as FS7, C100/300/500, etc.
They make the field of view of a lens a little bit wider on your Panny G7 or any other M43 camera, such as GH4, GH3, GF1, E-PL1..:)
These Speedboosters exist for different lens mounts, so you can adapt lenses with Pentax K-mount, M42, Nikon F-mount, Canon EF mount, etc.
You can adapt these lenses with ordinary adapters as well. Speedboosters, additionally, just give you a slight boost in field of view and about 1 Fstop of light gathering/ effecitively sensitivity.
Your kit lens is sharp, but colors are rather on the video side, more broadcast look than Hollywood:), hard to fix in post but possible.
Manual focus is not so nice, because it´s not mechanical.
 
So my suggestion would be: get an ordinary adapter for Canon FD on m43 mount for about 15USD/EU, plus an 28mm F2.8 in Canon FD mount
from Canon (about 20 to 40 USD), Sigma or Tokina or Vivitar or Kiron (cheaper alternatives). Nice filmic combo to produce fantastic results!
Plus Canon FD 50mm 1.8 for 15 to 30 USD.
There are so many lens tips on this forum from Andy Lee and other guys. But for a start my suggestions would
be fine. Avoid the GAS, Gear acquistion syndrome and keep it simple for the beginning.:)
 
24mm option would be about 40 to 100 EUR:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIGMA-SUPER-WIDE-II-24mm-f-2-8-CANON-FD-MOUNT-LENS-W-HOOD-/322114601538?hash=item4aff86c242:g:-80AAOSwOVpXWDpq
cheers