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Bold

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  1. Like
    Bold got a reaction from nahua in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    Thank you for the kind words!  
    Another possible solution is to take a cast of the original front housing, and a cast of a female thread (on my case (58mm), then combine them into one mold.  Then cast those in something like brass or rigid polyurethane.  Then cut & combine them so one end is a perfect fit for the anamorphic and the other end is a perfect fit for the helicoid.  Brass would be ideal but polyurethane is more within my budget.  For under $100 I should be able to attempt several casts.
    Thanks for posting the pics of your B&H's.  I'm optimistic the dual clamp rings of the Antares finderscope bracket provide the stability you need.  I should be able to verify in a few days.  I'll also let you know what I find out from the 3D printer.
    Cheers,
    |. . | .|
  2. Like
    Bold reacted to nahua in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    BOLD, I really salute you on this project.  I've been sitting on mine for awhile.  It's the focus and the handling that's just killing me.  And it's harder now that there are other single focus options available.  I hope that you can make something that really works.  I'll definitely buy the adapter, especially if you can 3D print it.
    Here are pics of how I have mine mounted.  It's so hacked I don't know what to say.  It's definitely not stable, and I have a hard time with the follow focus too.  But the images are great as are the amazing flares!
     


  3. Like
    Bold got a reaction from nahua in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    Wish I had the caliper before I bought the m58 
    Oh well.  That's what I get for being too eager and not being patient & methodical enough.  I may get an m52 helicoid, although I don't know if the thread mount would fit around the 53.88mm end of the anamorphic.  Rich, can you verify?  I may go ahead and try to work with the m58, still debating
    I'll really want to find a permanent solution for attaching the helicoid to the anamorphic.  Although the anamorphic's 53.88mm thread seems proprietary so I don't know if there's anything I can kitbash in terms of adapter rings or pipe threads.  I don't know if 53.88mm equates to some kind of 54mm thread, or a 2 1/8in thread, or something else.  I'm going to swing by the 3D printing place tomorrow and chat with them to see if they have any thoughts on a solution, and to see what it would cost to print a semi-rubber lens holder to fit the m58.
    Absolutely!
    Again a great big thanks to Rich, QuickHitRecord, Tito, nahua, et al, for all the great info.  I wouldn't have made it this far, I hope the info I'm adding is proving useful for folks.   My goal is to have a finished version in September and post back with an organized, step-by-step review of the process. 
     
  4. Like
    Bold got a reaction from nahua in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    A quick follow-up pic:

  5. Like
    Bold got a reaction from nahua in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    One of the o-rings arrived today.  I spent a couple hours cutting & sanding it down to fit in the helicoid.  The real trick was getting the the glass to align (relatively) parallel with the anamorphic lens.  I'll probably seek a more accurate solution but it was enough to do some tests.  Here is the helicod and the anamorphic, the anamorphic has some white pipe thread tape around it to help secure the helicoid reverse threads.

    Helicoid attached, focus fully extended.

    Helicoid fully retracted.

    Helicoid with improvised (but extremely snug) rubber o-ring.

    And a 58mm lens cap for good measure.

    So I threw on my Helios 44 (not Helios 44-2) 58mm and did some quick & dirty video.  Here are a couple screenshots:

    Initial thoughts:
    Aspect ratio of 3.55:1 shows minor vignetting.  Crazy flare. I don't think I was quite able to hit infinity, but I think I can resolve that by adjusting distance between the elements by reseating the glass in the o-ring. I need to secure the helicoid to the anamorphic assembly, there was a small amount of play there when shifting focus. There was a lot of alignment shift going on.  The B&H will need to be locked down to a rig tightly to ensure the anamorphic remains aligned vertically. I still have a lot of work ahead to take this from work-in-progress to finished product, but so far the results are encouraging. Other miscellany:
    A rig may not be small enough to be considered run-and-gun, but would still respectably light & portable. Plenty of Series 7 adapters available to marry most lenses to the B&H, I even picked up a 72mm to Series 7 for my Angenieux 12-120mm
    Still need to test the 12-120mm on the B&H.  Not the ideal, as it will vignette, but it will do for the purposes of testing parfocal zooming. Once I come up with a more permanent configuration for everything, I'm going to affix a focus gear around the helicoid for follow focus. I'm going to wait until the permanent configuration is done before I start slapping wide angle attachments on it. Other reasons I chose the Raynox 0.66x over the Sony 0.7x wide angle is that it is not only smaller in size, but it also has a 72mm front filter thread. That's all I got for now.  More soon...
    Cheers,
    |. . | .|
  6. Like
    Bold got a reaction from nahua in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    For anyone with a B&H who needs measurements, I threw a digital caliper on mine:

