Justin Bacle

Here you go, 

My smallest yet.

Canon 50D + Voigtlander 50/2.8 (DKL mount) + YashicaScope + Aivascope Focuser 8 ( + lots of adapters from china + rapido to have the yashicascope held properly)

I use one myselft, the back thread is exactly similar to Sankor 16D. So any clamp for Sankor 16D is good

Thanks a lot to all the competitors. This is a great idea for a contest and I love it.

For the story, I went ahead and tried to participate. I picked a setup from what I had lying around, went to shoot and was pretty please with my day. However, when I saw the footage on resolve, it was so shaky that I couldn't use it. This was my last hope for this camera, and I had no time to re-shoot :s

Just for laughs I went to shoot with this stuff. (Don't try this at home, this is the crappiest camera ever made for video) 

I can't wait for the next round ! Congrats to all participants you all did great jobs !

Don't know about this LSR magic adapter specifically. But anamorphic adapters do not like large front element on taking lenses, and SLR magic adapters are not usually sharp under f/2.8.
I'd say you'd better save money and try to find a nice f/2 or f/2.8 pancake lens  

16 hours ago, jonpais said:

Have you ever actually used a Fuji? Because the ergos are quite poor compared to Panasonic. The hand grip is too small, it’s got no swiveling touch screen, the menus can be confusing, it has a nonfunctioning app, the control buttons can be fiddly... The GH5 feels much better to the hands of this video guy than the X-T2. 

I'll have to disagree, I have an X-T1 that I mainly use for stills and the occasional video. It is just the best camera in terms of ergonomics I have ever come across. Everything is accessible, and I never have to open the menu. Just love it. I used an A7S2 and GH4 recently, and I felt like every setting needed to go into a submenu of another not-so-obvious menu.
I guess it's just a matter of taste, but I really love the Fuji handling and general use  

On 11/21/2017 at 9:19 PM, PannySVHS said:

@Justin Bacle Hey Justin, what lens is on that pretty outfit? cheers

There is a Mir-37B, Elmoscope-I and HCDNA on the setup shown  Was testing it to see if was was light enough. (answer is : depends how strong you are :D )

On 11/16/2017 at 3:23 AM, jax_rox said:

A rear-mounted EVF is, honestly, useless.

I have to disagree, I have an AF100 (basically the predecessor of the EVA1) and have been using the EVF every time I went handheld (around half the time I used the AF100). I don't think the EVF is useless to everyone.

That said, the only drawback I see to the EVA1 is the EF Mount. A shorter flange mount would certainly make a big difference to me. Everything else seems great !

I you put everything on rails you will be fine  You can also attach a single focus solution so that you don't have to focus the meteor  

On 11/17/2017 at 12:10 AM, mercer said:

Really, that’s pretty good. I had an Ikan monitor that ran off the same Canon batteries and it was annoying because they wouldn’t die at the same time so it seemed every half hour to forty five minutes I was changing one of the batteries.

I have everything to power both the monitor and BMMCC from one sony NP-F battery but couldn't try it before I got my EVF. I still have to sort that out.

1 hour ago, mercer said:

The battery life is definitely better than the Pocket, but it’s still not great. If you can get 45min out of a battery, you did pretty good. A couple of my aftermarket batteries would rapidly drop after the 30min mark. 

I find the battery life very decent. I shot a small event weeks ago. 2 batteries got me for the entire afternoon with a bit of juice left. I guess it depends on the recording codec a bit.
You can also power it using the 12V input on the camera.

On 11/15/2017 at 4:14 AM, IronFilm said:

And the 50D lacks 1080 internal or any sort of internal video at all.

The 50D records 24,25,30p 1080p video. You need Magic lantern to enable it once, but the setting stays up, so you can record video without a magic lantern card. 
Video quality is between the 550D and 5dmk2.
Yes this camera is outdated for stills, but I never found it limiting in photography. You get, decent burst shots, nice colors and a very good build quality. Only high Iso is lagging behind new cameras.

9 hours ago, Inazuma said:

What EVF do you use Justin? 

