Martin Matěj

Well you can use something like 82mm or 86mm normal circular variable ND and screw in rubber lens hood that fits the front. 

But on wide angle lenses you might have problem with vignetting.

Hello, 

I dropped my SmallHD focus 5 inch on the table and now there is part of screen that is broken.

The monitor still works but the touch function is very limited and I cannot press any icons and sometimes the monitor zooms in by itself, which is the most annoying.

Do you have any idea how much the screen repair could cost?

Thanks and wish you a good day.

Hello, I would like to ask which curve (dB-A, dB-B, dB-C or dB-Z) should I use to make a consistent measure of noises like elevator, high heel walking, Music band playing.

All the sounds will be happening behind old door and then behind new door.

I will be measuring through iphone app db meter pro.

Thanks

Cool but doesnt seem like it will help much.

i was thinking of just trying to use ext monitor on ronin s mounting plate where camera normally sits with new firmware that tracks your face. Attaching a smartphone on top facing you and let the monitor turn as you move the gimbal but stays locked to your face, so you can see it in every position. 
 

if they could miniaturize it like this item or make this item follow your face/eye then it would be pretty useful.

Before I used Smallhd focus 5 monitor on Ronin S which was mounted on magic arm and was holding on a clamp at the bottom front of the Ronin handle:
https://ebay.to/2OYO9Dx

Now I use Smallhd focus 7 monitor with this mounting to Ronin S:

https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-universal-wooden-side-handle-for-ronins-zhiyun-crane-series-handheld-gimbal-2222.html

with 

https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-magic-arm-with-double-ballheads-arri-locating-pins-and-1-4-screw-2115.html

And I think it's the best combo, the monitor feels so secure and you can change the position so easily. You could also mount some other things to the side handle.

The possition of the monitor is better on the last picture because the HDMI cable is not in the way. You can do the same with Smallhd focus 5 inch.

26 minutes ago, IronFilm said:

Or get a handheld mic to pass around the audience. Or have people queue up to ask the questions in front of a mic. 

Well I will have a mic to pass around audience. It was a smallrig side handle for ronin S where I mounted rode video micro with sennheiser G4 transmitter and it worked. Now I will have 2 sets of Rode wireless go so I will use that instead and G4 on moderator.

Thanks for the replies. I think I will have to search more about what really is that automix and faders. But when I tried to find more about automix I was unable to find much info. What I understood was that it just fades the person who is not speaking so you don't hear as much ambiance noise and when the person starts speaking again the fade should dissapear. 

Thanks for the answers.

So what would you recommned when I would like to livestream the speaker, moderator and mic from audience and want it to sound decent and I am the only guy to record video and sound.

I would also love if it would save me time in post and I wouldn't have to change the volume of the sound tracks manually in post. Would the automix help me or not?

Should I also use auto gain or just set appropriate levels for the speaker and moderator and be ready to change the gain manually for questions from audience because their volume will probably differ a lot.

Hello, I would like to ask how do you think I should set my Rode Wireless Go when I am recording the signal from it on Zoom H1N.

There are two gain settings on RWG and 10 marks of gain on ZOOM H1N.

Right now I used first step of gain on RWG so it was in half and something like 6 or 7 on Zoom H1N.

Or you think it really doesnt matter because the quality of both preamps is similar.


Also one more question do you think I could have like 3 sets of RWG going into Zoom F4 and with it's automix feature just let it change the gain automatically for each speaker with RWG and then just send it to GH5 set to -12 dB gain for minimum noise and fast turnaround.

Thanks a lot

I think this is also viable alternative to APUTURE 300D mark I

Basically same light output in daylight color as 300D I but with ability to adjust color temperature while still having more brightness than 120D.

Hey guys, 

I am doing a multicam shoot tomorrow and I would like to ask what would be the best picture profile and settings on GH2 to match my G80 with cine D with:

contrast at 0

sharpness at -3

noise reduction at -5

and saturation at -3

or are there any settings on G80 that I should change to maximize dynamic range and "filmicness"

Thanks a lot

Hey,

I want to buy Sigma 18-35 1.8 for my Pana G80 and wanted to ask what would be the cheapest UV filter to protect that lens without negatively impacting the image?

And do you know of any other affordable camera other than GH5, that can output 4:3 through HDMI so I can shoot photos in 4:3 on my smallHD focus monitor. Can G9, XT3, Z6, A7III or others do it?

Thanks a lot

Hello,

i wanted to ask if there is difference between setting gain on my camera to -12 db and then boosting the gain while editing in fcpx if the sound is not loud enough or just trying to set the gain in camera so the peaks are somewhere between -12 db and -6 db? 

and I also wanted to ask what would be the cheapest recorder with automix feature? Is the zoom f8n the “cheapest” way?

thanks

19 hours ago, Snowbro said:

They work very well, sometimes you will need to calibrate them a tad. Just know that sigma lenses are loud when they AF. 

You mean that even the 18-35 1.8 is loud when auto focusing?

Thanks

I am using G80 for like half a year or more for everything including paid work:

https://vimeo.com/martinmatej

And I still love it!

I am handheld kind of guy and the ibis works super well.

I also use it with viltrox EF-M2 adapter speedbooster.

I had a problem with stabilization on already stabilized lens when the switch on the lens disables even the ibis in G80 or when I left the stabilization switch on canon 70 - 300 4 - 5.6 on the camera freezes after few seconds of filming and then I have to detach the adapter and restart the camera.

