Juxx989

I think the fact that most people are comparing the NX1 to RED's or URSAs is already something astounishing to say, considering the NX1 was on sale a few days ago for 500$ and the rest of these cameras cost +4k$. 
I personally do believe its one of the best consumer cameras out there, it has a lot of strenghts and its weak points (at least to me) arent that big of a deal, but of course this all means nothing if your needs are different. 
But one of the things that most of my clients say when they first see the films is "the colors and image is beautifull", so I think even random clients appreciate the colors much more than what we think they do.

I shot one wedding with my Pocket. It has a notoriously bad internal mic, utterly useless even for reference audio in most cases. Being a one-man-band and not into wiring anyone (which I did on one occasion, good audio, but too much interference and affected "performances" too much, aside from being a hassle), I was thinking about a "lenshopper" and my usual two Zoom H1's I place or ask people to hold. I researched and found a product from german private inventor Wolfgang Winne, then called Ohrwurm (ear worm), in my case the particularly ugly big headset with the ridiculous dead cats that makes you look like an idiot. I plugged one cable into the phone jack, the other to the mic jack, set the mic level manually to 70% once, done! The microphones have an incredible dynamic range, capturing quiet sounds with no noise and don't clip or distort below 130 dB (that's when it starts to hurt). They are practically dummy head mics that let you record what you hear. I originally planned to get useable reference sound for the Zooms (mono recording), but I didn't use their sound at all.
The smaller earwigs have no headphone-control (I don't know them personally), but they have a very good reputation. Even if you mistrust them for the final audio, they will deliver better audio than any built-in camera mic. 

Weddings are kind of my bread and butter. Like most people here I started on Canon DSLRs, but eventually went mirrorless. While I've shot quite a few with the GH4 and A7s i/ii, my tried-and-true favorite combination for weddings for the last 2 years or so is my NX1 with a battery grip (battery life for days!) on a benro monopod. The 4k is fantastic, the 60p is excellent and the 120p is very good. For glass, probably 99% of the time I'm using either the sigma 18-35 or the rokinon 85mm. I have an SLR magic variable ND with xume magnetic filter holders, so I can just clop it on and off any lenses i use in half a second, very convenient for the running and gunning of weddings. Who needs internal NDs when it's that easy. 

For steadicam shots, lately I keep an NX500 with a rokinon 12mm on a zhiyun crane ready to go in my bag when I need some cool camera movement. I've pared down my wedding kit so that I can carry it all with me all the time(peak design everyday messenger for the win!) I have  a nasty habit of setting things down in the moment, forgetting about them, losing them, etc. and it's just so much of a hassle to have too much gear. I've done the whole ronin thing, extra lights, all the lenses I MIGHT need, but then you have the risk of that stuff laying around when you're not using it, just not worth it for me, especially since most of the time I'm a one-man-band.

Like everyone is saying, audio is important (I live in Utah, i.e. lots of Mormons here, so I don't actually film too many ceremonies, just the happy couple coming out of the temple) but for the odd ceremony it's really not too much trouble to throw a Sennheiser g3 or something similar on the priest, and line-out record the house audio with any recorder you want for backup and you're golden. I just don't see much of a reason to over-complicate things. Weddings are easy. Pretty fun too. Good luck! 

Especially if you are a one man band with only two cameras - but - I read so much criticism of other people's work on forums like this (and Youtube / Vimeo) that I just would not risk it lol.
 
If Philip Bloom gets slaughtered for his Instagram style grading, then I am not going to risk ever doing anything for anybody who has ever held a camera.

Shoot everything at 1080p. Don't shoot yourself in the foot with 4K. Although I do like shooting ceremonies at 4K for the post crop. 
Canon skin tones are the best. Even a used 70d would be better than Sony IMO. The C100 mk1 and 2 are the best cameras for weddings IMO. I've shot a few recently with C100 mk1 and my 1DC and it's super nice. Here's a teaser I did with 1DC/ C100 combo: 
 
 
You MUST MUST MUST remember that wedding films are CONSUMER PRODUCTS. DONT EVER FORGET THIS. THIS IS 6 years of experience and over 300 weddings shot of experience talking to you. These people aren't professional filmmakers. They aren't producers. They aren't film snobs. All they want is pretty shots of them on their big day. If you shot it all with a t2i and a 50mm 1.8 they would love it because it looks "cinematic". Don't get caught up with the gear when it comes to shooting weddings. That's the biggest waste of time and money. The couples simply don't give a shit. 
I hope you enjoy it. Weddings are a fantastic way to get lots of experience and become a ninja shooter 

Cool! freddiew started RocketJump Film School: https://www.youtube.com/user/RJFilmSchool , been around for maybe a year or so now.
I always enjoy the roundtables on The Hollywood Reporter that invite Directors and Cinematographers. Believe these are the most recent ones:
 
Means... another two or three months and then we have new ones! Love listening to people in the bizz talking about their craft.

Alas... it seems The Fellowship if the NX Hack is broken...   But long shall the memories of their deeds echo through these halls....
and thanks for the heads up I never heard that it can fry your sensor... Perhaps Ill reconsider its use....