I got an Alphatron for cheap  

Here is my run and gun anamorphic setup (still have to find shorter cables!). Here on a tripod but I use it on a K-3 pistol grip : 

4 hours ago, Turboguard said:

Anyway, I want to check in with you guys who own it, what should I get for it? My current "run and gun" set up with BMPCC is just a cage and a monopod for weight, and going similar with the BMMCC I assume I basically just need a monitor? Was looking at the SmallHD Focus? Both camera and display can run on Canon LP6. Should I sell my metabones (nikon BMPCC) and my Nikon lenses and do EF, or is that just too much trouble for nothing (I don't personally see a reason as I always focus manually)? Uhm, yeah hit me with everything you got about this! 

I have a BMMCC, bought it a few months ago a shot twice with it. I really love it, the image quality is great !

I use it on a small run and gun setup (both spherical and anamorphic). I used a monitor at first, but a 7 inch is just a bit too big. I got an EVF since. You should go for a small monitor or EVF and you're good to go. I really love this camera, the codec is strong, DR and Colors are very good but I don't now how much of an upgrade it is compared to the BMPCC.
I only used 60fps a couple of times but the quality was very clean !

The only thing I have still to get is a cage, as I don't know how strong the HDMI port is on these. 

I used Rawtherapee for a while, very happy with the raw processing, it is very powerful and come also with a lot of film simulations (HaldCLUT). The organising side was a bit low on features though.

You may want to try it, it's free and open source.

16 minutes ago, IronFilm said:

They'd suck big time as an "all purpose" camera however.

That's very true  But it takes very nice pictures as a compensation, and you can still shoot 1080p with it (very close in quality to a 5dmk2, so there is aliasing and moire, but colors are great)

6 hours ago, Tito Ferradans said:

Today's most frequent search on eBay: "Kalee Anamorphic"

Awesome stuff, Justin!

Thanks @Tito Ferradans, I knew posting these would make them prices higher. But at it is very uncommon yet, it won't change the market too much I guess.
Plus, there are parts to make to be able to adapt it so that's a lot more work that people may think at first glance :D 
But the results are very promising for sure !

Hello everyone, let me tell you the story of how I got the cheapest single focus solution. And how it compares to the Rectilux HCDNA (results a the end of the post)

Last month, I found this anamorphic adapter on ebay :

It was cheap, and looked like a weird anamorphic projection lens using prisms. So I bought it (Gear Acquisition Syndrome :D).

Then I took it apart to clean it, and noticed it consisted of two prisms (for the anamorphic part) and some kind of focussing solution in the front.

So I 3D printed an adapter for it (around 5GBP printed at a local shop) and tried it. And of course it confirmed to be a single focus solution !

So I had to test it ! Here are the results compared to the hardcore DNA :

Taking lens : Super Takumar MC 105mm f/2.8
Camera : Canon 50D
Anamorphic lens : Schneider Cinelux
Single Focus Solution : Rectilux HCDNA vs GB-Kalee Small Anamorphic (front part)
(Same grade applied to all shots)

Here is a picture of the setup :
 

Of course, the GB-Kalee is less convenient : 

- Minimum focus distance around 1.8m
- Smaller element diameter (would work better with smaller anamorphic)
- More difficult to focus (as my copy of this adapter is quite beaten up)
- Needs a mounting solution for both back and front as there is no filters. (But the HCDNA is similar here are the threads are not standard size)

So, What do you think ? 

I personally think this GB-Kalee needs a rehousing !

Not the same kind of camera as listed above (all are very good recommendations BTW), but you can get an old 50D / 100D for that kind of price, if you want to shoot raw (thanks Magic Lantern)  

I got the feelworld FH7, which is $199
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1350294-REG/feelworld_fwfh7_7_ips_1920x1200_full.html

Has anamorphic desqueeze, and accepts 4k signals (FullHD panel)

https://www.eoshd.com/2017/06/enabling-10bit-raw-video-mini-canon-100d/ 
The 100D shoots very nice Raw

I'd say, it depends on what you plan to shoot. 
Events, Documentary -> GX80
Short movies/Music Clips -> 100D

17 hours ago, Bruno Alques Siqueira said:

im trying to buy this lens but, is very hard to find

Which one are you looking for ?