  7. Like
    Bold reacted to richg101 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    Yo Bold, Tito, etc.  
     
    for better centralisation of the front optic I suggest using circular cross section rubber o rings.  it appears Bold had to use quite a thick piece of rubber on his.  maybe select a helicoid smaller than 58mm so its' closer to the diameter of the 45.95mm diameter of the element.  looking closer, mine is actually a m52 helicoid!, meaning i only needed a rubber o ring of 3mm thickness to go around the element.  so a 45mm internal diameter o-ring of 3mm thickness would have been the perfect fit for an m52 helicoid.  it appears bold requires a 45mmid x 6mm thickness, which might be hard to find hence why he needed to fettle down something to fit.
  8. Like
    Bold reacted to Tito Ferradans in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    This is one of the best threads here in a very long time.
    Today I was able to remove the projection lens from the anamorphic and rotate the focus ring. The screws were hidden by the original paint, it seems no one had ever opened this one yet.
    Bold, if I don't figure everything out from the posts here I'll message you about a few bits and pieces, ok?
    Thanks a lot to Rich as well, for the initial kick on the explanations and QuickHitRecord for testing it out in the first place!
  9. Like
    Bold got a reaction from Tito Ferradans in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    For anyone with a B&H who needs measurements, I threw a digital caliper on mine:

  10. Like
    Bold got a reaction from Gabriel Copoeru in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    For anyone with a B&H who needs measurements, I threw a digital caliper on mine:

  11. Like
    Bold reacted to ken in The Diopter Thread.   
    I found the cheapest way to get a 72mm +0.5 diopter filter lens, which is less than $20.
    Bought a Tamron Close Up Adapter for 28-200mm Lens and a 72mm uv filter, $0.99--the cheapest one.  Through out the UV filter's glass and replace with the Tamron glass, which is easy to take apart.  Their size fits perfectly. 
  12. Like
    Bold reacted to Gabriel Copoeru in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    I just use a DSLR baseplate with rails and lens support. Does the job well enough.
  13. Like
    Bold reacted to Gabriel Copoeru in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    For attaching the anamorphic to the taking lens, I recommend using the original redstan anamorphic clamp, more specifically the one in this picture: http://www.redstan.com/image/cache/data/_1050976-1000x1000.JPG
    I use this and it is a perfect snug fit for the B&H's silver ring with no play. If you decide to order this, make sure he understands that this is the one you want, as I've seen he has uploaded pictures of a different model for this item on the website. 
     
  14. Like
    Bold got a reaction from richg101 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    One of the o-rings arrived today.  I spent a couple hours cutting & sanding it down to fit in the helicoid.  The real trick was getting the the glass to align (relatively) parallel with the anamorphic lens.  I'll probably seek a more accurate solution but it was enough to do some tests.  Here is the helicod and the anamorphic, the anamorphic has some white pipe thread tape around it to help secure the helicoid reverse threads.

    Helicoid attached, focus fully extended.

    Helicoid fully retracted.

    Helicoid with improvised (but extremely snug) rubber o-ring.

    And a 58mm lens cap for good measure.

    So I threw on my Helios 44 (not Helios 44-2) 58mm and did some quick & dirty video.  Here are a couple screenshots:

