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Justin Bacle

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Posts posted by Justin Bacle

  1. I did try it, you can attach it with a M42 adapter, M42 reverse ring, M42 Helicoid and Step up/down rings with a clamp.
    You need the helicoid to be able to focus the system.
    The only problem being that the "taking" lens is usually arount 75 or 90mm which isn't wide enough IMO. 
    Here is a picture of the system (with a single focus solution) that I tried the idea with : https://goo.gl/photos/a5uBojn7vj2bR2HV6

    Do try it, it is quite a fun experience ;) 

  2. 33 minutes ago, Mr. Ambiguous said:

    Hi,

    I'm trying to find a way to mount the HardcoreDNA to the anamorphot 1.33x 50, but no one on planet earth appears to be making a 77-75mm step-down ring. Any ideas how to mount it?

    Thanks

    Yep, I don't understand why the Hardcore DNA doesn't have a standard size thread. Good thing is that some people are working on a solution to that problem ;)

  3. On 23/06/2017 at 2:43 AM, Jeevan Singh Kitare said:

    Thanks for reply! To be honest form factor isnt a major concern as its only going to be used on the jib, not handheld at any point. The only concern I do have with the form factor is the weight. Do you have any lens recommendations for the A7Sii?

    Alot of people have been talking about the GH5, should i buy this or wait for a A7siii?

    Yeah ive been looking at using a video camera too, however the weight poses a major issue. Do you have any experience with the Sony Z150?

    I don't have experience with the Z150 but I am using a Panasonic AF100 for events (which is of similar size & weight once you add a lens). I never felt it was too heavy and the fact that you get everything at a push of a button is priceless (XLR mics with phantom power, ND filters, Image stabilisation, Iso switch, WB switches, Peaking, Waveform/Vectorscope, everything has a button for it). The only time I go inside the menus is to set the recording format, format the card and set your picture profile at the beginning of the day ! Just put a lens on it, a SD card and two batteries and you're good for a full day of shoot :D

    If I have to shoot a full-day event with a Dslr, I have to pack multiple batteries, a shoulder rig, a viewfinder (with batteries), multiple SD cards, an audio recorder (with batteries for it too) and have to deal with a recording time limit. No thanks !

  4. Here is the real question. Did you ever sat in a theater projecting movies in 4k and thinking "I wished the resolution was better". I know I didn't. 

    I think 8K is way too much as a viewing format. But as always, higher resolutions can see some good uses for VFX and scientific applications.
    As for myself, I shoot 1.5k 4:3 (yep, read it correctly) , so I really don't care about the resolution race :D

  5. On 6/17/2017 at 8:40 PM, Jeevan Singh Kitare said:

    For use on a jib, shooting wedding receptions (which are sometimes dimly lit). The only thing holding me back from the A7sii is the rolling shutter and overheating problems. What does everyone think I should purchase?

    I don't think rolling shutter would be noticeable as there is not much movement usually in weddings video.

    However I think you would be better with a video camera (like the new AE1, the JVS LS-300 or something similar with ND filters, Viewfinder and proper XLR Audio) than with a DSLR if money is not a huge problem. Just my own thoughts, depends on your priorities (Image Quality, Low light, Ease of use, Audio, ND filters, battery life and so on)

  6. 7 minutes ago, Snowfun said:

    The "gold" and red geared ones on eBay (around $480) - any good?

    Or is it really necessary to spend thousands to get decent results?

    Any advice appreciated...

    The cheapest you can go with good quality is with buying either :
    - an Isco Ultra-Star (the golden or red version) you should be able to find some around $200 (got mine for a lot less)
    - a Sankor 16D (or similar : Singer 16-D, Elmoscope I)

    You'll get a dual focus system with great optical performance (Isco is super sharp but doesn't flare, 16D is not that sharp at wide apertures, but it does flare)
    Either way, you should pay more than 200€ for that anamorphic adapter.

    You'll then need to find an adapter to be able to use it. Go grab a Redstan clamp, Rapido Clamp (or a vid-atlantic clamp if you're really down on money) usually between $50 and $100

    So, No, you don't need to spend thousands to get decent quality. You just need to spend wisely. (Of course there are better anamorphic lenses out there, but as you are just dipping toes, there's no rush !)

