kidzrevil

im staying AWAY from the Kelvin white balance and I am sticking to a grey card for custom white balance. If I am doing run & gun I will use the preset white balance and adjust them with the color shift. I had two different temperature light sources going and the kelvin white balance was jumping between a huge green tint and back to magenta it was weird. About the look you can either use diffusion filters like the black pro mist or raise your black levels in post

agreed. I've never came across a camera that was impossible to grade especially with all the options like filmconvert etc. people are just real fussy about cameras these days and there work ain't saying much lol....divas

I've been trying to get in contact with dog Schidt optics for the longest to purchase a lens and they have yet to get back to me smh. I have some old takumars and even some canon fd's that would be dope rehoused. Shoot I'll get their Helios one if he would respond lol I'm thinking of getting the 18-35 and the 50mm since I'm aiming to reduce the amount of lenses I own

I have a set of Canon FD L lenses in great condition. They were cheap as hell when I bought them but now on ebay prices have SKYROCKETTED ! I am considering selling my set for some Nikon primes like the 50mm f1.2 35mm f1.8 and 85mm f1.4. I currently have the 24mm f1.4 L , 50mm f 1.2 L, and 85mm f1.2 L along side the 35mm f2 SSC. Are the Nikon's better ? From what I am seeing on 500px they are not necessarily better they just render the image way differently ! Here are some shots I took with the Canon FD L series on the Sony a7s

this is why I try to shoot using diffusion filters on my camera. TOO much detail can be a hell of a thing for dslr's to compress. However I've never ran into this issue even without filtration. Let's hope this is just a transcoding issue

I agree with the tweaking part but with 8 bit footage I personally hate wrestling footage to get what looks good to my eye. You end up fixing one thing and breaking another...this is the primary reason I gave up my a7s for a Samsung NX1. Straight out the camera the colors are extremely good. Now I don't need LUT's to get something that doesn't look vomit green like Sony's do in cine4

same with the NX1 I think sometimes the challenge in getting things right in camera is the most rewarding part LOL ! I think these Samsungs are just one of these cameras that you dial the sharpness down and treat each picture profile as a type of film stock and just shoot. No tweaking just get it close to the end result as possible in camera

thank you ! I'll look into editready but I'm using Windows 10 so you know...options are limited lol ! I haven't shot charts or anything but it seems we arrived at the same conclusion LEAVE THE CONTRAST ALONE ! Good idea on the coloring workflow tutorial, once I test the hardware out some more I will. I don't wanna give people the wrong info

I recently picked up the Samsung NX1 but I'm not even gonna bother writing a review till we get some native support from Adobe Premiere. These transcoding apps are trash....some just less trash than others. I don't think anyone will see the true potential of the raw files especially during the grading process until we get that support. Anyway here are a couple of clips I have graded using the Gamma DR profile. I am starting to think we shouldn't touch the contrast slider, maybe the saturation but I would personally just stick with the default settings with sharpness all the way down. What I have noticed recently and I will post it in another topic is that even though gamma dr is flatter in the shadows and midtones the highlight roll off isn't too good it hard clips even more so than the standard gamma profile. This makes sense to me because all the picture profiles do in almost any camera is adjust the curve to prioritize shadow,mids and highlights in its own unique way but it's gonna clip at the same point. Knowing this I see that the standard picture profiles do not hard clip the same way, it appears to be a smoother roll off from the mids into the highlights. What I have been doing is using a black pro mist to reduce contrast slightly and give my footage a better roll off into the highlights. It also has the effect of muting colors especially with the warm black pro mist that I used here which actually absorbs colors in the blue channel although at the expense of maybe 1/3 of a stop of light transmission. Long story short I am going to try and play around with using the standard profile and just reducing sharpness and see if my diffusion filter gives me better roll off.

any of you guys know anything about the sigma art line or the zeiss milvus ? I'm looking into those while I search ebay for a good leica r prime

which ones ? My Samsung NX1 aint like my a7s. I need to get as much light to the sensor as possible so fast lenses are a must. My speed range for my current lens set is 1.2-2

im sure its good I just can't afford anything carrying the Leica brand ??

