exomonkeyman

Hello guys we're having some lovely hot weather here in the UK at the moment.

But because of this I recently got my camera out a small bag the bag size was roughly the same size as the camera not much breathing room. Sadly however it was left on and the body is very warm to the touch not warm like the camera was overheating but very warm.

The screen also has blue and red pixels on it however after taking a picture they didn't show up on the picture.

I put it in the fridge for a small while about 30 seconds to help cool it down. I did a pixel refresh and all the pixels seem to have disappeared done this before the results are always pleasing no more red and blue pixel.

However there seems to be like a grey pixel still left that I cannot remove it doesn't show up when I take a photo it doesn't show up on video but it shows up on the LCD and eye piece.

I'm wondering if there are any tests I should do to help see if there are any other damages or even if this is a damage to the sensor I'm also asking if anyone else has had the a7s II or a7rii and had theres get extremely hot and if you have had any problems.

And on a side note the camera never shut off saying it overheated.

Thanks for any help

Hey guys thanks for the responses really appreciate them!

Hey Guys!  This could be a quick and short answer to mainly cover one simple lighting question. A noob 101 question most likely.

I just watched Pain & Gain and I thought the colors were was just amazing. Intense orange & reddish skin. Really vibrant colors. Often using color contrast between blueish tones and greenish tones in the gym sequences to contrast against the skin.

So I checked some b-roll out to see if they used gels to light some scenes to aid the grade etc etc, To see no surprise.. little to no color in the scene other than I guess just daylight 5600K kino/florescent's/HMI's. Meaning that it seems like it could be all up to the colorist to actually add half of the movies actual color.

Shots from the movie on the LEFT and from the b-roll on the RIGHT

So do all movies do this? Light scenes with 5000k to 6000k daylight white bulbs/fluorescence's? (I'm guessing) to therefore get the most accurate lighting on skin so only capturing the skin's actual tones and not just pushing a warm color onto it almost lying it's warm when it's not?

I just have a fear that when I go out and shoot a short film and i use daylight bulbs to light some scenes I fear that when I get in post i'll just end up with some visually boring looking mess that became too technically correct and lost any creative style.

TLDR: Is lighting normal scenes with 5000k to 6000k daylight the most accurate way to lighting skin to then grade later?

23 minutes ago, richg101 said:

it's simply a artifact when the sensor is pushed too far.  Mine does this.  the effect only really shows where the dynamic range in the shot is beyond what it;s capable of handling - pulling the shadows down will remove this.  the difference between the black sky and a street lamp is almost an infinity number to stops difference.  a bounce board for your talent or a small led source on your camera will lift the talent and allow you to expose slightly less then the light sources wont cause this.  it's a bit like the vertical flares often seen on 1990's dv cameras when they flare.  

if you really wanna hide this artifact..  shoot anamorphic and the flares will hide it:)

 

PS.  S-Log isnlt the best profile for this type of scene.  you;re wasting a lot of the dynamic range that s-log provides.  try one of the cine profiles.  one of them (I think cine 4) has a better response curve for night scenes.

 

Epic reply Cant thank you enough!!

Hello guys.

So iv'e noticed this for a while now but finally decided to actually bring it up. I'm getting this dark streak effect only noticeable in dark areas with one hot light source. Seen on multiple different lenses and adapters and even noticeable when no adapters are in use. Mostly noticeable only in SLOG2 and video mode but can be soon with no picture profile and even in photo i think. And i can also recreate.

When graded it's never really noticeable but damn, worried that it might be a defected sensor, or just a well documented artifact known with this series of cameras along with the A7SII.

Not the best pics but look close and you will see it.

4K Crop Unedited

Same but pushed to show it more

4K Small crop

Same but pushed to show it more

If it looks like a bad problem what should i do next. Anymore tests i should do?

EDIT: After some small tests it seems to disappear when going into PP5/Cine4 and all other modes. Just not SLog2

Hey guys sorry for late reply. Really cool to hear your setups, rigs, gear you use. Makes my setup not always seem so overkill. Thanks for the replies guys +1

Hello the EOSHD.

A big portion of what i do is run and gun filmmaking (Behind the scenes/making of/FilmmakingMusicVideos) etc etc.