    Be careful, by tipping a toe, you are entering the madness of anamorphics. Once you bought one adapter, there is now coming back. This is a point of no return !!! :D

  7. You could use this epoxy : LOCTITE M-31CL from Henkel. It is good for glass applications, is clear and not very viscous (great for not having bubbles). I used it once to bond ceramic to glass for a very specific application and it is great. Just be careful to let it sit for at least 2h (as Glass/Glass adhesion is critical) and use the proper mixing nozzle. I don't know how it affects optical performance for sure though but is is very, very clear. You can try and contact them, they usually have good advices to give.

  8. Hi had this one recently, this is a "cuda - GPU out of memory error". 
    You should close your other programs (even your web browser and such as they use Video Ram) and restart premiere and start rendering
    I recommend using AME "alone" to render it as there will be more ram available as premiere will be openned "headless" if oppened by AME for rendering.

    If you're stuck, render with GPU only (but restart Premiere before rendering as switching from GPU to CPU might not empty ram)

    I have quite some problems with recent versions of Pr/Ae as my GPU is quite old now. The latest Cuda core takes waaay more gpu ram and GPUs under 2Gig of ram struggle :s

    Let us know if you have any success ;)

  9. On 6/3/2017 at 2:24 AM, michael.dsilva said:

    is there something i can put between my camera lens and anamorphic lens that will give me x3-x4 zoom, so i can use my have my camera set to its lowest f2.8? or do3s it not work like that?

    Nope, I think you're pretty much stuck at F/4 with this camera :s

  10. May I ask you would want to use the full 16:9 aspect ratio ? This gives a final ratio of 3.56:1 which is basically unusable IMO.
    I record in 4:3 or 1.2:1 myself as I am aiming at a 2.40:1 final aspect ratio. In that case you can use wider lenses :)

  11. On 5/29/2017 at 1:38 PM, Hanriverprod said:

    Wait, EF mount ? Well that's a no go to me. 80% of my lenses are not adaptable to EF ! I want m4/3 :D

    Seems a strange decision as they lower end (GH4/GH5) and previous cameras (AF100 !) have a m4/3 mount. 
    The varicam has an EF/PL mount, but costs 14k$... EF has just too much of a flange distance. As we are not using mirrors now, I don't get why we're still using this mount designed for reflex systems :s

  12. 21 hours ago, Dude_ger said:

    Yeah no, i mean the lenses in the anamorphic itself ;)

    Oh yeah, you shouldn't try and change the distances between the two groups inside the adapter unless you really know what you're doing :D

  13. 21 hours ago, Dude_ger said:

    Don t you loose infinity when the lenses are closer?

    Absolutely not. They are only benefits to get the adapter as close as possible to your taking lens ;) (Wider FOV / Less vignetting, Less light leaks are the ones I'm thinking right now)

  14. You can remove the last part of your adapter.

    On you picture I marked it : 

    592aab2fe83e0_Inkedhelpmakedowithwhatihave-ANAMORPHIC-EOSHDForum-GoogleChrome_LI.jpg.88d5976a73ff716000bb338eaa86a6fb.jpg

    So that it looks like it 

    592aab309e272_ISCOBluestar.jpg.902b9bef8fe774ef8e76fa7107a86de7.jpg

    (picture from rapido's website as I was just too lazy to remove mine from its setup)

    This should allow you to get a bit wider ;)

    I wouldn't recommend a telephoto adapter as you'll lose in image quality (and a bit of light in the process)

  15. You can only go as wide as around 70mm (full frame equivalent) on an ultrastar. So you would need to zoom in quite a bit on your G12. The light loss is to be expected as it is not a constant aperture lens. As the sensor is quite small (1/1.7") you cannot get any shallow depth of field.
    You can take anamorphic photos, but I'm not sure the 720p recording will handle desqueezing nicely :s
    Can you attach pictures of your experiments ?
    (The (only?) thing which is good about this setup, is that your front lens element is quite small, and anamorphic adapters love that !)

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