    Initial thoughts:
    Aspect ratio of 3.55:1 shows minor vignetting.  Crazy flare. I don't think I was quite able to hit infinity, but I think I can resolve that by adjusting distance between the elements by reseating the glass in the o-ring. I need to secure the helicoid to the anamorphic assembly, there was a small amount of play there when shifting focus. There was a lot of alignment shift going on.  The B&H will need to be locked down to a rig tightly to ensure the anamorphic remains aligned vertically. I still have a lot of work ahead to take this from work-in-progress to finished product, but so far the results are encouraging. Other miscellany:
    A rig may not be small enough to be considered run-and-gun, but would still respectably light & portable. Plenty of Series 7 adapters available to marry most lenses to the B&H, I even picked up a 72mm to Series 7 for my Angenieux 12-120mm
    Still need to test the 12-120mm on the B&H.  Not the ideal, as it will vignette, but it will do for the purposes of testing parfocal zooming. Once I come up with a more permanent configuration for everything, I'm going to affix a focus gear around the helicoid for follow focus. I'm going to wait until the permanent configuration is done before I start slapping wide angle attachments on it. Other reasons I chose the Raynox 0.66x over the Sony 0.7x wide angle is that it is not only smaller in size, but it also has a 72mm front filter thread. That's all I got for now.  More soon...
    Cheers,
    |. . | .|
  15. Like
    Bold reacted to Brandyn Bullock in Anamorphic Newb Needs Advice   
    Thanks, Bold. That thread helped a little with what I was looking for. I might have to do more info hunting.
  16. Like
    Bold got a reaction from anti12 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    One of the o-rings arrived today.  I spent a couple hours cutting & sanding it down to fit in the helicoid.  The real trick was getting the the glass to align (relatively) parallel with the anamorphic lens.  I'll probably seek a more accurate solution but it was enough to do some tests.  Here is the helicod and the anamorphic, the anamorphic has some white pipe thread tape around it to help secure the helicoid reverse threads.

    Helicoid attached, focus fully extended.

    Helicoid fully retracted.

    Helicoid with improvised (but extremely snug) rubber o-ring.

    And a 58mm lens cap for good measure.

    So I threw on my Helios 44 (not Helios 44-2) 58mm and did some quick & dirty video.  Here are a couple screenshots:

    Initial thoughts:
    Aspect ratio of 3.55:1 shows minor vignetting.  Crazy flare. I don't think I was quite able to hit infinity, but I think I can resolve that by adjusting distance between the elements by reseating the glass in the o-ring. I need to secure the helicoid to the anamorphic assembly, there was a small amount of play there when shifting focus. There was a lot of alignment shift going on.  The B&H will need to be locked down to a rig tightly to ensure the anamorphic remains aligned vertically. I still have a lot of work ahead to take this from work-in-progress to finished product, but so far the results are encouraging. Other miscellany:
    A rig may not be small enough to be considered run-and-gun, but would still respectably light & portable. Plenty of Series 7 adapters available to marry most lenses to the B&H, I even picked up a 72mm to Series 7 for my Angenieux 12-120mm
    Still need to test the 12-120mm on the B&H.  Not the ideal, as it will vignette, but it will do for the purposes of testing parfocal zooming. Once I come up with a more permanent configuration for everything, I'm going to affix a focus gear around the helicoid for follow focus. I'm going to wait until the permanent configuration is done before I start slapping wide angle attachments on it. Other reasons I chose the Raynox 0.66x over the Sony 0.7x wide angle is that it is not only smaller in size, but it also has a 72mm front filter thread. That's all I got for now.  More soon...
    Cheers,
    |. . | .|
  17. Like
    Bold reacted to richg101 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    Hey man.
     
    I think some 2.5mm thick rubber o rings should do the trick.  grab a few 2.5mm and 3mm o rings.  cut one into three pieces and evenly space it around the element then gently push each piece in the gap.  
    for attaching the other section of the helicoid I just pvc taped it around the main body.  
     
  18. Like
    Bold got a reaction from Gabriel Copoeru in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    Rich, sorry to keep pestering you...did you use anything else from the front assembly?
    The part I outlined above sort of looks like the part from your photo below that I've highlighted.  Or is that the rubber o-ring you used:

    I'm trying to determine what I need for securing the element to the helicoid because there is a lot of open space.

    Also, by your pictures it looks like you used something like electrician's tape for securing the helicoid to the anamorphic section.  Is that correct?
  19. Like
    Bold got a reaction from richg101 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    Heating it up did the trick.
  20. Like
    Bold reacted to richg101 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    the retainer ring is unlikely to have been threadlocked.  its more that it will have been tightened a little too much.  be more vicious with the tapping of the outer rim.  the element is a singlet so there is no balsam to sheer - or be damaged by heat/acetone applied to the lock ring to break any possible threadlock down.  you will definitely need to put some serious force onto the ring for it to unscrew.  lock the lens opening tool so it cant close down and slip, and put some serious force onto it if required.  it'll come away with enough force,  wear some rubber gloves so you have some good grip on the housing and the tool.
     
