anti12

Focus travel is only 1 centimeter.

Regarding curvature:
I've found quite a bit of variability in curvature of macro images taken with the iscorama, ranging from none at all, to "extreme"... almost difficult to look at, depending upon which supplemental lens I use, whether it's mounted normally or reversed, and which primary lens the Isco is used with. I've recently scavenged two objectives from badly damaged (totally non-repairable) lenses, a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 ED AF, and a Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 ED AF. These objectives, both 77mm, have ED glass, thus I was eager to see how they worked as supplemental lenses on the Iscorama. Using a Nikkor-H 85mm f/1.8 as the primary, the Sigma was a "dog"... very curved field (sharp in the center), which became much flatter and sharp all over when a Nikon 4T close-up lens was first put on the Iscorama, then the Sigma. This optic was used normally... not reversed. When mounted reversed it's pretty bad... unusable. The Nikon 80-200mm objective was excellent used reversed on the Isco, with a slight bit of curvature across the image. Wnen used flipped the other way with the front toward the subject as when manufactured, the image is absolutely flat, edge to edge... probably the best in my inventory. I've rigged up a special test jig... a rail with a simple camera mount on one end and a sliding articulated "test subject carrier" that allows me to evaluate each add-on lens for field curvature, sharpness, chromatic aberration, etc, when used on the Iscorama, so any curvature (or lack of)  that I observe, is "real". Here's an image taken with the same lens combination as the bumblee bee posted near the beginning of this thread... Nikkor-H 85mm, Iscorama compression module, Soligor 90-230mm objective  reverse mounted on the Isco, and a Panagor 85-205mm objective reverse mounted on the Soligor. This combination has strong curvature, but the effect is somewhat "masked" by the weird bokeh produced by the iscorama. 

Hi Bootsie...
Thanks! Here are some quick photos of two of my shooting rigs, with an explanation for each pic.
The image above shows my set-up for shooting with a high magnification supplemental lens reverse mounted on the iscorama, using the Isco on my Nikkor-H 85mm f/1.8. The bracket is made from two strips of hardware store aluminum, drilled to allow mounting with a knob onto the tripod mount of the camera. The angle of the arms is adjustable to allow for different sized foil reflectors to be used at various close working distances. This is a special short-arm bracket for working very close to a subject when there's not much room to move around. The Iscorama has the back end (50mm Nikon mount section removed.  Attached at that point is a 52mm to 49mm step-down ring. Onto that are mounted three empty 52mm filter rings to allow the Isco to be mounted on any of my primary lenses having a 52mm filter thread. This ensures that the protruding back element of the Isco compression module doesn't come into contact with the primary lens glass. This three ring "spacer" then serves as a convenient place to attacht an old tripod mount (upside-down) from a junk telephoto lens, which is used as an anchor point for a bowl flash diffuser made from the dish found in a particular brand of frozen dinner. The plastic diffuser has a moveable black piece that allows for soft directional lighting. This diffuser mounts atop the lens using the silver knob on the repurposed tripod mount. The ring resting between the two lenses is a 72 to 52mm step-down ring. All my supplemental lenses have been set up with 52mm rings to mount on the Isco, which is fitted with the 72-52mm ring. This simplifies mounting any of my add-on lenses onto the Isco. Plus, the Iscorama's filter ring is plastic, and subject to wear and possible cross-threading when I'm working rushed. The metal step-down ring saves the Isco's threads, and results in faster lens swapping. The larger lens on the left is the front cell from a junk Vivitar 28-210mm zoom lens... set up for reverse mounting with a macro-reverse adapter ring, and is incredibly sharp, but has a curved field. With the Isco mounted on the 85mm, it gives a "field width" of about 29mm at a lens-to-subject of 6.5 cm. The smaller lens on the right is the large "common objective" from an American Optical "Cycloptic" stereo microscope, mounted in a cell I've constructed from six empty 52mm filter rings. This mounts on the Isco with the front of the objective toward the subject... the same way it's mounted on the microscope. It's apochromatic, has a huge clear aperture of about 32mm, and gives a field width of about 40mm with some vignetting, at a lens-to-subject distance of a bit over 10 cm. Using a 2x teleconverter doubles the magnification and halves the working distance on all my supplemental lenses..