120-140-160 I believe is best for hard disk drive space/camera heating (mine gets really warm)-sensor annihilation/file problems created. For casual use and time long projects I do not even bother.
Otto is Gandalf the Grey, Kino Seed is Frodo Baggins, and Vasile was that human Boromir(?) that his pride and recklessness made him vurnable to the Ring's power. He also dies at the end of the first movie! The pitty is, we need more allies from the elves and dwarfs, for Otto the White evolution, and the lonely Kino hobbit carry the ring further; so maybe there wont be 2 or 3.

Yep I know. But I had some (imo realistic) hopes, like implementation of cropped 4k, as a choice, for nx1 (ala nx500). 

I do not think there were "burned cameras", maybe 1, but we never learned if it was from the mod. If I'm remembering correctly.
In any case, you can try KinoSeed's just to try some added features (it is super easy to install), and later on, if you like the hack/mod, can decide between's Kino or Vasile's.

So far the best hack that I have used is the good old Vasile's NX1 & NX500 Pro Bitrate Adjustment v5.3 as its the quickest of them all and according to Vasile the safest.
The Kino Seed hack is feature rich however, its got a lot of features most of them are photo oriented but its the slowest one and its the only one still in development.
I do not use it because most of its features are pointless for me and its slow on startups, it takes time before it activates like a few seconds for me its not good enough as I need quick speed all the time.
Stability wise I cannot really tell the difference between either, people seem to have more luck than me getting high bitrate to work, I am stuck with 140mbps or 150mbps no matter what card I use even the fastest SD card in the world still wont let me do more than 160mbps until it tells me the card is too slow.
I think it has to do with the autofocus using processing power, if you turn the autofocus off however you can do pretty high bitrates. 
Uninstallation wise? Both are very easy, Vasile's hack is definitely harder to install and requires patience but the Kino Seed is quick and painless definitely the easiest to use out of any of them.
Early on in the development there were a few bricked cameras however Samsung fixed them for the users, Vasile and Kino put safety measurements into place after this and while I had freezes a very rare moment, nothing serious other than that. 
Quality wise there is a difference, but do not expect RAW video quality, grade wise I would also say there is a difference however again both cameras are pretty terrible at high ISO in video so keep it below 800 in 1080p and below 2000 ISO in 2160p and you should get pretty good results with the hack, the NX500 with the 1440p mode has no noise reduction, I had good results with that at 3200ISO.
I run test of 160mbps no autofocus or stabilisation to see how long the camera recorded, it recorded for 70+ minutes before the camera refuses to record more even with unlocked timer, not quite sure why but it recorded for 3 days straight in MJPEG and no overheating issue if you plug the camera into the wall.
Only complaint I have is Kino Seed hack being slow at startups, and Vasile hack being slightly silly to install at first try, other than that they are definitely worth it and will give more life into your camera. 

I would hope you're aware that the reasons why your video isn't good has almost nothing to do with the camera or the settings. 
Based on your OP, I'm not sure you're the type of person that understands that. 
Is that honest enough for you?
Basically, you have no shooting or editing chops. Luckily, learning how to have a foundation of shooting and editing skills is easy. 
Who the hell cares about skin tone, color, or slightly underexposed footage when there's no watchable content to begin with?
Would you rather hear a novice play "chopsticks" on a Stienway grand piano or hear Franz Liszt do something with a Casio?
First, don't give a damn about the nuances of what your camera can do. Put it on one setting and forget about it. You need to concentrate on composition and montage shooting. 
Heres the shortcut to learn how to do that:
Basically, find a video of the exact same subject matter that you like. 
Now, watch it shot by shot. 
Storyboard what you see on a bunch of paper.
Take these pieces of paper to your next shoot.
Get the shots you've drawn on those pages. Think about what the original shooter had to do to get the shots in the first place.  Where he had to be, why he got low, or high, or close to capture those shots.  Try to think like he did.  Emulate that.
Once you've captured all the shots on the paper, start over and shoot all the shots again.  
Once you've captured all the shots on the paper, start over and shoot all the shots yet again. 
Okay.
Now go into your editor. 
Lay down the example video you liked on your timeline.
Put your "copy" shots right above the shots from that video.
There you go.
After you do that (and probably fail at it) you might start to see what's actually required to craft a watchable video.
Learn.  Enjoy the process of shooting interesting frames and building an edit.
Once you know that, start worrying about the other stuff. 
Cameras are just a damn tool.  It's like a hammer. If you're not skilled enough to drive a nail, it doesn't matter a bit what kind of hammer  you're using.
 

XL1 with a DOF adaptor can look pretty unique these days...has a slight telecine feel:
 

The XL2 was my favorite camera in film school. So ergonomic and fun to use. I wish that Canon had stuck with this form factor. And the motion cadence was excellent. Despite the tiny chip, it looked much more filmic to me than the DSLRs we replaced it with.
One of my sophomore exercises:
 

So all I got to do is get a BlackMagic recorder/screen and Im in 4:2:2  SD VIDEO Heaven!?   Samsung is out the window!! Retro is in these days... This won video of the year...   
 

