frontfocus

One more thing about the X-T200
T200 generates 4K (3840×2150) video by recording 6K video with no crop (6032×3392) and downsampling it
So even with 30p it won’t crop. 

So it comes with a 3.5mm mic jack and also includes a usb-c to headphone jack adapter in the box. Those small things makes me think Fuji really listens. 
Those, the really nice flip screen and the new gimbal is mode, really make it an interesting choise for vloggers. The gimbal mode seems to be only available in 1080p but tony northrup just told us that nobody needs 4k

The battery life isn’t the best, but you can get 400 shots per a battery and with the battery grip or a portable is usb-c battery, i can film a 10 hour wedding without issue. 
 
I think this is the first time anyone has said the Fuji IQ is laughable, especially when it comes to color science. Maybe you need to tweak your settings or picture profile?
i stopped using my 1DX II because of the XT3s photo and video quality. 

You don’t need 4K when you shoot all your videos in a fish bowl, like Tony. Nothing stays in the focus plain anyway. 

The mirrorlesscomparison results don't seem to relate to my experience of the X-H1 in real world.
I find the IBIS to be Olympus - level locked-down goodness.

Or not ? https://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-x-t3-successor-not-to-be-announced-in-january-but-in-february-march/

Long term?     NONE of them are an investment!        Give it a couple of years (ok maybe 10 or so) and a little device that includes a phone will do it all.
To me, it would depend on what lenses a system has or can use and it is getting to the point that they all can (or close to it).
You need to try a few yourself.

It depends an awful lot of you want to lean your bias towards video (such a Fujifilm X-T3) or towards photo (such as a Nikon D500, which is the best in the world crop body for sports photography, and takes rather good 4K video as well but by no means "the best").

Plus it depends on how "extreme" you going with your lens choices, as that impacts the budget allocation as well. 

For instance the NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR is a truly FANTASTIC sporting/birding lens.  But it is not a NIKKOR 300mm f/4E PF ED VR either, and that is no NIKKOR 300mm f/2.8G ED VR II Lens either! (which just that one lens would blow your budget) 
Plus what if you want your lens strategy to be a mix of lenses, perhaps a NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR for the outdoors daylight stuff? Then a Sigma 50-100mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art Lens for indoor sports shoots. Or heck, go for three lenses and throw in the Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 as well! (you could potentially go crazy with all three lenses and a Nikon D500 body, and yet still stay within your $5K budget! If you go secondhand)

 

Then you'd only have $2.5K budget for each system, for something that is already a very expensive niche (and could use up well beyond your $5K budget)

Spreading yourself thinly out over two systems seems like a very bad idea. 
 
Ever shot (filming or photography) with a monopod? It makes a BIG difference! (this is why at the Oympics and all the other big sporting events, that many of the photographers are using monopods)

Wouldn't recommend doing run & gun video with S35 @ f1.8 

And how low low light do you really need?? Honestly think even a GH5 is just fine, people are beating themselves up over nothing, as "even a GH5" kills the bleeping heck out of many many past cameras that countless docos/sports/families/etc have been shot on! If you're struggling with low light with a GH5, the problem is 80% likely not to be the camera but it is YOU

You could shoot in Aperture Priority, just shoot wiiiiide open! (the rest on auto) That will help keep shutter speed high and ISO low. If you feel that comfortable handles the conditions then you might want to carry on with Aperture Priority but with your lens stopped down by one stop, so that the lens performs better and you get more of the subject in focus. 

Or you might make a different tweak by for instance by capping Auto ISO at a certain max value which is the most you'd ever feel comfortable with (as you'd rather trade it off for more motion blur instead). 

Or perhaps you learn that say for instance 1/300th is the average "optimal" shutter speed for your type of shooting, that gives a nice balance between a sharp face but with some blur of the limps to help convey effectively the emotion of "speed", so you might just shoot everything in Shutter Priority instead! (perhaps tweaking it down to 1/200th or up to 1/400th if you know particular performers are slower or faster paced)

Anyway, you see the gist of what I'm saying, experiment with an auto mode then tweak the other settings to nudge the result into the outcome you want. 