     
     
     
  21. Like
    Bold reacted to richg101 in Seeking Info About the B&H Projection Lens   
    to remove the spherical section you need to unscrew the 2 screws near the seam between the writing on the anamorphic section and the ribbed part on the spherical section.  it will then unscrew off.
     
    for the focus mechanism, remove the two screws on either side of the focus part.  it should unscrew.  if not, you will need to feed a very small amount of lighter fluid into each of the holes where the screws were.  literally a grain of rice worth of a drip per hole.  any more and you;re risk it going into the cememnted anamorphic part.  zippo 'petrol' lighter fluid will break down the dried up lubricant pretty quickly.  apply it with the front facing down so the fluid doesnt travel towards the anamorphic section.  
     
    Once the front element housing is unscrewed (around 5-7 turns if i recall) you can then use a rubber handle of a screwdriver as a mallet to break the friction weld on the front element retainer ring.  A few sharp knocks on the front rim should break the bond, then a lens opening tool will do the rest.
     
     
  22. Like
    Bold reacted to Tito Ferradans in What about the Century WS13?   
    Bold, not sure if you're already happy with what you got, but my week's review is about this lens. Check it at
    http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7723

  23. Like
    Bold got a reaction from Julian in Anamorphic for new comers !   
    Hi Ricardo and welcome!  I am also a relative newcomer and have found a huge amount of info on this site, and people here are great at sharing their experiences.  You can take a look at the Anamorphic Lens-o-pedia, which is an aggregation of details about various adapters.  Also consider the Anamorphic Shooter's Guide. Tito Ferradans has put together some fantastic info here too.
    All have adapters have advantages and disadvantages.  Anamorphic lenses with more in the 'plus' column and less in the 'minus' column are usually more elusive & expensive.  A full frame camera like the NX1 will reduce your practical options, and determining the anamorphic size/weight that fits your style of shooting (narrative, documentary, etc), will help narrow your choices further.  Once you have reduced your list to a few possibilities, follow that up with research on each,  Obviously EOSHD is a great resource, and you can find other tidbits of info scattered around the web.  Make sure to watch lots of videos and test footage of your choices to see if the image quality will meet your needs.  If you go for a vintage/discontinued product, you'll need to have some patience and diligence to locate it in the condition & the price range you're looking for.
    For me personally, wanting to do narrative, I decided I wanted something that is single-focus and relatively lightweight.  I have a Century Precision Optics widescreen adapter which can be acquired relatively easily, but is not great at wide apertures and is soft at the edges.  However it is easy to swap out taking lenses, allows partial zoom-through, the taking lens does the focusing, and is light enough to carry around handheld if needed (though rails is always a good idea to reduce stress on camera & lens joints).  I also have a Bell & Howell projection lens, but it requires modification for greater ease of use.  I haven't done the mod yet, and there is always risk of damaging the anamorphic unit.  So like I said, every choice has pros and cons.
    I don't know if any choice is perfect, but most folks here seem to have found workarounds for limitations,  Sometimes that means changing the way you shoot, sometimes that means selling the gear and putting the money towards a different option, sometimes that means doing crazy and ingenious modifications.  But first: research, research, research, and a good anamorphic choice will emerge.  Hope this helps!
     
    Best
    |. . | .|
  24. Like
    Bold got a reaction from Tito Ferradans in Advice on eBay anamorphic lens listing (No advertising)   
    Well, if you had waited more than a couple days, I would have my paycheck, and I would have bought it out from under you 
    But there's no use in getting a 2nd B&H unit until I know I can do the mod on the 1st one.  As soon as I get that paycheck I'll be ordering a helicoid of eBay (add a couple weeks for shipment from China) and I should be ready to startmodding in mid August.  I'll definitely post back to the forum with the results!
  25. Like
    Bold reacted to Tito Ferradans in Advice on eBay anamorphic lens listing (No advertising)   
    damn, man! you forced my hand! I had an eye in that for a while, thinking if I would go deep into that mod project, and now I had to get it. hahaha. Well, I'm gonna be following your steps pretty close, please keep me updated on your findings, will you?
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