Jim Chang

Matching  different cylinders glass from different anamorphic scope is equivalent of a cylindrical Galilean telescope running backwards, finding a match with different systems that meet the afocal condition. Here are few prototypes  I put together and some sample shots. I hope you like, thanks!
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I saw nofilmschool recently has a post on varying aspect ratios in recently new films, I guess it's a way to be different, And it's better serve the story visually.
Taylor wants you to focus on her music, not image, that's what I can tell when I watched that video on my tiny iPhone 5 screen. :-) 
 

I haven’t, but I’m sure there are still funny rare variants floating around. I’ve been stalking eBay for almost a decade now, and I still occasionally see scopes that surprise me.
Theres actually a BIG brother to this scope (CinemaScope Attachment I and CinemaScope Attachment II), and I’ve combined front/rear from each with excellent results. Though the squeeze is reduced to only 1.33X, the angle of view compatibility is massive. The only  downsides are fixed (infinity) focus, no variable diopter large enough to cover so wide, and (obviously) weight. Other rear elements I’ve got can make it around a 1.5X squeeze which is more useful for most of my applications. 
Maximum compatible focal length of the anamorphic front block is inversely related to the squeeze factor resultant from various rear block pairings... this results in a constant maximum horizontal angle of view, regardless of the squeeze factor. The 1.33X combo may work with a 17mm, and the 1.5X with only a 20mm... but the view angle is the same in both after factoring in the horizontal gains of the anamorphic.
Thus, combining various front and rear anamorphic blocks may change the squeeze factor, and may increase taking lens compatibility, but the actual maximum angle of view will always be identical to that of the donor scope of the front anamorphic block. 
If I dare, I might some day combine some different rear groups with my Kowa 16-H to attempt a conversion to 1.5X squeeze, but even at 2X, it remains the widest projection scope out there. 
When I dug into these B&L lenses I was pretty disheartened to learn of the inevitable balsam separation and how difficult it is to successfully re cement anamorphic blocks. They produce some beautiful images, and if tuned correctly, can be very sharp. I wish some of the modern anamorphic adapter manufacturers would take note... there’s still no substitute for simple glass, simple optical formulas, and just scaling it as big as is needed to make that work even without fancy coatings. Sure it’s heavy, but the big glass just... works. 

Hello everyone, let me tell you the story of how I got the cheapest single focus solution. And how it compares to the Rectilux HCDNA (results a the end of the post)
Last month, I found this anamorphic adapter on ebay :

It was cheap, and looked like a weird anamorphic projection lens using prisms. So I bought it (Gear Acquisition Syndrome :D).
Then I took it apart to clean it, and noticed it consisted of two prisms (for the anamorphic part) and some kind of focussing solution in the front.

So I 3D printed an adapter for it (around 5GBP printed at a local shop) and tried it. And of course it confirmed to be a single focus solution !
So I had to test it ! Here are the results compared to the hardcore DNA :
Taking lens : Super Takumar MC 105mm f/2.8
Camera : Canon 50D
Anamorphic lens : Schneider Cinelux
Single Focus Solution : Rectilux HCDNA vs GB-Kalee Small Anamorphic (front part)
(Same grade applied to all shots)

Here is a picture of the setup :
 
Of course, the GB-Kalee is less convenient : 
- Minimum focus distance around 1.8m
- Smaller element diameter (would work better with smaller anamorphic)
- More difficult to focus (as my copy of this adapter is quite beaten up)
- Needs a mounting solution for both back and front as there is no filters. (But the HCDNA is similar here are the threads are not standard size)
So, What do you think ? 
I personally think this GB-Kalee needs a rehousing !

Here is a quick comparison between the anamorphic lenses I have.
The goal is to compares the flares and sharpness.
Hypergonar Hi-Fi 2
Dyaliscope Champion
Singer/Sankor 16D (uncoated)
Elmoscope 1
Isco Ultra-Star
Schneider Cinelux.
All shots with :
BMMCC
Mitakon Lens Turbo II
Helios 44-2
Focused to infinity, using a +1 close up diopter (Hama) except for the cinelux which used the Rectilux Hardcore DNA
(Sorry for the misaligned Cinelux shot, didn't see it until edit.)
Shot in Raw 3:1, edited and graded in Resolve. Applied the same color correction to all the shots.
I chose this lens, so that every anamorphic adapter would not show vignetting.
Equivalent focal length is 58 (Helios 44-2) * 0.72 (Lens Turbo) * 2.88 (BMMCC) = 120mm (FF)
The flares from the Hypergonar and Dyaliscope are just epic. 
I really like the subtle flares of the Elmo I
The flares of the ultrastar and cinelux are very muted, as expected.
The Singer (Sankor) 16D shot is just to show what happens if you want to uncoat your lens  
What do you think ?  