Here's the rig assembled with the Vivitar 28-210mm element mounted on the Isco.The two foil reflectors clipped to the threaded rods are adjusted to direct additional flash lighting to the diffuser. Behind the supplemental lens you can see the knurled rubber ring used to "lock" the Isco at infinity. This was scavenged from a junk lens and was the right size to work onto the Isco. It still allows the lens to focus properly, but totally protects against accidentally altering the focus. The 85mm is fitted with a similar band.

Here's an oblique side view showing how the reflector support posts are rigged, plus how the diffuser is mounted on the old tripod mount. The reflectors can be mounted inside or outside the posts. The black clip provides more clearance for my right hand to operate the camera than clothes pins would, as used on the left reflector.

Here's a bracket I've rigged for night photography. It's particularly useful for shooting when the Isco is mounted on my old 200mm Micro-Nikkor. The cross-bar prevents the arms from shifting position and is a convenient place to mount a small positionable flashlight used for focusing. This "focus assist" light is pre-aimed to provide illumination at the point of focus. The black "flap" is my "direct flash" shield, which mounts like a lens cap onto the front of any of my supplemental lenses. It's positioned to block direct light from the camera pop-up flash, or small speedlight, from striking the subject, creating flat lighting and overexposure. All shooting is done in the fully manual mode, usually at f/16 to f/32 (200mm Micro-Nikkor). Flash lighting is redirected around the end of the lens by the reflectors, which can be adjusted to vary light intensity and shadow angle from either side. The shield is made from a Raynox UAC-2000 universal lens adapter sold with several Raynox close-up lenses, but available for purchase separately. The black flap material is cut from a polypropylene plastic notebook divider. The lens mounted on the Iscorama is the objective from a junk Soligor 450mm lens... extremely sharp, and has a great flat field. It gives a field width of 12.5 cm at a working distance of 31 cm.

Here's the night photography set-up all ready to go. 

This nursery web spider and nestful of hatchlings was taken in complete darkness with the rig shown in the previous photo, but with a bowl diffuser mounted on the lens instead of the light shield. The reflectors were positioned to direct additional light onto the subject. I have several bowl diffusers that can mount on a lens just like the direct flash shield, with the Raynox adapter.

This last photo shows a partial inventory of supplemental lenses for using on the Iscorama, most being front cells from junk lenses. Although I have add-on lenses by different manufactures that are from lenses of the same focal length, they produce different "bokeh" and have variability in flatness of field, image color bias, and contrast. 
If you have any questions, need additional info, or whatever... just ask. Thanks!

Hi Julian...
Thanks for the response. After a close family friend passed away years ago I arranged for the sale of his old Arriflex II-C camera, His Iscorama lens was given to me by his niece as a "thank you". I've used it for years, shooting slides, then shelved it when I "went digital". Several years ago I stumbled across the EOSHD website and it rekindled my interest in using it for digital work. It's only fairly recently that I've played around with it with the idea of adapting it for close-up shooting. I'm still not fully up to speed with it when working at close distances. The very shallow DOF at high magnifications is a problem, and working with mongrel supplementary lenses scavenged from junk lenses is "iffy" at times. There's a tremendous amount of variability in image quality when I mount add-on lenses on the Isco, depending upon which primary lens I'm using. Through quite a bit of testing I've created separate sets of supplementary lenses to work with the Isco when mounted on specific primary lenses. A few of my add-on lenses do vignette a bit, which is cropped away preserving the normal decompressed aspect ratio. I haven't run any focus / compression tests at anything closer than about three feet, but feel as you do, that if I leave the Isco at infinity there probably won't be a shift in the amount of "squeeze". 
Here are a few sample images, all taken using an old Nikkor-H 85mm f/1.8...  stopped down to f/16 or f/22, with a variety of supplemental lenses. The 85 and the Iscorama both have their focusing ring "locked" at infinity with wide rubber bands, focusing is achieved by moving the camera. Lighting is from either the pop-up flash, or a small speedlight bounced off foil covered cards or shot through a home-made bowl diffuser.

Forget-me-nots, 85mm Nikkor-H, Iscorama, objective from a junk Soligor 450mm reverse mounted on the Isco.
 

Orb weaver leg regeneration, Nikkor-H 85mm, Iscorama, Soligor 450mm objective. I really like the bokeh here (out of focus evergreen branches).
 