But when I use it with sigma 17 - 50 2.8 Ef mount version with no stabilization on the lens just stabilization in G80 is on it works perfect.

I also had some problems with that adapter and vintage glass without electric contacts so be aware. 

But all in all the G80 was and still is a great camera that I bought second hand for like 500 USD.

If you want 4K 60p you could go for second hand panasonic G9 which costs somewhere between G80 and GH5.

Well the link to reflector holder at the beginning of the topic allows you to put a reflector above someone's head or high above. That's what I really like about it, to use it to mount microphones and reflectors just outside the frame. And I guess I will mainly use it to soften the harsh sunlight on human face or something else if needed.

That could be a good idea. But I am not a big fan of drilling and gluing things.

I realized that I could just buy the reflector holder one and put a crab clamp with magic arm or something like that at the end of it to hold a microphone if it's needed.

But thank you anyway

4 hours ago, thephoenix said:

well 1000 bucks is a bit expensive but it is parts that are made to last and that you always use, they don't get much outdated with time like a camera.

i have heliopan and it is quite good but i need a larger one and as i have to travel in the us starting tomorrow will have to buy it over there 'heliopan was out of stock here) and heliopan is not easy to find in the us and quite expensive.

he is objective that is the question as they were sent to him by the company

 

 

I would trust Curtis Judd, his other reviews and opinions seem very unbiased.

I have the simmod 82mm and didnt notice any color shift.

the leather pouch is nice.

The turning mechanism helps to position the filter so you have the small stick in the right spot and I guess it could be used to control the polarisation effect.

give it a try but be carefull if you position the filter to max settings it shows x pattern while on position 10 it is fine - does anyone knows if slr magic I or II works the same way?

thanks

I wanted to ask if there is device that combines Telescopic boom arm for lightstand with 1/4 screw at the end but at the same time can hold a reflector like on the second link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Photography-Studio-Light-Stand-Telescopic-Boom-Arm-w-Sandbag-Grip-For-75-135cm/222576573875?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dee7e2c5491a34131a3bf6f898e9be3ea%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D162343946373%26itm%3D222576573875&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-Studio-Photo-Holder-Bracket-Swivel-Head-Reflector-Disc-Arm-Support-26-69/162343946373?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

  thanks

Hello,

I am working on video right now where I would like to have a wide shot of a room and then I would like to make some animated furniture appear in the room.

I work in final cut pro x so do you think this would work or do you know anything else that does the job fine for less money: 

https://www.motionvfx.com/mplugs-106.html

I am also working on a drone shot where call out titles appear above different farm buildings when I fly above them and stay above the buidings so I think it need to be tracked.

I can't decide between:

https://www.motionvfx.com/mplugs-135.html

or something like this:

https://store.pixelfilmstudios.com/product/prodicatorfundamentals/

What do you think will serve me better?

I also wanted to ask if there is device that combines Telescopic boom arm for lightstand with 1/4 screw at the end but at the same time can hold a reflector like on the second link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Photography-Studio-Light-Stand-Telescopic-Boom-Arm-w-Sandbag-Grip-For-75-135cm/222576573875?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dee7e2c5491a34131a3bf6f898e9be3ea%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D162343946373%26itm%3D222576573875&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-Studio-Photo-Holder-Bracket-Swivel-Head-Reflector-Disc-Arm-Support-26-69/162343946373?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks for all the answers. I know  it's not usual topics here but I think anything can be useful.

Hey I got some older sigma EF lenses like 17-50 2.8, 24 2.8 and 14 2.8

Would the pocket 4K work with them on this cheap gimbal?

https://store.feiyu-tech.com/products/feiyutech-a1000-for-dslr-mirrorless-camera-1-kilogram-payload-damping-sliding-arm-45-degree-elevation

And could I control focus and f stop remotely with this aputure dec adapter?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-Wireless-Focusing-Adapter-Cameras/dp/B00X14F5CA

Or with the more expensive Dec vari ND control even ND remotely?

https://www.aputure.com/products/dec-vari-nd-1

Has anyone tried this combo?

If I have regular vari ND can I touch it to adjust it while the camera is still on the running gimbal? I don't need to be adjusting all the time. Just before the take.

Thanks

I mean when I shoot video 16:9 is fine.

But when I want to shoot photos the 16:9 stays and I cannot toggle on 4:3 or 3:2 in camera so I have to take photos in 16:9 and then reset the crop on the RAW originals in lightroom.

So are you sure that with GH5 you can shoot 4:3 photos directly and view them in correct 4:3 ration on smallhd focus?

Thanks guys

Nobody knows?

Hey. Recently I bought the smallhd focus and it´s so great to finally clearly see what I am shooting and where I am focusing even in sunny conditions.

BUT when I also want to use it for photography due to using manual focus lenses and wanting to be sure about the focus I cannot switch the g80 to shoot in 4:3 or 3:2 ration. Only 16:9 output through hdmi it seems. 

My workaround is to just shoot those photos in 16:9 and the reset the crop on the raw photos in lightroom and I am back to 4:3 but it would be nice to see it 4:3 by default.

Do you know if it is any different for similar cameras like gh5, x-h1, x-t3, sonys etc.

thanks a lot

Thanks for the answers guys. I know that sigma 18-35 would be a good candidate but I wanted to avoid losing the long end of my lens, but I could use external tele conversion to get some reach. Don't worry with the tests Anaconda_ I will check youtube and vimeo.