18 hours ago, PepperJay said:

Great compilation! I like the Singer/Sankor for over-the-top sci-fi applications, and (surprisingly) the Cinelux for the subtle ones. Was the lack of contrast due to the Helios? Does the Lens Turbo II have any affect on the same?

The Lens Turbo does not remove sharpness from my experience, but add a slight blue flare.
I think that the lack of contrast has more to do with my grading than to the helios as it was closed down to f/2.8. But you're right, the helios is not as contrasty as modern lenses.

Keep in mind that the Singer/Sankor 16D I have is partially uncoated (front element), so your results ught differ

17 hours ago, Dick Sweeney said:

HiFI 2 for sharpness and flares

Yep, the Hi-Fi 2 flares are epic ! I find the Dyaliscope to be quite good too

Here is a quick comparison between the anamorphic lenses I have.
The goal is to compares the flares and sharpness.

Hypergonar Hi-Fi 2
Dyaliscope Champion
Singer/Sankor 16D (uncoated)
Elmoscope 1
Isco Ultra-Star
Schneider Cinelux.

All shots with :
BMMCC
Mitakon Lens Turbo II
Helios 44-2
Focused to infinity, using a +1 close up diopter (Hama) except for the cinelux which used the Rectilux Hardcore DNA
(Sorry for the misaligned Cinelux shot, didn't see it until edit.)

Shot in Raw 3:1, edited and graded in Resolve. Applied the same color correction to all the shots.

I chose this lens, so that every anamorphic adapter would not show vignetting.
Equivalent focal length is 58 (Helios 44-2) * 0.72 (Lens Turbo) * 2.88 (BMMCC) = 120mm (FF)

The flares from the Hypergonar and Dyaliscope are just epic. 
I really like the subtle flares of the Elmo I
The flares of the ultrastar and cinelux are very muted, as expected.

The Singer (Sankor) 16D shot is just to show what happens if you want to uncoat your lens  

What do you think ?  

On 10/20/2017 at 9:15 AM, PepperJay said:

PLEASE STOP TRYING TO BLOW OUR F*CKING EARDRUMS OUT!!!

14 hours ago, Andrew Reid said:

+11

I am sick of it!! I go to watch a movie not to be blasted into submission. It's a form of punishment that only the sadistic and the moronic actually enjoy!

I went to see the movie on a small local theatre, which I know doesn't put the sound levels too high. And I didn't find it that loud and enjoyed it.
That said, I do not want to endure these kinds of sound levels you only get in big theaters/Cineplexes.

I really don't get why they have to put the sound output that loud :s

On 10/15/2017 at 4:44 AM, tdonovic said:

I have an af100, it has virutally no dynamic range and weird highlight rolloff and 8bit wrapped to 10bit output. Its fine for shooting in very controlled lighting, but honestly unless its very very cheap, I got mine for $500,  I wouldn't bother, go find a cheap gh4 and rig it up, youll have a much much better camera. Or a g85 or something with unlimited record time. The Af100 is just very dated. Havent used it with a recorder, ill give it a go for you tomorrow

I have an AF100 and like it a lot. It's my go to camera for events where I just need the most reliable camera with low recording media and battery needs. 
You basically plug a Mic, an SD card and two batteries and you're good for an entire day of shooting.

That said, the image can be great, but you have to be very careful with you exposure and white balance. The DR of this camera is around 10-11 stops, and the codec is weak. You can plug an Atomos samurai and get better recording codec though. But you won't get the possibility to do so much in post (you just get 4:2:2 All-I instead of 4:2:0 AVCHD). The image you get is a bit soft, but you can still add a good amount of sharpness in post without destroying the image.

I got mine 2 years ago for 1300€ including a 7-14mm and 14-140mm. I think it is still a great all in one solution for the price, even to this day.

Here is one of the videos I shot, in poor lighting conditions, for a night event with the AF100. I was using Minolta MD glass.