Bold

Andrew's guide is a great starting point too:
http://www.eoshd.com/anamorphic-guide/
 

Great work TIm!  I added a copy of the spreadsheet to the Lens-cylopedia!

Who says it's too wide?  It boils down to personal taste largely.  For me, the wider the better.
BUT there is the issue of viewing device.  If you're a youngin,' consuming all your vids on the intertubes through a mobile device, you are sacrificing a lot of screen real estate to those black bars.  Reminds me of the time I was stuck on a long trip in the back of a minivan and popped the widescreen of Sparticus into the VHS (it was an old minivan) and it was both amusing and sad, how small the image was.  I could barely make out the dimple in Kirk Douglas' chin...

Great work TIm!  I added a copy of the spreadsheet to the Lens-cylopedia!

Hi all,
Inspired by Tito and Bold and their anamorphic Lens-cyclopedia, I decided to try and make a list of low power diopters useful for anamorphic video. Using the info in this thread and searching on the web, I compiled a list which may be useful for anyone looking for suitable diopters.
I've attached the list as PDF. Feel free to comment and/or correct. The list may (hopefully) end up as an add-on to the online Lens-cyclopedia.
Diopters.pdf

Hello all,
Tito has kindly allowed me to do some streamlining of the Lens-yclopedia database:
I have templatized all the entries so key information is in the same location when you cycle through the pages. The template improves overall readability of the information. I've broken up Mounting Solutions into To Filter, To Taking Lens, and Lens Support I’ve changed the Index to a spreadsheet that provides key stats for easy ‘comparison shopping’ I’ve removed a couple lens entries that had no (or next to no) information. I've added a few bits of info on various lenses as I went through, particularly links to example footage. I’ve made significant updates to the B&H and B&L entries based on the info I gathered from EOSHD, as well as other locations. I'll keep adding to them as I embark on modding/using my lenses. Check out the updated Lens-yclopedia here. A great big huge thanks to Tito for allowing me to build on his great work.  And to all the folks who have responded to my info-seeking posts.  The information people have provided here has been invaluable for a newcomer like me.
I was surprised at how much info I was able to find on the B&L, I cited sources in the Lens-yclopedia entry where I could - I would love to see all entries given source/reference links. I know people’s time is limited, but even just a morsel of info here & there would really help re-invigorate the database and make it more robust.  A little crowd-sourcing can go a long way!
I am considering periodically starting ‘Seeking Info About X Lens” threads to build up the other lens entries in the Lens-cyclopedia.  If this is something you would like to see (or help me with), please chime in.  
If you want to send info my way (corrections, answers to red question marks, Lens-yclopedia functionality, etc), I will find time to update the database appropriately.
Cheers,
|. . | .|

I dig some history about those lenses: those type I lens are the B&L improvement of the French Hyperginar designs, but still has quite a lot aberrations, especially the mump and breathing problem, I wouldn't cut them in half and adjust the distance between front and rear glass, this not only changes the squeeze ratio, but also increases the chance of getting none-concentric alignment between front and rear glass. 
I will take out the glass completely, and make a new housing, a lighter one, and use external device for adjusting focus. 
Its a little bid heavy lifting...Probably only for the people who pursue unique looks out of this lens, people like me, :-)
I wil share more when I am done with this mod, :-) 

Finderscope rings + lens collar + 15mm rail baseplate = a total of $71 with shipping...an affordable solution for big projection lenses.  I just picked up a second B&L as a backup or possibly to do this mod, or maybe for two-camera coverage someday.  The seller has four more at a very reasonable price.  I am in no way affiliated with the seller, nor do I know their condition (seller claims they're good)...just floating it out there if anyone interested in dabbling with a B&L.
Cheers,
|. . | .|

My Orion clamps arrived today.  I was worried that they might be a little too small.  I removed the red B&L ring and slid one over and it fits snugly between the retaining ring and the focus ring.  So snugly in fact nylon screws may not even be necessary.