Web repair, 85mm with Iscorama, Soligor 450mm objective reversed on the Isco, with a Soligor 90-230mm zoom lens objective reversed on the 450mm.
 

Bee, Nikkor-H 85mm, Iscoama, with a Soligor 90-230mm objective reversed on the Isco, and a Panagor 85-205mm objective reversed on the Soligor.
 

Freshly moulted Funnel Weaver, Nikkor-H 85mm, Iscorama, with the objective from a Vivitar 28-210mm zoom lens reversed on the Isco. 
 

Tiny fly, Nikkor-H 85mm, Iscorama, and the objective from the Vivitar 28-210 reversed on the Isco.
 

Baby funnel weaver with a fruit fly, Nikkor-H 85mm, Iscorama, and a Raynox MSN-202 close up lens on the Isco. This add-on lens is mounted on an adapter ring that fits the Isco, not in the "snap-on" adapter supplied by Raynox.
The results I've been getting with the Iscorama are very encouraging. It's been great for general photography, but seems to work well up close too. Shooting anamorphic macro images is great... but there are a huge amount of "throw-aways"... more than with using a macro lens without the Iscorama. Shooting extreme close-ups with the Isco is probably "pushing the envelope" a bit, but I'm getting enough decent images to keep me at it. I've been asked why I'm "wasting my time" with the old isco, and been advised that shooting wide angle and cropping might be easier. Having done that years ago... there's no comparison. I just like the look and feel of the anamorphic images better. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

​No, it's the C60172 for PD150/VX200o Bayonet Mount Version with a glued on 58mm Thread for the taking Lens.
I guess it's the sharpness of the Pani Lens that can't be hurt by the Centurys softness.
Here is a Clip mostly shot with 2x Cinelux + FM and some 1,33x Century in the Mix:
For example the second and third shots are Century, also the first flare in the Basement @ 1:08, stairway flare @ 1:58 and 2:07-2:22
with less grading:
 
 
 

You can use those cheap parts to build your Cinelux support:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSLR-15mm-1-4-and-3-8-Thread-Tripod-Mount-Plate-Rail-Block-Rod-Clamp-5D2-5D3-/281667005669?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Mount-Ring-for-Canon-EF-100mm-f2-8-f-2-8Macro-/250827007518?
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Baseplate-Plate-Mount-For-Follow-Focus-15mm-Rods-Rail-Support-System-5D2-/171000567512?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOTGA-DP3000-Tripod-Mount-15mm-Rod-Support-Base-Plate-for-DSLR-Rig-Follow-Focus-/331020232705?
I used some of those in my experiments
 

The description states that Focus is achieved by pushing and pulling. Maybe the Zoom Lens works like the Diopter on the FM.

Weird.  Not a single word about Clarkson's behaviour or responsibility ? 
It's everyone else's fault according to you ?  Never mind him being drunk while at work and hitting a superior, right ? 

I only see 1 person doing any moral posturing here.  Defending alcohol abuse in the workplace and physical violence.

And if you're going to get upset with every person disagreeing with you, maybe you simply shouldn't allow comments.  That'll save you the trouble of responding.

I don't have a problem with your opinion.

But calling this a threat to democracy and free speech is ludicrous. 
A soccer player getting sacked can still find another team to play for.  A recording artist dropped by their label, can still sign somewhere else. 
If he's really that special and unique he'll find another sponsor and you'll continue to enjoy him.

You've now posted 3 times about the same thing.  And plenty of people have disagreed. 
Are you going to keep posting until we all agree ?  Or all leave ?

​I saved the article as a PDF. You can read it here:
boydhobbs.com-Legend of CE Woolman for Delta.pdf

Well I guess it's time to move on. Hard to argue against so much funded wisdom.
Seems like I have to dump my sharp single focus 2x Cinelux / FM combo.
Must be my fault that I can't produce soft, distorted images with lots of lovely CA like other recently hyped 2x double focusing anamorphics do.
So the 75,-- bucks I had to spend for the Cinelux were a complete waste.
 
Now I need to get one of those bargain Isco 36 plastic lenses. I heard they can’t do close focus below 2m without modification or diopters, but who on earth would need to get any closer? I sure hope they come with a decent user manual.
 
