sketch2099

Some frame grabs from a recent shoot with the Rectilux CoreDNA, Schneider ES Cinelux, Contax Zeiss, & Ursa Mini 4.6K.  More frame grabs here:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/seekingheartwood/albums/72157673728625850/with/29553327104/

Hi Liszon, thanks for reminding me to change my privacy settings on Flickr.  Those stills are from an unreleased project and I should try to prevent quite so many stills from being downloadable.
There's some FPN in some of the images from the Ursa Mini 4.6K where I pushed the sensor pretty hard.  I can clean it up, but I just did a super quick grade for those stills until the director sits down with the colorist.  
Shooting in 4:1 compressed raw.  No images of the camera build, but it's pretty standard, rails, lens supports and lenses.

Some frame grabs from a recent shoot with the Rectilux CoreDNA, Schneider ES Cinelux, Contax Zeiss, & Ursa Mini 4.6K.  More frame grabs here:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/seekingheartwood/albums/72157673728625850/with/29553327104/

Some frame grabs from a recent shoot with the Rectilux CoreDNA, Schneider ES Cinelux, Contax Zeiss, & Ursa Mini 4.6K.  More frame grabs here:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/seekingheartwood/albums/72157673728625850/with/29553327104/

Couple of super quick samples with the Rectilux CoreDNA. 
 

I can tell you the pros and cons between the Core DNA and SRL Magic Rangefinder. I don't own the 3FF
The  Rangefinder and Rectilux each have there strengths.
Rangefinder :
Pros - Is built better then Rectilux. Feels more solid and does not make any noise when rotating. Rotating gear is much smoother. 
You could get it with distance marks. 82mm is easily to mange then 86mm via diopters. 77mm is very nice when connecting to anamorphic verses 75mm but I was lucky it fit my Redstan Baby Hypergonar jacket perfect! Half the price of Core DNA.
Rectilux Core DNA :
Image quality is better, sharper and does not tint the image on the warm side. The Core DNA is tac sharp at 1.2 and the Rangefinder needs 2.8 or higher. I'm not a big fan of Rangefinder blue flare blobs. The Core has a non rotating front, which is important to me for a circular polarizer and ND filters being I love shooting nature. For me it was well worth the extra cash. 
A short video I shot with it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zS1pw5p7yc&list=PLIEXyH1Xyq4ToDcZ0ZVCl6bVk060hc_O-&index=3
Here is a list of extras I have compiled to take the Core DNA to the next level.
I would highly recommend getting these extras to make the Core DNA ready for use.
 1. M3/M4 Stainless Steel Nylon Head Grub Screw Plastic Brake Buffer Bolt Screws Hex
This is so you don’t scratch up the coating of your anamorphic lens or housing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281858121964?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=580836260280&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 2. 86mm UV filter to protect the front of the Core DNA glass.
 3. Metal back cap for whatever size you end up using for your coupler if bigger then 75mm. 
 4. A custom coupler made from this lens hood fits perfectly. “FOTGA Screw Mount 67mm Standard Metal Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Pentax Sony Olympus” 
http://www.amazon.com/FOTGA-Screw-Standard-Pentax-Olympus/dp/B009GFY858
Then a step down ring or step up ring for whatever the size of your front anamorphic thread is. I’m doing 77mm because this is what most of my front clamps are. I’m making a custom 75mm to 77mm coupler for Kowa 1.5x and Kowa 1.75x.
 5. 86mm Fixed Spacer Ring
http://srb-photographic.co.uk/86mm-fixed-spacer-ring-5713-p.asp
You want a uv filter to protect the glass but having it on you can’t completely go to infinity. Lucky, even with the uv filter on and not being able to turn the Core DNA to infinity, I’m sharp for over 100 feet. This spacer is for clearing the full range of the focus and using filters.
 6. You want to get some 86mm or higher diopters. You need them if you want to get sharp and close.