I noticed when I slid the red retaining ring back on & tightened it (until it locked with the focus ring), I was able to turn the focus well past the minimum 50ft distance mark. A couple posts above you can see the focus marks on both the black and silver models.  In the picture above I've screwed the focus so far down that it completely covers all the focus markings.  I'm curious to see what the resulting min. focus distance will be.
I wanted to attach the second Orion ring to the 77.35mm section (see measurements picture in previous post) but the nylon screws are about 1.5mm too short to get a solid purchase.  I can probably do a little sanding at the base of each screws to get the rest of the way, or try to find longer screws.  Alternately, I could attach the second ring to the 85.10mm section of the barrel: 

But I want the stabilization points to be farther apart along the body of the lens.  So I ordered a cheap lens collar:

Which should give the perfect fit.  Then I can fasten the Orion ring & the Canon collar to a 15mm baseplate, and it will be good to go.  Once my Xetron XA arrives I'll probably use the 2nd Orion ring (and pick up another Canon collar and 15mm baseplate) for that, so that each lens has its own dedicated support.
If you need a support solution a big honking anamorphic lens, you should consider the Orion clamps.  They'll fit anything from 105mm down to 80mm in diameter.  They are heavy duty and inexpensive.
Cheers,
|. . | .|

I had a chance to unpack my recently-acquired Bausch & Lomb and poke at it.  Here are my caliper measurements of diameters, accurate to within +/- 0.1mm


Here I've unscrewed the focus ring (note the the looooooooong barrel thread):


At the top you can see there's some space between the lip of the front element housing and the main housing (green arrow).  I'm wonder if loosening the screw (other green arrow) allows the front housing to be pushed down.  From the Anamorphic Lens-cyclopedia: The lens can be set to closer than the minimum focus of 50 feet by turning it past this setting and pushing the front element housing down to its maximum depth within the lens body. [source].
With luck this may allow focusing closer than 12ft, which is the lens' reported minimum focus distance.  It's also reported that it the B&L can use lenses as wide as 35mm on a micro 4/3 sensor without vignetting. Once I have all the support pieces assembled, I'm looking forward to testing the minimum focus & vignetting with my MIR 1B 37mm.
The B&L's weight is reported as approximately 8 pounds...by far the heaviest in the Lens-cyclopedia.  So for support I'm going fasten these finderscope rings to a DSLR mounting plate, then affix the B&L, and put it on rails (basically my variation of the Tecnoir support rig, which doesn't appear to be available anymore).
More info to come.
Cheers,
|. . | .|

As much as hard data like weight, dimensions, modifications etc would add value to this thread, specific caveats like optical imperfections are also useful. Could you link to some clips that illustrate the uneven glass? Do you mean anamorphic "mumps"?

Check out the listing for Sankor 16D in the Lens-cyclopedia for info.  If you search these forums for 'Sankor 16D' you will no doubt find a lot of useful info!
Redstan is an option, excellent quality but pricey,  Jim Chang just posted about his new Rapido Technology products, and I myself have been playing around with finderscope rings.  Normally used for telescopes, less precision, but sturdy and affordable if you dig around for a good deal.

Yep, they are heavy suckers.  Looks like you've got a custom (PVC?) rear housing on that one?
I'm definitely interested in re-housing the B&L (another reason I picked up a spare), though I'm not sure what the best approach is.  And beyond my bandwidth for the short term but I imagine one could cut the weight by half if the right materials were used.  If you have any thoughts/ideas on re-housing, please share!

thanks, Bold, the only thing is it's weight, I am trying to rehousing some of the bigger anamorphic projection lens now, just to cut its weight, btw, the glass is gorgeous in those bigger lens. I recently got a Gaumont males projection lens, super sharp image and big rear glass OD>100mm. I love it. Working on an adapter to get closer focus now. :-)
i guess I can shoot 70mm using that lens. Just like Quentin did in his "the heightful eight", :-)
 
btw, I actually got two of these lens, :-) ready to jump in for this mod. 