 

Using the Vizelex ND Throttle (Lens Adapter with build in variable ND) will change the character of the Lensflares.
First image plain Adapter (Nikon G to M43) Second image with Vizelex ND Throttle.
Both at f2,8. Vizelex @ minimum setting will take at least on stop, compensated here with shutter speed adjustment. 
 
 

Using the Vizelex ND Throttle (Lens Adapter with build in variable ND) will change the character of the Lensflares.
First image plain Adapter (Nikon G to M43) Second image with Vizelex ND Throttle.
Both at f2,8. Vizelex @ minimum setting will take at least on stop, compensated here with shutter speed adjustment. 
 
 

You guys are acting like a bunch of kids. It's really painful to watch.

​I was actually using the Glass from a 72mm Filter. (which is smaller than the Filter diameter itself)

Hello Cosimo, I'm not on Facebook but feel free to repost anything you consider useful.
 

A variation on the Flare inducing UV-Filter method established by Hans Punk.
To get the Filter as close as possible to the back of the Cinelux I placed just the Filter-Glass inside the Step-Up Ring which is coupling my Lens with the Focus Module.
68mm Filter-Glass fits perfectly inside a 52mm to 72mm Step-Up Ring and leaves enough play to screw it firmly to the FM.
 

A variation on the Flare inducing UV-Filter method established by Hans Punk.
To get the Filter as close as possible to the back of the Cinelux I placed just the Filter-Glass inside the Step-Up Ring which is coupling my Lens with the Focus Module.
68mm Filter-Glass fits perfectly inside a 52mm to 72mm Step-Up Ring and leaves enough play to screw it firmly to the FM.
 

Well I guess it's time to move on. Hard to argue against so much funded wisdom.
Seems like I have to dump my sharp single focus 2x Cinelux / FM combo.
Must be my fault that I can't produce soft, distorted images with lots of lovely CA like other recently hyped 2x double focusing anamorphics do.
So the 75,-- bucks I had to spend for the Cinelux were a complete waste.
 
Now I need to get one of those bargain Isco 36 plastic lenses. I heard they can’t do close focus below 2m without modification or diopters, but who on earth would need to get any closer? I sure hope they come with a decent user manual.
 
 

Well I guess it's time to move on. Hard to argue against so much funded wisdom.
Seems like I have to dump my sharp single focus 2x Cinelux / FM combo.
Must be my fault that I can't produce soft, distorted images with lots of lovely CA like other recently hyped 2x double focusing anamorphics do.
So the 75,-- bucks I had to spend for the Cinelux were a complete waste.
 
Now I need to get one of those bargain Isco 36 plastic lenses. I heard they can’t do close focus below 2m without modification or diopters, but who on earth would need to get any closer? I sure hope they come with a decent user manual.
 
 

​Thank you Andrew, and very sorry if we did waste your time.  I will take the blame for all this , yes you are right I should have followed you and inform you more on this. Can I please ask you  a personal favor, could you or any other moderator eliminate the whole FM lounge thread please?  I am tired of this arguing over stupid stuff. Please I will appreciate it if you do.
Thanks very much and do forgive me if I troubled you again with all this.
Best
Cosimo

Update:
uploaded trailer
 

Good news, anamorphic shop has included the FM collar 24 in the box when you get the FM, now you have the freedom to try different anamorphic lenses with your FM.
 

So I've received my RafCamera gear that I commissioned for my FM lens and I'm glad to report it fits perfectly.
http://rafcamera.com/en/accessories/ff-gears/gear-fm-lens-88-107-32mm
It is VERY tight fit to put on (which is good) - so if you buy one, be prepared to expect that.
 
More pictures of it setup on my 5DmkIII
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129041403@N06/sets/72157650417068585/

Hi guys....been away with work recently so not many posts from me recently.
After a discussion with richg101 I decided to test the theory that introducing more optical faces into the Cinelux would result in nicer contrast and flares.
So I mounted a 72mm cheap UV filter to the rear of the Cinelux and as you can see...it helps considerably by introducing internal reflection. It Should also help intensify other similar lenses (ultrastar etc) - although I don't have mine anymore to test.
Very useful for those who are disappointed by the lackluster flares often found with these MC optics.
 
 
 
 
 

Happy new Year!