And this often means (for me) I set my camera up on the floor out of way and trying to just be ready to film in a matter of 1-2 mins. Jumping from location to location, in and out of cars quickly, Ideally not having to sit there for 15-25 mins dismantling rigs and rebuilding rigs.

1. ME + my A7RII + a Samyang VDSLR lens gives me tons of confidence that i get visually appealing shots, add a small rig on that with a top handle and shoulder mount i can get even better shots while only adding 2-3 mins to build times.
2. But.. i need better sound badly!. so i add a ZOOM H6 (could get a rode videomic GO) Things start getting much heavier your rig starts to become even more clunky, and expensive. Time setup goes up by 2 mins and you then need cable maintenance and battery maintenance.
3. So i add my brand new small hd 501.. things get even heavier and a lot more clunky.. and expensive, more battery maintenance and cable maintenance along with loosing the ability to jump in and out of cars because the rig is now very clunky and in the way and the monitor is very expensive.

I guess my biggest fear is (which has not happend thankfully) i'll end up in situation where were moving on from A to B and everybody's waiting for me because i'm still packing everything up because iv'e some how simply taken too much gear and gone overkill. I hate the idea of going over kill on taking too much gear. But i also thrive on wanting the best possible quality and balancing a fun easy to use efficient productive rig to a rig that actually becomes counter productive.

Anyone here been in the same spot? People love using small HD monitors but apart from making a film... i have found no benefit for the extra weight price tag$$

What rigs do you use? Post some pics love to hear your thoughts and take inspiration from your rigs!

P.S

Samuel

Hello there forum. I was on a shoot recently and i noticed that as soon as a external monitor was plugged into my camera i lost the built in LCD and EVF view. I heard that if you record 1080p that wont happen, not tried though. But that sucked massively for me as like the LCD and EVF.

-Is it possible i could run two monitors from a V mount Plate with dual HDMI outputs on an sony A7RII/A7SII

Small HD 501 for me and a DP7 for the focus puller then daisy chain monitor to monitor >(DP7 to another DP7)? 3 monitors overall? DP7 have HDMI in & outs

Thx

Sam

Hey there thanks will give this a try!

It's just testing in different environments such as interior and exterior trying to replicate similar skin tones and working with Slog footage to figure out how i'm going to be able to push it in post before i actually get into post.

But really appreciate the reply's guys thanks!

Hello guys, i'm trying to achieve hot warm skin tones like in Interstellar, transformers, the dark knight... all Hollywood movies really. similar to the orange and teal look.

How does one get warm orange results on skin consistently in exterior shots and interior shots. Is it a mix between lighting,makeup,post? Iv'e done tests and gotten really neat results indoors. But over here in the UK it's cold, dark, and gloomy so getting any color in skin is really hard at the moment. It just looks... white.

The attached file is also of a shot of a wardrobe test on interstellar. How is his skin tones so warm and orange when there is only one big cool white light? I'm guessing the Film Stock can only help you so much in achieving the warm skin look.

Any help would be super awesome, sorry in this is the wrong forum to ask.

P.S

Samuel

Wow thanks guys really appreciate this helped me out a bunch (:

Wow great post nice looking tripod

Really helpful stuff thanks guys (:

Hello Guys, don't know much about different tripods iv'e had my good old CULLMANN photography tripod for over 6+ years now (no idea what make or model it is.. it's just a well built tripod to me :P) it's head is also ample for me most of the times as it's pretty smooth just never designed for film-making in mind if you know what i mean.

But i'm looking for a good to great film-making tripod for around £100 however if there is a special fluid head tripod or tripod in general that people simply swear by then i'd like to hear about it even if it's £150+

A tripod that doesn't need tightening like the Oconnor 2575D to keep the camera still would be awesome but i'm pretty sure anything along those lines would still propbably be half the price of an oconnor... darn expensive.

Any big name tripods out there. Great price great quality most indie film-makers go for? I have looked but not got much from it, if there is a good cult of tripod lovers out there that can recommend some obvious ones.

Much appreciated.

7D Mark II always looked very impressive.

It's all a bit weird, i see no reason to stay with Sony for photography i simply dislike the way lightroom renders the colors and works with highlights with .ARW files i have to use a trial of capture one pro to get good color and ISO results and much better highlight control i kinda dislike the colors from sony in general but really i think i'm just bullshitting my self when i say that. Lenses too pricey and lack of adaptable lenses and again color and highlights especially ISO grain never looks as pleasing is me old Canon 60D.