Also, for general information, for free, you can check my blog at www.tferradans.com/anamorphic

Check out the listing for Sankor 16D in the Lens-cyclopedia for info.  If you search these forums for 'Sankor 16D' you will no doubt find a lot of useful info!
Redstan is an option, excellent quality but pricey,  Jim Chang just posted about his new Rapido Technology products, and I myself have been playing around with finderscope rings.  Normally used for telescopes, less precision, but sturdy and affordable if you dig around for a good deal.

Who says it's too wide?  It boils down to personal taste largely.  For me, the wider the better.
BUT there is the issue of viewing device.  If you're a youngin,' consuming all your vids on the intertubes through a mobile device, you are sacrificing a lot of screen real estate to those black bars.  Reminds me of the time I was stuck on a long trip in the back of a minivan and popped the widescreen of Sparticus into the VHS (it was an old minivan) and it was both amusing and sad, how small the image was.  I could barely make out the dimple in Kirk Douglas' chin...

Hi, Bold, thanks, I spent quite $$$ on collecting those lenses, so I treasure them a lot...I am trying to get all the Iscorama lenses now...one is shipping from Germany now, it takes 4 weeks already, hope to get it sooner. :-)

I echo that sentiment, fantastic product!  And nice collection of anamorphics!

Nice work Jim.

More details on difference vs. Vid-Atlantic & Redstan
 
Difference to Vid-Atlantic: 
1: Better concentric alignment
2: No tightening mark on the anamorphic lens
3: Faster, quicker and more repeatable realignment, which means you can switch between your anamorphic lenses faster....and quicker....like a pro 
 
Difference to Redstan: 
1: No need to have different adapter for different anamorphic lens, just use the same base adapter (M55-M67 version or M67-M77 version), and find the customized step-down rings, and you are done. I found this very helpful if I want to quickly change different lenses during shots. 
2: Cheaper solution, One base adapter plus customized step-down rings is much affordable comparing to customized adapter for each anamorphic lens  
 
Difference to Both Redstan & Vid-Atlantic: 
1: Easy to followed instruction with illustrations on how to adapt, see this for example: 
http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/customized-step-up-down-rings/adapter-for-bolex-moller-lens/bolex-moller-anamorphot-16-32-1-5x
 
Hope now it clears. Thanks, 
 
Jim

This is an awesome adaption, love it. :-), I have a couple of big lens similar to this one, I will try the same method. :-)

I think its worth doing this going from 5 ft to 3 ft i am just below 3 ft my self. and its not a big complex modification bras are still there alignment is still there its just you cut the bras shorter and you gain more. I wanted to get tokina go get down to 2 to 3 ft. But i now have no really need for tokina now and save 600$

Here is a quick example shot to help explain how much minimum focus can be squeezed from just shortening the brass tabs.
Seems like I underestimated the normal minimum focus distance of regular Kowa B&H. Modification basically allows a foot closer to be obtained (not a massive amount but the visual jump is impressive). Modded min focus is 2 feet 8 inches which is around the close focus distance that a Tokina +0.4 will give you on an unmodified Kowa. But the cool thing is that if you add Tokina on the modified Kowa, you get exactly 2 feet minimum focus (from front optic). 

 

Sankor can be had for as little as $150 on ebay.  If you're just starting out you don't need a mint one really.  And any of the 2x adapters are all similar.  Yes they are heavy and will strain the lens mount a little, but it really won't make a difference.  The speedbooster makes for a great mount and the Nikon lenses are old style metal housing which is really strong.  If anything you'll have a hard time focusing with the weight on the lens.  But you have to dual focus anyway (one for the Nikon, other for the Sankor).
 
Most projector lenses are a minimum of 40mm m4/3 (85mm full frame).  You still might get a vignette on the corners.  50mm w/ speedbooster on the GH4 4K will come out to around 85mm FF equivalent so you'll be right there.  If anything shoot with the new version 2.0 firmware for the GH4.  Then you can use the new Photo 4K modes, and if you shoot 1:1 (2880x2880 square) then you can stretch and crop the image using the center of the lens.  This will reduce the vignette quite a bit and maybe you can shoot wider.  You can look up Luke Neumann on youtube and see his quick tutorial on how to use the version 2.0 4K photo modes.