So all I got to do is get a BlackMagic recorder/screen and Im in 4:2:2  SD VIDEO Heaven!?   Samsung is out the window!! Retro is in these days... This won video of the year...   
 

So all I got to do is get a BlackMagic recorder/screen and Im in 4:2:2  SD VIDEO Heaven!?   Samsung is out the window!! Retro is in these days... This won video of the year...   
 

Works for me good job!
 

Thanks @PepperJay!
@Dr. Verbel', like I mentioned in my post, it was shot with a spherical lens. To be more precise: GH4 + Lens Turbo + Tokina 11-16 set to f2.8 (x0,72 = f2.0 &), shot in 4K (so 11mm x 2.2 crop x 0.72 lens turbo = 17mm FOV). I did not bother to add anamorphic lens flare to it in the post. Everybody can feel the difference between the shots so why fake it?
The camera was mounted to a glidecam, the operator was sitting in a trolley, therefore we eliminated the Y axis  but it was still a bit shaky, so I stabilised it in premiere, you can see some artifacts, but hey, like we care :D

Send the XL-1 to Liam.

Get that 24p "HD" (24F mode with the 2:3 pulldown) out of the SDI port to an external recorder for a project and honor this beauty ! The motion cadence looks good on this and I don't even need to talk about the colors. 3ccd was awesome and it's a 4:2:2 camera!  It's a great tool - I had a lots of fun project in school with that one, Dynamic range and low light is limited a bit that's all 
 
or even that 24p "SD" if you still have some tape around - "Records in 24 fps progressive mode like movie cameras, creating a true cinematic feel to the picture" according to Canon pdf 

Yesplease!

It's a wonderful camera! Easily my fav DV cam and the HDV version (XL-H1) is great as well and there is an adapter for EF glass but... the circa 7x crop is not so fun haha. I would love to use it again with a modern external recorder and wish a focal reducer was made for it xD 

I'm going to critic this by being very honest - Be aware, it might be an hard pill to swallow. I'm quite difficult to please when it come to video edit but... you've ask for it. 
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The first shot look very amateur or bad, try to cut it out. Or at least cut it in 2 different angles. After 10sec, I didn't even wanted to watch the video any further...
Second shot should be out of the edit, nothing is in focus and it goes everywhere / nowhere,
Third is ok but cut the first few blurry frames and then at the girl at 0:18 ...skip to 0:21sec. Try to stabilise the shot until 0:23 then cut again to the smile boy at 0:25 - Make those to shot match with the smile, it's going to be a smooth cut. Trim a bit the shaky end too of this. 
Stabilise the shot #4 or remove it 
#5 ... no need to go past 0:39, the action is done, the few last second are not getting anything positive for the story. 
#6 is ok but try to get it a bit more stable of a pan, try wrap stabiliser 
#7 follow the same as the shot numero 6 
#8 would be ok if you had the girl landing on the mat - now it's kind of pointless for the edit, teasing
#9 stabilize the pan a bit and cut around 0:52
#10 keep only the middle where it's stable 
#11 could be cut out of the edit - it's way to blue for now and clash with the rest
12 - 13 are good, they fit in 
#14 should be cut, pointless for the edit
The streching is ok but cut the last part or let the shot breath a bit with more frame in at the end
#16 - 17 are ok but could be trim a bit 
#18 should be cut off the edit ...or get the 17 out....or insert a different angle inbetween... it's kinda jumpcut 
19-20-21 is ok ... could be trim a bit maybe
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So i've survive until 1:33 so far....and I don't believe I need to keep going for 6min .... try to re-edit all of this in 2min maximum, then repost here. I will be happy to critic further after that...keep only your best shots for the final cut except if you need to include every single athletes in the edit, then you could think about sacrifice quality to please the "client" 
You're shots seems to get a bit better after that. But I far as I can see you don't have enough good material for a 6min edit. It certainly doesn't add up to your story to stretch it that long, it's just painful for the viewer...
Your color correct ...if any was even done look like a log profile. It's getting quite accepted by the general public to digest a log these days ..it's have a vintage/hipster feeling to it....I still think you should do something about it. Push saturation and contrast a bit, Overall you shots are underexpose too

It is definitely 10 M lenses and a couple of generations away (or a ML treatement away!) but I am glad they did make the first serious mirrorless camera. We need all the players producing good cameras and up the game
For most people dual af and color science (translate= nice pleasing pictures) is all they want. The price will go down really soon, and the M will be more attractive than the a600(a6300) in no time.
Also, the myriads of Canon dSLR owners would probably prefer a really capable mirrorless for casual use and/or backup camera, especially while the EF adapter is just under 99$, or given for free with a M5 in some markets. I would, if I was a Canon die hard fun, and there are a lot of those!
It is funny, that the first M was the one that made me really interested in mirrorless cameras for the very first time, I thought it would be amazing to have one of those as a B cam, the reality was far different though, and since then , I sticked with NX.