Mauri's fully assembled lens package with customized engraving. Check out Mauri's amazing work at: http://www.mauridgaliano.es/

Hey guys, I wanted to share this rehousing mod I made recently for my Iscorama 36.

It's a replacement for a front piece of old plastic housing, that is made of anodized aluminum and has cine gears, retaining 72mm front filter threads and adding just 50 grams of weight.
It took me quite some time to figure out this design and I'm pretty proud of it! It solves some real-world problems like close-focus, enabling you to focus down to 1.1m, but unlike DIY mode it has a hard stop at 1.1m and infinity, and looks way nicer then a grub screw drilled into a hole. 

I made a little video explaining what it is, since after I posted this on facebook people started asking what it does and what are the specs, and asking how to buy one. https://www.dropbox.com/s/wd1w620ddxnv2je/proxiscope.pdf?dl=0

I have decided to order a small batch of these, and already placed an order at one of the shops that does the first stage of the milling. I will make another video showing a closeup process of swapping the housings, so people can evaluate the effort and see if the price (which will be announced at the same time) is right for them. This is intended as a do-it-at-home kind of mod, but you can also take it to the nearest photo technician and they'd be able to do it for you, it's a simple process that takes 3-5 minutes to perform.
I also made a PDF with some specs, you can find it here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/wd1w620ddxnv2je/proxiscope.pdf?dl=0

If you're interested in getting one – shoot me a message and we'll figure it out, there's a little queue forming already

Mauri's fully assembled lens package with customized engraving. Check out Mauri's amazing work at: http://www.mauridgaliano.es/

Schneider ES Cinelux 2x (Custom single focus) | Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm F:1.8 | Sony a6300
Some shots with varyND. Early test, needed to learh how to achieve best result with this setup
 
 
DIY-body...
 
 
 

and few stills at Helios 44-2 F:2 and...
 

 
...Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm F:1.8


 

Mauri's fully assembled lens package with customized engraving. Check out Mauri's amazing work at: http://www.mauridgaliano.es/

I really like what your doing here, but I'm holding off on ordering. Truth is I've been trying to get hold of the folks over at coredna@transferconvert.co.uk but they never reply to my emails. Are they still in business?

Just finished the first customized engraving metal jacket. More customized jackets & jackets for Bolex 16/32 & Kowa C35 are coming.
 

Just finished the first customized engraving metal jacket. More customized jackets & jackets for Bolex 16/32 & Kowa C35 are coming.
 

Wow.  This looks very good to me.  Now, when I am able to purchase the Rectilux HardCoreDNA...

Here are some pictures of the Rapido Front Metal Jacket with CoreDNA front mounted. 
Front Metal Jackets for Bolex 16/32, and Kowa C35/1.5X are coming very soon. 

Here are some pictures of the Rapido Front Metal Jacket with CoreDNA front mounted. 
Front Metal Jackets for Bolex 16/32, and Kowa C35/1.5X are coming very soon. 

This is developed for the people who like to build a definite professional looking anamorphic lens with Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder.
Customized engraving service is available, so you can put focal length & T stop engraving on the lens,  like real cinema anamorphic lens does.
Features: 
Exchangeable connection to Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder Rail support bracket with ¼-20 screw mounting hole to use with SmallRig Quick Release Lens Support Build-in locking mechanism to prevent focus ring of the anamorphic lens from rotating Standard 82mm thread connection to Rapido V2 clamp  Customized engraving service (with additional cost)  Maintain minimum distance between variable diopters and anamorphic lens Supported anamorphic lens list: Kowa 8z/16H Kowa B&H  ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star (Red) ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star 50 mm (Golden)  Schneider Super Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC  Schneider ES Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC For more information, check over here: http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/rapido-front-metal-jacket
 

will update soon, I have a HardCoreNDA coming very soon. 