But that video though, just amazing. I know for a fact i'm better of getting an A7Sii instead and also selling my 24-240mm FE lens and just using MF primes. The A7Sii will become just a video camera kinda how i'm already seeing the use for my A7Rii.

Thanks for all the replies btw guys (:

I did have the same idea would make sense cool idea.

Thanks you for the time to read and reply. I got a commlite adapter instead to save all that money and i had big intentions to use canon glass 100% of the time,  and iv'e tried a canon 70-200 f4 (bad af) 18-55 kit (bad af) 55-250 (bad af) 50mm f1.8 (No worky of course) Sigma 70-300mm (no worky) it got to a point were it just started feeling to unreliable.

Iv'e heard great and also bad things also about the Metabones adapter as well. I ended up kinda just leaving EF glass out of the picture as i would love accuracy throughout the entire focal length especially at 200mm. Again just feels off to have 399 points yet i use MF

Wow really interesting to see how many people use manual focus as there main option. Something i didn't mention is that i'm able to accurately manual focus my samyang 35mm t1.5 cine lens in nearly every scenario thanks to do the viewfinder and focus peaking and easy zoom i just don't like the idea of relying on myself to snap perfect focus all day long but really interesting to see this.

Also when it comes to action sports you must have fast AF unless your super pro and just love manual focus just thinking of action sports which i guess this camera wasn't designs for.

Hello there EOS forums.

The following read will not be for the faint of heart or for the light readers. This will be aiming at people who wouldn't mind taken some time to help with a professional opinion.

Trying to keep this short which as you can i failed miserably, iv'e been holding of on this post for quite a few weeks. 
I wanna say that i'm in love with my filmmaking/videography just a tad more than my photography but i still love to get into photography professionally before video in some sense, but anyway.

About a month ago i upgraded from my 6 year old trusty canon 60D to a Sony A7RII pretty big jump yes.
I was absolutely gobsmacked by it's video capabilities

• 120fps 720p (So dramatic and impacting)
• Slog 2 (Outstanding amounts of DR and grading leeway)
• Internal 4K 100m
• Inbuilt IS (Fantastic for non IS primes, literally you can hand hold them and get no micro jitters)
• S35 mode for much improved ISO noise.
• I can live of Samyang primes for video and get great t1.5 bokeh all day long with sharp results.
• It's got a great codec, focus peaking, zebras, and audio levels etc etc.

My video feels like it's gained massively from this and the video just dominates anything else DSLR related on the market (My opinion)

Sadly the same can not be said with the photography side of things. The past month it's been a struggle.

• My biggest problem is Sony lenses. They are just so expensive for what you get. Obviously you buy a £2000+ camera you probably should have £2000 to spend on lenses. That's my problem i just don't and i did not judge how expensive sony FE lenses actually are. 

Even if i had the money to spend on the lenses i don't think there that good for the money (Yes there sharp, yes there quick, yes they look small and tidy, yes there contrasty) 

But sigma art's are to yet they cost less Canon L lenses are to. So is Nikkor.

FYI i'm using Ebay prices and they vary a lot.

In rough calculation £2700 i spent on my A7RII with a Sony FE 24-240 a lens that costs £800+ but i got for £600 not a very good lens for that insane price it's not even zeiss. (Great AF, Great IS, massive light loss and stale images... simply put it gets the job done)
That same price could get me a Nikon d610 + 50mm f1.4G + 85mm f1.8G + 24-85mm + 80-200 f2.8 (very rough estimates)

I reall like the A7RII body.. just i see no future with spending £750(ebay price) on just one Sony FE 16-35mm ... just F4. I'm sure it's sharp but for me (personally) not enough to inherit that kind of money.
Sony just don't seem to have well priced lenses that work very nicely with the emount FE system. I doubt i will see anything as well.