out of my league bro lol

thanks man ! I'll check out the Rokkors. I am after a vintage look but with enough resolution to at least resolve 4k. My Canon FD L lenses are great but they dont have the vintage flare of like a Jupiter 9 or the Helios bokeh

thank you for your response ! I will be in contact about the 1.33x lenses for use with my samsung nx1

thanks ! I kinda like this look...the artifacting appeals to me...however the community...hates it from what im reading lol

When are the SLR Magic Anamorphot primes coming out ? Has anyone tested the 1.33x versions ? These sound very promising more than anything I want the 35mm one !

thank you man ! Im really just looking for a well balanced camera & the more I learn about the craft I "outgrow" some of these bodies. Honestly you're not losing whether you get a gh4, a7s or nx1. What killed it for me with a7s was the color science and body size (I work handheld and it's too small). With the color science the greens are out of control and I got a lot of blue channel clipping that actually made me lose a client as the footage of her nightclub performance was totally unusable with the artifacting. It made no sense having a low light camera that couldn't shoot city scenes and clubs without running the huge risk of clipping color channels ! The nx1 so far is great because the colors are so good I can get damn close to the look in camera. I came to grips with the fact a long time ago that flat color profiles and LOG is a NO go for 8 bit cameras. The NX1 stills color modes (picture wizards) work admirably and I am still tweaking my look. The sensor works different than other dslr's cause once you expose for the highlights there is a ton of shadow detail hidden in what can look too black at first glance. The camera isn't without its flaws of course but so far this could be it for me especially when Adobe supports h.265 natively. Lengthy explanation I know but hope that answers your question ! hmm im gonna look into the contax zeiss primes ! Good info I appreciate it

i'll have to invest in some Sigma glass. A friend of mines just got that zoom and thats pretty much all he's shooting with. My dream is a Sigma lens set with vidatlantic's anamorphic aperture inserts <3

I think a lot of us are forgetting that color is subjective...and as hobbyist we shoot to capture beautiful imagery, as artists we shoot to capture beautiful imagery and as professionals we get paid to shoot beautiful imagery. Unless you have a career or general interest in charts and color swatches then you gotta understand each camera has its strengths and weaknesses. They are just tools, pick the one that works for you. But...im preaching to the choir :-D I've heard of people shooting externally and getting the same look. Its not the codec its the signal processing. The smearing we see is unlike noise reduction, thats just sounds like bad transcoding. Also its been proven since the GH2 that the less detail the camera has to compress its use of the bitrate becomes more efficient. I've shot with a bunch of cameras and this has always been the end result when shooting with a diffuser :-)

I don't think the NX1 sharpness is an issue but I DO prefer a softer look. I am thinking of using a tiffen black diffusion fx or something that doesn't flare like a pro mist to soften high frequency details for better compression minus the flare that can cause banding on the 8 bit codec another thing they can totally get rid of for me is the noise reduction on the NX1 ! Some of my shots are either being altered by my transcoding app or there is some type of noise reduction bringing a weird smoothening to my image. Overall I love the NX1's look and I will try to tame the sharpening with some good ol' diffusion filters

would love some but to own these would be way way wayyyy out of my budget LOL I own the 50mm and 85mm takumars but I've yet to try any m42 lens on this camera. Really and truly I am looking for a lens that can comfortably resolve detail up to 6k since the sensor size is 6.5k. If you know any lenses both vintage and modern that can do that would be amazing !

hmmm i'll give that a shot ! I did notice no matter my contrast setting I had to bump down saturation to a maximum of -2 to really capture all the colors without oversaturating the image. And I appreciate you checking out my work !!!

wow

is it worth investing in Samsung glass ? I'm a little worried about being locked into the system but I feel like this camera will perform best with a lens set optimized for the nx mount such as the one made by Samsung