This is developed for the people who like to build a definite professional looking anamorphic lens with Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder.
Customized engraving service is available, so you can put focal length & T stop engraving on the lens,  like real cinema anamorphic lens does.
Features: 
Exchangeable connection to Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder Rail support bracket with ¼-20 screw mounting hole to use with SmallRig Quick Release Lens Support Build-in locking mechanism to prevent focus ring of the anamorphic lens from rotating Standard 82mm thread connection to Rapido V2 clamp  Customized engraving service (with additional cost)  Maintain minimum distance between variable diopters and anamorphic lens Supported anamorphic lens list: Kowa 8z/16H Kowa B&H  ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star (Red) ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star 50 mm (Golden)  Schneider Super Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC  Schneider ES Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC For more information, check over here: http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/rapido-front-metal-jacket
 

This is developed for the people who like to build a definite professional looking anamorphic lens with Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder.
Customized engraving service is available, so you can put focal length & T stop engraving on the lens,  like real cinema anamorphic lens does.
Features: 
Exchangeable connection to Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder Rail support bracket with ¼-20 screw mounting hole to use with SmallRig Quick Release Lens Support Build-in locking mechanism to prevent focus ring of the anamorphic lens from rotating Standard 82mm thread connection to Rapido V2 clamp  Customized engraving service (with additional cost)  Maintain minimum distance between variable diopters and anamorphic lens Supported anamorphic lens list: Kowa 8z/16H Kowa B&H  ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star (Red) ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star 50 mm (Golden)  Schneider Super Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC  Schneider ES Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC For more information, check over here: http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/rapido-front-metal-jacket
 

Hey Lens Geeks, 
I went onto Mr. Gale's website and saw that his DSO Trump lenses have been removed and replaced with these really cool looking APOGEE lenses. They come as set and cost a significant amount of cash.
I congratulate Rich on making these lenses so awesome and sought after, but I don't have the funds for that set, even though they look perfectly featured. 
I'm looking for any other type of well constructed, modified vintage type lenses that portray unique flare, artefact and bokeh in the images. I understand there's loads of olds stuff on eBay, but I'm really looking at something more polished and solid to work with. Maybe also some people who change the bokeh look in Helios lenses (but not shit). 
Also, I'm wondering if anybody knows of any accessories that also add an effect, such as any lens filters. 
 
This is what I know of so far: 
Lomography - they have some cool looking lens sets, like he Petzval, and have a Kickstarter on this portable Neptune set. 
MotionSix - they have tinted and anamorphic flare filament lenses on offer. I've used a 29mm from them with a fixed 3.5 oval aperture. Flares are very nice, but lens was difficult to focus and extremely soft. 
LensBaby - never used their products, so can't vouch on the quality and features. 
VidAtlantic - they do lens filters and anamorphic oval mods. Don't know what they're like. 
MeyerOptikGorlitz - they are making modern versions of their legendary soap bubble bokeh lenses, like the Trioplan. 
 
Anything to share / know of / blah blah / etc etc ??

After trying so many different lenses (both anamorphic and taking lenses), I believe this is the best out of what I own....... 
Voitglander Classic 35mm F1.4 MC
Bolex Moller 19/1,5x
Raynox Wide Angle Conversion Lens 0.66x
Zhiyun Crane Gimbal Version 2
Wide angle - Around 24mm View??
Image are sharp and it looks like that anything beyond 3ft are all in focus when I stop down to F4
Please let me know what you think and show me whats your setup!

Hi, Hank, 
Here is the independent encoder unit, which can be rail mounted on the side to record rotational information of the focus ring. I also provide two controller packages for order, package A & package B. package B is the one without the motor unit, and it's part 0009 at http://www.rapidotechnology.com/home
I can modify the controller parameter to work with your Berkey motor, I can also provide an additional motor cable connector, which you can wire it to your Berkeley motor. Thanks. 
Jim 
Rapido 
 
 
 

I just got a reply from Brian Berkey (very nice guy) - he said he does not have the exact model number for the full spec sheet to hand, but here are the important details for wiring. The Berkey motor comes with 4 bare wires for the user to solder to most common 4 pin connectors.
NEMA 14 
1A, 2.7V

Black A+
Green A-
Red B+
Blue B-
 

Also, you could get a Kowa C35 and Hard Core DNA for 2k vs the 3k + for the other. I do think it's nice that the Iscorama is a mechanically solid and produces a lovely image but I don't think it's worth an extra 1k or more. If I had one and I payed 3k for it I would vote for it as well. They are lovely.