André Eriksson

Haha thanks! I mean we will have to start grading for HDR at some point...

Do you have a source? I handles Youtube HDR...? I'm very confused about all the different wide gamut/hdr modes. Would be great if somebody has a nice writeup. Edit: I did some more googeling, and yeah you seem to be correct. Still, would love a guide about all this.

That's the old macbook. New one has a DCI-P3 Rec. 2020 display. Not sure what it means for color grading, but I looks amazing in the store. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DCI-P3 Don't know how it compares to the Blade. (I will personally try to hold on to my 2012 Macbook Pro for one more year. MacOS actually runs better on it now than it did when I bought it 4,5 years ago.)

Okay, I'm way out of my league here as I'm as unprofessional as one can be, but to me you grade looks really strange. If I look at the scopes of your grade (top) there is a huge difference between your blues and red/green. This is also what I see in your image where the shadows looks way to blue, even for this kind of "hollywood cold shadow" look. There is also somethings strange going on in the low mids, which could be why your image looks quite harsh. (Everything also seems to be clipped both in highlights and shadows, but I'm not sure if this is due to jpg/resolve/luminance levels.) As a comparison I've added my own attempt with a more subtle orange teal look. I am not saying that it is perfect, but what you can see is that the difference in my levels are much smaller, which also makes for a more refined, less harsh look. Scopes are, apart from using them for color correction, also very helpful in seeing how subtle or extreme your grade is. Another tip is that warmth also comes from the red channel, not only blue. Your grade would have looked much better if you also had adjusted your reds, both in shadows and highlights.

Not to be such a downer but this thread really shows the importance of a professional colourist. Many of you at least need to learn how to use waveforms and scopes. (Including myself, I didn't really bother with them) (Original Neumann film as has perfectly fine neutral "basic" grade which I think is fitting a product launch movie.)

Just a disclaimer, my grade was mostly ment to showcase the breaking point of the file, and is pushed too far. Note the artifacting in the skin in the second image (8 bit 60p). But I think it would have held up if it were shot in 10 bit!

Pushed some of the clips quite hard. Noise will of course appear, but I do not see any compression artefacts at all in the 10 bit clips (first image). Not sure yet what I think about the color science.. its not effortlessly beautiful.

Did a short 1 min test with 160 mbit. Camera was very responsive this time. The macroblocking I remember is essentially gone, but the biggest improvement actually seems to be in motion cadence. No tearing or anything even with a manual non-stabilized lens. Has anybody done any longer stress tests? I'm thinking of shooting a short film (just a personal project) with this hack tomorrow... but I'm worried about general stability and somehow bricking the camera, running it hacked for two long days. Any advice?

First off, great work Vasile!! I did a very short test and while it certainly worked, the camera got a little bit slow, it also had trouble turning off. It maybe seemed faster at a lower 120 mbps setting, but I got too scared of the whole thing and removed the hack. I might try again later, just paranoid that it will damage the camera somehow Edit: I can see an extremely small improvement in macro blocking, and maybe slightly more detailed foliage, with the 120 mbps setting.

Came across this Tested/Mythbusters clip where they have strapped a Ursa 4,6k to a car with an interesting rig. Quite a long clip, some footage from the camera scattered through out, most of it at the end (8:00 and forward).

You'll get there. For learning, maybe try to stay away from the LUTs, they can mess up a lot of things.

Thanks! No LUT. Just DaVinci Resolves lovely gamma wheel, a lot of saturation, some fiddling with the contrast curve, and then I balanced the individual red, green and blue curves in a separate node. It's very easy to get lost with the individual curves though...

I see now that they turned out quite dark. Anyway, I think your very first grade looks the best. Maybe a little too orange, I had the same problem. Since I've not seen him in person I'm just gonna assume that he is an orange guy!

The settings from the camera seems fine. I blame any bad skin tones on laying in bed with the macbook at an awkward angle... RGB Cruves + very minor hue adjustments in Resolve: Nice bookeh on that lens btw.

Was bored and did some grading, with a slight warm touch. Nice grain from the camera. I would really like to learn how to remove the blueish hue from the tree branches in the sky...