And lastly iv'e had to move from lightroom to capture one pro 8 which i actually really like but the images simply look poor on lightroom (horrible looking noise and terrible colors and really bad highlight control)

TLDR:
I'm in love with the video image this camera can produce, 120fps, Slog2, 4K, Inbuit IS etc etc.
I love is so much that i'd never forgive my self if i let that kind of video go for canon dslr video or nikkon ):
But i feel like my photography has taken a massive hit by the abilitie to not buy well priced lenses... all them sigma,tamron,canon,nikkor lenses that i cant have ):

It almost feels clever on the buissness side of things to go for photography continue with that to my fullest effects and then maybe reinvest into the A7RII system or even the A7SII syetems.
Or viceversa do more video work and or photography just with what i got and actually invest into the nikon gear.
I'm also fresh out of canons cameras so i do miss that sexy mechanical shutter and big realable body of canons. So this is diffrent for me.. but the diffrence aside i cant live of these £550+ F4 lenses.

Lastly Today i'm hoping to go out and do some photography with my crazy little dogs to test the AF system on the A7RII with the 24-240 vs my 60D with a 70-200 f4 as iv'e had great great results from my 60D with the kit 55-250mm lense in the past.
That mini shoot will probably be the deciding factor weather i sell and go nikkor or back to canon and sacrifice that amazing video with better photos at the end of the day.

As said not a light read but i'm doubting there will be a reply but at least i got this written out.

Ok cool thanks

Hey guys i was a walking the streets 3 Days ago just with my Nifty Fifty (super lightweight setup) getting street shots on my new A7RII cheap lens i know but always gives fun results.

I always noticed on a APS-C crop if the subject is 2-3 meters away the lens tends to give this noticeable less bokeh skew effects on the edges of the frame (usually pretty nice)

Check the edges very slight skew effect on my canon 60D APS-C crop.

https://drscdn.500px.org/photo/120318977/m%3D900/9811ed9b048440f01678b9b88c0b1a27

https://drscdn.500px.org/photo/120319029/m%3D900/bfd701b161a767280b91104a5a228e8a

But when in full frame mode this happens.

Check this result out. Shot with the A7RII full frame mode (middle of the frame is always out of focus but the edges are not)

https://drscdn.500px.org/photo/128421767/m%3D900/725ac8f409ee8b171f8c6ea054b7756f

https://drscdn.500px.org/photo/128421819/m%3D900/0b02a044ded9511eb2e0afd8bf640797

https://drscdn.500px.org/photo/128421691/m%3D900/b3963345e2f63539d9bd50830d7d1930

Whats this called? and would you reckon the newer the 50mm f1.8 STM could fix this? It has much sharper edges but not sur eif that's the problem. I intend to get an expensive 50mm but i love the light weight feeling and focus of this lens. Guess the issue is that the glass isn't covering the full sensor.

Oh awesome, Might look into Nikon mounts

Seems strange to rate a lens because of it's body's megapixels, thought a lens comparison site would have had more equal tests but i guess things change as the years go by.

Thanks i kinda thought that the lower score on the charts meant that something was wrong with the lens on certain mounts you see. Much appreciated.

Hello There guys i have a simple but important question to ask.

Let's say i wanna buy a samyang 85mm t1.5, is it worth buying a E Mount base straight for my A7RII or an EF mount base than adapt that with the adapter.

Iv'e seen that some lenses have a lower scores because of there mount (nikon,sony,canon) is this because when a lens is adapted from EF to E or the other way around, it get's reduced sharpness because it simply works better on EF fit.

Curious if it's just best to keep the EF fit then adapt it to sony to guarantee the best optical performance? Or just buy an E mount glass to fit with no adapter?. Sound stupid i know but is this a known problem with 3rd party lenses? Sigma,Samyang,Tamron etc etc.

Source: DXOMARK comparason

Hey guys so i noticed some pretty narley looking light leaks/flares in my footage using canon glass with a cheaper £58 meta bones adapter. thought hay they looks cool and  guess it's a defect for buying a cheaper adapter but after looking it up it turns out people are having problems with even Official sony glass and it's a problem with mount it's self on the camera.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TOUGH-E-Mount-Fotodiox-Pro-Replacement/dp/B00STSBYXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1446501566&sr=1-1&keywords=The+TOUGH+E-Mount+LT+from+Fotodiox+Pro

Curious if one of these really would fix all the problems? With my FE 24-240mm glass i can also say it does wobble. but that lense dosn't seem to leak

Hello there. i can only imagine that this has been posted before, but do you reckon a firmware update could add Slog3 to the sony A7RII like it's video brother the A7SII?

Or is it a game of it could happen... but it would hurt the A7SII and it's unique one of a kind special "Slog3" feature too much. Technically that's not impossible right?