They gonna have to let Mokara go, can't afford the licensing fee and his payroll. That's a sad news for this forum as Mokara was a constant source of entertainment.

Sony only competes with RED on Venice level.
Sonys mirrorless offering is imo in awful shape for serious videographers & filmmakers  in late 2019 with one of the lowest bitrate 8-bit codecs and no clear competitive video oriented solutions (cough *A7S3 AWOL*).
And even when you step up to the FS/FX line, Sony has no direct internal Raw options unless you fork out for a $2K add-on device.
In short, Sony shouldn’t even be mentioned in this discussion imho.
When you think of RED, you think of their game changing compressed RAW.
REDs move into sub $7K cine cameras is mainly to counter BMD, Z cams, C200/1DX3,  and all the other cams that may offer RAW, BRaw, ProResRaw etc for under 10 grand.
As compressed RAW patent holders, REDs main concern is that if they can’t beat the competition in court, they can try in camera shops with something like the Komodo.
 

I would far rather shoot with the Fuji X-H1 in that price range. FAR more fun and much higher quality feel to it, much high-spec all-round.

It's literally in the first post, why would i need to repeat ? Why not telling me which camera is the best under 1500$ right off the bat ? I know a lot of people like the A6000 and X-T30 and probably some of their users reading this thread are unhappy i don't like their camera. If you think they make great footage with great motion cadence and i'm wrong, fine, i really don't care.
I did some tests lowering the shutter speed and while i didn't record them to really precisely compare to 1/50, what i've seen in the live view looked very similar. Again, i think the lower 1080p resolution + the mushy look of the Canon + the bigger darker blurrier 18-55 lens probably helps hide some of the motion artefacts.
This is probably what separates DSLR from expensive dedicated 4K video cameras... They don't have to translate a say 24MP sensor to 3840x2160 in realtime with a modest processor, and their software is more optimized.

is this a troll

Except it still  has the same unnatural high shutter speed look at 1/50, with rolling shutter making things worse, and you get banding under some led lights which never occurred with the canon.
Some users have actual EXPERIENCE with said cameras while some just endlessly read reviews and forums, just follow the hype and think they help. Yes it’s a great camera for you tubers, for a video look, but not for those aiming an analog film look.
Show me your « filmic » footage with analog like 24p motion shot on the xt30 and A6000 if you want to prove me wrong .

pretty easy to spot, there is no motion blur with her hair, so that's just a fast shutter speed. That's a user error if you wanna call it an error, maybe the user wanted that kind of effect, who knows. 
I think it's pretty safe to say now, that there is no problem with the X-T30 or the A6300, but that some users just need to learn the basics

That's certainly not 1/50. The stutter in that video is from a very fast shutter speed. Is this representative of what you are experiencing? If so, then your shutter speed is too fast.

This thread reminds me of Monty Python's Cheese Shop sketch...

That's my point, I can't help at all if I don't know what you are seeing. It's not second guessing at all, I'm trying to figure out what exactly the issue is.

That is exactly the point of this thread. We aren't sure what the stuttering that you are seeing is, and therefore can't tell you which cameras (if any) don't have it. "the motion was weird / stuttering" doesn't explain to me what the problem is. If it's rolling shutter you are seeing, then the XT3 is the best APS-C option outside cine cams--or possibly a FF camera using the APS-C crop. If you are seeing stutter from bad playback, then the XT-3 is likely the worst option. If you're just seeing added sharpness over the mushy Canon, then simply use any camera, apply a generous blur, transcode to a lower bitrate and you're good to go lol.

Getting popcorn ready to watch how @Mokara fumbles his way through this news
 

Put a Canon on every bracket and you will hit 4/5 for sure!

You might want to experiment with your AF settings.

Meh, I just use it as my "drinking camera", the only sluggishness with operation here is coming from the drunk operator....
 

Nope, it shouldn't. 
(other than adding in another point of failure that is)